What happens is if there are no beds?

[Deepforest]

When I walk out from oviedo to start my primitivo, do I need to have anything booked? I'm hoping the idea is that I can walk until evening or my legs allow and then find an albergue. I take it they will be signposted from the way.
What happens if they are full? Will someone direct me to another accommodation? If there's none nearby will the allow me to sleep there, without a bed? I have visions of standing outside a full albergue in the dark.


Another thing I was wondering is if it's easy to get started on my walk from oviedo. I'm going to get the bus from Santander and really gave no idea where I go once I step off the coach in oviedo. Is it hard find the start of the primitivo from that point?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I Think I'm going to start booking flights shortly. If I can get over my anxiety about having no Spanish language and been eaten by bugs!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Deepforest,

I have not walked the Primitivo yet but, fingers crossed, I should be there mid-May. Will you find an albergue with a bed? Most likely. If you don't there are a number of options: in towns that have them, pensiones, hotels. If there are non and your legs are too tired, the local bar can call you a taxi to take you the nearest accomodation I'm sure.

Will you find an albergue when your legs get tired? Most likely you will not. This is not the Frances with an albergue every 5km or so, except in rare cases. On the Primitivo you may have to walk another 5, 10, 15km to find the next albergue. I have looked at the path, have figured out what may work for me in terms of what I think I am able to do daily. To avoir super long days, I will have to have super short ones: 10 kms or so. But that is ok. My body will welcome the rest, especially my plantear fascia. So, for the first time I will have a mini-Ipad to read on the shorter days.

Other than on the Hospitales route you will find a way "out of trouble" withing a few km. Have a sense of what is in front of you, but do not over plan or be afraid. Others have done, more and more people are walking this route every year, therefor so can you.

Over planing is the best way to ruin your Camino. Believe me, on my first I just walked. On the second I met half way a "booker" and "skipper" - ruined it for me. I am now going back to my initial way of doing it. In fact, even if I have 2 Primitivo guides by my bedside, I now chose not to read them. I have a bed in Oviedo, and return flight from Santiago to Madrid, the rest ... time will tell.

 

[santiago_67]

When I walk out from oviedo to start my primitivo, do I need to have anything booked? I'm hoping the idea is that I can walk until evening or my legs allow and then find an albergue. I take it they will be signposted from the way.
What happens if they are full? Will someone direct me to another accommodation? If there's none nearby will the allow me to sleep there, without a bed? I have visions of standing outside a full albergue in the dark.


Another thing I was wondering is if it's easy to get started on my walk from oviedo. I'm going to get the bus from Santander and really gave no idea where I go once I step off the coach in oviedo. Is it hard find the start of the primitivo from that point?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I Think I'm going to start booking flights shortly. If I can get over my anxiety about having no Spanish language and been eaten by bugs!

Deepforest, I have found this web site that shows you which pueblos have albergueswww.caminosantiagoastur.com - the site is in Spanish, but you can easily navigate it. Click on "Camino Primitivo" at the top which will bring up the stages - then click on the stage (for example: Oviedo-Grado) - then click on the stage and it will bring up "croquis y perfil" - click on that which will bring up a map showing pueblos that have albergues (capital "A" in a house) - an elevation chart will also appear for that stage. I hope this is useful. Buen Camino

 

[Rajy62]

When I walk out from oviedo to start my primitivo, do I need to have anything booked? I'm hoping the idea is that I can walk until evening or my legs allow and then find an albergue. I take it they will be signposted from the way.
What happens if they are full? Will someone direct me to another accommodation? If there's none nearby will the allow me to sleep there, without a bed? I have visions of standing outside a full albergue in the dark.


Another thing I was wondering is if it's easy to get started on my walk from oviedo. I'm going to get the bus from Santander and really gave no idea where I go once I step off the coach in oviedo. Is it hard find the start of the primitivo from that point?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I Think I'm going to start booking flights shortly. If I can get over my anxiety about having no Spanish language and been eaten by bugs!

I walked the Primitivo in June last year. Hmm... If your Spanish is poor, i suggest you get the only english language guide there is by cicerone. It has uptodate accommodation info.
If you want to have an idea on staging, why not have a look at my itinerary.
Since you are only doing the Primitivo, here is a guide put together by @ebrandt . I attach the file.

Booking depends on when you are going and what type accommodation you are seeking. By the end of June, aberques were getting full. I booked ahead, that means you have to plan your walk. But, there are plenty of pensions/hotels as well, no need to worry.

 

[Introibo]

My experience has been that you need little Spanish. Enough to be polite. When you go into a shop, greet the owner.

After that its two grown up people trying to engage in a buy and sell relationship. Pointing and using your fingers for quantity will work. Lowering your expectations will help. For example, an olive is an olive. If you insist on only eating olives grown on a southern facing slope, your Spanish is going to need to be very good. And you may not eat many olives. It also helps to stop comparing what you get to what you expected to get.
On my last day of walking I asked for cafe con Bailey's, fresh orange juice and toast. Well, that's what I thought I'd asked for. I got cafe con leche, fanta and a doughnut. It kept me going.

 

[mspath]

When all else fails the commonality is pantomime! After all you do not enter a bar/cafe to buy a used car. My worst recent mis-understanding
was ordering what I thought would be a starter and a main plate and ending up with 2 different tureens of soup!

 

[FlechaCadaDia]

I've found sleeping outside--on the edge of a farm or in a patch of trees--a surprisingly easy alternative.

 

[TerryB]

Another thing I was wondering is if it's easy to get started on my walk from oviedo. I'm going to get the bus from Santander and really gave no idea where I go once I step off the coach in oviedo. Is it hard find the start of the primitivo from that point?

Turn right when leaving the coach station onto Calle Pepe Cosmen. Walk straight ahead. This avenida becomes Calle de Independencia after the train station.
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@43.3647228,-5.8568188,17z
If you cross the pedestrian footbridge (or cross the main road )at the train station and carry on in the same original direction you are on the Camino. You should then find bronze shells set in the pavement and be able to follow a guide book.
A day in Oviedo is well worth while if you have the time. A visit to the cathedral and the Camara Santa was obligatory for the original pilgrims.

Any other questions please ask

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[Tia Valeria]

If needing accomodation when arriving in Oviedo the Hostal Oviedo on Calle Uria is pilgrim friendly, also other hostels nearby. Calle Uria is directly opposite the train station (at right angles) - walk with the station clock behind you. Cafe Cristina on the corner serves breakfast and the hostal is a couple of doors down C Uria itself - closed doors with telecom system. Three words only needed really. Peregrino/a - hay (hi) habitacion? If 'si' ('yes') then they open the electric latch and you go up 2 or 3 flights of stairs to the hostal entrance door.
If in the Cafe Cristina you can see pilgrims walking past.
Another good online guide is Gronze with lists of accomodation (albergues and private) along the Primitivo and if you have time the CSJ guide to the Primitivo is worth having as well as the Cicerone guide.
Buen Camino

 

[jpflavin1]

When I walk out from oviedo to start my primitivo, do I need to have anything booked? I'm hoping the idea is that I can walk until evening or my legs allow and then find an albergue. I take it they will be signposted from the way.
What happens if they are full? Will someone direct me to another accommodation? If there's none nearby will the allow me to sleep there, without a bed? I have visions of standing outside a full albergue in the dark.


Another thing I was wondering is if it's easy to get started on my walk from oviedo. I'm going to get the bus from Santander and really gave no idea where I go once I step off the coach in oviedo. Is it hard find the start of the primitivo from that point?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I Think I'm going to start booking flights shortly. If I can get over my anxiety about having no Spanish language and been eaten by bugs!

Deepforest:

When leaving Oviedo, I started at the Cathedral and went to the right (facing away from the Cathedral). You will find a large Brass plate in the walkway pointing to the direction of the Primitivo and the Norte. Then as you reach each intersection ( street ) look for the shell in the walkway. I did not find any difficultly leaving the city. I walked in April and found no problems with accommodations. I do not speak Spanish except for a few basic words/phrases and had no difficulty communicating.

Just start walking and trust in the Camino to provide. I do not mean to be nonchalant here but I think people worry too much. This is a relatively common route and the locals, I found, are friendly to Pilgrims.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[TerryB]

Deepforest:

When leaving Oviedo, I started at the Cathedral and went to the right (facing away from the Cathedral). You will find a large Brass plate in the walkway pointing to the direction of the Primitivo and the Norte. Then as you reach each intersection ( street ) look for the shell in the walkway. I did not find any difficultly leaving the city. I walked in April and found no problems with accommodations. I do not speak Spanish except for a few basic words/phrases and had no difficulty communicating.

Just start walking and trust in the Camino to provide. I do not mean to be nonchalant here but I think people worry too much. This is a relatively common route and the locals, I found, are friendly to Pilgrims.

Ultreya,
Joe

If the OP is coming into the coach station and wants to follow your directions, he will need to find the cathedral .

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[TerryB]

Hi Deepforest,
I don't know what time your coach is timed to arrive in Oviedo. If it is afternoon, be aware that you face a 30 kilometer stage if you plan to go through to San Juan de Villapanada. a better plan may be to aim for the albergue in Venta de Esclampero. That would leave you a 25k 2nd day to Cornellana and a short 3rd day to Bodenaya.
As I say it depends on the coach times and the total number of days you have available.

blessings on your planning
Tio Tel

 

[Harington]

I walked the Primitivo in June last year. Hmm... If your Spanish is poor, i suggest you get the only english language guide there is by cicerone. It has uptodate accommodation info.
If you want to have an idea on staging, why not have a look at my itinerary.
Since you are only doing the Primitivo, here is a guide put together by @ebrandt . I attach the file.

Booking depends on when you are going and what type accommodation you are seeking. By the end of June, aberques were getting full. I booked ahead, that means you have to plan your walk. But, there are plenty of pensions/hotels as well, no need to worry.

Hey no - the CSJ has an updated guide.

 

[koknesis]

well, it did not happen on primitivo, but my first real night on camino provided me a clear evidence, that there is no reason to worry at all.
having spent a night in SJPP, I took off in a really good pace and reached Roncesvalles by noon. after exploring Roncesalles and a delicious lunch in La Posada I decided, that it is too early to stop and continued in a much slower pace until reached Viscarret by 6pm. only then I realised that the closest albergue is in Zubiri, but somehow having run out of the steam, walking 10km more was not very bright perspective then. needless to say that the town appeared pretty deserted and I was the only pilgrim out there. suddenly I noticed a little, faded out, advertisement on the wall - casa rural and a phone number. it took me a while to get a spirit and dial it, since my spanish is non-existent. when a nice female voice (nfv) answered, following conversation took place:

me: buenas tardes! habitacione por favor. una persona. una noche.
nfv: (something in spanish what I did not understand)... and then: completo!
me: since I understood, that completo means completo, I just kept a really disappointed silence for a while.
nfv: (apparently realising that my speaking ability is over) espera momento! and hung up....

"espera momento!" sounded to me pretty promising, so I just stood by at the wall where the advertisement was placed. after some 5min a nice spanish lady showed up and guided me to the place where I got a room and dinner served.
since then my faith was firm: camino provides!

 

[Rajy62]

Hey no - the CSJ has an updated guide.

Should i say the best english language guide by cicerone....

 

[Deepforest]

Thank you for all the replies. I'm afraid my Spanish is non existent. But I will practice a few essential phrases prior to leaving. Going on the info provided I think I can use my phone map app to go from the bus station to the cathedral. I can then follow the route from there. If it's easier I'll try Terry's suggestion. I'll bookmark them streets on my phone. Thanks terry.

25k seems a fair bit. I am flying into Santander and the next morning I hope to get the coach to Oviedo. So I'm thinking it will be an afternoon start. I'm thinking as long as I get started I'll be happy. All the getting to Oviedo etc is just an necessary inconvenience really. Where would you recommend for a first night , if I depart Oviedo mid afternoon? Something short but enough to get me on my way.
Would I need to get my pilgrim passport in Oviedo prior to setting off? If so then I'll have to go to the cathedral? Is this correct?

Again, many thanks for all the replies.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Everybody knows that not getting a bed means instant death.

 

[ebrandt]

DeepForest -- RayJ already linked you to my guide. I think unless you are walking the Primitivo in the second half of July or august you shouldn't have a problem. The only thing I would say is to plan a bit ahead. The albergues on the Primitivo are a bit spread out. I think there are very few spots where its more the 10k between lodging but if you want the less expensive albergue option there are a couple of 20k gaps.

Leaving Oviedo I have heard that arrows are confusing. And you may want to leave via the Naranco monuments. Anyway -- my guide has turn by turn directions from forum members on both routes out of the city.

Buen Camino.

Liz

 

[Anna Machial]

Turn right when leaving the coach station onto Calle Pepe Cosmen. Walk straight ahead. This avenida becomes Calle de Independencia after the train station.
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@43.3647228,-5.8568188,17z
If you cross the pedestrian footbridge (or cross the main road )at the train station and carry on in the same original direction you are on the Camino. You should then find bronze shells set in the pavement and be able to follow a guide book.
A day in Oviedo is well worth while if you have the time. A visit to the cathedral and the Camara Santa was obligatory for the original pilgrims.

Any other questions please ask

Blessings
Tio Tel

These are the instructions for starting the Primitivo right off the bus as opposed to going to the cathedral, right?

 

[annakappa]

Would I need to get my pilgrim passport in Oviedo prior to setting off? If so then I'll have to go to the cathedral? Is this correct.

YES, you need to get your Credencial ( Pilgrim's passaporto) BEFORE you start walking. You can get one at the Cathedral.

 

[TerryB]

These are the instructions for starting the Primitivo right off the bus as opposed to going to the cathedral, right?

Right!

Keep smiling!
Tio Tel

 

[TerryB]

Would I need to get my pilgrim passport in Oviedo prior to setting off? If so then I'll have to go to the cathedral? Is this correct?

If you do want to start straight off from the coach station, why not send for a Credential from the Forum shop. There is a link at the top centre of this page!!
http://www.santiagodecompostela.me/

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[Tia Valeria]

Personally we prefer the CSJ guide as it has more detailed directions. The Cicerone is good but we read it, added notes into the CSJ one and left the heavier Cicerone at home. It seemed a shame to cut out just the section we wanted. We are doing the same again this year for the Camino Inglés. IMO it is best to gather as much info as possible using CSJ, Cicerone, EBrandt's guide and the various online guides (we favour Gronze) and then decide which to take.

For credencials from the Cathedral, if you do not have one from here on the forum, they are available Monday to Saturday when the Cámara Santa and cathedral shop are open (approx 10.00-14.00 and 16.00-18.00)

 

[Coleen Clark]

Deepforest,

I have not walked the Primitivo yet but, fingers crossed, I should be there mid-May. Will you find an albergue with a bed? Most likely. If you don't there are a number of options: in towns that have them, pensiones, hotels. If there are non and your legs are too tired, the local bar can call you a taxi to take you the nearest accomodation I'm sure.

Will you find an albergue when your legs get tired? Most likely you will not. This is not the Frances with an albergue every 5km or so, except in rare cases. On the Primitivo you may have to walk another 5, 10, 15km to find the next albergue. I have looked at the path, have figured out what may work for me in terms of what I think I am able to do daily. To avoir super long days, I will have to have super short ones: 10 kms or so. But that is ok. My body will welcome the rest, especially my plantear fascia. So, for the first time I will have a mini-Ipad to read on the shorter days.

Other than on the Hospitales route you will find a way "out of trouble" withing a few km. Have a sense of what is in front of you, but do not over plan or be afraid. Others have done, more and more people are walking this route every year, therefor so can you.

Over planing is the best way to ruin your Camino. Believe me, on my first I just walked. On the second I met half way a "booker" and "skipper" - ruined it for me. I am now going back to my initial way of doing it. In fact, even if I have 2 Primitivo guides by my bedside, I now chose not to read them. I have a bed in Oviedo, and return flight from Santiago to Madrid, the rest ... time will tell.

When we make plans, the angels laugh. When we are open to what will happen, we see what we call miracles but are actually gifts. Accept them.

 

[Coleen Clark]

well, it did not happen on primitivo, but my first real night on camino provided me a clear evidence, that there is no reason to worry at all.
having spent a night in SJPP, I took off in a really good pace and reached Roncesvalles by noon. after exploring Roncesalles and a delicious lunch in La Posada I decided, that it is too early to stop and continued in a much slower pace until reached Viscarret by 6pm. only then I realised that the closest albergue is in Zubiri, but somehow having run out of the steam, walking 10km more was not very bright perspective then. needless to say that the town appeared pretty deserted and I was the only pilgrim out there. suddenly I noticed a little, faded out, advertisement on the wall - casa rural and a phone number. it took me a while to get a spirit and dial it, since my spanish is non-existent. when a nice female voice (nfv) answered, following conversation took place:

me: buenas tardes! habitacione por favor. una persona. una noche.
nfv: (something in spanish what I did not understand)... and then: completo!
me: since I understood, that completo means completo, I just kept a really disappointed silence for a while.
nfv: (apparently realising that my speaking ability is over) espera momento! and hung up....

"espera momento!" sounded to me pretty promising, so I just stood by at the wall where the advertisement was placed. after some 5min a nice spanish lady showed up and guided me to the place where I got a room and dinner served.
since then my faith was firm: camino provides!

Exactly what I am looking for! Human nature at its best! Lovely!

 

[Tia Valeria]

........ I am flying into Santander and the next morning I hope to get the coach to Oviedo. So I'm thinking it will be an afternoon start. I'm thinking as long as I get started I'll be happy. All the getting to Oviedo etc is just an necessary inconvenience really. ........

If you are early enough into Santander you could catch the 16.10 FEVE to Oviedo it gets in about 21.09 and then stay in Oviedo overnight for a morning start. The FEVE station is virtually next to the bus station in Santander (FEVE not the adjoining building)

 

[TerryB]

Where would you recommend for a first night , if I depart Oviedo mid afternoon? Something short but enough to get me on my way.

The albergue in Venta de Esclampero is about 10.5 kilometers. Otherwise it would be best to stay in Oviedo.

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[jpflavin1]

Thank you for all the replies. I'm afraid my Spanish is non existent. But I will practice a few essential phrases prior to leaving. Going on the info provided I think I can use my phone map app to go from the bus station to the cathedral. I can then follow the route from there. If it's easier I'll try Terry's suggestion. I'll bookmark them streets on my phone. Thanks terry.

25k seems a fair bit. I am flying into Santander and the next morning I hope to get the coach to Oviedo. So I'm thinking it will be an afternoon start. I'm thinking as long as I get started I'll be happy. All the getting to Oviedo etc is just an necessary inconvenience really. Where would you recommend for a first night , if I depart Oviedo mid afternoon? Something short but enough to get me on my way.
Would I need to get my pilgrim passport in Oviedo prior to setting off? If so then I'll have to go to the cathedral? Is this correct?

Again, many thanks for all the replies.

Deepforest:

You can get a Credential through this site, at the Cathedral in Oviedo or at the Albergue in Oviedo.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Jools]

what is the Albergue in Venta de Esclampero like? as I've read some bad reports but as I'll be leaving Oviedo about lunchtime that distance suits me best for my first day

 

[Anemone del Camino]

what is the Albergue in Venta de Esclampero like? as I've read some bad reports but as I'll be leaving Oviedo about lunchtime that distance suits me best for my first day

Apparently it is quite dirty, a bit of dump. Many pilgrims have be known to pick up a mop and clean it a bit. I'm thinking that if I get there early I will offer to do just that when I pick up the keys at the bar.

 

[Jools]

Is there anywhere to stay in the near vicinity that might be better (private hostel or pension or hotel)? I could probably manage up to 15km that day if needed (or less if there was somewhere

 

[mspath]

Try checking the listings for the CP on this Gronze web site. Both pilgrim albergues and regular accommodation are cited.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Is there anywhere to stay in the near vicinity that might be better (private hostel or pension or hotel)? I could probably manage up to 15km that day if needed (or less if there was somewhere

Sorry, it's that or Grado.

 

[ebrandt]

what is the Albergue in Venta de Esclampero like? as I've read some bad reports but as I'll be leaving Oviedo about lunchtime that distance suits me best for my first day

I haven't been there but it appears to be very basic an, like many municipal albergues on the Primitivo, it does not have a full time Hospitaliero, but is looked after part time. I suspect it can have flies that get trapped in it is some weather and that if you show up before the Hospitaliero has cleaned, it can be messy. I've read the bad reports but also good ones. We are planning to stay there

Is there anywhere to stay in the near vicinity that might be better (private hostel or pension or hotel)? I could probably manage up to 15km that day if needed (or less if there was somewhere

Have you checked out my Primitivo Guide in the Camino Resources section here? I think I have every albergue listed and I have tried to list other lodging as much as possible. I don't necessarily have ALL the non-albergue lodging in a particular town, but if a town has lodging I think I have at least one place listed with web and phone info. LIz

 

[Jools]

Hi Liz yes I have your wonderful guide but as it seems things change all the time I wondered if there were any other nearby towns (even slightly off the Camino) that might have other accom but in this case I don't think there is so I guess I'll just have to see how it is on the day and weather I feel I can continue on to Grado or not

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm at the esclampero albergue and it is just fine. 26 beds in 3 rooms, not 12 like Eroski says, new metal bunks, clean and hard matresses with ni lumps, with a remivable cover and those are clean. Blankets on every bed but I'll pass on using them. Kitchen us minimal but clean. There are even new individual lockers with keys for our stuff!

Bar where you pick up the keys also offes rooms now. Talk about conflict if interest: keep albergue dirty get clients, or that may be why the albergue looks just fine to me.

 

[Kropelka]

Hi all,
I just finished my Primitivo few weeks ago.
I made a mistake of starting my journey straight from the plane... so after getting off the bus from the airport in Oviedo, finding Cathedral and finding the first shell on the pavement it was about 1pm. From there it was just only matter of walking I had a nice lunch in Venta de Escamplero and should stay there but insisted on getting to San Juan de Villapanada. Got lost on the crossroads and have made even few kilometers more then planned so when I finally reached Grado it was dark, late and raining. I was tired and exhausted but instead of staying in one of the hotels I wanted to find that albergue and hospitalero everyone was so kin on I tried my basic Spanish to ask for directions but in the end in desperation I rung the door of something what (in my mind) looked as an "albergue". A very nice Spanish couple mysteriously underestood my English Spanish, put me in their car and delivered to the albergue (which they didn't even know where it was exactly and had to ring someone for directions (!!!) It was close to 10pm everything was dark, no lights, but they waited outside with me if anyone will answer the door... Hospitalero was not in, but one of the peregrinos who decided on sleeping in the kitchen (because he snores heavily) opened and let me in...
"You never walk alone" and "Camino provides" are the most accurate descriptions of my experience

Buen Camino Deepforest and don't worry

 

[Kropelka]

Oh and thank you so much Liz for you guide it was most helpful (especially when you actually read it)

 

[Jools]

I'm at the esclampero albergue and it is just fine. 26 beds in 3 rooms, not 12 like Eroski says, new metal bunks, clean and hard matresses with ni lumps, with a remivable cover and those are clean. Blankets on every bed but I'll pass on using them. Kitchen us minimal but clean. There are even new individual lockers with keys for our stuff!

Bar where you pick up the keys also offes rooms now. Talk about conflict if interest: keep albergue dirty get clients, or that may be why the albergue looks just fine to me.

Thank you so much for the update, that is reassuring - planning to wak straight from the plane so esclampero will be perfect

 

[jpflavin1]

Thank you so much for the update, that is reassuring - planning to wak straight from the plane so esclampero will be perfect

I walked from Mieres on the Salvador and then walked through Oviedo after picking up a new credential. I stopped in Escamplero. The Albergue was not the cleanest and did not seem to be maintained on a regular basis. That said, it was adequate.

Ultreya,
Joe