Some info about the Via Campaniensis (Rocroi-Vézelay)

[GunnarW]

I walked from Couvin (border Belgium) to Rocroi (border France) till Vezelay. This route is called the Via Campaniensis.

The association RP51 which means Randonneurs et Pélerins (from the department) 51 is taking care of the camino. They made a guide with maps, addresses and things to see. The guide is reviewed every year. Here is their site. http://www.randonneurs-pelerins.com/ (click ENTRER)

During my camino, I met 3 volunteers of RP51. They will give you the last news like for example a change in the route or a sleeping place that is closed.

I started walking the 17th of September and arrived in Vézelay at the 1st of October. The navigator told me that I walked 434 km.

There is a place to sleep almost every 10 to 20 km. As there are many families who are receiving pélerins, you need to call the evening before.

My longest distance was from Hauteville till Reims: 50,5 km. Reason: it was Sunday and the place in between didn’t offer a solution. So I walked early in the morning and arrived at Reims 13 hours later.

I was almost alone on the camino. I checked some guest books and saw that at that period, every two days, there is someone walking. Many pélerins are from Holland.

I will share some pictures here below.

Between Couvin and the French border, I checked my GPS and walked through a forest. Very difficult but very nice.


Start of walking on the Via Campaniensis just after Rocroi.

 

[GunnarW]

Comparing with the camino Frances, there are more asphalt road son the Via Campaniensis. But it's not all asphalt. Admire this muddy road in a forest just after Aubigny Les Pothées in the region Ardennes.

 

[GunnarW]

Finally it stopped raining in Lalobbe


Early in the morning after Hauteville. Distance left to Santiago.


There is also a Meseta before the city Reims.


Finally the cathedral of Reims, but still 9 km to walk.


Reims after 4 days of walk

 

[GunnarW]

Heading to Rilly La Montagne


The first vine yards

 

[GunnarW]

After Rilly La Montagne, there is again a section through a large wood.


Epernay, the real centre of the Champagne region

 

[Kanga]

It looks beautiful. What are the arrangements for accommodation? Is it a list of families who are prepared to host pilgrims, or a more commercial arrangement - chambre d'hotes?

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Kanga,
Indeed, the camino is beautiful. It's a mixture of some woods - meadows - vine yards - small villages and at the end some hills.
About the arrangements: it's a mixtures of families, private gites, some gites communales (albergues), some parish houses and a few hotels. All the addresses and phone numbers are published in the RP51 guide. There are also some phone numbers in certain regions you can call and they can tell you where you can sleep. During my camino, two gites communales were shut down because the new maire decided so. One of those gites was just closed two weeks ago. But the employees of the townhall arranged for me a place where to sleep.
When I was walking into Sézanne, suddenly a yellow car stopped and a guy came to me. Jean-Luc told me he was a member of RP51 and gave me the last updates. So I took my guide and note all the new places and some places where the owners were on holiday. Also he showed me the parts of the road not to take because of too much mud or obstructed by works.

 

[GunnarW]

Just outside Epernay


A walk on an almost abandoned departmental road


Wild boars had some fun on the camino. But I didn't see one.


Arrived at Montmort-Lucy

 

[gittiharre]

Very interesting. Thank you so much for sharing your information.

 

[GunnarW]

Next stage is Montmort-Lucy till Sézanne
Camino after Baye




Sézanne

 

[GunnarW]

After Sézanne, you follow an old railroad track. The railroad is behind the marker.




After Clesles, your campagnon is an old canal.

 

[GunnarW]

From now on till Troyes, which is the next important city, you need to follow the old canal. You can walk at the left side in the grass or at the right side on the asphalt.

You can countdown the kilometers till Troyes: from Mery Sur Seine, 22 km to walk.


At the right side, behind the bushes is the river Seine, the most romantic river of the world sung in many songs... in Paris more exactly. So let's make a little detour to see how the Seine is in full nature.


The Seine, well hidden!


Back to the canal as there are still kilometers to walk till Troyes

 

[GunnarW]

Troyes. The house in front stands right, don't worry. But some of the old house aren't.



Leaving Troyes happens (now) on the Voie Verte: the green way. One hour of walk (5km) leaving the city without traffic, without noise.

After Troyes, the beautiful land of Othe

 

[GunnarW]

Heading to Flogny La Chapelle







Arrived at Ervy Le Chatel

 

[Kanga]

It looks stunning. Beautiful photography. Now, if there were just a few more pilgrims to meet.....

 

[GunnarW]

Meeting some pilgrims could be nice. Searching for the advantage of not meeting other pilgrims: no rush for a bed.

 

[GunnarW]

After Flogny La Chapelle: again a walk along a canal: Le canal de Bourgondie, only during 4 to 5 km.


The small church of St Jacques at Bernouil built in the 17th century.


Chablis is the next town, known also for their famous wine.

 

[GunnarW]

Again a walk through the vine yards after Chablis. There are more ups and down here.




The village St Cyr Les Colons has a beautiful four stars auberge but it was too early for me to stop.


Back on the Via Campaniensis.

I took a picture of myself showing my credencial. The places where the Mairie (Commune hall) was open, I asked for "un tampon" (sello). The image on a communal stamp is always the same: it represents the Marianne, the female symbol of France. At my back, you can see the church of Cravant, another small and very nice town.

 

[GunnarW]

A walk through Cravant


Leaving Cravant early in the morning hoping to arrive Vézelay in the afternoon. I took this picture just after Cravant on top of the hill.



Arcy-sur-Cure

Close to St Moré

 

[GunnarW]

The first time you can see Vézelay is just behind this farm.

It was not described in the guide that Vézelay was already visible at a certain point on this difficult road.

The camera set on full zoom. Still 2 hours to walk.

 

[GunnarW]

The last village before Vézelay is Asquins


The last kilometer is quite challenging climbing up the hill





Finally

 

[Frauke]

Hi Gunnar, How is the asphalt ratio after Troyes? I read it gets a little better after that point. Kind regards, Frauke