- Time of past OR future Camino
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Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.
The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.
The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.
I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.
Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.
I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.
The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.
The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.
I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.
Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.
I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.