mike105
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Portuguese Coastal 2016
Via Francigena 2018
Madrid 2019
San Salvador 2019
Primitivo 2019
I've finished day 9 of The Portuguese Camino from Lisbon. What I didn't expect was the heat. Apparently it's not uncommon in this part of Portugal at this time of year. It's a dry heat but hitting the mid 30s Celsius has forced me to start as early as possible. I stayed near Oriente station in Lisbon, and this allowed me to use the train to do the part until Vila Franca de Xira. I broke that section into 3 days to make shorter days. I really enjoyed the walk especially along the waterfront around Oriente and after that beside a river. I stayed 2 nights in Vila Franca de Xira and again used the train. I walked from Vila Franca to Azambuja, took the train back and the next morning again took the train to Azambuja and did the 30 odd km to Santarem. It was very hot and the last 10 km offered no shade. It is hard to imagine this in August. I started to meet a few pilgrims and the route was flat with few hills. The uphill into Santarem after 28 hot kilometers was difficult. As usual a cold beer was the reward and I stayed in a hotel not far from the route. My travelling companion began to develop blisters and is still walking although painfully. Lots of grapes and oranges along the way. Again the heat is the really story, and it's only early May.
The route is well marked, although maps.me has been helpful to have. I pre book a few days ahead as I like to have a daily destination. I haven't used albergues yet mostly because I can't book them usually and at 63 aren't interested in wandering around looking for a bed if they're full. There has been no problems finding restaurants and cafes open along the way and haven't had to carry food. After Santarem Gronze has 2 more 30 odd km days and I broke that into roughly 3 20 km days. In fact since pre Santarem I've never done more than 25 km. With my age and in this heat it's enough.
I need to sleep now so I'll write more in a day or 2. I've already had a couple of those magical camino evenings sitting and eating and drinking with groups of pilgrims, so I'm highly enjoying the route.
The route is well marked, although maps.me has been helpful to have. I pre book a few days ahead as I like to have a daily destination. I haven't used albergues yet mostly because I can't book them usually and at 63 aren't interested in wandering around looking for a bed if they're full. There has been no problems finding restaurants and cafes open along the way and haven't had to carry food. After Santarem Gronze has 2 more 30 odd km days and I broke that into roughly 3 20 km days. In fact since pre Santarem I've never done more than 25 km. With my age and in this heat it's enough.
I need to sleep now so I'll write more in a day or 2. I've already had a couple of those magical camino evenings sitting and eating and drinking with groups of pilgrims, so I'm highly enjoying the route.