Via Francigena and Way of St Francis

Samos

Member
Dec 4, 2022
40
118
US
Time of past OR future Camino
22 Lisb to SdC
19, 14 Frances
18 St Martin
Hi all! We recently finished our pilgrimage from Milan to Rome and then Rome to Assisi.

After having done the CF twice, the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon, and the Way of St Martin across France I thought I would share some of the things I learned.

It was an amazing walk and a blessing to be able to do so. I enjoy solitude when walking, we didn't run in to very many pilgrims, except for the part from Lucca to Siena where we met quite a few nice people that were doing that stretch. We met a few others here and there. We started the end of August and finished the end of October. We did add an alternate route down the coast to Pisa and then back up to Lucca.

Italy is quite a bit more expensive, even staying in monasteries, etc. We stayed in a mix of monasteries, hotels, Airbnb's, because for 2 people many times the hotel/Airbnb was about the same price as in the hostel type accomodations, but many of the bnb's had equipped communal kitchens so you could make your own dinner. I think part of it is just prices have gone up everywhere, but also that these pilgrim routes are less travelled and go through some high tourist areas.

More planning is necessary especially with food/water. There were a lot of days where we carried food and water for the day, and also food for dinner and breakfast the next morning. we carried a lot of peanut butter or cashew butter sandwiches - gave us some protein, lightweight, and stayed good in the heat (when we started in Milan in August it was about 40 degrees Celsius) When we happened to walk past a grocery store, the pre-made salads with olives, cheese, etc, were such a treat, especially when it is hot out. We have always used grocery stores on our Camino's when possible, much cheaper and you can eat a little bit healthier :) of course the bars are always a good stop for a snack and a coffee.

Not many places to sit along the trails, we ended up just sitting on the trail many days. Some trails were overgrown, so the only place to take a rest was on the actual trail.

We took a couple of much needed rest days in Rome, we did get our testimonium at ST Peter's, but be prepared for a very high tourist concentration. They do have the separate entrance for pilgrims and you get your testimonium where the luggage hold area was. When we arrived in Assisi, they have a dedicated pilgrim office that was very welcoming.

The landscape is amazing, but the hills in Tuscany and to Assisi will give you a good workout. The people we met were wonderful and kind and the beauty and peacefulness in nature was refreshing.

Overall, another great Camino experience to refresh the mind, body, and soul.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Jul 23, 2014
460
1,460
Time of past OR future Camino
Podiensis, Portugues, Primitivo, 6 others
I admire how well you planned, how intrepid you were as well as your persistence. I lived in Rome for five years and would always host walkers if I heard they were coming. By the time they hit Rome, they were delighted that I knew all the good restaurants, cafes and gelato shops and special places to go not on any tourist itineraries.

I must be honest. I never thought of the Italians as really caring much about the pilgrimage. I was never tempted to try it. But I see you made it an unforgettable experience. I congratulate you and hope this inspires others to follow in your footsteps.
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.

Baliparadise

New Member
Jan 19, 2023
26
14
Bali
Time of past OR future Camino
Spring 2023
Hi all! We recently finished our pilgrimage from Milan to Rome and then Rome to Assisi.

After having done the CF twice, the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon, and the Way of St Martin across France I thought I would share some of the things I learned.

It was an amazing walk and a blessing to be able to do so. I enjoy solitude when walking, we didn't run in to very many pilgrims, except for the part from Lucca to Siena where we met quite a few nice people that were doing that stretch. We met a few others here and there. We started the end of August and finished the end of October. We did add an alternate route down the coast to Pisa and then back up to Lucca.

Italy is quite a bit more expensive, even staying in monasteries, etc. We stayed in a mix of monasteries, hotels, Airbnb's, because for 2 people many times the hotel/Airbnb was about the same price as in the hostel type accomodations, but many of the bnb's had equipped communal kitchens so you could make your own dinner. I think part of it is just prices have gone up everywhere, but also that these pilgrim routes are less travelled and go through some high tourist areas.

More planning is necessary especially with food/water. There were a lot of days where we carried food and water for the day, and also food for dinner and breakfast the next morning. we carried a lot of peanut butter or cashew butter sandwiches - gave us some protein, lightweight, and stayed good in the heat (when we started in Milan in August it was about 40 degrees Celsius) When we happened to walk past a grocery store, the pre-made salads with olives, cheese, etc, were such a treat, especially when it is hot out. We have always used grocery stores on our Camino's when possible, much cheaper and you can eat a little bit healthier :) of course the bars are always a good stop for a snack and a coffee.

Not many places to sit along the trails, we ended up just sitting on the trail many days. Some trails were overgrown, so the only place to take a rest was on the actual trail.

We took a couple of much needed rest days in Rome, we did get our testimonium at ST Peter's, but be prepared for a very high tourist concentration. They do have the separate entrance for pilgrims and you get your testimonium where the luggage hold area was. When we arrived in Assisi, they have a dedicated pilgrim office that was very welcoming.

The landscape is amazing, but the hills in Tuscany and to Assisi will give you a good workout. The people we met were wonderful and kind and the beauty and peacefulness in nature was refreshing.

Overall, another great Camino experience to refresh the mind, body, and soul.
Awesome. I am interested to visit many cathedrals, monasteries and the shrines.
Could you guide me or share your itinerary please ? I plan to begin on May 12, 2024.

Thank you very much !
 

Marge666

New Member
Jun 25, 2021
20
40
England
Time of past OR future Camino
2021
Hi all! We recently finished our pilgrimage from Milan to Rome and then Rome to Assisi.

After having done the CF twice, the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon, and the Way of St Martin across France I thought I would share some of the things I learned.

It was an amazing walk and a blessing to be able to do so. I enjoy solitude when walking, we didn't run in to very many pilgrims, except for the part from Lucca to Siena where we met quite a few nice people that were doing that stretch. We met a few others here and there. We started the end of August and finished the end of October. We did add an alternate route down the coast to Pisa and then back up to Lucca.

Italy is quite a bit more expensive, even staying in monasteries, etc. We stayed in a mix of monasteries, hotels, Airbnb's, because for 2 people many times the hotel/Airbnb was about the same price as in the hostel type accomodations, but many of the bnb's had equipped communal kitchens so you could make your own dinner. I think part of it is just prices have gone up everywhere, but also that these pilgrim routes are less travelled and go through some high tourist areas.

More planning is necessary especially with food/water. There were a lot of days where we carried food and water for the day, and also food for dinner and breakfast the next morning. we carried a lot of peanut butter or cashew butter sandwiches - gave us some protein, lightweight, and stayed good in the heat (when we started in Milan in August it was about 40 degrees Celsius) When we happened to walk past a grocery store, the pre-made salads with olives, cheese, etc, were such a treat, especially when it is hot out. We have always used grocery stores on our Camino's when possible, much cheaper and you can eat a little bit healthier :) of course the bars are always a good stop for a snack and a coffee.

Not many places to sit along the trails, we ended up just sitting on the trail many days. Some trails were overgrown, so the only place to take a rest was on the actual trail.

We took a couple of much needed rest days in Rome, we did get our testimonium at ST Peter's, but be prepared for a very high tourist concentration. They do have the separate entrance for pilgrims and you get your testimonium where the luggage hold area was. When we arrived in Assisi, they have a dedicated pilgrim office that was very welcoming.

The landscape is amazing, but the hills in Tuscany and to Assisi will give you a good workout. The people we met were wonderful and kind and the beauty and peacefulness in nature was refreshing.

Overall, another great Camino experience to refresh the mind, body, and soul.
We walked from Luca to Rome. In addition to what you’ve stated, the terrain was extremely hard going and with the lack of places to get water or food, we had to carry it all with us. 3L water each plus a full backpack was no joke in 31 degrees and 54% humidity!! Transferring backpacks was an absolute ripoff!! 20€ for one bag and the nearer to Rome it became 30€! Food and accommodation was really expensive and when we needed to get a taxi because we were stranded could cost 80 to 180€ for the same route! We felt we were constantly being ripped off and the Italians have certainly developed a look of distain for pilgrims.
When we finally reached Rome, we had to complete our own certificates and we weren’t even congratulated by the officials!!
Would never recommend this walk to anyone!! Back to Spain for me!! They know how to treat pilgrims!
 

Samos

Member
Dec 4, 2022
40
118
US
Time of past OR future Camino
22 Lisb to SdC
19, 14 Frances
18 St Martin
We walked from Luca to Rome. In addition to what you’ve stated, the terrain was extremely hard going and with the lack of places to get water or food, we had to carry it all with us. 3L water each plus a full backpack was no joke in 31 degrees and 54% humidity!! Transferring backpacks was an absolute ripoff!! 20€ for one bag and the nearer to Rome it became 30€! Food and accommodation was really expensive and when we needed to get a taxi because we were stranded could cost 80 to 180€ for the same route! We felt we were constantly being ripped off and the Italians have certainly developed a look of distain for pilgrims.
When we finally reached Rome, we had to complete our own certificates and we weren’t even congratulated by the officials!!
Would never recommend this walk to anyone!! Back to Spain for me!! They know how to treat pilgrims!
Hi Marge,

Sorry to hear you did not have a good experience. It is different arriving at the Vatican versus arriving in Santiago or Assisi. Spain and Portugal are certainly much cheaper.

I hope you continue to go on pilgrimages and find ones that work for you. One of the great things is that there are so many routes in Europe, that you have a lot of choices.
 
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Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Jan 18, 2015
7,520
33,173
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
Transferring backpacks was an absolute ripoff!! 20€ for one bag and the nearer to Rome it became 30€!
The Via Francigena is a far less travelled route than the Camino Frances or the Camino Portugues. Many - and probably most - of those who walk the VF carry their own packs. Many backpacks are actually designed with that idea in mind. I think it would be near impossible to offer luggage transport on the VF at the sort of prices paid on the main Spanish Camino routes simply because of economies of scale. Luggage transport is an optional commercial service which has to cover its costs and then provide a profit for the operators. Calling it a "ripoff" does not feel justified to me. The Camino Frances gives people a very distorted notion of what a pilgrimage route is or should be. It is an exception rather than the paradigm.
 
Last edited:

Simperegrina

Active Member
Sep 3, 2023
388
1,208
UK
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances 2023-24, Portugues Central, Invierno 2024
We walked from Luca to Rome. In addition to what you’ve stated, the terrain was extremely hard going and with the lack of places to get water or food, we had to carry it all with us. 3L water each plus a full backpack was no joke in 31 degrees and 54% humidity!! Transferring backpacks was an absolute ripoff!! 20€ for one bag and the nearer to Rome it became 30€! Food and accommodation was really expensive and when we needed to get a taxi because we were stranded could cost 80 to 180€ for the same route! We felt we were constantly being ripped off and the Italians have certainly developed a look of distain for pilgrims.
When we finally reached Rome, we had to complete our own certificates and we weren’t even congratulated by the officials!!
Would never recommend this walk to anyone!! Back to Spain for me!! They know how to treat pilgrims!
Blimey
 
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Corned Beef

Veteran Member
May 25, 2019
1,154
3,059
Near Canterbury
umap.openstreetmap.fr
Time of past OR future Camino
2024 Portuguese/ VF (South) / VF Grand St Bernard
We felt we were constantly being ripped off and the Italians have certainly developed a look of distain for pilgrims.

Master Gregory on a pilgrimage to Rome at the beginning of the 13th Century remarked "on the boundless cupidity of the Romans for whom no crime is too awful"

Seems they have been getting bad press for some time.
 

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