Hi Lexico.
9 months later, It is still difficult to explain what is the Camino...
I discovered the Camino in may 2018 when I made the Portugese way with an old friend living in Porto. It was a short 12 days hike, interesting but for me, a little bit “incomplete”. I had the feeling that I needed to walk several months, that
strange things would happen around one month traveling.
I started on 17 August 2019, north of Marseille in France, at the city of Arles, with the goal to reach Santiago without any specified time frame. The Voie d’Arles is a very low traffic route and during several days, I met just nobody – not a single pilgrim, even at night. Knowing that in advance, I was expecting a difficult psychological challenge, but it was a physical one… When I reached Somport pass (East of Roncevalles), one month later, I was handling a typical 35 to 40 km per day, almost effortlessly, leaving early, walking as long as I “physically” needed it; a kind of peaceful routine where each day is just an another day, a very simple and calm rhythm of daily needs to meet. SIMPLICITY is key on the Camino!
As you may know, many pilgrims stop at Somport - or start the "Aragon camino” there. On the 2nd day in Spain, I met a tall Spanish guy, with a very big and heavy backpack, brand new shoes, starting his first camino. "Hike your own hike " was my then philosophy. He was just one of the many pilgrims, I have met on the trail, with their own quests and challenges. I was halfway through and more and more focused on Santiago de Compostela; He was speaking Spanish only (I learned Spanish at school but he was speaking a very fast, with slang words and a terrible aragonese accent). Day after day, I saw him reaching the albergue, late in the afternoon, totally exhausted, with blisters, blue toenails.. but stubborn like a bull.. During dinner, the pilgrims were speaking in English, few words of Italian and German, but Spanish was not a shared language... Then the magic pop-up, we started day after day to exchange few sentences and one day, in the very early morning, he decided to follow me on the trail. As you have understood, I like to travel light and fast. I was sure he was not physically able to match my pace. I thought “see you later in the evening” but said nothing and left the Albergue quite fast as usual. It was a very cold and dark morning; Suddenly I discovered that he was behind me - without the help of any headlamp. I had no-choice. I can't leave him alone in the back-country. I remember Aragon was beautiful in this month of september and I was sure that I will reach Santiago. No real need to hurry but perhaps it was the perfect time to sit by the river and think about life. Since that day, we spent more time together, sometimes on the trail, sometimes at one of the bar along the camino, or later in the eveningat the albergue. Stage after stage, a Spanish speaking group took form with a veteran Argentinian guy or others from Madrid, sleeping at the same albergue, sharing food and feelings. SHARE and SOLIDARITY between pilgrims ! At Puente la Reina, on the
Camino frances, he was in a better shape and my Spanish has definitively improved. Finally, we reached Saria where his daughter (a good hiker by the way) joined us for the last 100 km (an important Spanish custom). At Santiago, his wife and a bunch of his friends who have traveled all thru Spain from Aragon just to welcome us on the cathedral forecourt. The emotion was really intense. Spirituality ?
I believe, he is now one of my best friend.