Thanks, that was a great post, Eric. Made me go back to my walks on the Sanabrés.
Tucked away in your report is the extremely sad news that the diversion from Aciberos is now complete. The last time I was there I remember seeing earth movers on my way down to the stream crossing, but the path was still open. It was one of the prettiest most peaceful green tunnel walks on any camino. I am sad that it had to be sacrificed for the train. You say the path is not blocked. Any idea whether it is still walkable?
When you say there was nothing on route in Villavella, I am wondering if that includes the 4 star spa, since it is just a couple minutes off the camino unlike the hotel up on the highway. When I walked we got a very good breakfast there at a reasonable price, and the staff told us all about special spa treatment prices for pilgrims. I remember vaguely that some have done this, any recent reports?
Is the restaurant in the Pensión Oscar in A Gudiña still open? I have had several long lunches there in a very crowded and animated restaurant behind the bar.
I take it you had a good experience at Casa César on the way out of Ourense. I was creeped out and would not have recommended it, maybe things have changed.
Is the albergue in Castro Dozón still a bit out of town in the municipal pool facility? The kitchen when I was there was very large, very well equipped. It was the "gang showers" that were a bit unusual, but they were sex-segregated. I still haven't made it to what is supposedly a gorgeous romanesque church (maybe monastery) a km or so off route. Has anyone visited it?
http://www.arquivoltas.com/11-Galicia/01-Dozon1.htm
Does the entrance into Santiago still go over the RR tracks near the spot of the train crash? The homemade memorials were all still there last time I walked over and it was very poignant, adding another emotional layer to the entrance into Santiago.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to walk down memory lane, it sure seems like the Sanabrés is another one of those caminos languishing in the shadows. Not sure why, since everyone who walks it raves about it!
Buen camino, Laurie