LIVE from the Camino Via Geneva and Le Puy en Velay

[federico]

I arrived in France June 9 and started walking right off the train in St-Julien-en-Genevois. It has been wonderful. There are Covid precautions indoors in stores etc. but overall it is relaxed. Just do whatever people want you to do.
I met very few walkers until Le Puy en Velay, then there are a lot of French walkers.
The gîtes are open and welcoming. I brought a tent and have stayed in nice campgrounds at least half the time. After Le Puy if you want to stay in gîtes you will have to reserve. It's busy and most are not filling every bed due to Covid.
I will continue to at least Cahors, walking the Rocamadour variant. If you have questions about the current conditions here please post and I will try to help.

 

[MM HILL]

Hope to walk this route someday (had walked from Le Puy to SJPDP a few years ago). Via Geneva is a challenging route, but I read that scenery is amazing - can’t beat the mountain scenes and solitude.

 

[Patrice C]

We (6 women) will be walking this way in September. We have been able to make reservations for most nights. Still looking for a place in Nasbinals on 10 September. Would like 2 or 3 rooms with own bathrooms and 4-6 beds if POSSIBLE. if you happen to have a recommendation it would be much appreciated. Merci.

 

[jouffroy47]

We (6 women) will be walking this way in September. We have been able to make reservations for most nights. Still looking for a place in Nasbinals on 10 September. Would like 2 or 3 rooms with own bathrooms and 4-6 beds if POSSIBLE. if you happen to have a recommendation it would be much appreciated. Merci.

Have you tried all the places on the site Chemin de Compostelle site http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/Selection/CartePuy05.html Le Relais d'Aubrac speaks English and has a number of rooms for groups.

 

[federico]

I camped in Nasbinals, but a friend stayed in Gîte le Sorbier and said it was friendly but basic, no evening meal offered.

 

[Marina Millar]

I camped in Nasbinals, but a friend stayed in Gîte le Sorbier and said it was friendly but basic, no evening meal offered.

We stayed at Gîte Sorbier in 2018, there was a very friendly pub just across the road and a wonderful restaurant that serves that delicious cheesy potato dish that is a speciality of the region - it’s spectacular!!

 

[Mournes]

We stayed at Gîte Sorbier in 2018, there was a very friendly pub just across the road and a wonderful restaurant that serves that delicious cheesy potato dish that is a speciality of the region - it’s spectacular!!

Aligot is the name of that speciality.

 

[nassim]

I arrived in France June 9 and started walking right off the train in St-Julien-en-Genevois. It has been wonderful. There are Covid precautions indoors in stores etc. but overall it is relaxed. Just do whatever people want you to do.
I met very few walkers until Le Puy en Velay, then there are a lot of French walkers.
The gîtes are open and welcoming. I brought a tent and have stayed in nice campgrounds at least half the time. After Le Puy if you want to stay in gîtes you will have to reserve. It's busy and most are not filling every bed due to Covid.
I will continue to at least Cahors, walking the Rocamadour variant. If you have questions about the current conditions here please post and I will try to help.

I would like to do this route next month (starting near Seysell). Is there somewhere I can find a list of campgrounds, or alternatively, do you have any recommendations? Thank you.

 

[federico]

I used a guide from the Association Rhône-Alps des Amis de Saint-Jacques that I found very reliable. It's available from their website. It covers the GR 65 to Le Puy en Velay. I was also able to make a small spreadsheet to use as a quick reference when planning stages and I'll attach that as well.
Here's a short list of campgrounds where I stayed:
Présilly, Le Terroir, 10 Euros, friendly, they have a website for more info, off GR
Frangy, Camping Celestin, 10 euros, basic, about 1 km off route
Serrières-en-Chautagne, located right in village next to a small lake (only 10 k after Seyssel which has a very nice campground on the Rhône), 10 euros.
Yenne, friendly campground just before the town on the route, 8.60 euros.
Saint Genix sur Guiers, beautiful campground, friendly, 10 euros.
Charavines, Camping Robert, 12 euros, nice setting next to the lake, but lock their gates at night and difficult to get an early start (had to climb out)
Walked with a friend and stayed in gîtes until Le Puy en Velay
Monistrol-d'Allier, municipal camping by the river, friendly and nice, 6 euros.
Le Sauvage, a gîte that allows camping for free, there's a restaurant that serves a pilgrim menu for 15 euros. Very good food.
Nasbinals, very nice municipal campground 1 km out of the village, 5.50 euros.
St Chèly d'Aubrac, very friendly and nice campground, 6.50 euros.
Conques, camping is at the bottom of the village next to the river, quite a trek up to the church and the shops, restaurants, etc. 13 euros
Livinhac-le-Haut, friendly and nice campground along the river, about ½ km off route, but a boulangerie along the way. 10 euros
Vers, beautiful municipal campground just below the village on the Lot river. 9 euros.
Cahors, 1 km out of the city but a very nice, friendly, well run campground. 10 euros.

 

[mspath]

federico,
Your lists of campgrounds are great ! Surely these will be very useful for many pilgrims who wish to sleep "under the stars". Thanks for sharing on the Forum

 

[nassim]

I used a guide from the Association Rhône-Alps des Amis de Saint-Jacques that I found very reliable. It's available from their website. It covers the GR 65 to Le Puy en Velay. I was also able to make a small spreadsheet to use as a quick reference when planning stages and I'll attach that as well.
Here's a short list of campgrounds where I stayed:
Présilly, Le Terroir, 10 Euros, friendly, they have a website for more info, off GR
Frangy, Camping Celestin, 10 euros, basic, about 1 km off route
Serrières-en-Chautagne, located right in village next to a small lake (only 10 k after Seyssel which has a very nice campground on the Rhône), 10 euros.
Yenne, friendly campground just before the town on the route, 8.60 euros.
Saint Genix sur Guiers, beautiful campground, friendly, 10 euros.
Charavines, Camping Robert, 12 euros, nice setting next to the lake, but lock their gates at night and difficult to get an early start (had to climb out)
Walked with a friend and stayed in gîtes until Le Puy en Velay
Monistrol-d'Allier, municipal camping by the river, friendly and nice, 6 euros.
Le Sauvage, a gîte that allows camping for free, there's a restaurant that serves a pilgrim menu for 15 euros. Very good food.
Nasbinals, very nice municipal campground 1 km out of the village, 5.50 euros.
St Chèly d'Aubrac, very friendly and nice campground, 6.50 euros.
Conques, camping is at the bottom of the village next to the river, quite a trek up to the church and the shops, restaurants, etc. 13 euros
Livinhac-le-Haut, friendly and nice campground along the river, about ½ km off route, but a boulangerie along the way. 10 euros
Vers, beautiful municipal campground just below the village on the Lot river. 9 euros.
Cahors, 1 km out of the city but a very nice, friendly, well run campground. 10 euros.

Thanks so much! This is very useful.

 

[Reija]

Dear Federico, thank you for the list! If you have your own tent with you, do you still have to call beforehand and reserve a place?

 

[good_old_shoes]

Hello @Reija . I'm not Federico, but from my experience I'd say it's not necessary to call beforehand if you bring your own tent. I never called but just "walked in" in may (Le Puy - St Jean, not sure about the part before). Most campsites were very empty and quiet, some almost deserted even though there are several holidays in may and many french go on vacation that month (but apparently they only go camping in july/august, which is camping high season). I'd maybe call the campsites in very touristy places during that time (like Conques or St. Cirq-Lapopie), but anyway - if they're full, you can still ask at the gîtes to put up your tent in the garden (information on gîtes that will allow that is included in the miam miam dodo guide book). The Le Puy is an absolute tent pilgrim paradise, you can sleep at an official campsite or in a gîte garden with hot shower included almost every night, no wild camping needed at all. And one of the best things about bringing a tent is exactly that you don't need to book ahead

 

[Reija]

Hi, thank you, @good_old_shoes, for your answer! You confirmed what I already thought but I just thought to ask Federico since he was on the was just recently. I had planned to walk that stretch in 2019 but suffered from torn meniscus and then... we all know what happened in 2020. Covid19 is another reason for bringing a tent. Finding a place fro the night seems to be harder and more expensive now. I am hoping and dreaming on late April, ealy May 2022.

 

[good_old_shoes]

True, it's always better to get information from someone who recently walked. Things can always change, especially in these times. Happy planning!

 

[federico]

True, it's always better to get information from someone who recently walked. Things can always change, especially in these times. Happy planning!

I agree with the advice from good_old_shoes. Even if campgrounds are quite full they can probably find a place for a tent, especially for a walker, that was my experience. Plus I found the camping culture quite friendly.

 

[Reija]

I agree with the advice from good_old_shoes. Even if campgrounds are quite full they can probably find a place for a tent, especially for a walker, that was my experience. Plus I found the camping culture quite friendly.

Thank you @federico and @good_old_shoes for the answers!

 

[Reija]

Not exactly live anymore. I arrived last Saturday. Here is what I learned.
- Things change rapidly, my original plan was to walk in 2019 and the "yellow guide book" from 2019 was totally outdated. Many private people who host pilgrims don't do it any more, some new people have stepped in, The prices are higher, many places (camp grounds, for example) have no special price for pilgrims. The best thing (at least for people who are not fluent in French) is to quickly get into a private home because usually the hosts are kind enough to help you to find the lodging for the following night.
- The route is super super beautiful! I have spent a fair amount of time in the woods around Europe but the amount of bugs, birds, plants along the route was more than I am used to! Fantastic!
- I was also super lonely. I hardly met other pilgrims. There were a few days I didn't really see anyone! On the last two or three days before Le Puy I started talking to cows, goats and birds. I even tried talking to butterflies but there were too many of those! I could not keep up.

 

[federico]

So glad you made it Reija! Thanks for posting your update.

 

[kelleymac]

Not exactly live anymore. I arrived last Saturday. Here is what I learned.
- Things change rapidly, my original plan was to walk in 2019 and the "yellow guide book" from 2019 was totally outdated. Many private people who host pilgrims don't do it any more, some new people have stepped in, The prices are higher, many places (camp grounds, for example) have no special price for pilgrims. The best thing (at least for people who are not fluent in French) is to quickly get into a private home because usually the hosts are kind enough to help you to find the lodging for the following night.
- The route is super super beautiful! I have spent a fair amount of time in the woods around Europe but the amount of bugs, birds, plants along the route was more than I am used to! Fantastic!
- I was also super lonely. I hardly met other pilgrims. There were a few days I didn't really see anyone! On the last two or three days before Le Puy I started talking to cows, goats and birds. I even tried talking to butterflies but there were too many of those! I could not keep up.

Thanks for posting this update. Did you find that there were more people starting in Le Puy? I walked from Le Puy to Conques in 2017 and have been thinking of doing it again. How are the gîtes and campsites? I stayed at one in Saugues that was great. I traveled in late September and the night was a bit cold, but there were hot showers and washing machines. And very helpful people.

 

[Reija]

Thanks for posting this update. Did you find that there were more people starting in Le Puy? I walked from Le Puy to Conques in 2017 and have been thinking of doing it again. How are the gîtes and campsites? I stayed at one in Saugues that was great. I traveled in late September and the night was a bit cold, but there were hot showers and washing machines. And very helpful people.

I stopped in Le Puy and hope to continue next summer. However, I was told repeatedly that things will change after Le Puy. The amount of pilgrims and the infrasturcture increases after Le Puy. Looking forward to it!