LIVE from the Camino This and that from VdlP from a long distance peregrina

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

So my first day on VdlP was over really early as I had an early start. Another pilgrim got up at 5, couldn't sleep again as 3 persons was snoring and it was about 35 degrees in the albergue. Got up 0520 out 0545 after breakfast. Easy walking out of town and a lovely walk. Stopped in Aljucén at 0845 for a tea and fixing a problem with my phone. I was there an hour. Then some really lovely walk. Oh that nature park!

Arrived in Alcuéscar at 13:20. Thought I should have at least 2 more km to go as the hospitaliero in Mérida said 16+22. Now in Casa Peregrina waiting for Día to open.

Have a question about Cáceres to Cañaveral if Embalse de Alcántara is closed do I have to carry water from Casar de Cáceres or is there somewhere to refill on the way? Or is it better to split 2 long days into 3 shorter maybe?
Alcuéscar to Valdesalor
Valdesalor to Casar de Cáceres
Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral

I have read heard all from 45 to 50 between Cáceres to Cañaveral. As you know I can do long distances. And there is a stop in Casar de Cáceres to stock up on things.

 

[notion900]

Have a look at my resource
I don't recall any place to get water, you could ask at the sheep farm but that's a bit early.
The owner of the Bar Majuca in Casar is a mine of information, he will know the latest on the albergue, or phone them up for you (and if you speak Spanish tell him that I did say a prayer for him in santiago and post on the forum - he gave me a free dinner). His English is poor, ask him "el albergue del embalse - está abierto?"
Be careful on this stage a German guy died there this summer. If you feel ill, you can give your location using the km markers on the road.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Have a look at my resource
I don't recall any place to get water, you could ask at the sheep farm but that's a bit early.
The owner of the Bar Majuca in Casar is a mine of information, he will know the latest on the albergue, or phone them up for you (and if you speak Spanish tell him that I did say a prayer for him in santiago and post on the forum - he gave me a free dinner). His English is poor, ask him "el albergue del embalse - está abierto?"
Be careful on this stage a German guy died there this summer. If you feel ill, you can give your location using the km markers on the road.

Thanks. I have a quite good Camino Spanish (and 2 year of school Spanish ) I'll probably call Embalse before I head out. Will try to remember to pop into the bar as well.

 

[notion900]

Embalse numbers
+34 927 108 300
+34 664 262 742

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Anyone with an update on the AVE works before Embalse? Is the footbridge done or is it still a diversion where the flagman think you should walk on the road?

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Beatrice, well, you are on your way! The Embalse should be open, but a whatsapp will confirm it. 34 664 26 27 42. I don't think there are any services at all between Casar de Cáceres and Cañaveral, with the exception of the albergue at the embalse.

There is some AVE detour after Cañaveral and before the Embalse but it is all well marked. I don't remember a flagman. There is also a bit of re-routing after the embalse and before Cañaveral, but it was all very well marked when I went through in June.

 

[Oppis]

Hi Beatrice. We walked after the embalse the mountain way without any problem. Nothing to do with the railway contruction. And the albergue in Canaveral is great.
Buen camino

 

[Kanga]

@BeatriceKarjalainen confirming there is no water after Casar if the Albergue on the Embalse is closed.

Also - we managed to get lost on the route between the Embalse and Cañaveral. One of the access tracks to the Ave works led us astray. We had to bush bash across country using gps to guide us back to the right track. So take care!

 

[C clearly]

Stay high on the ridge (on the right side) until you see arrows taking you left to Cañaveral.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm no help, but lurking and liking all that I read. What a community!
Buen onward VdlP Camino, Beatrice!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I'm so stupid. I totally missed that there is a private albergue here in Cáceres so I check into the not so nice municipal albergue. My room smells like someone has been smoking in it for 30 years and it is even €1 more than the private one (on the camino, this one off the camino). Absolutely no facilities at all except for a cafeteria. Grumpy hospitaliero not welcoming at all. I felt like I disturbed her when I arrived at 2.

But well I'll just sleep here 1 night and never come back again. I had a lovely walk today. And now I'm half way through my camino I think.

Will also thank you for your answers above. It's is such a relief to have you right in my pocket when I walk.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

@BeatriceKarjalainen confirming there is no water after Casar if the Albergue on the Embalse is closed.

Also - we managed to get lost on the route between the Embalse and Cañaveral. One of the access tracks to the Ave works led us astray. We had to bush bash across country using gps to guide us back to the right track. So take care!

When did you walk?

 

[Albertagirl]

@BeatriceKarjalainen
I had no problem at all walking between the Embalse and Canaveral last October. The route seemed quite direct and easy for me. I had stayed the night before in Casar de Caceres, as I had heard that the albergue at the Embalse was closed. I don't know what its current status is, but the most recent discussion on the forum is: Embalse de Alcántara open again!!. Their telephone number is 659 355 436 taken from Kelly's guide and I have not used it myself. Good luck. I have enjoyed reading your postings.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

@BeatriceKarjalainen
I had no problem at all walking between the Embalse and Canaveral last October. The route seemed quite direct and easy for me. I had stayed the night before in Casar de Caceres, as I had heard that the albergue at the Embalse was closed. I don't know what its current status is, but the most recent discussion on the forum is: Embalse de Alcántara open again!!. Their telephone number is 659 355 436 taken from Kelly's guide and I have not used it myself. Good luck. I have enjoyed reading your postings.

I have the same guide and I will give them a call. But the weather is reasonable at the moment so it shouldn't give me any problem. But you never know, a foot of a knee or something else can stop the journey prior to once planning. So it is good to know the options. Today's I almost continued on to Casar, 12 km more is just above 2 hours but I wanted some time to catch up on my diary instead. I still haven't figered out the distance for tomorrow, my guide says 43, a blog says 45 and the owner of Casa Peregrina said 50.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have the same guide and I will give them a call. But the weather is reasonable at the moment so it shouldn't give me any problem. But you never know, a foot of a knee or something else can stop the journey prior to once planning. So it is good to know the options. Today's I almost continued on to Casar, 12 km more is just above 2 hours but I wanted some time to catch up on my diary instead. I still haven't figered out the distance for tomorrow, my guide says 43, a blog says 45 and the owner of Casa Peregrina said 50.

I think the blog is the closest. I have always found Gronze’s distances to be the most accurate. They put Cáceres to the Embalse at 33.8 and Embalse to Cañaveral at 10.9.

I think there are two very wearing parts of the day you have in store. First, the kms out of Cáceres. The first 5 or 6 are on the side of a very busy local road between the two towns, at least at rush hour. There is finally a turn-off, though! And the second are the many kms meandering on the asphalt ringing the reservoir itself. You will be on a concrete path, at least, not like the first road bit. But from the Embalse to Cañaveral is very pleasant, so if you still have the stamina to continue, it will be all off road and fairly level after the first initial ascent of about 100 m.

Take care, Beatrice! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Deleted member 73526]

I'm so stupid. I totally missed that there is a private albergue here in Cáceres so I check into the not so nice municipal albergue.

Not such a bad mistake - I stayed at the Albergue Las Veletas, which I guess is the private one. I found it to be impersonal and not terribly clean.
Perhaps you can try some of the famous cheese (Torta del Casar) when you pass through Casar. It might cheer you up. You will have some asphalt walking on the way to Alcantara, but some beautiful views. The route after Alcantara is spectacular.
Embalse de la Alcantara is isolated but a good albergue - The hospitalero put my clothes in the wash, made me a good evening meal, and put out food for breakfast. If it is open, I recommend it. The albergue in Cañaveral also looks great and friendly. (But I only made a short detour into Cañaveral to shelter from some rainfall before walking on to Grimaldo - a very basic donativo albergue)

 

[Flem]

So my first day on VdlP was over really early as I had an early start. Another pilgrim got up at 5, couldn't sleep again as 3 persons was snoring and it was about 35 degrees in the albergue. Got up 0520 out 0545 after breakfast. Easy walking out of town and a lovely walk. Stopped in Aljucén at 0845 for a tea and fixing a problem with my phone. I was there an hour. Then some really lovely walk. Oh that nature park!
View attachment 46956
Arrived in Alcuéscar at 13:20. Thought I should have at least 2 more km to go as the hospitaliero in Mérida said 16+22. Now in Casa Peregrina waiting for Día to open.

Have a question about Cáceres to Cañaveral if Embalse de Alcántara is closed do I have to carry water from Casar de Cáceres or is there somewhere to refill on the way? Or is it better to split 2 long days into 3 shorter maybe?
Alcuéscar to Valdesalor
Valdesalor to Casar de Cáceres
Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral

I have read heard all from 45 to 50 between Cáceres to Cañaveral. As you know I can do long distances. And there is a stop in Casar de Cáceres to stock up on things.

Hi
Lovely to read about your pilgrimage and that you doing allright.
Please note that the albergue at Embalse Alcántara IS OPEN.
Was there just a week ago, and it has this Beautiful sun set. It is clean and all. The only thing they misses up there is that the roumers will go awsy and the pilgrims will arrive.
Happy trail

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Maybe time for the swap of sandals then. The Teva Tirra wears out after 360 km and get quite flat. So I have another pair in my backpack. A stop half ways tomorrow and walk the second half on clouds

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I talked to the owner of Casa Peregrina and she said always call. This is Spain people close for a day or two for vacation, funerals etc. So even if they are generally open it might be closed on a specific day. Like Casa Peregrina she had to go to Barcelona and I guess the house is closed those days.

Hi
Lovely to read about your pilgrimage and that you doing allright.
Please note that the albergue at Embalse Alcántara IS OPEN.
Was there just a week ago, and it has this Beautiful sun set. It is clean and all. The only thing they misses up there is that the roumers will go awsy and the pilgrims will arrive.
Happy trail

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Not such a bad mistake - I stayed at the Albergue Las Veletas, which I guess is the private one. I found it to be impersonal and not terribly clean.
Perhaps you can try some of the famous cheese (Torta del Casa) when you pass through Casar. It might cheer you up. You will have some asphalt walking on the way to Alcantara, but some beautiful views. The route after Alcantara is spectacular.
Embalse de la Alcantara is isolated but a good albergue - The hospitalero put my clothes in the wash, made me a good evening meal, and put out food for breakfast. If it is open, I recommend it. The albergue in Cañaveral also looks great and friendly. (But I only made a short detour into Cañaveral to shelter from some rainfall before walking on to Grimaldo - a very basic donativo albergue)

Ok so this albergue might not be worse then. My plan is Cañaveral but the body decides not the piece of paper in my pocket. I will probably start around 6-6:30 in the morning and that puts me at 8-8:30 in Casar guess not much open then. Not even if I start 7. I walk 6 km/h without stops (around 5 with calculating stops as well).

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Was there just a week ago

Where are you now? Walking "normal stages" or long like me? Any chance I catch up with you? When will you be in SdC (if that is your end point).

 

[notion900]

the many kms meandering on the asphalt ringing the reservoir itself

It's SO boring! The path is mainly a just few metres off the road, and yet goes up and down all the time when the road does not. You can walk on the road of course. Either is tedious I actually hate dams and reservoirs, they make me feel nauseous for some reason.

 

[C clearly]

that puts me at 8-8:30 in Casar guess not much open then.

There should be breakfast available in Casar by that time. If the restaurant Majuca isn't open, there's a bar just meters past the albergue on the left side of the main route. In the spring time it was open by about 7 a.m. (You need to walk quite a way into Casar to get to that point.) There was also a good open bar on the street that is parallel to the camino on the right side, around the same distance into town.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

There should be breakfast available in Casar by that time. If the restaurant Majuca isn't open, there's a bar just meters past the albergue on the left side of the main route. In the spring time it was open by about 7 a.m. (You need to walk quite a way into Casar to get to that point.) There was also a good open bar on the street that is parallel to the camino on the right side, around the same distance into town.

I'm gluten intolerant so breakfast in Spain in bars is a no can do but a cup of tea is always nice.
Or will they have the cheese?

 

[C clearly]

I'm gluten intolerant so breakfast in Spain in bars is a no can do

I had forgotten about that. The bar near the albergue was very much a typical Spanish bar. The one on the parallel street was more likely to have some choice, but I really don't know that the local cheese would be available . I remember a nice fruit and grocery store on a different street but it might not be open.

Good luck!

 

[Kanga]

When did you walk?

May this year.

 

[notion900]

If the speciality cheese shops are not open there is a supermarket but it's off the main street. They probably have the cheese there. It stinks like old socks!

 

[wayfarer]

I deleted and edited some posts referring to the death of a pilgrim. Please do not post second or third hand hearsay. Post only if you have first hand information.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I deleted and edited some posts referring to the death of a pilgrim. Please do not post second or third hand hearsay. Post only if you have first hand information.

Oki I get it. Sorry.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Made it, 45.2 km with the off-camino albergue and a small error in navigation at the bull ring. Lovely walk most of the time. Didn't mind the road walking by the Embalse, I had water to look at. If you are not going to stay or pay a visit to the albergue Embalse you can take the stairs up to the mountain directly after the bridge. Will save some steps first going up on the road and then back again up on that mountain (I did the road and then mountain but saw that the stairs have done the trick). Seeing a town for several km and not getting closer is a little bit frustrating but now I'm here. Time for a shower and food. Did this on 2 bananas, 50 g grissini and 40 almonds and 2 l water.

 

[Oppis]

I take my hat off. What a performsnce. Enjoy your dinner:

 

[sunshines]

Made it, 45.2 km with the off-camino albergue and a small error in navigation at the bull ring. Lovely walk most of the time. Didn't mind the road walking by the Embalse, I had water to look at. If you are not going to stay or pay a visit to the albergue Embalse you can take the stairs up to the mountain directly after the bridge. Will save some steps first going up on the road and then back again up on that mountain (I did the road and then mountain but saw that the stairs have done the trick). Seeing a toe for several km and not getting closer is a Little bit frustrating but now I'm here. Time for a shower and food. Did this on 2 bananas, 50 g grissini and 40 almonds and 2 l water. View attachment 47015

wow 45kms in 7 hours you ran!!!! that would take me 14 hours minimum you must have a giant stride

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

No no 08:48 hours from albergue to albergue with some 2-3 minutes stop and one for 10 minutes. Heavy backpack today so slow ;-)
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/3061549114?share_unique_id=6

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I take my hat off. What a performsnce. Enjoy your dinner:

Got a late lunch at 3:30 and then some Russian salad on rice cookies for dinner.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Just want to share my morning view after 12 km walking. Leaving Casar de Cásares. The photo doesn't give the full glory of this golden morning but at least a glimpse of it. It was magical.

 

[notion900]

Is the cuddly dog still at the sheep farm?

 

[Kiwi-family]

Beautiful @BeatriceKarjalainen ! Enjoy being able to walk far and fast. For the first time ever I am having a foot problem and limped after 25km yesterday and struggled 15 today(on the Madrid). I think I had expected to always be able to walk 35km without giving it a second thought!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Is the cuddly dog still at the sheep farm?

No dog at all this morning

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Beautiful @BeatriceKarjalainen ! Enjoy being able to walk far and fast. For the first time ever I am having a foot problem and limped after 25km yesterday and struggled 15 today(on the Madrid). I think I had expected to always be able to walk 35km without giving it a second thought!

You poor thing. Hope it gets better.

Met another Swede (will tell the full funny story another day) in Mérida and she is also used to 35+ but had injuried her knee and was limping short stages now.
I dread for that day to come for me as well one day but I guess that will be a challenge (of a different kind) as well.

 

[nycwalking]

No no 08:48 hours from albergue to albergue with some 2-3 minutes stop and one for 10 minutes. Heavy backpack today so slow ;-)
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/3061549114?share_unique_id=6

Was there a half-way point between albergues where a slower pilgrim could bunk for the night?

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Was there a half-way point between albergues where a slower pilgrim could bunk for the night?

There is an albergue at Casar de Caceres and at Embalse de Alcántara (for which it is advisable to call ahead to confirm it is open).

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @beatrice. Congratulations on your achievements. You are almost convincing me the return to Spain and walk the VDLP (starting in Seville maybe). I started from Merida back in 2013 and only made it as far as the Embalse before a foot injury forced me off. That 45km from Caceres is a real walk!!

 

[sunshines]

No no 08:48 hours from albergue to albergue with some 2-3 minutes stop and one for 10 minutes. Heavy backpack today so slow ;-)
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/3061549114?share_unique_id=6

Slow? wow I think I have just found my sherpa boys @cclearly et al

 

[sunshines]

Slow? wow I think I have just found my sherpa boys @cclearly et al

Slow? wow I think I have just found my sherpa boys @cclearly et al

do I have to pay you in beer money too

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hola @beatrice. Congratulations on your achievements. You are almost convincing me the return to Spain and walk the VDLP (starting in Seville maybe). I started from Merida back in 2013 and only made it as far as the Embalse before a foot injury forced me off. That 45km from Caceres is a real walk!!

Time to get back then. You can always start where you left of. A lovely walk today.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

do I have to pay you in beer money too

Hmm I don't drink alcohol at all.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Lovely lovely walk today to Galisteo. First walking on grass between trees and then 4 km before Calisteo the world got green!!! And flowers!!!

39 easy km today. The backpack was light and I stopped a lot for photography.

In Carcaboso now with a big bunch of pilgrims.

 

[C clearly]

Lovely lovely walk today to Galisteo

I love that part of the VDLP!

 

[C clearly]

wow I think I have just found my sherpa boys @cclearly et al

I think you've got that wrong! A 70-year-old woman who walks modest distances at a gentle pace with a carefully-reduced load, is not a candidate for sherpa duties!

 

[KinkyOne]

do I have to pay you in beer money too

@sunshines you are responding to your own posts, are you aware of that???

 

[sunshines]

@sunshines you are responding to your own posts, are you aware of that???

yes I know its because I forget to add the line so I just add it at the bottom so I think people know that Im not talking to myself

 

[sunshines]

I think you've got that wrong! A 70-year-old woman who walks modest distances at a gentle pace with a carefully-reduced load, is not a candidate for sherpa duties!

70 70 where did you get that idea from? a woman with a light load is that even possible???

 

[Kanga]

@Kiwi-family my sympathy. Last year on the VdlP I was similarly struck down by injury - something that I found totally unexpected. Never again will I be smug about walking!

I can report that I returned to the Via this year and finished it without too many problems. Although a snail and total wimp compared to Beatrice.

Whatever is causing your problem, I hope you get better soon.

 

[KinkyOne]

yes I know its because I forget to add the line so I just add it at the bottom so I think people know that Im not talking to myself

You can edit your initial post. Left under the post there are three options: Report, Edit, Delete.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

I expect you'll be passing through Baños de Montemayor soon - the last town in Extremadura. The hot springs there are open until 8pm. Worth a visit after a long walk (or during a long walk).
In Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (34km after Baños), you will find one of the most amazing albergues anywhere, run by Padre Blas and volunteers from all over the world. I will never forget the fireside dinner that I enjoyed there with the family of pilgrims and volunteers. Highly, highly recommended.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I expect you'll be passing through Baños de Montemayor soon - the last town in Extremadura. The hot springs there are open until 8pm. Worth a visit after a long walk (or during a long walk).
In Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (34km after Baños), you will find one of the most amazing albergues anywhere, run by Padre Blas and volunteers from all over the world. I will never forget the fireside dinner that I enjoyed there with the family of pilgrims and volunteers. Highly, highly recommended.

Thanks. That albergue is my place for sleep tomorrow. The hot springs sounds nice. Have to check when they open as I'll be there 2-2.5 h after start tomorrow. Yes I'm in Aldeanueva del Camino today after a 38.6 km walk.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

So another 38.6 km done today and what a walk. My gosh so beautiful and just a few km on road. Happy Béatrice today. Got compliment of my strength and speed by cyclists today. They passed me 5 km before Aldeanueva del Camino and when I had showered and got to the bar they sat there and had lunch. Surprised to see me already. I felt really strong today but now it is time to swap the sandals for the new pair, my heels were screaming to me when I washed my clothes.

A pilgrim that stayed at the same albergue as me last night said, the trick to avoid other pilgrims when walking is to start early and walk fast and stay on the road instead of a path sometimes. Well if you want to avoid me you have to start even earlier, walk faster or walk on the road, cought up with him 4 km before Aldeanueva, don't know how much earlier than me he started but at least 30 minutes as I didn't see him in the morning.

Started a little earlier than planned today, couldn't sleep. So headlamp on as the moon is just a quarter now. Moved slowly on uneven gravel road for an hour, enjoying the stars and morning sounds.
Tomorrow is a 43.2 or shorter if body says no but with new sandals I will fly on clouds I hope

 

[AlanSykes]

The "circuito romano" at the balneario of Baños de Montemayor is soooo relaxing and refreshing. ~2 hours, but well worth it. And a big pilgrim discount if you show your credencial.

 

[Kanga]

I loved, loved, loved the walk out of Baños. Enjoy.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

The "circuito romano" at the balneario of Baños de Montemayor is soooo relaxing and refreshing. ~2 hours, but well worth it. And a big pilgrim discount if you show your credencial.

Having a long walk today so I might not spend 2 h there. Will be there in about 2,5 h or so. Currently having breakfast.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I loved, loved, loved the walk out of Baños. Enjoy.

Oh sounds nice.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

After 43,87 km I reched the marvellous albergue in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. So nice i heard that in the room next to mine there is another lady from Sweden also from the North. I had aspectacular walk today. Lovely surroundings and path and the weather was perfect. Cool in the morning and I had shade almost the whole way when the sun finally started to heat up the world. Then when it almost go to hot some clouds came sailing in. Had a tea stop in Baños de Montemayor at 08:15.

There was a group of men on vespas passing me on the way. Honking there horns and waiting. Then I passed them when they had stopped for gas refill in Peñacaballera and they waved again. When I was about to cross over the bigger road for that lovely lovely loooong down they all came on the road honking and waving again. I started to laugh loud and then continued giggle of pure happiness the whole way down that lovely hill. So beautiful when the sun was shining through the trees. I met a lot of people on horses, one offered me to rent a horse. Wanted a stop in Calzada de Béjar but bar was closed. Had lunch in Valverde de Valdecasa.

A man offered me lift between Valverde de Valdecasa and Valdecasa said it was just road and boring but I declined and walked. I now know that the roadside markings are 500 per 1000 m Wanted a Coke but couldn't find the bar so I went back to the Camino and walked to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. Can't understand Kelly's note about conflicting arrows after 2 km, and not taking the road that goes straight to the left, that one was the one marked with arrows and official signs, the others had X. It was a nice walk with lovely views, cows and a "pilgrim tipi".

 

[Middo]

Is the cuddly dog still at the sheep farm?

I can confirm the cuddly dig is still at the sheep farm. A pilgrim in our "family" took lots of pictures of him on Thursday.

 

[notion900]

Love that dog.

 

[notion900]

I reched the marvellous albergue in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

Love that albergue and village, and the walk the next day! It was fiesta time last time I was there and I got embroiled in a foam party in the street

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

A good meal in the albergue last night.

Short day today only to Morille, my watch said 33 km. Lovely walk and I don't understand why everyone last night said 50/50 path and asphalt. There was a lovely grass path alongside the road the second half. Today I wore pants during the walk for the first time ever on my caminos. It was only 3C outside in the morning and later on 16-17 but with a really strong wind. The fleece was on the whole time and in the first 2 h I had my scarf around my head.

In Morille they now use the larger albegue and the key was in the other bar.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think that many people just stay on the road shoulder on the way into San Pedro de Rozados. The nice earthen path is just a few meters off the road, but maybe people don’t see it if no one else is walking.

I am glad you had a good experience at Fuenterroble. It sounds like the drunken belligerent homeless man whom Padre had taken in has found alternative lodging. The night I was there, he came into the bunk room at least four or five times, screaming thinks like “Fuera de aquí,” “Aquí mando yo.” He was right next to my bunk but I was too scared to move. Finally some male pilgrims confronted him and took him outside.

And I just have to share this small world moment — at the albergue, the hospitalera was a French woman who had been my hospitalera in Miraz and once in Rabanal, many many years ago. Crazy.

Enjoy Salamanca!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I think that many people just stay on the road shoulder on the way into San Pedro de Rozados. The nice earthen path is just a few meters off the road, but maybe people don’t see it if no one else is walking.
Enjoy Salamanca!

It is clearly waymarked though.

Regarding Salamanca I will probably not stay long, me and big cities are not compatible.

 

[sunshines]

A good meal in the albergue last night.

Short day today only to Morille, my watch said 33 km. Lovely walk and I don't understand why everyone last night said 50/50 path and asphalt. There was a lovely grass path alongside the road the second half. Today I wore pants during the walk for the first time ever on my caminos. It was only 3C outside in the morning and later on 16-17 but with a really strong wind. The fleece was on the whole time and in the first 2 h I had my scarf around my head.

In Morille they now use the larger albegue and the key was in the other bar.

View attachment 47233

ha ha you do look like a nomad in your scarf photo its nice when its fresh like that

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Regarding Salamanca I will probably not stay long, me and big cities are not compatible.

Salamanca was one of the highlights for me. I enjoyed just walking around and feasting on local pastries. The views from the top of the Cathedral were also great - but you know what suits you.
I guess your next stop might be Cubo del Tierra de Vino? A walk with a view of a highway and a prison ... not my favourite stage. But Albergue Torre de Sabre in Cubo made up for it - A home cooked meal with home grown vegetables. I felt that the owners really wanted to feed me well.

 

[Kanga]

At Salamanca we had what we all agreed were the best croissants we'd ever tasted - a little shop with an entrance down a step or two, near the cathedral, walking towards the plaza....

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Salamanca was one of the highlights for me. I enjoyed just walking around and feasting on local pastries. The views from the top of the Cathedral were also great - but you know what suits you.
I guess your next stop might be Cubo del Tierra de Vino? A walk with a view of a highway and a prison ... not my favourite stage. But Albergue Torre de Sabre in Cubo made up for it - A home cooked meal with home grown vegetables. I felt that the owners really wanted to feed me well.

Pastries are nice but as gluten intolerant I can't eat them. I came to the cathedral really early just at the same time a huge group with a guide arrived. The group took no interest in anything then them self I was pushed into a corner in the entrance as the guide gathered then for some info. I went out again. Will comback as a tourist another time. I just can't stand large group of people and stand still and wait with the backpack on. When I came out I tried to take some photos but another tour group spread out on the stairs to listen to their guide. I gave up. Wandered around the city for a while and bought some things I need now when it is cooler. Tried to find wool long johns in several sports stoors but ended up at H&M and bought a pair of fleece leggings.

Tomorrow I will walk to Villanueva de Caméan 13 km past Tierra de Vino. A 35 km stage for me.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

At Salamanca we had what we all agreed were the best croissants we'd ever tasted - a little shop with an entrance down a step or two, near the cathedral, walking towards the plaza....

Sounds lovely but I can't eat gluten so no crossiants for me. Had a plate of cheese and ham at the plaza. It was good.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Today was a day almost without photos. Said goodbye to my Swedish and German friends as they should walk to Salamanca and stay there. Time for new friends.

Had a lovely walk in the morning and in just a short while I was in Salamanca. Had a second breakfast and did some shopping. Bailed out from the cathedral due to large tour group. Had a rather nice walk to Calzada as it was like on CF, short distances between multiple villages. And all of a suddenly I was done for the day. Thought I found the municipal albergue but it was a private one just before the municipal (didn't see it in Kelly's book) €12. Really nice place. Spacious, cleen, well equipped kitchen and a small inner garden. La Casa de Molinero. Cooked dinner for my self but sat down at the table with one from Portugal and a French couple. The Portuguese knew Spanish and French and understood a lot English as well so he translated. Lovely meal and many laughs and we shared pictures from different caminos. Just as a night at the albegues should be.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

First half of yesterday along the motorway was a little bit uninspiring but a heavy fog rolled in and made the world a little bit dimmed and I liked it. The rest over open landscape was nice. Firsr half in full clothing 4 degrees. Second half in rolled up sleeves and skirt hooked up to short and 22 degrees. Perfect weather with a breeze.

Albergue Municipal in Villanueva de Caméan was quite dirty and a couple lived there as they mayor had let them stay while they were picking grapes. Felt like I was intruding on them. Went up to the convent ruins and crawled around and ate plums from the former garden. Had a nice meal in the bar with one Englishman and one Dutchman. Helped the Englishman to get Wikiloc and as thanks he paied my dinner. Slept quite bad so I left the Albergue 40 minutes before planned today (dark as the moon is new) but there was apparently a reason for that. I came to a sunflower field just as the sun came up and 2 minutes before it went into clouds. I got lovely photos. Now in a bar in Zamora before 19 km more.

Pics (and rest of the day) later as the network here won't upload them.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Have had network problems a couple of days but lovely walks. Now in Requejo de Sanabria after a 43 km walk yesterday I did 45. Feels good. But I'm a little bit confused about tomorrow leaving this town. There are arrows in town pointing one direction and arrows on the main road pointing to the road. The guide says that the described road has few arrows and might be effected by AVE and that road might be the best option to Padornelo 10 km away. So road or in the woods? Anyone that has walked here recently? The hospitaliera said road to some other pilgrims I think.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

The guide says that the described road has few arrows and might be effected by AVE and that road might be the best option to Padornelo 10 km away. So road or in the woods? Anyone that has walked here recently? The hospitaliera said road to some other pilgrims I think.

Yes, you're going to need to route around the quarries. With all the works going on, I think the situation can change from week to week. When I walked, I tried to stay off road as much as possible. I came across temporary arrows (composed of stones or sticks put on the path by other pilgrims), which guided me on the path where possible, and on the N525 where necessary.

[Perhaps you should open a new "LIVE" thread for Camino Sanabrés and ask if anyone has passed through recently]

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Yes, you're going to need to route around the quarries. With all the works going on, I think the situation can change from week to week. When I walked, I tried to stay off road as much as possible. I came across temporary arrows (composed of stones or sticks put on the path by other pilgrims), which guided me on the path where possible, and on the N525 where necessary.

[Perhaps you should open a new "LIVE" thread for Camino Sanabrés and ask if anyone has passed through recently]

Yes of course. Didn't think of my path change. Got some more info during dinner, road 5 km then follow arrows.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

There is no Sanabres forum so I continue here then. Have had more problem with the phone so I have limited my updates to a few places. But I'm currently having lunch in Xunqueria de Ambía on my way from Alberguería (nice albergue) to Ourense and have a question for tomorrow. Left or right route? Veronica from the Mozarábe associative says left is more beautiful and a stop at Casa César is a must. What is your opinion?

 

[Albertagirl]

There is no Sanabres forum so I continue here then. Have had more problem with the phone so I have limited my updates to a few places. But I'm currently having lunch in Xunqueria de Ambía on my way from Alberguería (nice albergue) to Ourense and have a question for tomorrow. Left or right route? Veronica from the Mozarábe associative says left is more beautiful and a stop at Casa César is a must. What is your opinion?

@BeatriceKarjalainen
I took the left route from Ourense to Cea (20 km), then the right route from Cea to Oseira (9 km), as I wanted to stay in the monastery at Oseira. As I have not taken the other routes, I cannot really state a preference, except that I appreciated the chance to stay in the refugio at Oseira, to tour the monastery with a monk and join them for evening prayer in the monastery. Given that you move much faster than I, you will probably consider the monastery at Oseira as too close for a night's stay, but you might want to look in if you go past.

 

[peregrina2000]

There is no Sanabres forum so I continue here then. Have had more problem with the phone so I have limited my updates to a few places. But I'm currently having lunch in Xunqueria de Ambía on my way from Alberguería (nice albergue) to Ourense and have a question for tomorrow. Left or right route? Veronica from the Mozarábe associative says left is more beautiful and a stop at Casa César is a must. What is your opinion?

Hi, Beatrice, I wonder if you found the left hand river route into Ourense, it avoids all that industrial slog on the way into town. As far as leaving, I always have taken the left hand route but that’s just because I never found the right hand route. The left hand route is quite pretty after that first steep uphill on the side of a little road. As far as Casa César, if you stop, let me know your reaction. I got a very weird vibe from him and was not comfortable there. I’m sure it’s very safe, no one has ever mentioned anything inappropriate. I know a few other forum members have felt the same way, but most share Verónica’s opinion. If you are a coffee drinker, his coffee is awful and there is a bar a few km further on. But that sounds ungrateful, and I do know that others think he is providing a kind service.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi, Beatrice, I wonder if you found the left hand river route into Ourense, it avoids all that industrial slog on the way into town. As far as leaving, I always have taken the left hand route but that’s just because I never found the right hand route. The left hand route is quite pretty after that first steep uphill on the side of a little road. As far as Casa César, if you stop, let me know your reaction. I got a very weird vibe from him and was not comfortable there. I’m sure it’s very safe, no one has ever mentioned anything inappropriate. I know a few other forum members have felt the same way, but most share Verónica’s opinion. If you are a coffee drinker, his coffee is awful and there is a bar a few km further on. But that sounds ungrateful, and I do know that others think he is providing a kind service.

I didn't see the river route but to be honest I just wanted to get to an albergue asap yesterday. I had a menu del día in Xunqueria de Ambía and 8 km later on the way to Ourense it all came up again, food poisoned. So I was totally out energy the last 10 km.

Took the left route and then the right route today.
Had a cup of tea at Casa César and he was very polite and told me stories about pilgrims in the pictures.

Wanted to see the monastery but I was there at 13:45 and they are closed between 12 and 15 :-/

Sleeping in Castro-Dozon tonight.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Snoozing under 2 blankets. To cold to get up. Absolutely no heating in this albergue in the dormitory.

 

[OzAnnie]

Feel your chill- any hot water in the shower ?
On one occasion (in an Hostal ) I’ve put the floor mat on the bed too!

Cheering you on
Annie

 

[VNwalking]

Food poisoning and cold...oy, that's a rough patch! I hope the day today is better, Beatrice!
Buen camino and ultreia, peregrina!

 

[The Little Flower]

Sorry to hear your under the weather. Hope you feel better soon B Been enjoying reading your posts. Keep up the fluids and stay warm. Take it easy x

 

[Waka]

Having a virus is my worst nightmare on the camino, especially if the road is less well travelled. I am enjoying your post and hope that you feel 100% very soon.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Oh yes. Sanabres has some chilly albergues.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Food poisoned and cold albergue was 2 different days. I kept warm under 2 blankets but didn't want to go up this morning. Yes the shower had almost hot water in Dozon. Today I had planned 40 but felt so strong and the legs took me to Ponte Ulla (48 km). Almost went 4 km more to the Xunta albergue but as there was an albergue here I stopped. But so disappointed as I got a single room. Would have loved to share the last night on Sanabres with others. Well well there are at least 2 more pilgrims here and they will also eat around 20:00.

 

[OzAnnie]

Gosh Beatrice , you’re a fantastic walker!!!!
Btw are you wearing trail runners in the cooler weather yet or still in your sandals?
Sounds perfect having others about to share a meal with on your last night before Santiago.
Buen Camino

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Gosh Beatrice , you’re a fantastic walker!!!!
Btw are you wearing trail runners in the cooler weather yet or still in your sandals?
Sounds perfect having others about to share a meal with on your last night before Santiago.
Buen Camino

I only brought sandals but with toe socks and wool socks it is not cold at all. I wear sandals at home until the snow comes

We had a nice chat over dinner. Lovely Spanish couple walking from A Gudiña.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Some people said I was crazy planning Almería to Santiago de Compostela in 39 days. They said my body would have problems, to warm, to People said I was crazy planning Almería to Santiago de Compostela in 39 days. They said my body would have problems, to warm, to rainy etc. I therefore added 8 extra days in the end to be sure. Day 10 I thought they might be right as I had to divide 2 days into 3 due to heat and around day 30 I had missed 12 km in the plan. But that was easy to distribute to coming 2 days making them over 40. And as it went so well I sat one night and replanned the rest.

They were right it was impossible in 39 days, I did it in 38 ;-)

Now lets walk to Fisterra as well. Mediterranean to Atlantic in 40 days.

 

[OzAnnie]

Congratulations and well walked Beatrice..
If you’ve still got 2 days up your sleeve ., keep walking to Finisterra as per your plan. !

I think the skirt looks very nice on you too.

Annie
Buen Camino

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Congratulations and well walked Beatrice..
If you’ve still got 2 days up your sleeve ., keep walking to Finisterra as per your plan. !

I think the skirt looks very nice on you too.

Annie
Buen Camino

I'm in Negreira at the moment
Love my Macabi skirt.

 

[laineylainey]

Beatrice, I have just caught up with your fantastic blog. I only did Mérida to Zamora and finished a couple of weeks ago. I loved reading your notes on the bit I walked, thank you, it brought back great memories, especially the day to El Embalse at Alcántara!