We're off! Daily updates from the Camino VDLP, April 2016

[jprogers]

I thought Zamora was a wonderful place. I have slight PF at the moment but I am not walking a camino. I wish you luck with the rest of your camino and travel in Spain.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 22 - Rest day in Zamora.

Had a fun night last night, trying different tapas and drinking small glasses of beer in the tapas bars next to the hotel. The bar right opposite the front door has a hole-in-the-wall BBQ going inside and serves up brilliant kebabs; spicy was best! It was really busy everywhere last night.

The hotel was excellent and recommended. I slept really well till 10.00am and had breakfast in the hotel. As an experiment for today, I taped up just the right foot, the most painful one, as per the earlier photo using latex tape, to see if it helps.

The plan for today was a gentle stroll for an hour or two and then lots of sitting down under trees and in cafes. That's just what happened. I'm not really that interested in churches, castles etc anymore although to its credit, Zamora is one of the few places in Spain I've seen where they display English descriptions besides the Spanish! Well done the Zomoran tourist authorities. It's such a shame that most English translations were gibberish! Did no one think, 'I know, let's get an English person to check them before making up the displays.'

Evening after a siesta was spent trying out yet more tapas in yet more bars. Then home for an early night. I've had four complete days of rest so tomorrow will be interesting. At least the way to the next place follows the road so I can hitch or bus it if things get too tough. The weather is forecast to be around 27deg C and sunny. Interestingly this evening, the non-taped foot now hurts far more than the taped one so bought a 5m roll of tape from a chemist this evening and both will be taped up tomorrow morning!

I'm trying desperately to keep going. Even though the feet hurt, it's just so nice being in the warm and the sun all day. The food is great. The cafe culture is wonderful and only really let down by my miserable Spanish. Zamora is a really nice place for a few days; not exciting, but vibrant. I will miss it. Here's to tomorrow .....

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm not really that interested in churches, castles etc anymore although to its credit, Zamora is one of the few places in Spain I've seen where they display English descriptions besides the Spanish!

I'm sure you would change your attitude about churches if guided by our @peregrina2000 Laurie especially in Zamora

Anyway, Ultreia! Undermanager!!!

 

[Magwood]

Glad to hear the taping seems to help and that you have enjoyed your days of rest. And great good luck for continuing your walk - hope you make it - according to my GPS, 'only' 21 kms to Montamarta. Buen Camino!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 23 Zamora to Montamarta

Today was the day! Up at 6.30am, a shower and prepared the feet for battle! First, the Germalene went on between the toes. Then both little toes were wrapped in plaster, as they are always prone to nasty blisters. Next, the PF support strapping went on to both feet as per the photo. Then the inner anti-blister sock. Then the double skinned walking sock. Finally, the feet were slipped into the walking shoes, on top of the planar fasciitus soles. Can you believe that all that took about an hour!! No breakfast as just wasn’t hungary and I knew there would be a cafe 6 kms down the road in Roales. I only carried a litre of water today. That was just about right.

It was a really clear blue sky day but a bit nippy so the fleece was out. In fact, there was quite a cool wind all morning so walking conditions were perfect. It took about half an hour to get well and truly out of Zamora. The track on my phone said follow the main road but the arrows turned off left at a roundabout on the outskirts of Zamora, then right onto a dirt track parallel with the road. No problems all day with signs. Just follow the arrows.

The walking is a bit grubby until you get to Roales, a tiny village about 6kms from the centre of Zamora. The nice cafe, 30 metres to the right of the Camino on the main road, does all kinds of breakfasts. It was a bacon butty for me and a coffee, for a very reasonable 2 Euros.


Just past Roales, the countryside opens up and the track goes on forever. Now it gets really nice. It’s all gently rolling or flat land, perfect walking for my first day back after the enforced break. There’s a large bridge at one point, which is odd. The Camino takes you right just before it, then back so you climb the dirt track over the bridge, then you switch back again onto the Camino. Forget that! Just follow the well-walked trail under the bridge, turn left then right on the other side and you are back on the Camino and you’ve saved yourself 10 minutes. You’ll see the arrows and the track on the other side of the bridge to your left if you look hard enough.

I got to Montamarta about 1.30pm. For the albergue, just follow the metal albergue signs rather than the yellow arrows as you walk into the village on the outskirts. It’s actually in a building just on the other side of the busy main road you can see and hear to the right.

The albergue is impressive, clean and a very recommended place to stay. It has 20 bunks with sheets and blankets, a men’s and ladie’s shower and toilet room, a washing machine room, a large dining room and a large kitchen with fridge, cooker and microwave. The large grounds have tables to sit at and washing lines to dry clothes. The main road runs outside but that’s no great problem. There’s a supermarket in the village (closed between 2.00pm and 4.00pm from memory) and a few bars apparently. It’s 5 Euros a night. Definitely stay here for a nice first stop out of Zamora. It’s disadvantages are that it is on it’s own, by a busy road and a 10 minute walk from the supermarket and cafes. That might be spooky if you are on your own. The building also amplifies sound - if someone e.g. decides to speak on their phone and not go outside, it is loud beyond belief and echos throughout the whole building. There is no wifi.

By the time I had shower, repaired my belt, made the bed up, washed out the socks and shirt, went to the supermarket and had lunch, it was 3.30pm. So the rest of the day was chilling time!

And the feet? No problemo! A little tired, perhaps, and a dull ache underfoot, but I walked 18kms without a problem and when I stopped walking, just did my usual stretching exercises for 15 minutes and all was well. I do have a blister underfoot but that’s luxury! Tomorrow will be a bit longer, so resting up for the rest of the day is good. Not sure whether to go direct to Tabara along the road and save a day or go via Granja. I guess a decision will have to be made tomorrow. Feeling hopeful that the worst is now over and the pain is manageable but only time will tell ….

 

[Undermanager]

Day 24 Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela

After a fun night playing cards, eating and drinking with the other three in the Albergue, I got up later than usual. I went through the same foot ritual as the day before and left just before 8.00am after breakfast.

From the albergue, you just walk straight down the road and out the other end to pick up the Camino. You then follow the track for about 9kms next to or very close to main roads and motorways, before turning off into fantastic countryside. You go past a massive ruined castle and are given great views over a river.

At 12 kms you pass through a little village. I didn’t see the name but a bar and albergue were advertised 400m off to one side. I didn’t investigate but just walked on through, stopping briefly to slurp at the working water fountain.

3kms further on from this village is Riego del Camino with a main road through it. A small, sad and grim bar is on the main road, which seemed to serve beer, cheese and ham sandwiches and little else. There were ‘Don’t do this that and the other’ signs everywhere on the walls. It’s a place to stop to see how low bars can go.

As you walk along the road, there are some confusing yellow and white arrows directing you left. Ignore them all and just follow the road. 100m out of the village is a roundabout. Take the dirt track on the left and you’ll pick up the Camino after 30m. You’ll see the Camino sign.

My GPS said I’d walked 15kms so had 9kms to go. I had in my head that it was 24kms today. I started to frog march it abd 6 kms later, I was in the El Bar (which has WiFi) getting my Credential stamped for the albergue - a total for today of only 21kms, not 24kms.

The albergue has 10 beds, a couple of toilets and showers and a place to rinse socks - nothing else. The feet feel brilliant after today so am beginning to be very hopeful now, although I seem to have picked up a bit of nappy rash that will need bandaging over! Really starting to feel that buzz you get when walking long distances. Looking forward to tomorrow.

I think getting to Santiago from here with only 14 walking days will be pushing it now. Suggestions for skipping a few not-so-interesting stages and using a bus or train?

 

[KinkyOne]

3kms further on from this village is Riego del Camino with a main road through it. A small, sad and grim bar is on the main road, which seemed to serve beer, cheese and ham sandwiches and little else. There were ‘Don’t do this that and the other’ signs everywhere on the walls. It’s a place to stop to see how low bars can go.

Couldn't agree more but still it was kind of fun experiencing this

 

[Undermanager]

Day 25 Granja to Tabara

The albergue last night was very squeaky! Everything squeeked so it was difficult to sleep. Mind you, the food at El Bar, where you get your credential stamped, was excellent and recommended. The beer was cold and welcome, too.

This is a glorious stage, not to be missed. I set off at 7.00am as the weather forecast was hot and sunny, and so it turned out to be. The walk to the bridge over the huge River Esla took a couple of hours through rolling countryside and a great sunrise.

You cross the bridge, taking a few photos, then climb over the barrier at the far side on the left and follow the river bank along a narrow path up to a wonderful viewing point. In fine weather, the path is fine although if it were pouring down, you might consider the alternative road route at the bridge instead, as you have to scramble over rocks on the path.

When you’ve taken your fill of the views, you turn inland, past an archeological dig, through wooded sandy paths, then open paths past small vinyards and open countryside, until you get to Faramontanos de Tabara. The approach to Faramontanos starts to get really hot so make sure you have a hat and enough water. There is a supermarket and bakery but they are tucked away so ask. The bars are obvious. There is a little park at the very edge of Faramontanos, just before where the Camino dirt track starts. It has benches, shade and a working water fountain. I bought lunch in the supermarket and had lunch there.

The last 6kms to Tabara was very hot. You must cross over a huge bridge after about 3 kms, that crosses over a high speed train line; the Camino signs are poor around here. Past the bridge, the dirt track bends round to the left after a few hundred metres, but you need to come off it and carry straight on forward. 10 minutes later, you will see the familiar Camino sign.

Don’t get too excited when you hit the first buildings in Tabara. You will still have a 10-15 minute slog to the albergue. However, there is a supermarket on your left just as you enter Tabara so if it is open, it might be an idea to stock up for the next day to save you coming back. The albergue has 14 beds, and does a communal evening meal as well as breakfast. There’s a couple of toilets and a shower and washing area. It’s a donation place. It’s only disadvantage is its location if you are knackered! If you don’t speak Spanish, dinner is good but involves some history, speeches, a short video and some drinking! Lights go out at 10.00pm and are switched on about 7.00am.

It was a great day today, if a little tiring. The feet appear a little better each day now. Looking forward to tomorrow.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 26 Tabara to Olleros de Tera via Melgar de Tera (26km)

After a good breakfast, I was off about 7.30am with a plan! The first part was to get out to the main road and do a road march for 5.5kms, to get some distance done in the first hour as potentially, this could be a long day. It was nice and cool with a clear sky. When you get to the top of the hill after 5.5kms, with the highest wind turbine directly on your right hand side, you take the dirt track on the left for 50 metres and then you’ll see the Camino shell and arrow.

Next comes 8kms of dirt track walking through low scrub country. There was a nice smell of lavender in the air. Then you arrive in Villanueva de la Peras. If you follow the camino arrows, you’ll come to a small roundabout with a bar / cafe, a good place to rest.

If you are off to Santa Marta, you can follow the arrows but I need to save a bit of time. There was a clear dirt track all the way from Villanuave to Melgar de Tera, about 6 kms, so I took that. It’s not signposted so a gps would reassure you that you are going in the right direction.

As you come out of the bar, turn right and then right again up to the church. Keep the church on your right and keep going up hill slightly to your left. The road quickly turns into a dirt track that bends left. Follow that for about 150 metres, then turn right. That’s it! Keep going on this dirt track for the next 5.5kms and you’ll be in Melgar de Tera. Don’t take any left or rights, and at an open waterway, cross over that and keep going. I used the free gps app maps.me with the free Spain map you download after downloading maps.me to guide me - very easy to use. This route means I didn’t have to go to Santa Marta, saving 7 or 8 kms.

Melgar has a small supermarket near the church but I didn’t find anything else except a working water fountain. After stopping for lunch by the fountain, I walked on by the road to Calzadilla de Tera. With a bit of effort, you could walk from the road to the Camino dirt track, but I was happy on the roads today.

Calzadilla was a right pain. As you approach the place, arrows go off in two directions. In town, yellow arrows all seem to lead to some hotel. The arrows that supposedly lead to the Refugio lead to an abandoned building. After 20 minutes of going around in circles and unable to find a cafe or anyone to ask, I gave up and walked a further 2 kilometers along a water drain to Olleros de Tera, where I booked into the friendly and welcoming Albergue la Trucha - you’ll see signs as you approach the village. There are only 6 beds, no bunk beds, all the usual facilities and it is attached to a bar, with evening meals. Very happy.

Today, the total distance for this route was just under 26 kms. And the feet are good! Will be looking now for other shortcuts, so I can walk into Santiago on the 12th Oct.

Happy days.

 

[Undermanager]

It appears that Oct 12, the day I plan to walk into Santiago in the afternoon, is a public holiday. Do I need to book a bed / room do you think for this night?

 

[SYates]

Might be advisable anyway, no matter if it is a public holiday or not. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Undermanager]

I am using a Note 4 Android phone with two free apps, Maps.me and Geo Tracker. This review is about Maps.me and why, before you do your Camino, you should spend time learning to use these useful apps.

As with all electronic devices, you should NEVER rely 100% on them as they may fail, break or the battery runs out. Always have a second device as a back-up and know where you are going e.g. with a map and compass, and have a back-up plan.

What is Maps.me?

• This is an app that lets you download and display highly-detailed free maps for any country, including Spain on your smartphone. Eg the map for Spain can be zoomed in to display most dirt tracks!
  
  
• The maps can be viewed off-line i.e. you don’t need a data plan in Spain to use this app (a really big advantage).
  
  
• The app can show you your exact current position on the map.
  
  
• The app can show you the straight line distance between where you are now and any other point on the map.
  
  
• You can import and display tracks (routes that others have followed) from many different web sites set up for the purpose of sharing tracks. This allows you to check you are walking in the right direction.
  
  
• You can import Google tracks (klm files) or convert standard gps files (gpx files) into klm files easily online and use those.
  
  
• Some key features are shown, like some albergues, transport hubs and shops.
  
  
• You can bookmark specific points on the map for later reference.
  
  
• Can use it to find out how to get somewhere from where you are.
  
  
• It’s a bit of fun to mess about with in the evenings!

Why use maps.me or indeed any gps-based app?

• You can easily check where you are and the direction you are heading in relation to the Camino route.
  
  
• If you have a problem, you can see the easiest way to get help e.g. the nearest village or road.
  
  
• You can easily plan shortcuts and different routes to a destination.

How should you start learning to use Maps.me?

• Download the app, then when prompted, download the free maps for Spain but also your home country.
  
  
• Go to your local park. Switch on the gps on your phone (in Android, you go to Settings, then Location and then move the slider across). This will ask your phone to contact at least 3 satellites, so it can work out within a few metres where in the world you are.
  
  
• The gps unit can take a few seconds to a few minutes to get a fix in your exact position. Be patient!
  
  
• Open up the Maps.me app. Click on ‘My position’. See where you are. Start walking. Zoom in and out and see the detail.
  
  
• Visit the Support pages. Search the FAQ and Getting Started online or go to https://support.maps.me/hc/en-us

The best way of understanding what this app is about, even if you are not very good with technology, is to download the app and your country map and just start using it. Experiment. Try different things. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Use the support website. Search for help in YouTube and help in Google.

Finally, do this in plenty of time before your Camino, so you are confident using it when you start. It really is very useful.

Maps.me is just one app I use. The other is Geo Tracker, which is similar but different. This app allows you to do many of the things Maps.me does, but you can also store your own track, see and share your walking stats for the day (like distance travelled, average speed, elevation maps etc). I’ll post a review of that app another time.

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks. Recommendations from personal experiencecanyone, for a cheapie room in Santiago rather than an albergue? I have to get a bus to the airport first thing in the morning.

 

[AlanSykes]

Thanks. Recommendations from personal experiencecanyone, for a cheapie room in Santiago rather than an albergue? I have to get a bus to the airport first thing in the morning.

I'll be the first to recommend San Martín Pinario, half albergue half hotel, decent single en suite rooms in the albergue bit for €23 or thereabouts b&b, amazing location by the parador, tel 981560282, 10 mins walk from the airport bus stop.

 

[SYates]

I second San Martin Pinario. Important! The pilgrims room can only be booked by phone or email, not via their website. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Undermanager]

Day 27 - Olleros de Tera to Asturianos 39km

Set off at 7.30am. The albergue last night kept the music going till 4.00am but the ear plugs worked fine. A few of the others in the room weren’t so happy

The walk to start with was great, over rolling hills and then a big dam, after which you walk round the bank. Saw some deer. The albergue in Villar de Farfon after 8.5kms was the last building before you leave the village. It looked like a great place to stay and wanted to stop for a drink but the loud barking dog inside put me off so walked on by.

At 14.5kms, you hit Rionegro del Puente. The albergue looks amazing. Stopped to have a coffee and cheese and tomato sandwich at the bar up on the right as you look at the albergue’s front door. 8 Euros!!! What a ripoff. Avoid.

The walk to Mombuey at 23kms went quickly, over mostly flat land with a few small hills. If the albergue is closed, just knock on number 4 opposite for the key. I liked Mombuey, which was small but packed full of bars and shops and on a main road if you need a bus! I didn’t like the small albergue, which had bunk beds packed into a tiny space, a couple of toilets and nothing else. It was early so decided to go to Astutanos.

This was easy enough and went very quickly, about 4 more hours. Cenedilla and San Salvador, at 8kms and 11kms from Mombuey both profess to have places to stay but I couldn’t find any evidence. Both places are picture perfect and if you had a few supplies, would be well worth staying in, especially the larger San Sebastian.

Bugger! when you get to Asturianos, guess where the albergue is? Yep, it’s the last building on the other side of the village, uphill, about 20 minutes slog.

Although the albergue is nippy, the showers are brilliant, it’s clean and tonight, there's only me. But the best news is that there is a bar 10 metres from the albergue, for the Sports Hall, which does food and drink. The pizza is great and they are very friendly. Stock up here for supplies rather than trudge back to the main road for supplies.

The feet are tired but functioning. One more big day tomorrow and I reckon I can get to Santiago on the 12th, as long as there is no further injury!

 

[KinkyOne]

Albergue in Rionegro is really great. I had the pleasure to be there all by myself as I was also in Asturianos (you're doing long stages Undermanager ). Too bad I wasn't able to enjoy the river swim at the entranco to Rionegro because I had to put all my stuff into dryer because of bedbugs I've caught in Sta.Marta de Tera muni. The place you were resting at was OK for me althought nothing special in form of some real "home-cooking" as was recommended. Afterwards I went to the restaurant across the street (left if facing albergue doors) and was really sorry I hadn't reserved dinner there. Next time I'll do that for sure!

Keep us posted, please!

 

[SYates]

There are two places that do food in Rionegro, one bar at the left side from the albergue (if you look out the albergue door) in the plaza and the restaurant "Me Gusta Comer", the bar is ok-ish but "Me Gusta Comer" is one of the best places I have ever eaten at on and off the Camino with really pilgrim-friendly prices and atmosphere. Buen Camino, SY

 

[SabsP]

There are two places that do food in Rionegro, one bar at the left side from the albergue (if you look out the albergue door) in the plaza and the restaurant "Me Gusta Comer", the bar is ok-ish but "Me Gusta Comer" is one of the best places I have ever eaten at on and off the Camino with really pilgrim-friendly prices and atmosphere. Buen Camino, SY

If I 'm able to walk the Sanabres next year I will def. stop at Me gusta comer. I heard such raving reviews about the place.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 28 - Asturianos to Requejo road hike (23 km)

I woke up today at 7.00am after a solid 10 hours sleep! I had breakfast, which was bought from the bar last night. Outside was very cold and overcast and it looked like a day of rain. In fact, within a few hours, it was a clear blue sky and rapidly warming up.

I had had a few days of countryside so decided a road hike was in order! This has its own charms, not least that it usually saves on kilometers and there are less ups and downs. You can put your headphones on and really eat up the kilometres. It can be harder on the soles of your feet but with regular breaks, I find them fun. And sometimes, a few unexpected gems are thrown up ...

So, ignoring all Camino signs, it was down to the main road in Asturianos and on with the march. This road was actually it, the road that took me all the way to Requejo. And most strange, the road was very busy, full of people hiking in the direction of Requejo? What was going on here?

3 kms from Asturianos was the village of Palacious de Sanabria and just by the road was an open cafe bar, so coffee time! And people were still hiking on past.

4 kms past here was Otero de Sanabria and all was revealed. There was some kind of Sunday market and fiesta going on. I spent an hour wandering around. There was a fair, lots of stalls selling agricultural implements, large octopi boiling in big iron pots, loads of food stalls, a church that seemed in full swing with Sunday religious stuff and people were arriving in large numbers, walking and by car.

After this, I carried on the road hike to Puebla de Sanabria, a further 4 kms more down the road. The road I was on skirts the town so skirt it I did, although to be fair, it looks worth a stay, with a castle, old walls and a reputation for being on the tourist trail. Perhaps next time.

About 3 kms past Puebla, and a kilometre or two past the petrol stations, is a nice stopoff place for lunch. You can see it from the road, but the entrance is actually 100m back. You can however hop over the road barrier.

After that, it was head down and a march to Requejo. There are two albergies in this small village and enough bars to keep you happy, all within a few hundred metres of walking in to Requejo.

The municiple albergue in Requejo is excellent and thoroughly recommended!

The municiple albergue is the closest one as you walk along the main road. Look for a large ‘Farmacia’ sign on the right side of the road and the albergue is on the right side of that building. It is only 5 Euros a night, in immaculate condition, with spotless ladies and gents toilets, with fantastic large showers with piping hot water and the main bedroom is equally clean with about 20 beds.

I’ve read a few reviews talking about how wonderful the other albergue is, how dirty the municiple one was etc (did these people really visit both?) and can only report what I’ve seen - the municiple albergue represents outstanding value and is as clean and hygenic as a hospital and as good as any I’ve stayed in, so don’t be put off. There are also many useful pieces of info on the notice board telling you where you can get excellent pilgrims’ dinners for 10 Euros or less in the local cafes and restaurants (use the money for dinner you save by not staying at the other far more expensive albergue).

The countryside around here reminds me of Scotland. It’s really nice, hilly, sunny and warm (sunny and warm aren’t things that remind me of Scotland though).

Not sure about tomorrow yet. I understand the first 10kms is a major hike up up up. May just road hike this again or might try to hitch or take a bus and see about adding a few kilometres to the day. Only tomorrow can tell ...

 

[Undermanager]

Day 29 Requejo to Lubian 15 kms

Last night, I was the only one in the brilliant and cheap municiple hostel and I had an excellent night’s sleep - that’s two nights running!

Today’s short walk took about 5 hours as the first 9km are uphill, to over 1300 metres. It was freezing cold when I set off before 8.00am so was well wrapped up. The forecast was clear blue skies and nice and warm.

You have to walk 4.5km uphill along the road, until you finally see a Camino Diversion sign that takes you on a track. I took this and within 500 meters, it met with the tarmac again. You can either continue with the track or just sod it and take the road. It was faster on the road, less painful underfoot and I really wanted to walk over the massive viaduct rather than follow a path down into the valley and up again the other side. You are also always in earshot of the motorway wherever you are so the road is a good option in my opinion. The road it was!

Walking across the viaduct is a real experience. It’s very high and is quite dizzy-inducing. There are great views from it as well. A few kilometres after the viaduct, you have to walk through a 385 metre tunnel. More fun. Somewhere around here is the highest point on the Camino.

After the tunnel, you hit Padornelo at about 9 kms from Requejo, a small village following along the road. You’ll see a few working water fountains and also a bar selling food and drink. A little further on is a petrol station and another place to eat.

The next few kilometers are a downhill road hike, until you turn off for Lubian, following the yellow arrows off to the left and then down under the motorway through a tunnel. The last three kms to Lubian are very pretty, mostly following a tree-lined lane. It’s down then up so can be quite a slog at the end of your day.

The hostel in Lubian is really fantastic, a small old stone building on two levels with a kitchen and a few beds on the lower level, and many more beds and a shower on the upper. It’s a real gem as is the village itself. As it was only about 1.00pm, I legged it round to the supermarket and spent 10 Euros on a bottle of wine and everything for lunch, dinner and breakfast tomorrow. The plan is to relax for the rest of the day, take in the massive hills that surround Lubian and hope that for three days running, no one else checks in! And about an hour after writing this, someone did, but he’s a friendly German with great English, so that’s okay. Interestingly, he said he slept on a mat in the sports hall yesterday in Asturianos, where I was on my own, as there were a lot of people, so he put in a big day today doing what I did in the kast two and just stayed on the roads. That’s a good incentive to keep moving.

The toes have some blisters after today but they aren’t painful. I’m using Compeed blister patches, which work really well and are well worth the money. There is still one very tender spot just behind the middle toes on my left foot. There’s not a lot I can do except take the pain, keep putting foot cream on it and put a bandage over it to cushion it a little. It’ll probably be fine when I finish the Camino

Starting to be concerned about cash. Down to my last 70 Euros so need to find an ATM soon or I will have to get a bus to find one. Hopefully there will be one in A Gudina. What do Spanish people do - there are so many villages and towns yet so few banks and ATMs?

I want to put in one more big day at some point, to keep ahead of the bubble behind me and to ensure I get to Santiago on time. I can easily see me hopping on a bus when one conveniently presents itself to me, just for 20km ….

Note to self: for the next Camino, I need to try and slow right down. There are so many nice places to stay in, it seems a shame to rush it all the time.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 30 Lubian to Campobecerros 41km

What a great day, not too hot, not too cold all day. The walk to A Vilavella was wonderful but quite tiring. You get great views as you climb higher and higher to get very close to the wind turbines and can look down at the motorways. The countryside is very pretty. There’s a good drinking fountain at the very top so no need to carry more than a litre of water. It’s worth stopping at the bar at A Vilavella. It’s a small place and it would be worth staying there for an evening and getting drunk if you can find a reasonable room in the village.

From A Vilavella it is also very pretty. It reminded me of the Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye. Great views and very pretty. You’ll pass quite a few drinking fountains and two villages before hitting A Gudina so no need to carry too much water. A litre and a bit is more than enough.

A Gudina looks like the centre of the construction industry, housing all the workers and it has many, many bars as well as a few ATMs - the first bank on the left rejected my card but the second bank further along accepted it. Decision time. Stay or go. It was about 2.30pm so going meant 20km, at least 5 hours for me. What the hell. Everything felt good, I was feeling great, the feet were perfect and I was up for it.

In A Gudina, there is a junction at the end of a street where the camino points both left and right, with a little map. You want the one pointing to the right, towards Laza, where it says ‘Si, OK’ on the road. You are in for an adventure.

The 20kms is essentially a road hike with a few kilometres on dirt track. The road climbs and climbs, giving you great views, which get better with each kilometre. The yellow arrows are often few and far between but just keep the faith and follow them, until there is a very clear turn off to the left.

It was at this point, after around 8kms from A Gudina thst my left leg started to feel like it had cramp. I stopped, rested, stretched and it was okay for a while. With every kilometre, the views just got better and better but the pain in my leg got more and more to the point where I was limping along slowly. With about 7 kilometers to go, it was 6.00pm and I’d been walking more than 10 hours so enough. Out went the trusty, rusty hitch-hiker’s thumb and the second vehicle stopped. Within 10 minutes, I was in the excellent albergue in Campobecerros.

The albergue was great apart from the very bright night lights (and no WiFi) but after the usual routine of showering, washing out the day’s clothes and getting everything laid out for bed, it was off to the nearest bar (also no WiFi) with Sebastian, a German who was also in last night’s albergue. We had a great meal with wine plus ‘uno klara con limon’ (a very refreshing shandy) all for 9 Euros.

The plan is a slightly later start tomorrow to give the feet an extra hour to recover, and then aim for Vilar de Bario, about 33 kms away. So far, am 800 kms away from Seville and about 175 kms from Santiago. At this rate, I will be able to arrive on the 11th Oct and then have a full day there on the 12th before leaving on the 13th. Still haven’t booked anywhere yet, as the previous suggestion was 50 US a night booking direct. Still thinking about it!

Have now hit the Camino groove, where I just want to walk and walk and walk and feel the euphoria and adrenalin rush every day. The feet ache but the pain is manageable now and I always try to work out an exit strategy for the difficult parts of the day ahead, just in case, like today.

Roll on another good day tomorrow.

 

[AcrossTheWater3008]

@Undermanager

Hi, enjoying your regular updates! Would love to do this route next year!

Buen Camino!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 31 Campobecerros to Vilar de Barrio - 31 km

Very cold and certainly fleece weather, and misty at the start of today. Had a good breakfast at 8.00am and set off. The journey to Laza went very quickly despite being 13kms away. Mind you, it was mostly downhill!

You can have a nice break in Laza at a nice cafe, but can’t remember the name - it did have an exceptionally miserable girl working behind the bar though.

From Laza, you walk a few kilometers to Tamicelas. Then it’s hell. It’s a really hard slog uphill that goes on forever, and ever, and ever. Take a snack and extra water. This part of the walk was harder than the previous two days for sure.

When you finally reach the top where the road is (after thinking you have reached the top many times) you walk downhill to Albergueria. I was planning to stay there but the bloke working in the cafe full of shells and albergue was as miserable as the cafe girl in Laza. Related? I had a boiled egg and an ‘una klara con limon’. As the old git was taking me to the albergue, I got fed up with his pathetic attitude so turned round and said I was off to the albergue in Vilar de Barrio. Working in the hospitality industry wasn’t his best move.

So, 7 kms later at about 6.30pm I collapsed into the albergue, which is a class act. Did the shower and washing routine then went for a beer and some shopping. The feet hurt but hopefully with rest will be okay tomorrow. Half thinking about walking for a while then hitching into the city and have a rest day. Who knows ….

 

[KinkyOne]

You have to walk 4.5km uphill along the road, until you finally see a Camino Diversion sign that takes you on a track. I took this and within 500 meters, it met with the tarmac again. You can either continue with the track or just sod it and take the road. It was faster on the road, less painful underfoot and I really wanted to walk over the massive viaduct rather than follow a path down into the valley and up again the other side. You are also always in earshot of the motorway wherever you are so the road is a good option in my opinion. The road it was!

Walking across the viaduct is a real experience. It’s very high and is quite dizzy-inducing. There are great views from it as well. A few kilometres after the viaduct, you have to walk through a 385 metre tunnel. More fun. Somewhere around here is the highest point on the Camino.

Exactly what I did. Stayed on the road the whole way but the viaduct and tunnel were a bit scary experience as the traffic wouldn't slow down a bit even when walking on the left side of the road facing vehichles.

Keep on!

 

[KinkyOne]

...It’s worth stopping at the bar at A Vilavella. It’s a small place and it would be worth staying there for an evening and getting drunk if you can find a reasonable room in the village.

Actually that's the first village in Galicia you've entered and maybe really deserves a stop. I remember that bar with lady owner. There's also a Spa hotel to the right towards N-525. I got a bit lost in the center of the village and turned right somewhere in search of tienda and walked past it (small tienda just before it) and then walked on N-525 to Carrizo where there is a kind of roadstop motel. But very cheap, nice room, credit card payment and one of the best dinner I've ever had on my Caminos. Especially after very wet walk over the pass to Galicia. I thanked her (Galicia) for that welcome of course with drinking enough Estrella Galicia's that afternoon and evening

 

[KinkyOne]

When you finally reach the top where the road is (after thinking you have reached the top many times) you walk downhill to Albergueria. I was planning to stay there but the bloke working in the cafe full of shells and albergue was as miserable as the cafe girl in Laza. Related? I had a boiled egg and an ‘una klara con limon’. As the old git was taking me to the albergue, I got fed up with his pathetic attitude so turned round and said I was off to the albergue in Vilar de Barrio. Working in the hospitality industry wasn’t his best move.

Ahahahaha, yes that uphill slog was a real killer, agree. But also very nice. Canadian guy I walked with for few days took a tarmac road and said it wasn't any better, so...
With your comments of a "guy" (he's an icon of Sanabres, BTW) in Albergueria you won't get any likes here I guess. But I did have the same feeling about him. Didn't intend to stay there but only ordering the beer in a bottle was a tackle. No good vibes there either.

 

[Undermanager]

Dsy 32 Vilar de Barrio to Ourence

What makes an icon? As far as I'm concerned, he was miserable, unwelcoming, uncommunicative and not someone I want to rent a room or bed from. Perhaps he just doesn't like people?

Damn damn damn!

Woke up this morning after finally getting to sleep. The feet really were painful in bed last night and kept me awake for a long time. Underfoot, just behind the toes, this morning felt like massive bruises. I guess I overdid it in the last few days! Walking is out of the question. Crawling might be possible.

In the absence of anything remotely resembling an autobus timetable, I asked around in Vilar what time the next one goes to Ourence, to see what the options were. So far, I've had various times between 9.00am and 11.45am. How do Spanish people in a village or town know roughly when a bus is due if there are so many different opinions about the next one? Or is the Spanish way to always answer a question even if you have no idea about the answer? Genuinely interested in the answer to this one.

So, have decided to take a day off to try and recover enough to attempt the last four or five days to Santiago, wait for a bus and go to Ourence. Also took the time to book a hotel in Santiago for two nights from the 11th. Currently sitting in a cafe opposite where the bus (alledgely) stops having coffees and catching up with emails etc.

Why do some people have so many feet problems, and so many people have none? What to do differently on the next Camino?

 

[KinkyOne]

How do Spanish people in a village or town know roughly when a bus is due if there are so many different opinions about the next one? Or is the Spanish way to always answer a question even if you have no idea about the answer? Genuinely interested in the answer to this one.

Hahahaha, I don't have any good or definitive answer on that but I guess they just know general arriving/departure time (+/- 15 minutes) and when buses stop, usually in front of the bars in smaller towns or villages, they just have enough time to catch it. Easy

Kepp on. It's a beautiful Camino in front of you!!!


PS (BTW it's not OurenCe but OurenSe)

 

[Undermanager]

Day 33 Ourense to Oseira 31km

A great day of walking. it takes about half an hour to walk from the municple albergue to the outskirts of Ourense, and then there’s an hour’s steep slog. After that, it’s mostly plain sailing, with wonderful rolling countryside to Cea.

If you are not in a hurry, Cea, 22kms from Ourense, is a pretty place to stay. It’s small but has a bank, a few shops, a couple of bars, and has a nice open feel. There’s also an albergue but I’ve no idea what it’s like. It’s famous for bread and I commented before I knew this how tasty the bread used for my cheese and tomato sandwich was!

As you leave Cea, you’ll come to a junction where the camino splits. If you want to stay at the superb monastery in Oseira, then go right. After Oseira, you’ll rejoin the camino. If you aren’t goint to the monastery, go left.

9kms later, after walking through pretty countryside which seems mostly gently uphill, you arrive at the stunning albergue in the monastery at Oseira. This is is not to be missed in my opinion. The whole place is very impressive, the albergue is excellent with great showers and an atmospheric sleeping room. There are monastery tours at half past the hour in the late afternoons. They are in Spanish although there are some English handouts. It can be difficult matching up the bit on the handout with where you are in the tour but it is still worth going on - it costs 3 Euros. The building is very impressive to see. There’s a cafe and restaurant 100 meters from the albergue so food and drink is at hand although didn’t find WiFi.

To get your credential stamped, you ring the bell at the thin door on the left of the monastery entrance. When you step inside, there’s a pretty impressive shop selling all kinds of local stuff, including liquer coffee and chocolate. Just remember chocolate melts so don’t get carried away!

We got very lucky that night! A party of students arrived late and they were to be together so they moved the 15 or pilgrims from the albergue to the private quarters in the monastery! So atmospheric and wonderful at night, wandering through the corridors and cloisters. And most people had a single room. We also had a classic coming together of 15 disperate souls evening meal in the local cafe. One pilgrim named Don from Indonesia was 76 !!! It was a wonderful evening of fun and laughs.

Incredibly, I walked the entire 31 kms without any feet problems. The problem area behind my toes was covered with a large Compeed cover last night, and then sticky bandage tape was wrapped around that to keep it firmly in place. Three hours later, I could walk and go for food. This morning, it felt fine and once on the road, I quickly forgot completely about it. Magical stuff, Compeed! A range of sizes and lots of tape should be in everyone’s medical kit! Make sure you know how to use them. YouTube or Google.

About 80 kms to go and four walking days left. It’s looking promising …..

 

[Undermanager]

Day 34 Oseira to Castro Dozon - 10km

Today, with plenty of time to spare, I decided to do a short 3 hour walk, rest up, do not much and then walk to Sallida tomorrow (28km) followed by two 20km days to Santiago.

Out of the monastery, you walk back to the cafe and you need to take the track just to the left of it as you face the front door. No one checked yesterday as we were all getting drunk so a big band of us set off up the tarmac road in the dark before realising our mistake and turning back!

If you do set off in the dark, make sure you have a flashlight. the first hour is spent on one of those paths with millions of different sized stones, rocks, pebbles and bolders on and is really hard work without a light.

The Albergue in Castro is a wonderful surprise! It's a sparkling gem, with a large very light large bedroom, and a nice kitchen and showers. It's set in large grounds complete with bandstand, perfect for relaxing in, and although there is an open air pool with water in 20 metres away, at the moment it is locked Maybe it will be opened later! As you walk into Castro, you pass a petrol station, then cafes on the left and right of the road and the albergue is 300 metres further along.

There is a shop at the back of the first cafe and if you go round the back of the second one, there's a supermarket! Neither shop nor supermarket are easily spotted by the untrained foreign eye.

Looking forward to relaxing for the rest of the day, especially with the wine just bought from the supermarket and a few others who have had the same idea as me and are having a semi-rest day.

 

[Ants]

Day 34 Oseira to Castro Dozon - 10km

Today, with plenty of time to spare, I decided to do a short 3 hour walk, rest up, do not much and then walk to Sallida tomorrow (28km) followed by two 20km days to Santiago.

Out of the monastery, you walk back to the cafe and you need to take the track just to the left of it as you face the front door. No one checked yesterday as we were all getting drunk so a big band of us set off up the tarmac road in the dark before realising our mistake and turning back!

If you do set off in the dark, make sure you have a flashlight. the first hour is spent on one of those paths with millions of different sized stones, rocks, pebbles and bolders on and is really hard work without a light.

The Albergue in Castro is a wonderful surprise! It's a sparkling gem, with a large very light large bedroom, and a nice kitchen and showers. It's set in large grounds complete with bandstand, perfect for relaxing in, and although there is an open air pool with water in 20 metres away, at the moment it is locked Maybe it will be opened later! As you walk into Castro, you pass a petrol station, then cafes on the left and right of the road and the albergue is 300 metres further along.

There is a shop at the back of the first cafe and if you go round the back of the second one, there's a supermarket! Neither shop nor supermarket are easily spotted by the untrained foreign eye.

Looking forward to relaxing for the rest of the day, especially with the wine just bought from the supermarket and a few others who have had the same idea as me and are having a semi-rest day.

Not long to go now all the best

 

[Undermanager]

Day 35 Oseida to Silleda - 27km

There are some real characters on the Camino, and some who are idiots. Last night in the dorm at about 10.00pm, about half an hour after the lights were out, your phone rings. Do you a) just cancel it and ignore b) get it, go out the dorm and have your 20 minute chat or c) just answer it and chat away nice and loudly in the dorm for 20 minutes, waking everyone up?

Yes that’s right. Option c is the correct one if you were the Spanish woman last night. Even after the ‘Shushes’ started after 10 minutes and then multi-language versions of ‘be quiet’, ‘do that outside’ and ‘ffs’ which became increasingly hostile, she just carried on for about 20 minutes in total. What a prat.

Got up bright and early for this 27km walk. It was pitch black when I left at 7.00pm and you certainly need a flashlight and a good idea of how to get started. You can save half a kilometer by turning left out of the albergue and following the road rather than going right and following the Camino and you can also save a bit of time by doing a road hike - at that time you can’t see anything anyway so you might as well make fast progress. Look at a map and the Camino route to see the shortcuts (use the free maps.me app).

Great countryside today. Some very pretty features, such as what I assume is a small Roman bridge just before Silleda. No need to carry much more than a litre of water as there are enough fountains and cafes on the route, which is mostly rolling land with the odd 10-minute workout uphill. Starting early, I was able to average just over 4 kms an hour today plus breaks, which I was pleased about as it meant I got into Silleda about 2.30pm.

There were three or four albergues advertised as you walk into Silleda, plus some hotels offering cheap rooms. I decided to stay at the Albergue Turistico place. It’s 9 Euros per bed although they will try to flog you a single room, and dinner. The albergue appears to be on the third and fourth floor, which is a right pain - who wants to climb four flights of stairs after a long walk? The rooms are nice though and there is a kitchen. The beds have real sheets and blankets!

Will probably walk to Outeiro tomorrow, 24kms, which will leave 16kms on Tuesday into Santiago. I plan to get into Santiago around 11.00am on Tuesday and then have until Thursday morning to relax before having a three-day break in Barcelona then flying home to plan the next Camino! And it looks like tomorrow is the last of the sunny weather - possible rain and thunderstorms for Tuesday onwards.

 

[Undermanager]

Can I get a Credential from somewhere in Santiago, for next year?

Any special events worth seeing in Santiago on the 12th Oct?

Thanks

 

[SYates]

You can get a Credencial in the Pilgrims Office and/or at Casa Ivar. Buen Camino, SY

 

[sharon w]

You can get a Credencial in the Pilgrims Office and/or at Casa Ivar. Buen Camino, SY

Is the credential from Ivar the same as one from Sevilla?

 

[SYates]

No, the one from the VdlP has more VdlP related maps, but basic layout is the same. Buen Camino, SY

 

[sharon w]

No, the one from the VdlP has more VdlP related maps, but basic layout is the same. Buen Camino, SY

Thanks. Hope they have plenty in Sevilla. We are there 4 nights so should have lots of time to get them.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 36 Silleda to Outeiro - 22 kms

Had a good meal last night in the Silleda Touristico albergue and then slept like a log. Was the only one in the ‘dorm’ of three beds, despite there being many other pilgrims staying.

Left Silleda about 7.15am after having breakfast in a cafe on the Camino. The first half hour follows the main road pretty closely although some parts are within close earshot. I missed some arrows in the dark so had to backtrack a few times. Eventually, you break into rolling countryside, all very nice and pretty.

There’s no need to carry a lot of water. The first small town is about 6 kilometres away. You can get breakfast in one of the small cafes on the high street. I also passed a couple of albergues within 12 kilometres of Silleda, possible alternative destinations if you don’t like the idea of staying in the large, non-descript but harmless Silleda.

The four kilometres before you get to Puenta Ulla is very downhill so prepare to hammer your knees. I stopped off to have a look at the albergue O Cruceiro de Ulla in Puenta Ulla but decided against staying. The adverts hid very well that it is on a very noisy, busy road next to a petrol station. It would probably be fine for a stop and it did have a large cafe and bar. It is only a short walk back to the pretty village of Puenta Ulla, where you could sit in a nice cafe or go for a look around but it just didn’t inspire me.

Knowing that Outeiro had limited food options, I stopped for a big meal and then pressed on, knowing that I might be eating junk food in the evening and for breakfast. You can pop into the nearby large supermarket in Puenta Ulla and stock up with stuff for an evening meal and breakfast, if you can be bothered carrying supplies to Outeira, which is 4kms away, all uphill, some steep and some gentle but all uphill.

The albergue in Outeira is just outstanding! It’s in the countryside, modernistic, clean and quiet with a kitchen, communal showers, big comfy sofas and a few vending machines for drinks and chocolate bars, and nothing else.

There is a bar two kilometres away. Come out of the albergue, turn left for a few hundred metres to the road, then turn right downhill for one kilometer down to the main road. At the main road, turn left for about a kilometre and the best bar / restaurant in the world is before you, just past the furnature shop. It was open from 7.00pm. My beer, a bottle of the red from the place next door and the octopus was 8 Euros!!

There was no option of an evening meal or breakfast at the albergue. This is by far a *much* better option for an albergue stay than Puenta Ulla, if you can work around the limited food and drink options by carrying you own to Outeiro. And the four kilometres uphill to get to this albergue is four kilometres less tomorrow, on the way to Santiago!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 37 Outeiro to Santiago - 16 kms

There were six of us in the albergue last night. We were all up at the crack of dawn, had vending machine coffee (the albergue has a kitchen but no plates, cups, pots, knives, spoons etc etc) and a vending machine KitKat for breakfast. Then we all set off about 7.00am

The walk to Santiago is straightforward. The first cafe opportunity wasn’t for about 6 kms, and you have to walk off the Camino to the main road for it. There are a few more cafes as you get closer to Santiago. You don’t need to carry more than a little of water today.

The rest of the walk to Santiago was okay, not particularly wonderful but then, what city suburb is wonderful? Had to stop for some time to patch up more of the feet, hopefully for the last time.

I got to the PR Pazo de Agra pension about 11.45am and would thoroughly recommend this hotel - cheap and cheerful and 400 metres from the Cathedral. It is also on the Camino into Santiago from Outeiro so no messing about looking for it - bonus! Also, it is three minutes walk to Praza de Galacia, where you get the airport bus. The first one on the timetable is at 6.00am and then it is every 30 minutes after that.

Made the Pilgrims’ Mass at midday and realised why religion is on the decline. Prepare to listen to half an hour of Spanish sermons by colour-coded priests before the swinging of the Botafumeiro and the raising of 500 Smartphones to film the event. Indeed, you can feel the international collective relief when the Spanish sermons were over and the party trick was once again rolled out for a good swing. Had lunch at one of the nice little cafes next to the hotel then went to bed til the evening!

Have a couple of days to relax now before flying to Barcelona. Will be throwing my walking shoes away as well soon and trying to correct my walking posture, which I realised in the last few days was not very good. I seem to be walking on the inside of one of my feet, causing feet and hip problems. Some kind of proper corrective insole may be needed.

This has been a wonderful walk and I’ve met some great people, including the 76 year old Don from Indonesia and his 68 year old walking partner from the Philippines. You could easily do this walk all over again and stay in completely different places. I would love to keep on walking to the coast again but glad to be stopping now as rain is forecast for many days to come - it was really depressing walking in rain day after day back in April so won’t miss it at all.

Will have to start thinking about the next Camino soon. Quite fancy the Madrid again then the Camino north from Leon next April or maybe the Norte. Picked up a new blank Credential at the Pilgrim's Office today so just have to pack and wait for nice weather again!

Thanks for reading this. Other people’s mini blogs helped my planning so I hope someone finds these brief notes useful.

Buen Camino!

 

[KinkyOne]

There is a bar two kilometres away. Come out of the albergue, turn left for a few hundred metres to the road, then turn right downhill for one kilometer down to the main road. At the main road, turn left for about a kilometre and the best bar / restaurant in the world is before you, just past the furnature shop. It was open from 7.00pm. My beer, a bottle of the red from the place next door and the octopus was 8 Euros!!

There was no option of an evening meal or breakfast at the albergue. This is by far a *much* better option for an albergue stay than Puenta Ulla, if you can work around the limited food and drink options by carrying you own to Outeiro. And the four kilometres uphill to get to this albergue is four kilometres less tomorrow, on the way to Santiago!

Sorry to hear you had to walk 4+4kms for your dinner, because there's a restaurant in the village of Outeiro:
http://www.pazodegalegos.com/EN/hotel.html


It was nice reading your daily posts again.
And of course - congratulations for finishing your Camino!!!

 

[sharon w]

Day 37 Outeiro to Santiago - 16 kms

There were six of us in the albergue last night. We were all up at the crack of dawn, had vending machine coffee (the albergue has a kitchen but no plates, cups, pots, knives, spoons etc etc) and a vending machine KitKat for breakfast. Then we all set off about 7.00am

The walk to Santiago is straightforward. The first cafe opportunity wasn’t for about 6 kms, and you have to walk off the Camino to the main road for it. There are a few more cafes as you get closer to Santiago. You don’t need to carry more than a little of water today.

The rest of the walk to Santiago was okay, not particularly wonderful but then, what city suburb is wonderful? Had to stop for some time to patch up more of the feet, hopefully for the last time.

I got to the PR Pazo de Agra pension about 11.45am and would thoroughly recommend this hotel - cheap and cheerful and 400 metres from the Cathedral. It is also on the Camino into Santiago from Outeiro so no messing about looking for it - bonus!

Made the Pilgrims’ Mass at midday and realised why religion is on the decline, then had lunch at one of the nice little cafes next to the hotel.

Have a couple of days to relax now before flying to Barcelona. Will be throwing my walking shoes away as well soon and trying to correct my walking posture, which I realised in the last few days was not very good. I seem to be walking on the inside of one of my feet, causing feet and hip problems. Some kind of proper corrective insole may be needed.

This has been a wonderful walk and I’ve met some great people, including the 76 year old Don from Indonesia and his 68 year old walking partner from the Philippines. You could easily do this walk all over again and stay in completely different places. I would love to keep on walking to the coast again but glad to be stopping now as rain is forecast for many days to come - it was really depressing walking in rain day after day back in April so won’t miss it at all.

Will have to start thinking about the next Camino soon. Quite fancy the Madrid again then the Camino north from Leon next April or maybe the Norte. Picked up a new blank Credential at the Pilgrim's Office today so just have to pack and wait for nice weather again!

Thanks for reading this. Other people’s mini blogs helped my planning so I hope someone finds these brief notes useful.

Buen Camino!

Have looked forward to reading your posts. They have been very useful for our Camino next year. Look after those feet.