I loved Sigüenza, a highly recommended place for a rest day. The sad serene beauty of the Doncel is one of the highlights of the Lana, of any camino. With several Romanesque churches, one dedicated to Santiago, a porticoed Plaza Mayor built by Cardinal Mendoza and handsome streets in a compact city centre, there's plenty to see in a day. And to eat: the local speciality of borrachitos seguntinos, sponge cake soaked in liqueur, is worth a try,
The castle dominates the town but was badly bashed about in 1936. Now a parador, it was used as his headquarters by General Leopold Hugo, father of Victor, during the War of Independence. There seems to be no evidence that Victor ever visited his father there, staying in the relative safety of Madrid. His father was made Conde de Sigüenza and Grande de España by Joseph Bonaparte. Although he sometimes called himself Comte Hugo, rather like Marius had cards made in the name of Baron Pontmercy, Victor never used the Sigüenza bit, and it doesn't appear in any of his works set in Spain. Leopold Hugo ended the war as governor of Madrid, commanding the rear guard as Joseph scarpered. He had orders to remove the contents of the Prado to France but, luckily, failed.