Walk-Bus-Walk?

[soulmoves]

Hi,
I will walk my first Camino this year! I have about 26-28 days, starting in late August. I know I can't do the entire Camino Frances this time, and that's ok. I do plan on having a few rest days, too, like I think it would be nice to spend a day in Leon, and maybe two in Santiago. I am also interested in seeing Finisterre (either by walking there, or taking the bus from Santiago.) I do want to really get a feeling for the way though, and for me that means allowing enough time/space to really sink in.

From what I've been reading, it sounds like 20km/day average might be a good place to start from. I guess that means I'd have 400 to 440km at the minimum for 20 to 22 days of walking. With all that said, where should I start??

So maybe assuming that I will take the bus to Finisterre, and thus spend the 4 days it would take to walk there earlier on the path, what are good options? Looking at the map, it sounds like starting in Burgos might be one possibility, that's 477km.

Or, how about starting in St. Jean, then walking to say Los Arcos (157km), then actually taking a bus to Leon, and then continuing to walk to Santiago from there (another 300km), so the total would be 457km? Has anybody ever done this before? I would miss the Meseta (which may actually be a good choice weather-wise in late August/early September?) Instead I would be able to enjoy the Pyrenees and parts of Rioja.

I don't know why, but for some reason this option feels a bit like "cheating", although it really isn't different from taking a bus to Burgos to start there, I suppose.) And yes, I know that it's my Camino (I actually feel like the journey has already started!) Again, my main objective here is not to see it all, or do it all, but to really sink into my experience. And so I am wondering if a walk-bus-walk approach would be too disruptive?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am wondering if a walk-bus-walk approach would be too disruptive?

I don't think so. You can take a bus at the end of the day, or the beginning, and turn a 20km day into a 50km day quite easily.

 

[soulmoves]

Thanks falcon. I meant it more in an overall journey kind of way. Like Burgos-Santiago is a single stretch of walk, and thus a continuous experience. Whereas St.Jean-Los Arcos <bus> Leon-Santiago would have two main segments, which I'm concerned might almost feel like two separate trips?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I'm concerned might almost feel like two separate trips

Well, don't let it!!

Among other things, you get attitude control on your camino. Use it.

 

[george.g]

This type of question crops up time and again, and the only answer is "whatever you think best" We all have different views about the camino all equally valid, some would say get the bus no problem. For myself I would never do anything other than walk, for me the physical and mental challenge is very important, and I find the idea that sections of the way should be bypassed (bybussed) because they are "boring" in some way collides with the idea of pilgrimage, but thats only my opinion, plus I can see where transport may have to be used, sickness, time constraints etc etc.
Interestingly just checked my credential it says "This credential is only for pilgrims on foot, bicycle or on horse" no mention of busses?
Regards
George

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The foot, bicycle or on horse is about the last qualifying kilometers, and the use of some albergues. Yes, no buses in the last 100km on foot if you want to qualify for the compostela.

Finally, one of the pages contains the following directions for use:

• This Credencial is only intended for use by those pilgrims who will walk, go on horseback or cycle and who desire to make the pilgrimage with a Christian motivation or at least in the spirit of searching. It is intended to identify the pilgrim. Therefore the issuing organisation must be a parish, a confraternity, Association of the Amigos of the Camino to Santiago and the like. The Credencial bestows no rights on the pilgrim. It has two practical purposes: admission to those albergues which offer Christian hospitality along the way; and to obtain the Compostela from the Cathedral in Santiago which certifies the pilgrimage has been completed.
• The Compostela is only issued to those who have made the pilgrimage with a Christian motivation: devotonis affectul vel voti pietatis causa – motivated by devotion, a vow or piety.
• The Compostela is also only issued to those who arrive at the Tomb of the Apostle having travelled on foot or on horseback the last 100kms, or 200kms by bicycle.
• The Pilgrim Credencial can only be issued by the Church through its own structures: Dioceses, parishes, confraternities or other bodies authorised by the Church. This is the only way the Credencial can be obtained from the S.A.M.I. Cathedral of Santiago (Jornadas sobre el Año Santo: noviembre 1993).
• Albergues provide simple accommodation. They do not receive grants for their upkeep and need to be sustained, cleaned and maintained. This is achieved through the contributions of pilgrims.
• Organised groups with a support vehicle or on bicycles are asked to find alternative accommodation from the pilgrim albergues.
• The bearer of the Credencial accepts these conditions.

 

[PANO]

My camino last September took me in exactly 30 days from Pamplona to Santiago, with 1 rest-day in Burgos and 2 in Leon. With a bit of planning and bus-rides to cut into Burgos, Santa Domingo, Leon, Astorga and a taxi between Acebo and Ponferrada, you should be able to manage the distance in 26 days. (I did mine at only a couple of months shy of 70 y.) You would be doing (almost) the entire CF skipping only those unsightly industrial outskirts, not really a miss.
In Santiago, three fellow Peregrinos and I then rented a small car (much cheaper than 4 bus-tickets) to comfortably drive to Muxia and Finisterre, having a leisurely lunch and ample sightseeing and to get back at 5pm.
PM me if you'd like to get my diary.

 

[tpmchugh]

I took a bus from Ponferrada to Villafranca as I had fallen behind schedule very badly. I also took the train into Leon on the advice of an experienced pilgrim who said the walk in was horrendous. What I did though was not to stop where the bus dropped me but tried to get to the next town before stopping eg Virgen de la Camino from Leon and Trabadelo from Villafranca. However, I plan to go back April 2015 with the objective of walking all the way this time. Of course, I am retired and have virtually no time constraints so do your camino whatever way you wish to do it. I seen one guy on a unicycle and another on roller blades literally skiing all the way Buen Camino

 

[soulmoves]

Thanks George. I am not really looking at bybussing "boring" sections, just trying to figure out where I should start walking, given the fact that I won't be able to do the entire CF from St. Jean to Santiago within the time constraints I have this time. Just like you, I do want to only walk the camino, but my question still is whether that means to start walking in Burgos, and then have a single continuous stretch, or if another option could be to walk two non-continuous segments. In the first case, I'd have to take a bus to Burgos, in the second case I'd have to bus from Los Arcos to Leon... As I said, this journey for me is not about trying to do it all, rather than envisioning an itinerary that will allow me to sink deeply into my experience of the Camino.

 

[george.g]

I would suggest completing the camino in stages, a section each year, of course thats easy for me to say as I'm retired so no work constraints and I can get to Spain from the UK for just a few pounds! everyone has different constraints. Must cost you a fortune to get to SJPdP
Falcon the credential states that the minimum distance traveled to be 100 kms on foot to be awarded a compostella, not that its OK to get the bus from SJPdP to
Sarria, course you've got the tee shirt.
Regards
George

 

[Tincatinker]

The Camino Frances does not start in St Jean Pied de Port, it is a staging point and border crossing. It is also the point along the Camino Frances that many published guide books and a heck of a lot of pilgrims choose to start. Spaniards, probably still the majority of pilgrims undertaking the Frances, tend to start from Pamplona or one of the Cathedral cities along the Way. If you are perturbed by the idea of bus travel find a starting point that is accessible for you and will give you a reasonable prospect of completing your pilgrimage to Santiago / Fisterra - Pamplona, Burgos, Leon are all "starting" points. Some would argue that all that matters is the destination and the intent, there are those that would moot that the essence of the Camino is the journey and therefore neither origin nor destination are that important.

You have said, others have said, and I will reiterate; it is your Camino. Where you start, how you travel, where you spend your nights - all these things are entirely up to you. If you wish to collect a Compostella from the pilgrims office then you must have walked, entirely, the last 100 kms from a point, on the principal route, a little after Sarria.

One more thought. 20k a day is a very sensible starting pace but I suspect you will find that as you become "Camino fit" you will be comfortably capable of greater distances in a day. you may wish to factor that into your planning.

Buen Camino

 

[Gil A]

Hi,
I will walk my first Camino this year! I have about 26-28 days, starting in late August. I know I can't do the entire Camino Frances this time, and that's ok. I do plan on having a few rest days, too, like I think it would be nice to spend a day in Leon, and maybe two in Santiago. I am also interested in seeing Finisterre (either by walking there, or taking the bus from Santiago.) I do want to really get a feeling for the way though, and for me that means allowing enough time/space to really sink in.

From what I've been reading, it sounds like 20km/day average might be a good place to start from. I guess that means I'd have 400 to 440km at the minimum for 20 to 22 days of walking. With all that said, where should I start??

So maybe assuming that I will take the bus to Finisterre, and thus spend the 4 days it would take to walk there earlier on the path, what are good options? Looking at the map, it sounds like starting in Burgos might be one possibility, that's 477km.

Or, how about starting in St. Jean, then walking to say Los Arcos (157km), then actually taking a bus to Leon, and then continuing to walk to Santiago from there (another 300km), so the total would be 457km? Has anybody ever done this before? I would miss the Meseta (which may actually be a good choice weather-wise in late August/early September?) Instead I would be able to enjoy the Pyrenees and parts of Rioja.

I don't know why, but for some reason this option feels a bit like "cheating", although it really isn't different from taking a bus to Burgos to start there, I suppose.) And yes, I know that it's my Camino (I actually feel like the journey has already started!) Again, my main objective here is not to see it all, or do it all, but to really sink into my experience. And so I am wondering if a walk-bus-walk approach would be too disruptive?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

I have just walked from Roncesvalles to Ponferrada and planning to go all the way to Santiago. If you are going to skip a part of the Camino I suggest you skip the meseta, Burgos to Leon. It is... uninteresting... Unending flats through farmer fields... Of course that is my personal opinion.

Buen Camino!

 

[soulmoves]

I see why they say it's a very personal experience... Sounds like George prefers single continuous walking stages (by the way, I personally don't care about the T-Shirt), whereas others are OK with some minimal inbetween busing to work around time constraints. Falcon says I can do anything with the right attitude, including at walk-bus-walk... And Tincatinker - thanks for the heads-up!

I understand that all of this is totally up to me, and that's part of the beauty of it! That said, since I haven't been on the Camino before, I was just wondering if somebody else has done something like I'm wondering about: has walked for 160km, then took a bus, then walked another 300km. I am just curious what potential advantages/disadvantages such an approach might have. Disadvantages I can think of is that the inbetween bus ride might interrupt the flow that one establishes after more than a week of walking, you'd leave any fellow travelers you met behind, etc.

And thanks for the great advice that my sensible 20km/day will likely increase, but even with 25km/day, I couldn't "do it all" in 26-28 days, and I'm not interested in racing it. I also really resonate with the way being the journey, in fact it occurred to me that I could also just start in St. Jean, and then see what happens, and if I don't make it to Santiago on this trip, so be it...

 

[george.g]

Exactly right Soulmoves "do it your way."

Regards
George

 

[Tincatinker]

Unending flats through farmer fields...

Or a fantastically rich landscape - a cold desert, enriched by bird-song. Horizons that stretch eye-balls used to a 30 inch range from office document to computer screen; an ancient holy landscape of temples, rock-mounds and mazes...

Just my personal Gil and absolutely no criticism of yours. In fact I find it a matter of joyous wonder that so many of us walk the Meseta and have such differing experiences.

 

[soulmoves]

Yes, thank you! I heard several different opinions about the Meseta before, and since I was recently back in Utah in the American West, I actually also have a renewed appreciation for big wide landscapes... that said, I am still hoping that somebody has done and can share about something like I'm wondering about: has walked for 160km, then took a bus, then walked another 300km, regardless of which exact landscape was skipped due to time constraints. Curious what potential advantages/disadvantages such an approach might have in general. Disadvantages I can think of is that the inbetween bus ride might interrupt the flow that one establishes after more than a week of walking, you'd leave any fellow travelers you met behind, etc. Or is this just a crazy idea, and I ought to really just pick a single point, and start walking...?

 

[domigee]

I don't think anyone can say what is the 'best' option before starting the camino.... It depends what you feel like on the journey and what your circumstances are.
Last year on the bus to Bayonne we met a pilgrim who quickly became part of our 'walking family', his intention had been to skip the meseta (time constraints) and carry on to Santiago. In the end he walked all the way with us to Leon, where we sadly said good-bye. But he (we all) had a wonderful time and no doubt meeting up again this year, wherever this shall be....

 

[Anne Kennett]

Hi

I will be commencing my Camino in May of this year. So therefore cant comment on what sections to miss. However I concur with comments from Tincatinker. St Jean Pied de Port is just a staging point. Many commence at other places only the way. Have you considered working back from Santiago, based on 20km per day and start where that takes you back to. Add two rest days at most. Then you dont need to even think about buses.

Buen camino

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am long past sneaking onto buses and trains. I can tell you, though, that there have been anywhere from a few to a dozen pilgrims taking transport whenever I have. Some look rather sheepish, like they have been caught with their hands in a cookie jar. I always wonder what they tell other pilgrims when the topic of "walking all the way" inevitably comes up. If they are in sufficient denial that they misrepresent what they do in order to increase the esteem they receive from others, it may be a good moment for reflection. If they are more "boy my blisters were killing me. I am glad I took the bus from Los Arcos," at least they have accepted their own limits of being human. (The bus stop at Los Arcos has always been jammed when I have been to it.) Buses, yes; braggadocio, no. You are one of 200,000 out of a world population over 7 billion, so you are outstanding by just being on the Camino. You are not required to stop being a human. Ride without guilt if you need to.

And the meseta is not that bad, but darn hot in the summer. It is not worth heat stroke or a heart attach, but it is a good walk. It is much better than the climb out of Portomarin in 100% humidity. (But don't skip that climb if you want to qualify for a compostela; it is within the 100km mark.)

 

[koilife]

I don't know why, but for some reason this option feels a bit like "cheating", although it really isn't different from taking a bus to Burgos to start there, I suppose.) And yes, I know that it's my Camino (I actually feel like the journey has already started!) Again, my main objective here is not to see it all, or do it all, but to really sink into my experience. And so I am wondering if a walk-bus-walk approach would be too disruptive?

My son lamed up with tendinitis in his knee, and we ended up busing ahead to stay on schedule. For me, it was an ego thing that I had to let go of if I was to make true progress. Far from breaking up some "internal flow", it allowed my flow to start.

20 days is more than enough to really get the feel of the camino, with or with bus assist. Personal opinion --- not sure about the weather at that time of year, but I would suggest you walk the Meseta for at least three or four days "to really sink into [your] experience."

 

[november_moon]

We have about 2 weeks to spend on the Camino in June. Due to work and other constraints, we can't take longer at this point in our lives. So the choice was to go for the amount of time we can or wait until we have more time - a time which of course may not ever come. We may find ourselves with time in the future, but not the physical fitness to do it or without the money to get to Spain. So we take the opportunities that we can when we can. 2 weeks on the Camino it will be. So that brought up the next question - walk for 2 weeks continuously from some point in the middle to Santiago or start farther east and walk in segments with bus transport in between? I think both choices have merit, but for us, we decided that walking continuously just felt like the better choice. We are starting in Leon and walking to Santiago

 

[CaminoWalks]

I have walked the camino every year sine 2002, twice from St Jean. Other times I have walked shorter stretches. I have 'cheated' by taking buses, trains and taxis due to time limits, blisters, boring stretches etc. I have never felt anything close to sheepish for doing so.
In my experience the biggest drawback by going ahead using transportation is that you will no lenger be part of the group of people you started out with - if that's important to you. May I suggest that you start close to the French border (St Jean or Roncesvalles), and keep track of how many days you have before you must be in Santiago. That way you can skip a few days of the mesetas by taking the train from Sahagun to Leon, buses into bigger towns etc. You will get to experience all the different type of stretches, and still you might see most of the people you started with or have met along the way, before leaving Santiago. Wing it as you go! As said before, it's your camino.
I'm going back next week to walk from Najera to Burgos. Wish it could be all the way to Santiago, but that's all I have time for now.

 

[wawpdx]

Soulmoves,
I am willing to give you my very strong opinion: don't break it up if you don't have to.

I didn't take a bus but I had the feeling of "starting over" a few times. When I arrived in Burgos and stayed in a small albergue near the cathedral, it was an absolute joy to recognize 12 of the 18 random pilgrims who also happened to be there that night. I didn't know all of them by name but I knew them because we had stayed in the same place some previous night or chatted along the way. As I walked around, I saw other people I recognized. But, lots of transitions happen in Burgos. People end their journey there, people stay a day or two or three longer or shorter or veer off to see some sight.

Inherently, people will come and go in your life but hopping a bus guarantees that you have lost any sense of continuity. I would suggest that you start in Burgos and keep walking. Angels live in Leon and it would be a great rest stop.

 

[fraluchi]

[...]Inherently, people will come and go in your life but hopping a bus guarantees that you have lost any sense of continuity. I would suggest that you start in Burgos and keep walking. Angels live in Leon and it would be a great rest stop.

Fully agreed with this statement You're young and with much energy so you should be able to easily walk a daily average of 25 kms. That also gives you the time to do some sightseeing on the way and enjoy a few days in Santiago at the end.

 

[OzAnnie]

Disadvantages I can think of is that the inbetween bus ride might interrupt the flow that one establishes after more than a week of walking, you'd leave any fellow travelers you met behind, etc. Or is this just a crazy idea, and I ought to really just pick a single point, and start walking...?

Hi soulmoves

I feel pretty sure your gut feeling is in agreement with 'fraluchi' s advice. Makes good sense as I feel from a few of your posts that you would rather not disconnect from the group you set out with. In some way their faces and conversation mark the beginning of our camino. (Like a tune or perfume bring back a memory of good times had ).
Although you will form parts of other family groups on the way, it's lovely to be feel somewhere close to those you started with. IMHO . Whatever you decide with be right.

Annie

 

[Gil A]

Soulmoves
Wow, you really started a discussion with strong opinions. This comes to prove that everyone Camino is different.
Because of a bad leg and age my wife and I walk slower than most so we see pilgrims go by. Often we meet someone for only a day or a moment but nevertheless it has been great.
At the end whatever you do it will be your own personal experience.
And by the way I still loved the mountains, coming down the Pyrenees and walking thru Roland's pass. The views on the way to the iron cross - Cruz de Ferro - and now on our way up to Ocebreiro. I will happily give part of the meseta for this wonderful experience.
Whatever you do I think it will be great.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

On my first camino I thought taking a bus was "cheating" and so walked every step.
That was fine - because I had plenty of time, and no real need for transport.
Then on my second camino I had blisters which needed hospital attention .... and it rained EVERY day. I started catching the occasional bus.
I asked myself - did I REALLY think that - in medieval times - if pilgrims were offered a lift from a passing horse-pulled cart, they would decline it, thinking it was "cheating"? Don't you believe it!
What is strange is that evem now I remember the paths I walked, but remember very few of the occasional bus journeys.
The 'camino' - for me - is the journey I walk, the footpaths through the woods, the old Roman bridges I walk over, and the meadows full of wild flowers: these are the times I cherish, and thank God for.
The bus journeys? They enabled me to reach those ancient ways, and, for that reason, I would happily consider doing it again ..... as I might next month on the Camino Ingles.
May God bless each one of us as we traverse our own caminos, and continue to give us joy together as we meet, and part, and meet again....

 

[madame_shepard]

I think whatever you decide to do will be the perfect choice! My husband can only tale 3 weeks vacation each year, so we walked from SJPP to Fromista during the 16 walking days last June. For us, this was a great choice. We cherish the friendships we made and have kept in touch with pilgrims from all over the world. As difficult as it was to say goodbye, we rejoiced with them upon seeing their pictures in Santiago. In June we are returning to "finish". We will start in Astorga, because that will give us time to go to Finisterra. Our choice feels right for us and your choice will be the right one for you. Buen Camino!

 

[soulmoves]

Thank you so much everybody for all your informative and very heartfelt responses. I very much appreciate the variety of opinions and experiences - just what I was hoping for - but even more so, the kindness and openness of each one of you. I am very much looking forward to meeting you on the path...in person, or in spirit! OzAnnie is right: my gut feeling is to make this a continuous journey, and many responses here (and reading a great thread elsewhere about the Meseta) have confirmed this for me. I am now thinking to start walking in either Granon or Burgos. I also don't have any judgement for any other options, like my initial walk-bus-walk wonderings, since I really get a feeling for what has been said by many of you: that this is a very individual journey. I truly believe that I can never fully know what somebody else's experience is, but I can respect every one for theirs, and celebrate the many ways in which we all walk our paths in this world, sharing one condition: human. Buen Camino!