Safety on the Salvador

[Zellyzel]

Hi pilgrims, I'm going to hike the Camino del Salvador this week and plan on doing it in roughly 5 days.

I wanted to seek out insight into the safety of the route for the start of October. I read on another thread that albergues were often full each night at the end of August. Can anyone (especially solo female hikers) offer any advice or perspective into what I can realistically expect? Is it safe to hike alone? Are there usually other hikers at this time of year?

Thanks!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi pilgrims, I'm going to hike the Camino del Salvador this week and plan on doing it in roughly 5 days.

I wanted to seek out insight into the safety of the route for the start of October. I read on another thread that albergues were often full each night at the end of August. Can anyone (especially solo female hikers) offer any advice or perspective into what I can realistically expect? Is it safe to hike alone? Are there usually other hikers at this time of year?

Thanks!

At this time of year, I don’t think there will be a lot of pilgrims walking the Salvador. I have walked this route three or four times alone and have never had a problem with safety. Even at “peak times” in August, you are not likely to see others out on the walk, because the “crowds” are never going to be more than 15-20 at a particular end—stage. If you want to meet others, I would spend the first night in the La Robla albergue, because that‘s where most of the people on a 5-day-plan will be sleeping. The hospitalera in La Robla is well plugged in to the camino pipeline and will have good information on weather and next stages. The hospitaleras in Pajares (Marisa) and Bendueños (Sandra) are extraordinary people and very helpful. I do not know if Bendueños will be open, but you can WhatsApp Sandra to find out. 674 67 17 06.

I’ve walked this route without a GPS and it is well-marked, but I think having the tracks on the phone is a very good idea. There are some remote kms, particularly between Buiza and Poladura de la Tercia, and Poladura and Puerto de Arbás I refuse to walk with my face in my phone, so I use wikiloc tracks, which beep at me when I get off-route and it works great.

I’ve walked the Salvador once in late September and once in early October and it was beautiful. Maybe not as gorgeous as summer with all the yellow flowers carpeting the ground, but it is beautiful. If you like mountains, you will love the middle section. Buen camino!

 

[Zellyzel]

Thanks so much for your detailed reply, @peregrina2000 ! I saw on a couple of other threads some mentions of alternate routes to take that are better than what was originally there and feel a bit overwhlemed by all the information. Would you say it's generally okay if I follow the yellow arrows the whole way, or some areas it's a little vague/hard to follow?

Also can you explain what are "Ender's notes", which I keep seeing referenced?

 

[Zellyzel]

Okay update - been thoroughly immersed in this forum while waiting at the train station and saw the Salvador Guide you posted on another thread. Very informative!

 

[gollygolly]

No two experiences are the same, though I remember the San Salvador as very well signed - and that was in March when No two experiences are the same, though I remember the San Salvador as very well signed - and that was in March when walking through quite deep snow

 

[karl.worley]

Okay update - been thoroughly immersed in this forum while waiting at the train station and saw the Salvador Guide you posted on another thread. Very informative!

I downloaded it and moved it to a file I could reference on my phone. There is also a Wise Pilgrim App that you can download the maps to use offline while there. I begin the Salvador on the 18th, so I look forward to hearing how great it was for you!! Buen Camino

 

[Zellyzel]

I downloaded it and moved it to a file I could reference on my phone. There is also a Wise Pilgrim App that you can download the maps to use offline while there. I begin the Salvador on the 18th, so I look forward to hearing how great it was for you!! Buen Camino

Yes, I've done the same! I'm an over-preparer, so I've downloaded maps on AllTrails, wikiloc, and Wise Pilgrim haha. I was hiking the Frances but got a bit bored so am very excited to do the Salvador! A bit nervous about the accounts of aggressive dogs and potentially problematic terrain, but just gotta go slow and be cautious, I suppose.

 

[karl.worley]

Yes, I've done the same! I'm an over-preparer, so I've downloaded maps on AllTrails, wikiloc, and Wise Pilgrim haha. I was hiking the Frances but got a bit bored so am very excited to do the Salvador! A bit nervous about the accounts of aggressive dogs and potentially problematic terrain, but just gotta go slow and be cautious, I suppose.

I worry about the dogs as well. I had one chase me around town a few years ago while walking el dragonte. Good news is it never bit me and helped me get off track and add 10 more km to my day!! Everyone I have spoken with has said as long as you keep cool, back up and give more room between you and their flock, they are ok. I guess the Camino is a great place to face your fears! Enjoy the path! I am sure the Camino is leading you that way for a reason!!

 

[Zellyzel]

Ha, funnily enough I was talking to someone this morning on the Frances who was bitten on the hand by a dog a few days ago and was taking anti-biotics for it. On the Le Puy trail I was freaked out by the farm dogs that come at you out of nowhere and definitely looked at them in the eye (forgot it was a sign of aggression until after the fact). Do hiking poles scare them? I was wondering at the time if my poles were maybe triggering a bad experience they'd had with someone.

 

[Alister M]

I walked the Salvador from 22-25 September this year. Accommodation was not an issue

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked the Salvador from 22-25 September this year. Accommodation was not an issue

What were your stages, @Alister M? Would love to hear your impressions of this route!

 

[David Tallan]

At this time of year, I don’t think there will be a lot of pilgrims walking the Salvador. I have walked this route three or four times alone and have never had a problem with safety. Even at “peak times” in August, you are not likely to see others out on the walk, because the “crowds” are never going to be more than 15-20 at a particular end—stage. If you want to meet others, I would spend the first night in the La Robla albergue, because that‘s where most of the people on a 5-day-plan will be sleeping. The hospitalera in La Robla is well plugged in to the camino pipeline and will have good information on weather and next stages. The hospitaleras in Pajares (Marisa) and Bendueños (Sandra) are extraordinary people and very helpful. I do not know if Bendueños will be open, but you can WhatsApp Sandra to find out. 674 67 17 06.

I’ve walked this route without a GPS and it is well-marked, but I think having the tracks on the phone is a very good idea. There are some remote kms, particularly between Buiza and Poladura de la Tercia, and Poladura and Puerto de Arbás I refuse to walk with my face in my phone, so I use wikiloc tracks, which beep at me when I get off-route and it works great.

I’ve walked the Salvador once in late September and once in early October and it was beautiful. Maybe not as gorgeous as summer with all the yellow flowers carpeting the ground, but it is beautiful. If you like mountains, you will love the middle section. Buen camino!

The albergue at Bendueños was certainly a highlight of my Camino San Salvador, one of the best albergues I've stayed in. Also worth mentioning: when I walked the albergue in Mieres was not open and many pilgrims were staying in the university residence (in which private rooms were available at reasonable prices in the summer). But if you walk three more km there is a very nice albergue in El Rollu that can be recommended with its own helpful hospitalera.

 

[Alister M]

What were your stages, @Alister M? Would love to hear your impressions of this route!

Leon to Pola de Gordon, then Pajares, then Mieres and then Oviedo. It was my 3rd time walking the Salvador/Primitivo, which I finished on Wednesday. Days 1 and 4 are easy but days 2 and 3 are hard. From Buiza, a bit after Pola de Gordon, it’s a solid climb and then another toughish climb later after the only town across the top. The really hard but is the descent from the border with Asturias down to Pajares, about 4-5km of really hard work. The next day, from Pajares to Pola de Lena is also a tough walk with lots of climbing and descending.

As for the original post mentioning safety, there were single women walking and I am not aware of any safety issue along the route

 

[Zellyzel]

Thanks so much for your insight, everyone!! Wow, I love this forum. Always so great to discuss things from others who have first-hand experience and advice.

 

[Zellyzel]

Another question - what's phone coverage like? I'm guessing there will be some patchy areas in the more remote stretches but overall still accessible?

 

[peregrina2000]

Another question - what's phone coverage like? I'm guessing there will be some patchy areas in the more remote stretches but overall still accessible?

I think I had some spots without coverage, but I had a Vodafone Sim card. Ender tells me that Movistar is more reliable in remote areas, not only in this part of Spain but pretty much all over. I can confirm that this year on the Lana, @C Clearly’s Movistar got better coverage than my Vodfone.

But in case of an emergency, it’s good to know that dialing 112 will connect you with any provider’s coverage network, so that is comforting. I suppose there are still some areas where there is no coverage at all, but we’ve discussed this on the forum before and I think the consensus is that it’s not enough of a problem to require some sort of safety beacon or some other non-phone method of connecting with emergency services.

 

[peregrina2000]

Leon to Pola de Gordon, then Pajares, then Mieres and then Oviedo.

I think the only realistic way to walk the Salvador in 4 days is to make the first day to Pola de Gordón. I’ve also done it that way several times, but I think my very favorite Salvador was when I walked La Robla to Poladura to Pajares to Bendueños to Mieres to Oviedo. That makes for some crazily unbalanced days, and spreads it out over 5 days, but it is so hard to choose between Pajares and Bendueños, and if the weather is cooperating, having some extra time in both those places just adds to the beauty of the walk.

 

[dbier]

Although I was to your west (Oviedo Primitivo), when my phone went looking for another network in Asturias, it would go for Movistar. (Orange in Galicia)

Now, there were still a couple of valley villages with almost no coverage...but 112 and your GPS will still work.

 

[karl.worley]

Ha, funnily enough I was talking to someone this morning on the Frances who was bitten on the hand by a dog a few days ago and was taking anti-biotics for it. On the Le Puy trail I was freaked out by the farm dogs that come at you out of nowhere and definitely looked at them in the eye (forgot it was a sign of aggression until after the fact). Do hiking poles scare them? I was wondering at the time if my poles were maybe triggering a bad experience they'd had with someone.

Typically it just gives you a little buffer. I don’t think it scares them

 

[trecile]

Another question - what's phone coverage like? I'm guessing there will be some patchy areas in the more remote stretches but overall still accessible?

I don't remember having a problem with cell phone reception when I walked the Salvador in 2019. I was using my free data plan from T-Mobile.

 

[David Tallan]

I think the only realistic way to walk the Salvador in 4 days is to make the first day to Pola de Gordón. I’ve also done it that way several times, but I think my very favorite Salvador was when I walked La Robla to Poladura to Pajares to Bendueños to Mieres to Oviedo. That makes for some crazily unbalanced days, and spreads it out over 5 days, but it is so hard to choose between Pajares and Bendueños, and if the weather is cooperating, having some extra time in both those places just adds to the beauty of the walk.

I'm counting six stops there for six days rather than five (assuming an implicit first day from Leon to La Robla). On the other hand, it is pretty much what I did except I substituted El Rollu for Mieres making that day 3 km longer and slightly shortening the walk to Oviedo. I know what you mean about Pajares and Bendueños. They were my two favourite stops on the Salvador, but if I  had to choose I would go with Bendueños.

 

[Pafayac]

It takes 5 steps for me:
1) León-La Robla
2) La Robla-Poladura de la Tercia
3) Poladura de la Tercia-Payares
4) Payares-Pola de Lena
5) Pola de Lena-Oviedo
The second day has been particularly difficult for me (steep climbing).

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm counting six stops there for six days rather than five (assuming an implicit first day from Leon to La Robla).

Well, I guess my counting is off. Yes, that’s six days. Hard to remember the days when I had the luxury of that much time! Truly a lazy rambling Salvador. Poladura to Pajares and Pajares to Bendueños are very short days, and the weather was beautiful, Ender and co. were popping in for meals, and I just had to see Sandra’s new albergue in Bendueños.

Bendueños is really an especially wonderful albergue, with a camino angel hospitalera, in a little hamlet with an interesting little church and fantastic views. I know its placement makes it kind of awkward, because it’s a long day from Poladura and a very short day from Pajares, but it is oh so wonderful.

 

[NadineK]

I think the only realistic way to walk the Salvador in 4 days is to make the first day to Pola de Gordón. I’ve also done it that way several times, but I think my very favorite Salvador was when I walked La Robla to Poladura to Pajares to Bendueños to Mieres to Oviedo. That makes for some crazily unbalanced days, and spreads it out over 5 days, but it is so hard to choose between Pajares and Bendueños, and if the weather is cooperating, having some extra time in both those places just adds to the beauty of the walk.

I've walked the San Salvador twice, and in the summer of 2022 I walked these exact 6 stages, and I would choose this breakdown every time! Sure, there are a couple of short stages here, but with the beauty of the mountains and some more challenging stretches, I could slow down, take photos to my heart's content, and just soak it all up!

Safety-wise I've felt fine on the San Salvador, and animals typically don't frighten me, though there WAS one day when I might have seen a pack of wolves? Help me settle the debate: I posted a video to YouTube (the "wolves" sighting takes place at minute 2:45); some say they were cows. But so high up on those rocks? Maybe?

 

[David Tallan]

Bendueños is really an especially wonderful albergue, with a camino angel hospitalera, in a little hamlet with an interesting little church and fantastic views. I know its placement makes it kind of awkward, because it’s a long day from Poladura and a very short day from Pajares, but it is oh so wonderful.

On the other hand, the short day makes the extra 1.5 km off Camino straight uphill at the end of the day to Bendueños less of an imposition. It is certainly worth the extra climb. And the extra time in Bendueños is a luxury. You can lie around in the mountains and chat with the local farmer out walking his dogs.

 

[David Tallan]

I've walked the San Salvador twice, and in the summer of 2022 I walked these exact 6 stages, and I would choose this breakdown every time! Sure, there are a couple of short stages here, but with the beauty of the mountains and some more challenging stretches, I could slow down, take photos to my heart's content, and just soak it all up!

Safety-wise I've felt fine on the San Salvador, and animals typically don't frighten me, though there WAS one day when I might have seen a pack of wolves? Help me settle the debate: I posted a video to YouTube (the "wolves" sighting takes place at minute 2:45); some say they were cows. But so high up on those rocks? Maybe?

It was your videos that led me to Bendueños and adopting more or less the same stages (although I walked just past Mieres to El Rollu).

The silhouettes make those look a little more like cows to me. Perhaps there is pasture at the top of that ridge rather than bare rock, with the rock on the side face. On the other hand, they are so small that they could be either.

 

[gollygolly]

Another question - what's phone coverage like? I'm guessing there will be some patchy areas in the more remote stretches but overall still accessible?

This is not really an answer with specifics as to the mobile cover, but to relate that in the middle of nowhere, though at a high point of the San Salvador with snow falling, my mobile rang with a call coming in from the UK that was as clear as if the person was standing next to me. Atmospheric conditions, apparently. The San Salvador is a beautiful Camino, and I suggest let loose the worries and surrender and trust to the magic of the Universe. Years ago, before the mobile phone existed, along with all others, I walked with little certainty other than that we were all sharing an extraordinary experience - and for me the walking has lost none of that original magic, though personally believe that the mobile phone does not help to have a sense of the magic.

 

[El Cascayal]

it is so hard to choose between Pajares and Bendueños,

Loudly agree! It would be such a shame to miss either. Check with Sandra as above if Bendueños will be open.

I think I had some spots without coverage, but I had a Vodafone Sim card. Ender tells me that Movistar is more reliable in remote areas, not only in this part of Spain but pretty much all over.

Yes! When I tried 5d ago to get a Movistar SIM card in Oviedo and did not know when they would get more. I used Vodafone on the Salvador without any problem. Currently using Vodafone on the Norte all good so far. After Ribadeo will be the true test.
The Salvador is a dream! Buen Camino!