Roncesvalles

[HeatherWriter]

Is there a reason why everyone seems to stop at Roncesvalles? Is there something particularly special about it or is it just because it is convenient?
Thanks!
Heather

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Roncesvalles is the "official" starting point for the Spanish on the Camino Frances. It is also the first "major" stop after leaving St. Jean Pied de Port. The quotation marks are because neither is quite true!

 

[William Marques]

Tradition, especially if you are walking for religious or spiritual reasons.

Roncesvalles monastery was founded in the 11th century and it has always been of great significance to the Camino. It was once one of the wealthiest monastery on the entire route and famous for the treatment which pilgrims received here.

A 12th century poem sings the praises of the monastery´s legendary hospitality, a few lines of which are:
"The door lies open to all, to sick and strong,
Not only to Catholics but to pagans too
Jews, heretics, idlers, vagabonds,
In short, to good and bad, sacred and profane.
….
women and men took it upon themselves to minister,
doing so with great charity"

 

[Chacharm]

If you start in SJPP it is not easy to get to Roncesvalles. It isn't far to the next town, but trust me, you won't want to go on. We spent two days getting to Roncesvalles and it was uphill ALL THE WAY. Easily the toughest two days of the Camino.
We had a fantastic dinner there too, then some wine at the hotel. Then the priest decided to give a bunch of us a late night tour of the Cathedral. We were all (including the priest) a bit tipsy. The hospitalero was upset because it was past 10 and he was closing it all up. The priest declared he was the boss and we all set off to see the crypts and all with nothing to light our way except cell phone light.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

it was uphill ALL THE WAY

It seems that way, but the last hour or two is steeply downhill. On my last walk to Roncesvalles I stayed on the road because of bad weather. Since I find downhill worse than uphill, I disliked the stretch from the summit into Roncesvalles more than the walk up from St. Jean to the summit!

Doing Jean to Roncesvalles in one day is a difficult task, but many do it.

 

[Chacharm]

We didn't do the summit - we walked around as recommended by the pilgrim's office. It was incredibly beautiful! I am so glad we didn't go up and suffer the way so many did in terrible weather. And you're right - there is a steep descent into Roncesvalles...but I rather enjoyed that after the hours and hours of uphill! We had a habit of running downhill - so that bit seems like a very short trot in memory. Never the less...it was a tough couple of days and there was no way I could have walked beyond Roncesvalles.

 

[migolito]

"Then the priest decided to give a bunch of us a late night tour of the Cathedral. We were all (including the priest) a bit tipsy. The hospitalero was upset because it was past 10 and he was closing it all up. The priest declared he was the boss and we all set off to see the crypts and all with nothing to light our way except cell phone light."

Now that's cool!

 

[DeadFred]

Chacharm..Please expand some on "Walked Around " if you would . I've been waffling on whether or not to take the Mountain route ( Napoleon) or the lower route . I hear the mountain is stunningly beautiful and would hate to miss that.. but .. at what price?.. I have 24 months to decide so that leaves me plenty of waffling time. My wife is leaving it up to me to decide so your discription would be a great help

We didn't do the summit - we walked around as recommended by the pilgrim's office. It was incredibly beautiful!

Thanks
Joe

 

[Deleted member 3000]

expand some on "Walked Around "

The Valcarlos route pretty much follows the road, so it is uphill consistently until a series of switchbacks just before Ibaneta, then drops down modestly into Roncesvalles. The Napolean route goes higher and descends more rapidly, and it is not recommended by the Pilgrim Office in bad weather. The Valcarlos route may be a little shorter and easier.

 

[robertt]

I found the Valcarlos route scenic and lots of fun. So either way would be good. It was late May of 2010 when I crossed, but the weather had been frightful, so it was recommended to take the safer option. People did go through the pass that day, and told me it had been a little touch and go.

Mind you, I continued in 2011 from Pamplona in February, and pilgrims overtaking me (that's everybody!) told me they went through the pass without difficulty - in winter!

The most dangerous conditions I encountered were on the descent of the Aubrac from Nasbinals, early spring, 2010. Heaps of fresh, new snow. I took advice and just strolled down the cleared road, but there were pilgrims and others sticking to the GR65, and a short period of white-out with a wrong turn could have meant big trouble.

One day I'll do something brave. Maybe. Not really.

 

[mspath]

expand some on "Walked Around "

The Valcarlos route pretty much follows the road, so it is uphill consistently until a series of switchbacks just before Valcarlos, then drop down modestly into Roncesvalles. The Napolean route goes higher and descends more rapidly, and it is not recommended by the Pilgrim Office in bad weather. The Valcarlos route may be a little shorter and easier.

Since I am old I have always walked the Valcarlos route. Hence I would amend Falcons's statement to read "The Valcarlos route pretty much follows the road, so it is uphill consistently WITH a series of switchbacks just before IBANETA, then drop down modestly into Roncesvalles".

This is NOT a walk in the park under any conditions. Since I walk slowly it takes me between 4 and 5 hours to go up from Valcarlos to Roncevalles depending on the weather.

Margaret

 

[David]

Yes, and the Valcarlos path suddenly veers off the road and descends or ascends into some very broken ground a few times too. And, there is still a mountain to walk up! Definitely not an easy walk at all :|

 

[texastrekker]

so what are all the options to get to roncesvalles from sjpdp?

1. hike to orrison & spend night IF you have a reservation ahead of time (non-refundable) and then hike to roncesvalles on day 2 all on napoleon route

2. hike to orrison, spend night then continue on napoleon route to Roncesvalles

3. hike to orrison, spend night then hike to top of mt and take alternate route towards ibaneta then on to roncesvalles

4. take alternate route --valcarlos from sjpdp---can stop at valcarlos overnight then take same route to roncesvalles

5. hike to sjpdp to roncesvalles with no overnights on the way with napoleon on valcarlos routes

6. take a taxi for all or pat of either route???? where is the last place on napoleon and valcarlos routes where you can still get a taxi if needed?

7. other?

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Texas!

What's the difference between 1) and 2)? I have never walked the Napoleon route.

7) Could be following the road all the way from Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. You have to walk a few kms alongside the road anyway, but then the normal route takes you off-road and through the valley. Continuing on the road is probably longer but less steep. However that road doesn't have a path alongside so it would be wise to wear high visibility gear if you choose to do that, and if you go 'off the normal route' drivers may not be expecting to encounter pilgs. (I wouldn't really recommend it unless in unusual circumstances.)

Buen Camino!