Public transport and the Aragones Route: Need advice

[CatPhillips]

I'm walking the Aragones in April, probably starting in Somport. I'm trying to get an idea of the public transport I'll need. BTW, thanks to everyone for all the info in previous posts. I've learned a lot.

Here's what I think I'll do. Please feel free to tell me where I've got it wrong, or how I could do it better.

I'm flying into Madrid (from the States) and then taking a train that morning to Zaragoza where I'll spend the night. The next morning I'll take a train to Jaca and bus to Somport from there. I'll either spend the night in Somport or start walking that day to Confrac Pueblo. Next day walk to Jaca.

From Jaca, I'd like to go to the Monastery but the bus isn't running from Jaca until May (true?), so that means I have to take a taxi. I could take a taxi from Jaca to the monastery and then walk to Santa Cilia OR walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and take a taxi to monastery from there. Then walk back to Santa Cilia or all the way to Arres. OR I guess I could walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and spend the night. Then walk to the monastery and back the next day.

What is the walk from the monastery to Santa Cilia like? Or the walk from Jaca to Santa Cilia?

The rest of the route is straight forward. I will continue on a bit on the Frances, but don't have time to go all the way to Santiago this time. (I've walked into Santigo quite a few times, lost count how many. I've done all the most popular routes, so I have experience.)

To complicate things a tiny bit more, I could start a few stages farther into France, but that would mean more time on buses or trains before I start, yes? I have three weeks from landing in Spain until I leave again from Madrid.

Thoughts?

Cat

 

[andycohn]

I'm walking the Aragones in April, probably starting in Somport. I'm trying to get an idea of the public transport I'll need. BTW, thanks to everyone for all the info in previous posts. I've learned a lot.

Here's what I think I'll do. Please feel free to tell me where I've got it wrong, or how I could do it better.

I'm flying into Madrid (from the States) and then taking a train that morning to Zaragoza where I'll spend the night. The next morning I'll take a train to Jaca and bus to Somport from there. I'll either spend the night in Somport or start walking that day to Confrac Pueblo. Next day walk to Jaca.

From Jaca, I'd like to go to the Monastery but the bus isn't running from Jaca until May (true?), so that means I have to take a taxi. I could take a taxi from Jaca to the monastery and then walk to Santa Cilia OR walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and take a taxi to monastery from there. Then walk back to Santa Cilia or all the way to Arres. OR I guess I could walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and spend the night. Then walk to the monastery and back the next day.

What is the walk from the monastery to Santa Cilia like? Or the walk from Jaca to Santa Cilia?

The rest of the route is straight forward. I will continue on a bit on the Frances, but don't have time to go all the way to Santiago this time. (I've walked into Santigo quite a few times, lost count how many. I've done all the most popular routes, so I have experience.)

To complicate things a tiny bit more, I could start a few stages farther into France, but that would mean more time on buses or trains before I start, yes? I have three weeks from landing in Spain until I leave again from Madrid.

Thoughts?

Cat

You're certainly on top of things! If (and only you can decide that "if"), you want to start on the French side of the pass, you could take the bus from Canfranc Estacion over the Somport pass to Urdos, stay at the gite there, and climb from the French side up to the pass rather than starting there. IMHO, it's a more spectacular walk than the climb to the pass from SJPDP, with the snow-capped mountains looming up above you. You're undoubtedly following the other posts that have been running on this, and about the road closures before Urdos, so I won't link them, but if you want to take the bus from Canfranc Estacion to Urdos, it looks like there's 4 buses per day, and it's only a 20 minute ride, so maybe it could fit in easily to your itinerary. Here's the schedule: https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:US:37ca76c1-9263-4722-a6cb-96f82414b7c8

With respect to the monastery, we took a taxi there from Jaca (the bus wasn't running when we were there), then walked down to Santa Cruz and spent the night there in a casa rurale. It's only a few miles down from the monastery, but the walk is very rocky and steep, and my septuagenarian knees were not happy. From Santa Cruz to Santa Cilia the trail is a lot better, and we continued on past Santa Cilia to Arres. Thus, can't comment on the trail between Jaca and Santa Cilia.

It's a great route, and if we walk the Frances again (which we may do in the fall), we'll certainly approach the Frances Por Aragon instead of Por Roncesvalles

 

[dick bird]

I would check out the bus to San Juan with the tourist office. The bus we took was a shuttle for people who work up there so I would expect it to be running pretty well all the time. But I don´t think the taxi will be prohibitively expensive.

You could walk from Jaca, (there is a route but I can´t vouch for the waymarking) but it would be a long haul as you then have to get down to Santa Cruz or Santa Cilia after an invigorating day spent walking around the site. Apparently the road is an option especially as there won´t be much traffic in the afternoon.

We´ll be very interested to hear how you get on as we are approaching San Juan from the Catalan just after you so we´d love to hear about the walk down.

The Aragonés is a lovely walk, I think you´ll enjoy it. Don´t miss the Lumbier Gorge. It is a shame you don´t have time to walk a bit of the Chemin D´Arles as that section up the Val D´Aspe is lovely too. But your plans sound good. Buen camino..

 

[J Willhaus]

We walked the "camino" route down from the monasteries. DONT DO IT!!! Very steep and at one point you are hanging onto a cable attached to a cliff to get down.

Follow the road (slightly longer, but not as steep, rocky, or treacherous) to get to Santa Cruz and past to Santa Celia. We stayed in Santa Cruz at some wonderful luxury place, but last summer pilgrims at Arres where we were volunteering told us they stayed at a monastery there or you can walk on to Santa Celia.

There was no bus the year we walked so we went to the Jaca Tourist office near the cathedral and they called us a cab. Great visit, just a terrible walk down that left us two old pilgrims nearly disabled.

 

[trecile]

We walked the "camino" route down from the monasteries. DONT DO IT!!! Very steep and at one point you are hanging onto a cable attached to a cliff to get down.

 

[trecile]

You're certainly on top of things! If (and only you can decide that "if"), you want to start on the French side of the pass, you could take the bus from Canfranc Estacion over the Somport pass to Urdos, stay at the gite there, and climb from the French side up to the pass rather than starting there. IMHO, it's a more spectacular walk than the climb to the pass from SJPDP, with the snow-capped mountains looming up above you. You're undoubtedly following the other posts that have been running on this, and about the road closures before Urdos,

I have a question. My current plan is to start at Oloron-Sainte-Marie. Will I be missing anything if I decide to start from Urdos instead?

 

[oursonpolaire]

I can comment on the trail between Jaca and Santa Cilia-- it follows alongside the carretera, weaving in and out; it's not too bad.

What is really difficult is the trail between Jaca and the monastery; the trail between the monastery and Santa Cruz is also pretty unspeakable and involves something bordering on a technical climb--- not suitable for the vertiginous.

My recommendation is to bus or taxi to the monastery, then walk down the road to Santa Cruz, where there are private accommodations (I liked the Hosteleria Santa Cruz) but no albergue. The path to Santa Cilia through Binacua is very pleasant and gives some great perspectives.

The monastery is justly a World Heritage Site, and is one of my top ten ever ever ever travel experiences. It is well worth the trip!

 

[andycohn]

I have a question. My current plan is to start at Oloron-Sainte-Marie. Will I be missing anything if I decide to start from Urdos instead?

Oh dear, Terri! I have such a problem answering a question like this. Of course, you'll be missing something. (But on the other end, you'll gain whatever you do instead).

That said, I love walking in France. Before doing the Arles from OSM, I had walked the whole of the Le Puy route and the Robert Louis Stevenson trail. The food, the reception at the gites, the countryside is way different from Spain, and in many ways more attractive. IMHO, of course. If you walk from OSM, you'll have a lovely build up to the pass. In spring, the countryside is spectacularly green, and it's wonderfully rural. The streams are gushing with water, and it's an amazing contrast with the rather sere landscape you hit as soon as you cross the border into Spain. It's a lovely, mellow walk from OSM to Sarrance, where the stay at the monastery is top-notch. (You can even get a private room for a little bit more, as I mentioned on another thread). A sweet communal dinner, and one of the brothers who played the organ in Conques (a special place on the Le Puy route) will serenade you.

Given all the problems with the road construction, I would suggest walking only to Accous the next day. On the way there, you'll pass through the woods, on the edge of a steep hill with a stream far down below. It's gorgeous, but keep your eyes open. At Accous, jump on the bus to Urdos, where you can enjoy the hospitality at the gite, or stay in the inexpensive hotel right next door. There's a store attached to the gite, where you can buy food to make for dinner, or eat at the hotel next door.

And after a relatively short day, you'll be primed to tackle the ascent the next day.

As I said, I never know what to counsel anyone else. To me, there are no "shoulds" or "gotta do's." All I can say is that I really appreciate the "differentness" of France. I love the lushness of the countryside in this area in particular, and (what seems to me) a mellower vibe. And nothing can top the food, of course. You might even get hooked by France, if you give yourself the opportunity!

Feel free to reach out further, if you want to talk more. You should have my real-world email address. I'll be around until mid-April, when my wife and I are heading out to walk the Magna Via Francigena in Sicily.

Overall, there are no bad choices! And none of this is to "diss" Spain. I love it, it's just wonderful in a different way.


And totally unrelated, the walk down from the monastery to Santa Cruz isn't that bad. It's rocky and steep and slow going, but it's only about two miles and it's no different from trails you might have encountered in Oregon. I don't remember anything that resembles technical climbing. Glad I took a taxi up there, however. The climb up is apparently a different ball of wax.

 

[Vacajoe]

Starting from OSM and adding those days is far superior to walking a few extra days on the CF once you finish the CA. As noted previously, transportation exists from Canfranc Estacion. Also, if the track work is done, the train from Zaragoza goes all the way to Estacion without having to change in Jaca. Not sure the status of those works, though. Zaragoza is worthy of a visit, so I’m glad you are stopping a night there.

Definitely walk from Jaca to Santa Cruz, not because it’s exceptionally beautiful but because it’s part of the route. If you are capable and have the time, you should try to walk as much of the route as you possibly. We walked IN SNOW both up and down the mountain to see the monasteries (old and new) using the road instead of the trail due to the weather. It was no more difficult than the harder parts of the CF.

Take the Lumbier Gorge alternative route, if possible.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Anecdotally I think most on the forum writing about the trail down to Santa Cruz from the monasteries say not to do it. Personally I don't think it that bad (but a lot of my backpacking and hiking was done along pretty rough trails.)

However, this stretch will be done early on your Camino when you may not be in great shape; will you want to risk the rest of your Camino?

 

[JerryStroebele]

I totally agree with Andycohn's French sentiments. We started in Pau last October and found walking in France totally charming. And of course, felt almost at home after Somport. Bon Chemin

 

[alinnebernd]

I'm walking the Aragones in April, probably starting in Somport. I'm trying to get an idea of the public transport I'll need. BTW, thanks to everyone for all the info in previous posts. I've learned a lot.

Here's what I think I'll do. Please feel free to tell me where I've got it wrong, or how I could do it better.

I'm flying into Madrid (from the States) and then taking a train that morning to Zaragoza where I'll spend the night. The next morning I'll take a train to Jaca and bus to Somport from there. I'll either spend the night in Somport or start walking that day to Confrac Pueblo. Next day walk to Jaca.

From Jaca, I'd like to go to the Monastery but the bus isn't running from Jaca until May (true?), so that means I have to take a taxi. I could take a taxi from Jaca to the monastery and then walk to Santa Cilia OR walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and take a taxi to monastery from there. Then walk back to Santa Cilia or all the way to Arres. OR I guess I could walk to Santa Cilia from Jaca and spend the night. Then walk to the monastery and back the next day.

What is the walk from the monastery to Santa Cilia like? Or the walk from Jaca to Santa Cilia?

The rest of the route is straight forward. I will continue on a bit on the Frances, but don't have time to go all the way to Santiago this time. (I've walked into Santigo quite a few times, lost count how many. I've done all the most popular routes, so I have experience.)

To complicate things a tiny bit more, I could start a few stages farther into France, but that would mean more time on buses or trains before I start, yes? I have three weeks from landing in Spain until I leave again from Madrid.

Thoughts?

Cat

I would start before Somport and do the walk uphill because it is gorgeous!
Have you checked blablacar trips? I took a blablacar from Madrid to Oloron-Sainte-Marie to start my camino from there, it was much easier than finding a decent itinerary based only in public transportation.

 

[jouffroy47]

I took a taxi from the pilgrim gîte in Jaca [Albergue de peregrinos de Jaca], because the bus wasn't running, but found others there to share it with. The pilgrim gîte in Santa Cilia [Albergue de peregrinos de Santa Cilia] is lovely and they will allow you to stay two days, if you wish, in order to visit the monastery. Again, I shared a taxi to Santa Cilia from the monastery, but a Japanese walker, who hiked down from there, said it was brutal. On the other hand, I absolutely loved the scenic walk down from Somport, and if you stay in Canfranc [pueblo], the donativo pilgrim gîte [Elías Valiña] there is five star. If you start further out in France, I would begin in Oloron-Ste-Marie. There is a tiny segment [5 km] where there is road construction from Borce to Urdos, where most take the bus, although it is still walkable. Walking along the Gave d'Aspe just before and after Sarrance is a bit harrowing for some, as you are walking along a very narrow ledge above the river for a fair distance, but it is a very beautiful area nonetheless.

 

[andycohn]

I totally agree with Andycohn's French sentiments. We started in Pau last October and found walking in France totally charming. And of course, felt almost at home after Somport. Bon Chemin

I love it when someone totally agrees with me!!!! (Never happens at home). Thanks!

 

[CatPhillips]

Great advice from everyone. Thanks so much!

Here's the newest plan:

Take the afternoon (3:49) train/bus from Zaragoza to Canfranc (looks like the train still doesn't go all the way), then the 8:01pm bus to OSM (Oloron-Sainte-Maria for newbies like me), which gets me into OSM at 9:17pm. That's late but it gives me time in Zaragoza to sleep in, relax, and/or take in the sights. Also, the earlier buses from Canfranc Station don't go all the way to OSM. (I called the gite in OSM and they very kindly said they would meet me at the station at 9:15! How sweet!)

Then Day1, I start walking from OSM to Sarriance, then day 2 walk to Accous and catch the bus to Urdos (because of the landslide). Day 3, up to Somport, Day 4 back down the other side to Canfranc Pueblo. Day 5 to Jaca. Day 6 to St. Cilia. (Gronze says don't walk the path from Jaca to the monastery alone, so maybe I'll take their advice.)

From St. Cilia the next morning, I can take a taxi up to the monastery (this is possible, yes?) and maybe walk back down the road to Santa Cruz and then catch the path the rest of the way back to St. Cilia, or all the way to Arres. OR get a taxi back down.

Then all the rest.

I am excited about being in France, even for a short time, so thanks for the encouragement. I've been hesitant to walk the French caminos alone since I have absolutely no French. But I do have google translate!

I understand that I should let them know I'm coming, at the gites in France, true?

Looks like the albergue in Sanguesa is closed, unfortunately. Too bad. I was hoping to stay there.

Thanks again for all the advice!

Hugs, Cat

 

[andycohn]

Great advice from everyone. Thanks so much!

Here's the newest plan:

Take the afternoon (3:49) train/bus from Zaragoza to Canfranc (looks like the train still doesn't go all the way), then the 8:01pm bus to OSM (Oloron-Sainte-Maria for newbies like me), which gets me into OSM at 9:17pm. That's late but it gives me time in Zaragoza to sleep in, relax, and/or take in the sights. Also, the earlier buses from Canfranc Station don't go all the way to OSM. (I called the gite in OSM and they very kindly said they would meet me at the station at 9:15! How sweet!)

Then Day1, I start walking from OSM to Sarriance, then day 2 walk to Accous and catch the bus to Urdos (because of the landslide). Day 3, up to Somport, Day 4 back down the other side to Canfranc Pueblo. Day 5 to Jaca. Day 6 to St. Cilia. (Gronze says don't walk the path from Jaca to the monastery alone, so maybe I'll take their advice.)

From St. Cilia the next morning, I can take a taxi up to the monastery (this is possible, yes?) and maybe walk back down the road to Santa Cruz and then catch the path the rest of the way back to St. Cilia, or all the way to Arres. OR get a taxi back down.

Then all the rest.

I am excited about being in France, even for a short time, so thanks for the encouragement. I've been hesitant to walk the French caminos alone since I have absolutely no French. But I do have google translate!

I understand that I should let them know I'm coming, at the gites in France, true?

Looks like the albergue in Sanguesa is closed, unfortunately. Too bad. I was hoping to stay there.

Thanks again for all the advice!

Hugs, Cat

Sounds like a great plan! The only minor glitch is that the albergue at Somport pass is likely to be closed. Last year it didn't open until May 18th. But you can email them to find out when they open. The address is in Gronze. If it's closed, you'll have to continue down to Canfranc. If you're wiped out by the climb, you can take a bus down, or there's a guy who can
come pick you up in a taxi. He's got a sign with his phone number right at the pass.

 

[J Willhaus]

Great advice from everyone. Thanks so much!

Here's the newest plan:

Take the afternoon (3:49) train/bus from Zaragoza to Canfranc (looks like the train still doesn't go all the way), then the 8:01pm bus to OSM (Oloron-Sainte-Maria for newbies like me), which gets me into OSM at 9:17pm. That's late but it gives me time in Zaragoza to sleep in, relax, and/or take in the sights. Also, the earlier buses from Canfranc Station don't go all the way to OSM. (I called the gite in OSM and they very kindly said they would meet me at the station at 9:15! How sweet!)

Then Day1, I start walking from OSM to Sarriance, then day 2 walk to Accous and catch the bus to Urdos (because of the landslide). Day 3, up to Somport, Day 4 back down the other side to Canfranc Pueblo. Day 5 to Jaca. Day 6 to St. Cilia. (Gronze says don't walk the path from Jaca to the monastery alone, so maybe I'll take their advice.)

From St. Cilia the next morning, I can take a taxi up to the monastery (this is possible, yes?) and maybe walk back down the road to Santa Cruz and then catch the path the rest of the way back to St. Cilia, or all the way to Arres. OR get a taxi back down.

Then all the rest.

I am excited about being in France, even for a short time, so thanks for the encouragement. I've been hesitant to walk the French caminos alone since I have absolutely no French. But I do have google translate!

I understand that I should let them know I'm coming, at the gites in France, true?

Looks like the albergue in Sanguesa is closed, unfortunately. Too bad. I was hoping to stay there.

Thanks again for all the advice!

Hugs, Cat

Check before you arrive in Sanguesa. Last year they were open later in the summer. @Vacajoe had reported some difficulties with some albergues and staffing last year early on. There's also an albergue in Yesa if you take the detour through Javier. Last summer they took reservations and also the Leyre Monastery is up the hill from Yesa. Some people used to take the northern route around the Yesa Reservoir, but there's really no infrastructure on that variant until you get to Yesa.

 

[CatPhillips]

Sounds like a great plan! The only minor glitch is that the albergue at Somport pass is likely to be closed. Last year it didn't open until May 18th. But you can email them to find out when they open. The address is in Gronze. If it's closed, you'll have to continue down to Canfranc. If you're wiped out by the climb, you can take a bus down, or there's a guy who can
come pick you up in a taxi. He's got a sign with his phone number right at the pass.

Good catch. This is why I love this forum. I checked their website and it said closed in April except weekends. Sent a message to see if Sunday counts as a weekend night. We shall see.

 

[trecile]

Also, the earlier buses from Canfranc Station don't go all the way to OSM.

No, but you can take the bus to Bedous, then a train to O-S-M.

Here are a couple of posts with the bus and train schedules:

Here you go, I was sent just now from local resident:

There are actually four daily buses in that direction, the first three terminate at Bedous, but from there there is a connecting train.

View attachment 163472

And the train schedule:
The 11:24 bus will leave you tight for time, but if you take the one at 14:36, you'll have plenty of time and make it to Oloron for 16:20.

When you arrive, the air is often heavy with the smell of chocolate, especially when it's a damp day.. consider it a bonus!

View attachment 163473

 

[CatPhillips]

Check before you arrive in Sanguesa. Last year they were open later in the summer. @Vacajoe had reported some difficulties with some albergues and staffing last year early on. There's also an albergue in Yesa if you take the detour through Javier. Last summer they took reservations and also the Leyre Monastery is up the hill from Yesa. Some people used to take the northern route around the Yesa Reservoir, but there's really no infrastructure on that variant until you get to Yesa.

This detour through Javier is between Ruesta and Sanguesa, yes? Gronze doesn't explain this. What guide do you use for this route?

​

 

[CatPhillips]

No, but you can take the bus to Bedous, then a train to O-S-M.

Here are a couple of posts with the bus and train schedules:

I see, yes, I looked back at the previous posts. Thanks!

 

[J Willhaus]

This detour through Javier is between Ruesta and Sanguesa, yes? Gronze doesn't explain this. What guide do you use for this route?

​

My husband had been to Javier a few years before for a hospitalero gathering so we knew it was in this area. From Undues de Lerda, you can follow the CV-684 or use Google Maps with some walking paths. It is about 9 km. If you want to go on to Yesa from Javier, it is about 5.5 km north. To Sanquesa from Javier it is about 8 km.

 

[CatPhillips]

Sounds like a great plan! The only minor glitch is that the albergue at Somport pass is likely to be closed. Last year it didn't open until May 18th. But you can email them to find out when they open. The address is in Gronze. If it's closed, you'll have to continue down to Canfranc. If you're wiped out by the climb, you can take a bus down, or there's a guy who can
come pick you up in a taxi. He's got a sign with his phone number right at the pass.

I'm wondering, if the albergue at Somport pass is closed, what about the next town, Candanchu? It looks like there are several places to stay. Does anyone know anything about the lodging there?

 

[JerryStroebele]

Candanchu is a huge ski resort. MANY lifts and runs. A couple of hotels and many huge apartment/condo buildings. Last October there was no snow yet (the great European heat wave was just about to end.) and despite our inquiries, no sleeping availability of any sort. All closed up. We were happy to get a cold beer at one of the two open hotel cafe/restaurants. I'm sure in winter it is a hopping place and you could find accommodation. (Likely for a big price.) The pleasant man who served our NICE COLD beer said he was off work in a few minutes and offered to drive us to the delightful albergue in Canfranc Pueblo. The next morning we caught the bus back to Candanchu and resumed walking downhill from there. The albergue in Canfranc Pueblo is named for Don Elias Valina, the priest who restored the church and albergue in O Cebriero, researched the history of the Camino and, working with local people, re-established the routes and began the marking with yellow arrows. The Canfranc Pueblo albergue is newly remodeled, fantastic, but is more so because of the wonderful volunteer hospitaleras.

Canfranc Pueblo is a small town. It burned many years ago and most residents moved up the valley to Canfranc Station. The remodeled train station there (where Hitler met Franco) is now a sight to see -- and a parador. Yes, you could $tay there. Buen Camino

 

[andycohn]

I'm wondering, if the albergue at Somport pass is closed, what about the next town, Candanchu? It looks like there are several places to stay. Does anyone know anything about the lodging there?

Even if JerryStroebele hadn't agreed with everything I said about walking in France, I would have agreed with him about everything he says here about Candanchu and the albergue at Canfranc Pueblo.

When we came over the Somport pass last May, we knew in advance that the albergue was still closed, so tried to find some place to stay in Candanchu. Totally locked up shut. Like Jerry, too, we got a lift down from the pass, then bused back up there the next morning and walked down to the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo. A wonderful place.

 

[dick bird]

We stayed in Candanchú in August. Pretty sure this is the one, open all year according to Gronze. It was in the basement of a ski lodge so a bit unobvious but perfectly fine. I´ve added another from Gronze. Candanchú is definitely a ski resort but hiking and mountaineering have got a lot more popular in Spain so some places here stay open for walkers etc. You can reserve.
Teléfono:
+34 974 372 378
+34 659 001 201
E-mail:
refugiopepegarces@gmail.com(link sends e-mail)
Web:
www.refugiopepegarces.com

Dirección:
Albergue Refugio El Águila
Localidad:
Candanchú
Teléfono:
+34 974 373 291
E-mail:
info@albergueelaguila.com(link sends e-mail)
Web:
albergueelaguila.com

 

[Theatregal]

I'm wondering, if the albergue at Somport pass is closed, what about the next town, Candanchu? It looks like there are several places to stay. Does anyone know anything about the lodging there?

I stayed at the Hotel Candanchú at the end of August last year. A wonderful place - breakfast was included. The next morning I was offered a ride up to Somport, got a stamp for my credential at the Aysa Hostal and started walking from there.