Struggling a bit on Mozárabe and seek advice regarding bookings

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi
I'm in a hotel bed (need to get up I know) in Pinos Puente and have to decide if I want to do a really short stage to Moclin or a longer double stretch. I have a huge problem with this call ahead for accommodations. I understand that it is important so I do have a place to stay but it takes away all My freedom I prefer on the camino. For instance today if I call a place in Moclin and then arrive there way to early, good legs and not to hot then I want to go further. Or if I decide to do the reservations 2 stages away and get to Moclin in a mess.... How welcoming are they of late cancellations? If I use bookings.com I'll be charged.

Apart from that CM is really nice and Almeria-Granada Association has been really helpful. Last night when I arrived late to the albergue with the code for the key I was stopped by a big green gate I saw a pad lock on the handle on the inside and didn't even start to try to open (tired and pissed of after a really shitty second half of a day that started so perfect). Sent a WhatsApp to Veronica and she said it should be open so if anyone else comes there and see the pad lock do an attempt before heading down the hill again to the hotel.

Time to go up and scrub through my backpack for some breakfast. Then try to find out the way through the olive groves instead of a river crossing, marked? Anyone with a GPS-track for that part (if responding within 30 minutes or so )

 

[lettinggo]

Hi
I'm in a hotel bed (need to get up I know) in Pinos Puente and have to decide if I want to do a really short stage to Moclin or a longer double stretch. I have a huge problem with this call ahead for accommodations. I understand that it is important so I do have a place to stay but it takes away all My freedom I prefer on the camino. For instance today if I call a place in Moclin and then arrive there way to early, good legs and not to hot then I want to go further. Or if I decide to do the reservations 2 stages away and get to Moclin in a mess.... How welcoming are they of late cancellations? If I use bookings.com I'll be charged.

Apart from that CM is really nice and Almeria-Granada Association has been really helpful. Last night when I arrived late to the albergue with the code for the key I was stopped by a big green gate I saw a pad lock on the handle on the inside and didn't even start to try to open (tired and pissed of after a really shitty second half of a day that started so perfect). Sent a WhatsApp to Veronica and she said it should be open so if anyone else comes there and see the pad lock do an attempt before heading down the hill again to the hotel.

Time to go up and scrub through my backpack for some breakfast. Then try to find out the way through the olive groves instead of a river crossing, marked? Anyone with a GPS-track for that part (if responding within 30 minutes or so )

Hola Beatrice

All I can help with here is a link to wikiloc's search result for Camino Monzarabe.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/find.do?t=&d=&lfr=&lto=&src=&act=&uom=mi&q=camino+Mozárabe

There are several tracked etapes and maybe they will come in handy later on your Camino

If the format is not the one that you use then you can convert them into other formats here:
www.gpx2kml.com (used with maps.me)

Here is a page explainen the use of overlay maps on smart phones:
https://www.santiago.nl/smartphone-on-the-camino


Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[AlanSykes]

Pinos Puente to Moclín is a short day but it's got a steep hill to climb at the end. The castle there ("the shield of Granada") is well worth an afternoon visit, not least for the spectacular views back over the Sierra Nevada.

The (excellent) hotel/albergue in Moclín is unlikely to be full except at the weekend (or possibly in August). If you do have the energy to carry on to Alcalá la Real (with another amazing castle) there are several accommodation options and not having a booking shouldn't be a problem. When I walked that way, in October, I never booked ahead and always found a bed.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hola Beatrice

All I can help with here is a link to wikiloc's search result for Camino Monzarabe.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/find.do?t=&d=&lfr=&lto=&src=&act=&uom=mi&q=camino+Mozárabe

There are several tracked etapes and maybe they will come in handy later on your Camino

If the format is not the one that you use then you can convert them into other formats here:
www.gpx2kml.com (used with maps.me)

Here is a page explainen the use of overlay maps on smart phones:
https://www.santiago.nl/smartphone-on-the-camino


Buen Camino
Lettinggo

Thanks, didn't see you post into I reached Olivares
Hi I have gps-routes for the whole route (using Maverick as an excellent app for viewing them) and have wikiloc as well. Couldn't find out which one was the alternative though. I did walk according to arrows instead the road way. Neither my wikiloc track or another more recent created track followed that way though so I guess at least one of them was the alternative. I ended up on 5 km road walking but then nice dirt tracks to Olivares.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Pinos Puente to Moclín is a short day but it's got a steep hill to climb at the end. The castle there ("the shield of Granada") is well worth an afternoon visit, not least for the spectacular views back over the Sierra Nevada.

The (excellent) hotel/albergue in Moclín is unlikely to be full except at the weekend (or possibly in August). If you do have the energy to carry on to Alcalá la Real (with another amazing castle) there are several accommodation options and not having a booking shouldn't be a problem. When I walked that way, in October, I never booked ahead and always found a bed.

Thanks. I'm in Olivares right now having some "breakfast" tea and crisps
I'll see how much energy I have after that climb soon. It will be a warm day. Any shade between Moclin and Alcála? I didn't mean reservations like that more to call town halls etc to stay in albergue. But so far I have got key codes from Veronica so I haven't had to call/pickup keys etc But I guess her "responsibility" ended in Grsnanda.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

That climb to Moclin was something but not as hard as I thought it would be. Almost shade all the way up in. Took me about 1 hour from bar to bar Olivares to Moclin. So I think I'll continue after a short break here.

 

[Walli Walker]

We (4 Australian women) walked the Mozarabe April 2017. We never booked ahead and always found a bed or, at least, floor space. We got lost in the olive groves but managed to find our way to Santiago. Buen Camino, Beatrice.

 

[Miki Goldie]

Hi
I'm in a hotel bed (need to get up I know) in Pinos Puente and have to decide if I want to do a really short stage to Moclin or a longer double stretch. I have a huge problem with this call ahead for accommodations. I understand that it is important so I do have a place to stay but it takes away all My freedom I prefer on the camino. For instance today if I call a place in Moclin and then arrive there way to early, good legs and not to hot then I want to go further. Or if I decide to do the reservations 2 stages away and get to Moclin in a mess.... How welcoming are they of late cancellations? If I use bookings.com I'll be charged.

Apart from that CM is really nice and Almeria-Granada Association has been really helpful. Last night when I arrived late to the albergue with the code for the key I was stopped by a big green gate I saw a pad lock on the handle on the inside and didn't even start to try to open (tired and pissed of after a really shitty second half of a day that started so perfect). Sent a WhatsApp to Veronica and she said it should be open so if anyone else comes there and see the pad lock do an attempt before heading down the hill again to the hotel.

Time to go up and scrub through my backpack for some breakfast. Then try to find out the way through the olive groves instead of a river crossing, marked? Anyone with a GPS-track for that part (if responding within 30 minutes or so )

I can relate about the lack of spontaneity with booking ahead as I had to get my bag transported every morning, so planned every evening. Sometimes I had to walk further than I wanted to. My friends had true freedom by not booking ahead. We always got a bed but had to lower expectations on price & comfort. Exhaustion can play its role too in things so have you thought about having a really short day or hooking with someone for a day ?
Sending Love
Miki

 

[LTfit]

Wishing you luck through the olive groves!

I did the Pinos Puente - Alcalá stage almost 4 years ago and got terribly lost. No GPS or tracks, just the Amigos guide with rudimentary maps so I called the Amigos in Granada bitching. They told me that I had followed the 'Camino antiguo'!
Anyway I lost so much time backtracking that I ended up in Alcalá only around 7 p.m.
From what I hear the signage has luckily improved since then.

I used the list of accommodations given me by the Amigos in Granada. I often stayed in polideportivos and only when no other possibility available in a hostal. No need to call ahead and usually picked up a key at the policía local.

Good luck. I really enjoyed the Mozárabe (although I didn't see or meet a pilgrim till Mérida) but was pleased to finally get out of the olive groves! From Córdoba on the scenery resembles that of the Vía de la Plata.

 

[peregrina2000]

Good to hear from you, Beatrice. Sorry I got up too late to help. But for future Mozárabe peregrinos, hope to clarify a bit. There has been some confusion about the route from Pinos Puente to Moclín. Joe and some others took a route that got them in that river crossing, I think some of the April mob took the direct shot road (GR-3408), and I took a totally different route, this one, I think. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-2-pinos-puente-moclin-6919742

I remember that in Pinos Puente at one point an arrow pointed me straight through town, but my GPS said turn right and go up to the top of town.

I think the olive grove mess LT got into was after Moclín, but that was not a problem for me and I didn't even have to pull out my GPS. So I am pretty sure marking has been improved in the years after LT walked.

BTW, Beatrice,
I think the need to call ahead ends in Granada. There's not the same tight knit cabal taking care of everything like there is between Almería and Granada.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Good to hear from you, Beatrice. Sorry I got up too late to help. But for future Mozárabe peregrinos, hope to clarify a bit. There has been some confusion about the route from Pinos Puente to Moclín. Joe and some others took a route that got them in that river crossing, I think some of the April mob took the direct shot road (GR-3408), and I took a totally different route, this one, I think. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-2-pinos-puente-moclin-6919742

I remember that in Pinos Puente at one point an arrow pointed me straight through town, but my GPS said turn right and go up to the top of town.

I think the olive grove mess LT got into was after Moclín, but that was not a problem for me and I didn't even have to pull out my GPS. So I am pretty sure marking has been improved in the years after LT walked.

BTW, Beatrice,
I think the need to call ahead ends in Granada. There's not the same tight knit cabal taking care of everything like there is between Almería and Granada.

Buen camino, Laurie

The arrows worked fine after leaving town and no water in the crossings. But first 5 km tarmac. I town I followed the arrows and just in the end arrows on two lampposts were blacked out. Got insecure, looked at the map in the guide and on the gps and saw that the track should pass a station or something. But just when I turned around a man on a balcony called me back and pointed at a sign on the wall. And I was finding the way again. At some point in the olive groves an arrow pointed straight and it looked totally walkable but I didn't see any more arrows up a small hill, turned back down again and saw that I should follow the fence to the left. Some arrows here and there are faint but after several caminos I know where to look for arrows and did see them. It was a lovely walk today and now I have the whole absolutely lovely CR up on the hill in Alcála la Real for my self. Tomorrow is a "rest day" only 26 to Alcaudete. Today Artafe that I passed yesterday was flooded as well as Alcaudete according to the news so it feels a little bit scary walking totally alone. But I missed the rain today or almost I had to sit under my umbrella at the gate of the CR to wait for the owner.

Thanks for info about the calling ahead. Makes it a little more flexibel. Evenemang though weekends can be filled up.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I can relate about the lack of spontaneity with booking ahead as I had to get my bag transported every morning, so planned every evening. Sometimes I had to walk further than I wanted to. My friends had true freedom by not booking ahead. We always got a bed but had to lower expectations on price & comfort. Exhaustion can play its role too in things so have you thought about having a really short day or hooking with someone for a day ?
Sending Love
Miki

Hooking up with someone is really hard here. I know that there is a French guy 2 stages behind me. He walks incredible slow and don't speak a word other than French. Have met 2 other French but they stop I Granada tomorrow. So I'm solo. I have a short day tomorrow only 26 then I might do a really long or 2 really really short. Depends on the weather. The stages here are quite long (for most people) and few possibilities in between and that makes it harder for me who love 30+ stages. So far it has been around 36-40 every day for a week now.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

We (4 Australian women) walked the Mozarabe April 2017. We never booked ahead and always found a bed or, at least, floor space. We got lost in the olive groves but managed to find our way to Santiago. Buen Camino, Beatrice.

Thanks. I haven't booked ahead more than a messages to Veronica to get albergue key box codes. If the police can hand out albergue keys at any time it won't be an issue. My problem is otherwise that I do long stages and arrive after office hours sometimes when town hall is closed. In this heat I have had more breaks along the way than usual.

 

[KinkyOne]

Ah, yes, those PM hours can really be a hassle. I remember that from the Levante calling Ayuntamiento and always they were expecting that I would come at the latest at 3PM. But sometimes I came at 6 or 7PM. That's why better have some Spanish to make some "private" arrangements with public staff. Many times they gave me their private cell numbers or they left the keys in the bar or a store.
But OTOH that's also the charm of less walked Caminos

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Started late today at 0740 arrived in Alcaudete now at 1250. Ocean of time to just relax today's. Checked in at Hildalgo. Let's see what this town has to offer.

 

[Former member 49149]

Started late today at 0740 arrived in Alcaudete now at 1250. Ocean of time to just relax today's. Checked in at Hildalgo. Let's see what this town has to offer.

Beatrice, I have not read everything by any means, but am scanning, and glad to see that you are managing. I imagine, from other posts of yours, that you are very capable. Buen camino!

 

[Deleted member 73526]

HI Beatrice -
I'm so happy to see that you're in touch with Veronica. The help from her and the Almeria Association is fantastic.
If you book ahead but feel like continuing to the next place, I think it is OK to call your host and make new arrangements. Any of the hosts that I met would understand.
Advance communication is particularly important for places like Peter's house in Alcaudete, because he is the only person there. (And he is one of the nicest hosts on the way).
I stopped making advance reservations after Baena because it started to feel unnecessary. I got along fine like that until almost the end of my journey (Mombuey, on the Sanabres. When I got there at 6pm without a reservation, the owner of the private albergue refused to open for me and I got help from a local to find the hospitalero of the public albergue who gave me the key).
From Baena, you might have more companions on the path, since the routes from Malaga, Jaen, and Almeria all merge together.
In Baena, I would avoid the Ruta del Califato, if possible. When I stayed, guests in the dorm room were unable to access the toilet during the night. If you do stay there, I would get a private room and make sure that you have access to a bathroom.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

HI Beatrice -
I'm so happy to see that you're in touch with Veronica. The help from her and the Almeria Association is fantastic.
If you book ahead but feel like continuing to the next place, I think it is OK to call your host and make new arrangements. Any of the hosts that I met would understand.
Advance communication is particularly important for places like Peter's house in Alcaudete, because he is the only person there. (And he is one of the nicest hosts on the way).
I stopped making advance reservations after Baena because it started to feel unnecessary. I got along fine like that until almost the end of my journey (Mombuey, on the Sanabres. When I got there at 6pm without a reservation, the owner of the private albergue refused to open for me and I got help from a local to find the hospitalero of the public albergue who gave me the key).
From Baena, you might have more companions on the path, since the routes from Malaga, Jaen, and Almeria all merge together.
In Baena, I would avoid the Ruta del Califato, if possible. When I stayed, guests in the dorm room were unable to access the toilet during the night. If you do stay there, I would get a private room and make sure that you have access to a bathroom.

Thanks. I tried to contact Peter today via chat message on WhatsApp early in the morning but no answer (had problem with the batteries in the phone today, it shut down during phonecalls but now fixed after 4 restarts and a proper charging). Ended up in Hieldago instead unfortunately as I would have love to stay with Peter after all praise of his place. Thank for the warning about Ruta del Califato. No bathroom during night sounds like a nightmare especially one week a month as a woman. It would be nice to see one or two other pilgrims now. Haven't seen any for a few days. But today I met a local woman originally from England so I had a chat with her in the bar. It seams like I still have a voice at least

Don't know if I stay in Barbados tomoor or do a monster stage. But the weather at the moment says, use one of your spare days and do Baena. Then I'm thinking of Baena - Espejo but a little bit scared of the key issue. Maybe a keybox there, that would be awesome.

 

[C clearly]

Hotel La Casa Grande in Baena is fabulous for the pilgrim rate of 20 Euros (or maybe it was 25).

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hotel La Casa Grande in Baena is fabulous for the pilgrim rate of 20 Euros (or maybe it was 25).

Thanks. On this camino money my last problem so 20 or 25 is fine.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Heat wave coming http://www.severe-weather.eu/mcd/portugal-and-spain-in-for-a-heat-wave-next-week/ I'm really thinking of doing an eject if it goes up to those temperatures or I have to do really short stages and stop somewhere on. The way to go home. No way I get to Santiago. Not reaching Santiago is fine but having to walk in darkness in the mornings and get to albergues around noon would probably drive me crazy.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

In Baena at 11. Found glutenfree bread in Mercadona so lunch in the park. Haven't decided if I should walk on or not. Under the umbrella the temperature at 10-11 was manageable but then it was below 30 now and hour later it is 31 and 35 is expected. But it is also just downhill 8 km and the rest mostly flat. Can't decide.

 

[Marbe2]

Do what is prudent in a heat wave! You are a very experienced walker!
To shorten or not to shorten..to leave early in the morning or? Take care of your health! Keep posting so we know you are OK! Be safe!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I stopped. I read Maggie's blog post saying 14 km on asphalt on next stage. Well we'll doesn't sound to fun in 35 degrees. So now I'm in the albergue and will sleep some and catch up on my diary.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Still alone in the albergue. It has been a really lonely Camino so far.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Baena - Castro del Rio is soul wrecking. So boring stretch almost all on asphalt. 7 km on stony track. Now I'll continue on to at least Espejo. Walked in darkness this morning as I knew it would be a boring walk.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

As I read this, I think back just 50 or 60 years ago. Across Rural Spain, at that time, there was some infrastructure for this pilgrimage, but no one was concerned as to, "calling ahead," reserving, "una cama," for the night. Personally, it is that experience that I relish during my walking. When I walk, there is no stress over where I will lay my head that night, no reservations. I know there will be some place to stretch out and sleep for a few hours. If I can find food and wash up a bit, that is a bonus.

Granted, I do carry what is needed to sleep outdoors but the weight that this adds is very acceptable to provide so much more freedom.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

As I read this, I think back just 50 or 60 years ago. Across Rural Spain, at that time, there was some infrastructure for this pilgrimage, but no one was concerned as to, "calling ahead," reserving, "una cama," for the night. Personally, it is that experience that I relish during my walking. When I walk, there is no stress over where I will lay my head that night, no reservations. I know there will be some place to stretch out and sleep for a few hours. If I can find food and wash up a bit, that is a bonus.

Granted, I do carry what is needed to sleep outdoors but the weight that this adds is very acceptable to provide so much more freedom.

I do agree with you. I try to have that feeling. I would probably be able to sleep outdoors unless it isn't pouring down and it is an option if I don't get a bed. I have also slept on floors where there has been completo everywhere. My backpack's back is a short detachable (shoulder to hip) sleeping pad. I have a back problem and an injured leg though so not to many nights like that But as today I had walked from Baena to Espejo 31 km and had at least 12 to Santa Cruz then it is a little comforting to know if there will be a bed available or not. If not I can decide to stay in Espejo (I was there at noon) or walk to Santa Cruz either directly and be able to take a shower or sit and wait for a whole day and walk late and sleep somewhere under an olive tree. So sometimes I call and check (especially when it is 35 degrees and no water available on the way).

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Short stage in the heat to Cordoba today. For once a big city I actually enjoyed. Must be the river. Usually I almost panicking when it comes to large cities. In Granada I sent text messages to my family "I want to come home" and the city never ended and there were cars and people everywhere. But here it is much calmer and I will try to enjoy the city even in +35 C. Tomorrow either a really short stage more of a morning stroll or a long walk. We will see. I did some pre sunset walking today as well. It is not bad if the route is simple and the ground isn't to hard to walk on. I like to stop and watch all those stars, turn of the head lamp and just listen to the sounds and that is also a way to enjoy. I guess this camino is more beautiful in spring. Now it is olive trees and 50 shades of brown. (Tried to attach a photo but my phone's files are too large for the forum ) You can see some at http://instagram.com/beastankar I use the gallery function so most post has several pics.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi @BeatriceKarjalainen
Looking at your Instagram pics ., the country does look brown. I was there in spring of 2012.
I hope you’re planning to see the ‘Mezquita ‘ while you are in Córdoba.
Enjoying your posts.
Buen Camino
Annie

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi @BeatriceKarjalainen
Looking at your Instagram pics ., the country does look brown. I was there in spring of 2012.
I hope you’re planning to see the ‘Mezquita ‘ while you are in Córdoba.
Enjoying your posts.
Buen Camino
Annie

Yes I'll. Having a snack in the hostel now and then off to there. Have to do some turist things

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Yes I'll. Having a snack in the hostel now and then off to there. Have to do some turist things

What a marvelous place it is. Took the audio guide and was amazed. Well spent time. And it was cool in there

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Two nights ago I had dinner at a restaurant in Baena. 2 dutch ladies sat on the table next to me. There were tourists in Andalucia. Guess who the first 2 personer i saw in Mezquita was. Sometimes the world is so small.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Cordoba to Cerro Muriano is really a gem. One of my favourites so far. But Cerro Muriano to Villaharta not as much. Why haven't they joined the Camino with GR-40 all the way to El Vache? Why is the Camino on a abandoned road (first with dirt on top and then on asphalt) km after km while GR is on a lovely dirt path running on the side and sometime a little bit further away. If I knew they would merge in El Vache I have stayed on the path. So if you walk here just ignore arrows pointing to the abandoned road.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree with you completely! I saw the dirt path and took it, wondering just what you were wondering. Actually, I saw someone walking over there, about 3 meters to my left, and I just popped over as soon as I could. Good advice for future Mozarabe pilgrims. Hope things are going better for you, BK!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I agree with you completely! I saw the dirt path and took it, wondering just what you were wondering. Actually, I saw someone walking over there, about 3 meters to my left, and I just popped over as soon as I could. Good advice for future Mozarabe pilgrims. Hope things are going better for you, BK!

Yes things are going quite fine. Still no pilgrims though so I miss someone to share experiences with in the end of the day. And it seams like the worst heat is over. Still starting a little bit earlier than I would like to but as today the stage is 36 km so I have to as nothing lays between me and next stop.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Albergue in Alcaracejos has 2 rooms with 3 beds each. A small lounge room with TV and sofas but no table. The kitchen has microwave and a fridge. A nice bathroom but lack a shower curtain. A small courtyard wirh clotheslines with a small shed for laundry with a washing machine. A table between the sofas and some chairs in the courtyard should have been nice. Linnen in the bed and a quilt is also provided so a nice place in the end of town. Now I'll go back into town to find me some food. Did 36 km on a tiny yoghurt a Solero icecream, a small peach juice and 50 g of dates. So a little bit hungry now.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I agree with you completely! I saw the dirt path and took it, wondering just what you were wondering. Actually, I saw someone walking over there, about 3 meters to my left, and I just popped over as soon as I could. Good advice for future Mozarabe pilgrims. Hope things are going better for you, BK!

They used really strong signalling with like 5-6 arrows go up on the road don't continue on path. Normally that is used when you are about to wander of in totally wrong direction further on if not following arrows so I didn't even try. The first half I was on my way but the dirt covered asphalt was ok and had some shade. The second half some shade would have been very nice. Maybe one should write to the association and ask them to mark both ways or change. In afternoon it is safer with shade.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

There are brochures from the local spa in the lounge. €14 for 30 minutes of massage. That would be like heaven right now. I suffered from a slipped disc just before leaving Sweden. And my back is still hard as a rock after the tension of that. Also had a lot of ichias pain today when going downward but that I'm so used to since I carried my first child 18 years ago, it comes and goes.

Anyone who stopped for a massage on the camino? I have never done it and have always said, when in Santiago... But when I'm in Santiago I forget.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Anyone who stopped for a massage on the camino? I have never done it and have always said, when in Santiago... But when I'm in Santiago I forget.

I would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.
On the other hand, I got an awesome shave at a barber shop in Santiago. It made me feel like a fresh prince. I'll give you the address if you ... Oh.

 

[KinkyOne]

I would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.
On the other hand, I got an awesome shave at a barber shop in Santiago. It made me feel like a fresh prince. I'll give you the address if you ... Oh.

You just made my evening @Raggy

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.
On the other hand, I got an awesome shave at a barber shop in Santiago. It made me feel like a fresh prince. I'll give you the address if you ... Oh.

I slept instead
Well a shave might be needed but I don't think the barber do arm pits?

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Just as I had taken of the bra under my tank top and thrown my self in the sofa last night it knocked on the door and a pigrim entered the albergue. He had walked 45 km that day and was pretty exhausted at 10 PM even after 1 hour in a bar. He walks without phone and other stuff like that. Cool guy.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Glad to hear that you had a good encounter with another pilgrim. You will be going through Hinojosa del Duque and Castuera soon. Quite a lot of roadside walking. At least the albergues are good and the track under your feet is better after Castuera.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Glad to hear that you had a good encounter with another pilgrim. You will be going through Hinojosa del Duque and Castuera soon. Quite a lot of roadside walking. At least the albergues are good and the track under your feet is better after Castuera.

I'm in Hinojosa del Duque since 11 today. Tomorrow a long stage, read it was 10-13 km on asphalt tomorrow depending on water level in the river. As there has been no water in rivers so far I think I opt for that instead of 3 km road walking. But will check with locals.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Beatrice, Hinojosa to Monterrubio, even with the asphalt, is a pretty stage, IMO. Nothing spectacular, but nice and quiet. Nice to have had company, if only briefly!

I stayed on the road because of what people told me in Hinojosa del Duque, and they were wrong, so I wouldn’t put too much faith in what you hear from the locals. I know that several people after me crossed with no problem. It is of course a risk, and the asphalt side of the road was not so bad (virtually no cars), so I guess unless you’re prepared for retracing your steps, the safer thing is to take the road. But I’m sure the off-road to the river is MUCH nicer! Good luck with this, let us know what you choose.

You probably know that you will have another water crossing issue, when you leave Moclín, and I was hoping that @BadPilgrim would post about his journey through Yelbes, but he left us all hanging at his last post. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ugh-yelbes-or-santa-amalia.55541/#post-640337

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi, Beatrice, Hinojosa to Monterrubio, even with the asphalt, is a pretty stage, IMO. Nothing spectacular, but nice and quiet. Nice to have had company, if only briefly!

I stayed on the road because of what people told me in Hinojosa del Duque, and they were wrong, so I wouldn’t put too much faith in what you hear from the locals. I know that several people after me crossed with no problem. It is of course a risk, and the asphalt side of the road was not so bad (virtually no cars), so I guess unless you’re prepared for retracing your steps, the safer thing is to take the road. But I’m sure the off-road to the river is MUCH nicer! Good luck with this, let us know what you choose.

You probably know that you will have another water crossing issue, when you leave Moclín, and I was hoping that @BadPilgrim would post about his journey through Yelbes, but he left us all hanging at his last post. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/after-medellín-through-yelbes-or-santa-amalia.55541/#post-640337

I think I take my chances with a 3 km backtracking tomorrow, will decide when I stand in the crossing . According to most sources there should be no problem unless there has been raining a lot.

Thanks for the heads up on the other part will write it down in my guide so I don't forget. Had no idea about it.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I didn't have to worry at all. Not a drop of water on the camino. It was beautiful walk to there and after. Just after the river crossing I found a perfect place for a snack stop. The road walking after was so boring. But at least I can walk fast on asphalt and be done with it.

I had a rather interesting morning though. I came to the first road where you walk just a few meters before directed across it and into a new track. There was an arrow on the ground pointing straight a head. I looked around and couldn't see anything else then the path I took and one in the wrong direction. I passed 2 electrical pylons with no arrows. Strange there use to be "yes you are on the right path"-arrows on those. But I was so sure I was on the right path. But after 700 meters from the crossing it didn't feel good that I hadn't seen one single arrow so I used the GPS-log and saw that I must have missed a turn (it looked like they had walked on the road though). I backtracked and just before I reached the road again I met the American pilgrim. He was also sure it was the path the arrow had pointed to. So I thought well well they have changed the route since the log was made. So I turned back again and started to walk. When I was at the same point where I had turned back earlier a car approached and they stopped. Told me I was on the wrong path. I said but what about the arrow? It points to a road pararell to the big road. Oh no I have to go back again. Explained that I already had been back once to see. I asked to see if it was possible to walk on the small paths I could see on my map to get to the camino but they said get into the car and we get you there. I thought they would drive me back to the road but instead they took 700 meters of bumpy ride on cow paths to the camino. So at the end today I got my km but some of them back and forth on the same road and I skipped a small part. The men had told me that the American pilgrim hadn't turned around even though he was told he was on the wrong path so if he continued I hope he found his way. I wish they have driven me back so I could see where that arrow was supposed to point. In the light of the full moon and my headlamp I really didn't see anything that looked like a path parrallel to the road. Well well...

 

[KinkyOne]

Well, well, walking in the night

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

It was 0720 so not exactly night. But sun not up yet. I could see quite well without headlamp but used it in crossings just to make sure. I have now talked to the American and he had turned around and had to search for that path even though he know that it should be there. So I guess it is a tiny tiny path just by the road. Well now coming pilgrims might be more alert and see a difference angle on that arrow than I and Paul did He said that when he got back he still couldn't see that the arrow pointed to that track. But there was probably some arrow further on you might see if you look.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

The albergue here in Monterrubio de la Serena is lovely. Spacious, clean and a full kitchen. Washingmashine, WiFi and air conditioning in the dormatory not in the small 2 bed room downstairs. But why a TV? I find TV to be a total unnecessary thing in albegues.

 

[LTfit]

Thanks for letting us tag along @BeatriceKarjalainen . My pictures of the Mozarabe of 4 years ago popped up on my Facebook thread today - sigh - and reminded me of the beauty! I also took the asphalt as the locals told me not to cross. Since I was alone, I followed their advice. I too was alone, all the way to Merida. This is definately character building.
Wish you well.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

The albergue here in Monterrubio de la Serena is lovely.

The albergue in Castuera is also superb, and the town is pleasant.
In Campanario, I stayed at the apartamento Malay. I didn't like it so much - impersonal and I was overcharged. I expect the Polideportivo is very basic but it will be cheap. Stop for a drink at Bar Estella in the centre of Campanario. One of the young owners is an amateur flamenco singer. He is very welcoming to pilgrims.

 

[peregrina2000]

The albergue in Castuera is also superb, and the town is pleasant.
In Campanario, I stayed at the apartamento Malay. I didn't like it so much - impersonal and I was overcharged. I expect the Polideportivo is very basic but it will be cheap. Stop for a drink at Bar Estella in the centre of Campanario. One of the young owners is an amateur flamenco singer. He is very welcoming to pilgrims.

Monterrubio to Campanario was one of my favorite days on this section of the Mozárabe, especially from Castuera to Campanario out in the fields. The wild flowers this spring were mind-boggling because of three months of rain! I too stayed in Campanario at the Malay. There is a very good restaurant across the street, but the pensión is NOT very nice. I actually had a room with no windows and had to leave the door open for some air. It wasn’t scary, but just very sterile and unfriendly. Others stayed a bit out of town in the albergue at the train station and thought it was much nicer.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

I may be jumping the gun here, but I'll offer some advice about the last stage before Merida. As you will know from other blogs, there is a very unpleasant stretch - 4km along the N-430 with a very narrow space between the traffic and steel barriers. Both the route through Santa Amalia and the route through Yelbes will take you along this busy road. Things get better once you reach Torrefresnada.

My description of the stage is here:
https://jonagrams.com/2018/08/22/day-31-28-oct-2017-somewhere-near-vereda-palomera-to-merida-31km/

If I were walking this route again, I would either take the off-Camino route that others have described (which requires a river crossing) or I would take a bus from Santa Amalia to Torrefresnada. (It leaves Santa Amalia at 8:00am and 10:35am on Mondays to Fridays; at 10:35 on Saturdays; and at 18:30 on Sundays). Here's the link to the timetable.
http://www.unionbusextremadura.com/pdf-unionbusextremadura/Badajoz - Villarta.pdf

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Monterrubio to Campanario was one of my favorite days on this section of the Mozárabe, especially from Castuera to Campanario out in the fields. The wild flowers this spring were mind-boggling because of three months of rain! I too stayed in Campanario at the Malay. There is a very good restaurant across the street, but the pensión is NOT very nice. I actually had a room with no windows and had to leave the door open for some air. It wasn’t scary, but just very sterile and unfriendly. Others stayed a bit out of town in the albergue at the train station and thought it was much nicer.

I'll walk to Campanario tomorrow. I guess my views will be a little bit different. It Will be yellow brown and brown and yellow. But it is nice anyway. I think I will check out the Albergue in the old railway station if my body doesn't say stop before that. As long as I have a bedbug free bed and a shower I don't require much more bit of course it is nice to get more but not for any price.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Others stayed a bit out of town in the albergue at the train station and thought it was much nicer.

That is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I may be jumping the gun here, but I'll offer some advice about the last stage before Merida. As you will know from other blogs, there is a very unpleasant stretch - 4km along the N-430 with a very narrow space between the traffic and steel barriers. Both the route through Santa Amalia and the route through Yelbes will take you along this busy road. Things get better once you reach Torrefresnada.

My description of the stage is here:
https://jonagrams.com/2018/08/22/day-31-28-oct-2017-somewhere-near-vereda-palomera-to-merida-31km/

If I were walking this route again, I would either take the off-Camino route that others have described (which requires a river crossing) or I would take a bus from Santa Amalia to Torrefresnada. (It leaves Santa Amalia at 8:00am and 10:35am on Mondays to Fridays; at 10:35 on Saturdays; and at 18:30 on Sundays). Here's the link to the timetable.
http://www.unionbusextremadura.com/pdf-unionbusextremadura/Badajoz - Villarta.pdf

Thanks. I don't like road walking in heavy traffic but I really don't like taking the bus either and I do not like river crossings (or more the fact of not knowing if one is able to cross or not) so that day will be a challenge any how I choose :-/

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Thanks

That is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.

Thanks. Will remember that. Will check map how far out. I'm that kind of person though that after a shower and 30 minutes rest I usally take a 2-3 km walk around the town I'm staining in but far out sounds like, eat before. Does anyone know if they have ha kitchen?

 

[peregrina2000]

I'll walk to Campanario tomorrow. I guess my views will be a little bit different. It Will be yellow brown and brown and yellow. But it is nice anyway. I think I will check out the Albergue in the old railway station if my body doesn't say stop before that. As long as I have a bedbug free bed and a shower I don't require much more bit of course it is nice to get more but not for any price.

That is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.

And even though the camino turns off the road at a point before you get to the train station/albergue, I believe that you don’t have to backtrack, but can join up with the camino a bit later on. Google maps puts the station at 2.4 km from town center. Almost totally flat.

And it’s a really really nice walk to Magacela. I stayed too long walking around the castle ruins in Magacela, and had a hot sun slog into Medellín, but thankfully, almost all off road. And Medellín, if you like castles and if you like Roman ruins (an excavated theater right below the castle walls) is a five star attraction. It is also the birthplace of Hernán Cortés, whose life the city still seems to want to celebrate, though he was a force for pure unmitigated evil in his day.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Monterrubio de la Serena till Castuera in 3 h (with 8 stops for peeing and 8 photo stops), speedy Gonzales (with a broken bladder) today apparently. Now rehydrating in a bar before entering the next 20.

 

[LTfit]

And it’s a really really nice walk to Magacela. I stayed too long walking around the castle ruins in Magacela, and had a hot sun slog into Medellín, but thankfully, almost all off road. And Medellín, if you like castles and if you like Roman ruins (an excavated theater right below the castle walls) is a five star attraction. It is also the birthplace of Hernán Cortés, whose life the city still seems to want to celebrate, though he was a force for pure unmitigated evil in his day.

If I recall a short step climb into Magacela. I agree, a nice little town.

Talking about the last stage, I walked Medellin to Merida,- from one Roman bridge to another! It was a long haul but I was looking forward to seeing pilgrims again in Merida. I even remember taking a selfie (something I never do) with a big smile on my face.

The amigos have done a great job marking the Camino into Merida, it's impossible to get lost! You arrive on the opposite end of town, that is from coming in from the Via de la Plata. I had done that twice before and so automatically crossed the Roman bridge to go to the municipal albergue only noticing at the other end that I had already been on the correct side and didn't need to cross the bridge!

p.s. hmm I do not remember walking along a narrow shoulder along a busy highway but what I do remember is a long stretch on an old highway which is located to the right of the busy highway. Not scenic but the side road was empty. Maybe something changed since 2014.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

The amigos have done a great job marking the Camino into Merida, it's impossible to get lost!

Actually, I managed to get lost. But I'm an over-achiever when it comes to doing the impossible like that.
Did you visit the elementary school on the way into Merida with MOZARABE in big letters on the wall? To my regret, I missed it because of my poor navigation. Pilgrims are welcome to say hello there.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

In Campanario in under 7 h 50 minutes with 1 h in Castuera and a minor stop att the turtle pond on the way here. Now 2 km to the albergue but first a stop at Dia. Today I'm a mean walking machine Had a lovely wind and just under 30 degrees perfect. One happy peregrina.

 

[LTfit]

Actually, I managed to get lost. But I'm an over-achiever when it comes to doing the impossible like that.
Did you visit the elementary school on the way into Merida with MOZARABE in big letters on the wall? To my regret, I missed it because of my poor navigation. Pilgrims are welcome to say hello there.

Actually that's why I made the comment. I remember seeing the wall and thinking to myself "how nice that they welcome pilgrims that way!" I didn't know that it was a school.

Sorry, too bad you got lost! If it is any consolation, I got lost pretty much every day during the first several days out of Granada. Each time I back tracked I found arrows out of sight behind overgrown bushes.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I went into town hall for a map and pilgrim info. I asked if I had to call Estacíon before going there. She said no they are open only Wednesday it is necessary to call in advance. So I went there. Could find how to get in. Felt stupid but called them. A tired lady answered and said. It is closed due to vacation. (Why not give that info to the town hall or put a sign on the gate?)

I had some options, go back up to town and do my first polideportivo or a pension that no one seams to like. Or hey go to next town. I was a mean walking machine today and the temperature wasn't terrible high and there was a wind. So I did. Now 54 km later I'm in a bed at the Casa Rural El Cercón de Candelo and will take a shower soon. Everyone has been talking about this days beautiful stages. Well let me say that they are very brown and yellow in the autumn. I so wish I was doing this in spring at the moment. But I don't find it awful either just a little bit the same all the time. Yellow, brown, brown, yellow

 

[peregrina2000]

p.s. hmm I do not remember walking along a narrow shoulder along a busy highway but what I do remember is a long stretch on an old highway which is located to the right of the busy highway. Not scenic but the side road was empty. Maybe something changed since 2014.

Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)

What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.

Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755

Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267

And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.

But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit I don’t see any way to avoid the N-430 without taking the river crossing from Yelbes, so I am stumped and have no idea how you did this.

I also walked Medellín to Mérida. I had planned to stop in San Pedro de Mérida, but when I got there, I decided to carry on after a long rest, a bathroom break in the ayuntamiento, and a refill of my water bottle from their cooler. From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)

Ah, the mysteries of the Mozárabe. Hope you are doing well, Beatrice, will you continue on from Mérida? Buen camino, Laurie

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)

What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.

Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755

Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267

And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.

But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit I don’t see any way to avoid the N-430 without taking the river crossing from Yelbes, so I am stumped and have no idea how you did this.

I also walked Medellín to Mérida. I had planned to stop in San Pedro de Mérida, but when I got there, I decided to carry on after a long rest, a bathroom break in the ayuntamiento, and a refill of my water bottle from their cooler. From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)

Ah, the mysteries of the Mozárabe. Hope you are doing well, Beatrice, will you continue on from Mérida? Buen camino, Laurie

Ok I'll get my self a Yelbes track then as they say the arrows are few on that route. I'll decide tomorrow.

According to one guide I have downloaded you need to walk 2 km over the bridge then there shall be a serviceroad to the left directly after the bridge if my translated text is right. But the guide might be really old.

Will look at the tracks you gave me. My phone is still behaving odd, turning off at 78 % battery so I do prefer to have arrows to follow for most of the walk. And if the river is uncrossable how much to I have to backtrack?

Yes I'll continue to Santiago (hopefully) have planned 40 days but have 1 week extra to use as well.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Stupid stupid stupid me. I took my small bag and walked the whole way almost to the restaurant on top of the town. With like one turn left I saw for the inner me how my money was still on my bed. Now back down again. Found 6 eggs in the refrigerator, I hope they are fresh. Will be my dinner.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok I'll get my self a Yelbes track then as they say the arrows are few on that route. I'll decide tomorrow.

According to one guide I have downloaded you need to walk 2 km over the bridge then there shall be a serviceroad to the left directly after the bridge if my translated text is right. But the guide might be really old.

Will look at the tracks you gave me. My phone is still behaving odd, turning off at 78 % battery so I do prefer to have arrows to follow for most of the walk. And if the river is uncrossable how much to I have to backtrack?

I don’t really know the distance, Beatrice, but if you look at the first set of wikiloc tracks I posted, you can see the river crossing. Then just follow the river up to the bridge on the N-430 and that would be where you would cross. If I were at my computer I could find out easily, but I am on my ipad and can’t figure it out. I can tell you that Yelbes to the river crossing is a bit more than 10, but you wouldn’t have to backtrack that whole way, just follow the river and cross it further north. This area is flat and absolutely NOTHING but agricultural tracks in all directions, so you shouldn’t have too much trouble following the river. I know that one peregrino found a tractor to take him across the river but I don’t think you can count on that! If you can find people up and about in Yelbes, you could ask about the river level. I left Medellín early and passed by a lot of ag workers coming into and through Yelbes in the early morning. No cafe or bar, though, if I remember right, at least nothing that was open.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755

The text to that track reads (Google translated) I advise you to go for santa amalia aunk is 5 kms longer. This variant of mine crosses the river and it gets wet. If the river brings a lot of water you can not pass "they crossed me on a tractor" you can go x yelbes and from yelbes throw everything by road or santa amalia. If you use my variant k is painted can also be k retro touch eder 12kms to reach the river.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada.

The routes joins at the bridge so how can one be more on the N-430?
At least the track I have comes down from Santa Amalia just before the bridge. Upper image, the other one is the Yelbes from wikiloc

 

[peregrina2000]

The routes joins at the bridge so how can interview be more on the N-430?
At least the track I have comes down from Santa Amalia just before the bridge. Upper image, the other one is the Yelbes from wikiloc View attachment 46824

I have no business giving anyone directions since I am so frequently lost, so pay no attention to me, Beatrice, I am sorry. I thought it looked like the route from Santa Amalia to the bridge was also on the highway. If the Santa Amalia route doesn’t hit the highway till the bridge, then they are the same distance on the highway, because one thing I know for sure is that Santa Amalia alternative meets the Yelbes alternative right at that bridge.

Looking at wikilocs, I see that some people walked on the highway from Santa Amalia to the bridge, which is where I got my idea, but I see that there are also tracks (which must be what you have, Beatrice) that do not hit the N-430 highway until the bridge. That is definitely the way to go, because the kms on the N-430 are hellacious.

Let us know how it goes for you tomorrow! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Deleted member 73526]

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option

From Santa Amalia, the route takes you along the east bank of the Rio Búrdalo and you join N-430 immediately before the bridge. I think the route from Yelbes joins N-430 at the same point.

It looks to me

The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.[/QUOTE]
I am in complete agreement that a bridge would be ideal. A pedestrian bridge might cost in excess of 200,000 Euros, but I think it would be worth raising the money to provide a safer route.

 

[C clearly]

I'm reading this with interest and awe, but sorry I can't help. I was on the bus from Medellin to Merida!

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Looking at the map, I estimate 8km walk from the ford across the river up to the N-430 bridge.
It's like a Dirty Harry movie - Do you feel lucky?

 

[Deleted member 83944]

Talking of Massages: something to look forward to just after Merida... www.aqualibera.com

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Looking at the map, I estimate 8km walk from the ford across the river up to the N-430 bridge.
It's like a Dirty Harry movie - Do you feel lucky?

I have been lucky regarding river crossings so far (mostly wading 2 km in Nacimiento would some consider unlucky). But I haven't decided yet. Will take my time in Medellin to go through options. It would be good to pass Medellin today go shorten tomorrow's stage but don't know of any place to stay in Yelbes. Will check that.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Wish I had access to that kind of satellite images they have in movies. Real time zoom in to the stepping stones

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Rocky road between La Haba and Don Benito. Tired feet.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Stopped in Medellin. Back and feet said no more now. They might be fine in an hour or so but no lovely wind today so I stay here.

 

[LTfit]

Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)

What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.

Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755

Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267

And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.

But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit
From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)

You just might be right Laurie! I can't verify as I don't use tracks. But even so, I don't recall having difficulty or a dangerous section from Medellín to San Pedro. Mysterious.

 

[LTfit]

From Santa Amalia, the route takes you along the east bank of the Rio Búrdalo and you join N-430 immediately before the bridge. I think the route from Yelbes joins N-430 at the same point.


I am in complete agreement that a bridge would be ideal. A pedestrian bridge might cost in excess of 200,000 Euros, but I think it would be worth raising the money to provide a safer route.

Fine to quote me but these aren't my posts, they're Laurie's. She is great investigator, I'm just a simple pilgrim

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Fine to quote me but these aren't my posts, they're Laurie's. She is great investigator, I'm just a simple pilgrim

I must have pressed the wrong button somewhere. The page is sometimes jumping around on my phone.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Visited the roman theatre and the castle. Interesting places. Now feet tired again. But hopefully they are fine again tomorrow. Have asked locals about the river but none here knows. It's a lot water in the river here at least. There are absolutely no farmers out on the fields. Haven't seen one for days. All crops are done and fields prepared for winter so a tractor over the river will probably not be an option. So road it is then if I don't hear anything else later on.

 

[KinkyOne]

Visited the roman theatre and the castle. Interesting places. Now feet tired again. But hopefully they are fine again tomorrow. Have asked locals about the river but none here knows. It's a lot water in the river here at least. There are absolutely no farmers out on the fields. Haven't seen one for days. All crops are done and fields prepared for winter so a tractor over the river will probably not be an option. So road it is then if I don't hear anything else later on.

Do you know if it is a constant flow river or just a rainy season river bed which might now be dry if in past days there were no rain?

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Fine to quote me but these aren't my posts, they're Laurie's. She is great investigator, I'm just a simple pilgrim

Sorry - fixed now.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Did Yelbes and the bridge. Early Sunday morning no cars. From bridge quite a lot of water in the river.
Now in the outskirts of Merida. Is this sign the last CM thing or will there be a stone or something? Where in that case?

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Found it
Camino Mozárabe done, tomorrow Via de la Plata so I guess new thread I'm VdlP forum.

 

[grayland]

Nicely done, Beatrice.

 

[Saunterr]

Thank you for your frequent posts that let us vicariously be with you! I especially love all the photos! Buen camino!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

THank you for your frequent posts that let us vicariously be with you! I especially love all the photos! Been camino!

Thanks. There is a lot more photos at http://instagram.com/beastankar and diary at http://beastankar blogspot.com (a week behind at the moment).

 

[VNwalking]

Buen onward camino, Beatrice.
Thank you for the sharing of this one, bravely walked...

 

[peregrina2000]

You just might be right Laurie! I can't verify as I don't use tracks. But even so, I don't recall having difficulty or a dangerous section from Medellín to San Pedro. Mysterious.

Reading @BeatriceKarjalainen’s account of her camino, my bet is that it was a Sunday. Could that possibly be right? Anyway, for future Mozárabe pilgrims, if there is anyway you can walk into Mérida on a Sunday, it would be highly preferable to the death-defying walk I did early in the morning after the bridge and before Torrefresnada.

And Beatrice, kudos to you. You now join several other forum members currently on the Vdlp, so keep your eyes out! Hope you enjoy the Vdlp now, there are some mighty fine Spanish cities in your future, even if you don’t like cities!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Reading @BeatriceKarjalainen’s account of her camino, my bet is that it was a Sunday. Could that possibly be right? Anyway, for future Mozárabe pilgrims, if there is anyway you can walk into Mérida on a Sunday, it would be highly preferable to the death-defying walk I did early in the morning after the bridge and before Torrefresnada.

And Beatrice, kudos to you. You now join several other forum members currently on the Vdlp, so keep your eyes out! Hope you enjoy the Vdlp now, there are some mighty fine Spanish cities in your future, even if you don’t like cities!

Buen camino, Laurie

Yes a Sunday morning. Perfect.
I'll try to enjoy the cities and look out for forum members.

 

[KinkyOne]

Visited the roman theatre and the castle. Interesting places. Now feet tired again. But hopefully they are fine again tomorrow. Have asked locals about the river but none here knows. It's a lot water in the river here at least. There are absolutely no farmers out on the fields. Haven't seen one for days. All crops are done and fields prepared for winter so a tractor over the river will probably not be an option. So road it is then if I don't hear anything else later on.

Hi, Beatrice,

I just looked at your Instagram photos for past few days and have one observation. The Moorish cistern in the castle in Medellin couldn't be a bomb shelter during WW2 because Spain was neutral and there were no battles or bombardments. But maybe it was a bomb shelter during SCW

Nice pics BTW!

Buen Camino!

 

[C clearly]

couldn't be a bomb shelter during WW2 because Spain was neutral and there were no battles or bombardments.

I seem to recall that the tour guide at the Almeria refuges said that the civil war shelters were maintained for a considerable time into WW2 in case they were needed. So, you could both be right

 

[KinkyOne]

I seem to recall that the tour guide at the Almeria refuges said that the civil war shelters were maintained for a considerable time into WW2 in case they were needed. So, you could both be right

That might be the case, yes. But it definitely wasn't actually used as bomb shelter in WW2, it just was
Although I can't see real reason why Franco's regime would be afraid of Germany invasion... But that's completely different debate and not for this forum.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi, Beatrice,

I just looked at your Instagram photos for past few days and have one observation. The Moorish cistern in the castle in Medellin couldn't be a bomb shelter during WW2 because Spain was neutral and there were no battles or bombardments. But maybe it was a bomb shelter during SCW

Nice pics BTW!

Buen Camino!

I might have remembered it wrong but I think I read WW2 and reacted to as I couldn't remember Spain being involved so you are probably right. I was tired and it was hot. Think I might have a photo of the sign somewhere on my f*cked up phone that has scrambled the order of all my photos when I moved them to the SD card.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)

What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.

Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755

Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267

And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240

It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.

But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit I don’t see any way to avoid the N-430 without taking the river crossing from Yelbes, so I am stumped and have no idea how you did this.

I also walked Medellín to Mérida. I had planned to stop in San Pedro de Mérida, but when I got there, I decided to carry on after a long rest, a bathroom break in the ayuntamiento, and a refill of my water bottle from their cooler. From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)

Ah, the mysteries of the Mozárabe. Hope you are doing well, Beatrice, will you continue on from Mérida? Buen camino, Laurie

Hi,

These are the things that puzzled me when I went through Yelbes this summer. I will write about it in "my" thread, but it will take som time to read through your updates and maps posted here first, to see if it can clear my mind. In short, think I had similar experiences as Beatrice and LtFit, and I couldn't understand what Laurie was talking about....! A mystery indeed. Only a Bad Pilgrim can solve this properly :OP

I will be back, girls!

/BP