21 June 2019 - Elche de la Sierra
Yesterday I walked from Moratalla to Tazona (about 25 kms).
Had I known I was going to be walking only on tarmac for the next two days (and tomorrow is likely to be no different) I think I would have followed the manager at Hostal El Retiro's advise and gone over the Sierra del Cerezo. It wouldn't have added too many extra miles, though it would of course have taken longer and required a good deal more water. Maybe also one of those Gizmo Electronico that all serious walkers now seem to use to find their way about. The route over the Sierra appears to be about 10 kms up and 10 kms down and rejoins the Ruta del Argar at Las Murtas, where there is a tap of potable water (slightly hidden behind the last of the derelict houses on the right).
Just before Tazona you leave Murcia province and enter La Mancha. There's a somewhat surreal road sign here reminding drivers that the road may be icey. I guess winters can be hard here but with 33C and no shade it was difficult to imagine.
Tazona has a hotel, a bar with a restaurant, a shop and a pharmacy. Hostal Posada de la Sierra (Calle Principe de Asturias 2, 967 41 37 26). It's clean and quiet. 30.00 euros. There's no reception, either phone or ring the doorbell of the house just across the road and down the hill.
Today I walked from Tazona to Elche de la Sierra (29 kms and all on asphalt).
It wasn't a bad walk, the scenery was spectacular but I always find the road a little tedious. It's not a busy or dangerous road and most of the time I could have walked right down the middle of it. Given the jagged terrain and the almost vertical cliff faces I imagine the road is the only realistic way through these mountains. It goes up and down and round and around but always with fine views. Pine forests and some logging. Much more rugged terrain and the wheat fields have been left behind - for now at least. Surprisingly green.
Half way to Socovos is the hermitage of San Felipe and Santiago - a shady spot with benches and tables. Suitable for a break?
Socovos has bars, restaurants and shops. Bar de los Franceses advertises 'habitaciones con baños' but was closed (Thursdays and Fridays) when I passed by. I imagine Socovos would make for a rather more interesting stop than Tazona if, of course, Los Franceses is open.
There are bars and shops in Ferez, and El Gallego is a great place to draw breath and cool down. You can have a nice dip in the Rio Segura and there's a bar/restaurant just after the bridge.
Elche de la Sierra has all you'll need including three hotels. I stayed in Hotel Moreno (C/ Bolea 44, 967 41 02 62 - 35.00 euros) because the other two (cheaper) options were full - Cafe Bar Metro and Hostal Tio Pepe. The manager of the Hotel Moreno is the first person I have met so far on this walk who was clued up on the Camino. He's walked the last 200 kms of the
Camino Frances and more recently, as a Bicigrino, had cycled from here to Santiago in one week (averaging 120 kms per diem). Judging by his size, he's not done much cycling since! Being Friday evening and after 5 days of relative peace and quiet Elche de la Sierra was a bit of a return to reality. Bars and restaurants full, quad bikes roaring up the main street, shouting and singing - weekenders out for a good time. Life goes on outside the walker's bubble.
I'd have liked to try the local 'caracoles' but they looked too small and fiddly to eat. On reflection maybe you just suck them out or crunch through the shell?
Alfìn del Asfalto