The Primitivo

[Murtagh]

What should I enjoy and /or avoid on The Primitivo this September 2017?Murtagh

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I think you will enjoy the weather and the scenery; they should be great in September. Buen camino.

 

[Tincatinker]

Enjoy the huge variety of edible wild fungi that can be gathered from the woods along the way. Avoid all the ones that will kill you

This isn't a very serious question is it @Murtagh? If we knew what you enjoyed and or what you might seek to avoid then members would no doubt give generously of their experience and knowledge.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Just go, walk, stop and smell the flowers, pop your head in churches where you can. Visit the Ovideo and Lugo cathedrals.

 

[arch]

What should I enjoy and /or avoid on The Primitivo this September 2017?Murtagh

Go for a traditional meal at one of the restaurants on "Cider Alley" in Oviedo. Take a day off in Lugo. So interesting and much to see. Walk the wall!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Oh, oh, I have one!

The massive 7+ course lunch at Casa Pachon in Salas. Then a nap.

 

[alaskadiver]

Oh, oh, I have one!

The massive 7+ course lunch at Casa Pachon in Salas. Then a nap.

YES! Double recommend this. Don't expect to know what dish is coming up next. Just sit and enjoy it.

 

[Murtagh]

Oh, oh, I have one!

The massive 7+ course lunch at Casa Pachon in Salas. Then a nap.

Thank you.I am hungry now to start The Primitivo and reach Salas,Murtagh

 

[Murtagh]

Go for a traditional meal at one of the restaurants on "Cider Alley" in Oviedo. Take a day off in Lugo. So interesting and much to see. Walk the wall!

Thanks .Just what I was looking for - what is not in the guidebooks,Murtagh

 

[Murtagh]

Just go, walk, stop and smell the flowers, pop your head in churches where you can. Visit the Ovideo and Lugo cathedrals.

Thanks.That is the general plan,Murtagh

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thanks .Just what I was looking for - what is not in the guidebooks,Murtagh

Well that in particular is in every guidebook about Oviedo, and even if it's just a flyer. Very touristy area.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Gratuitous Casa Pachon photo (from a few years back).
My recommendation: We had a shortish day that finished in Campiello which meant we had plenty of time beforehand to detour to the ruins of the Obona Monastery, which is less than 1km off route (about 8km after Tineo). It's an amazingly atmospheric place and a pilgrim hospital was once sited there. It was a lovely day, so we stopped and had a picnic by the abandoned cloisters - one of my best memories of the Primitivo. But that was 2011 so others can say whether it's still possible to roam around there.

 

[alaskadiver]

Gratuitous Casa Pachon photo (from a few years back).
My recommendation: We had a shortish day that finished in Campiello which meant we had plenty of time beforehand to detour to the ruins of the Obona Monastery, which is less than 1km off route (about 8km after Tineo). It's an amazingly atmospheric place and a pilgrim hospital was once sited there. It was a lovely day, so we stopped and had a picnic by the abandoned cloisters - one of my best memories of the Primitivo. But that was 2011 so others can say whether it's still possible to roam around there.

Yes, it is still possible and there is a sign that guides you to it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Gratuitous Casa Pachon photo (from a few years back).
My recommendation: We had a shortish day that finished in Campiello which meant we had plenty of time beforehand to detour to the ruins of the Obona Monastery, which is less than 1km off route (about 8km after Tineo). It's an amazingly atmospheric place and a pilgrim hospital was once sited there. It was a lovely day, so we stopped and had a picnic by the abandoned cloisters - one of my best memories of the Primitivo. But that was 2011 so others can say whether it's still possible to roam around there.

I also took the detour and remember running into a villager out walking a dog. He told us that local lore has it that there is a maze of tunnels underneath the monastery. Also something about those who find and enter the tunnel and how they are condemned to walk through the tunnels for all eternity, or something like that.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Grandas de Salime, the museum is well worth a visit (closed Mondays).
Take time to stop and look at the many little ancient churches. Most have a grill in the door so that you can see in even though many are closed.

 

[laineylainey]

Murtagh, what date do you start the Primitivo in Sept?

 

[Theatregal]

At Castro, the museum and archeological site Castro de Chao Samartin, a few km past Grandas de Salime is really worth a visit.

 

[Elle Bieling]

Check out my blog if you like. It tells you everything I enjoyed and what not to miss! http://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-primitivo.html

 

[Murtagh]

Murtagh, what date do you start the Primitivo in Sept?

6th September

 

[Murtagh]

Yes, it is still possible and there is a sign that guides you to it.

Thanks.That sounds wonderful,Murtagh

 

[Tia Valeria]

At Castro, the museum and archeological site Castro de Chao Samartin, a few km past Grandas de Salime is really worth a visit.

We stayed in the albergue at Castro to visit the museum. Opens at 11.00 and 16.00, then the curator goes round to the castro itself at 12.00 and 17.00 approx. Unless the system has changed you need to plan to go to the museum first.

 

[Juanma]

Murtagh, I strongly recommend visiting Santa Eulalia de Boveda temlple, between Lugo and your next albergue; you have to know your way, but it is signed in some guides and webs. Very adviceable to visit. Be careful with opening days and hours, not to detour and then not be able to visit it!

 

[Tia Valeria]

When we visited Santa Eulalia we found that the little museum just down the road from the church was open even though the doors were closed. The door looks like a garage entrance! The curator came to unlock the church for us.
The opening times currently given on their website are:-

Horario de invierno (del 16 de septiembre al 15 de junio):
- De martes a viernes, de 8:00 a 15:00 horas.
- Sábados: de 10:00 a 14:00 horas.
- Domingos, lunes y festivos: cerrado.

Horario de verano (del 16 de junio al 15 de septiembre):
- De martes a viernes, de 8:30 a 14:30 horas.
- Sábados, de 10:00 a 14:00 horas.
- Domingos, lunes y festivos: cerrado.

 

[Murtagh]

Murtagh, I strongly recommend visiting Santa Eulalia de Boveda temlple, between Lugo and your next albergue; you have to know your way, but it is signed in some guides and webs. Very adviceable to visit. Be careful with opening days and hours, not to detour and then not be able to visit it!

Thank you so much - I will try this,Murtagh

 

[jannotgrim]

Just want to thank all who have written on this thread. Three of us are starting the Primitivo around August 25 and hope to savor, not rush, nor perform feats of fitness. This helps!