Going to add a little more info. I stayed in Albergue Encina in Hospital de Obrigo last night, I really like the parish albergue but with -2 temps at midday I thought I give the outdoor showers a miss. It was very frosty and misty when I left there this morning and was tempted to walk the road way to Astorga but went right, through the more rural areas and was rewarded with clear views as I started climbing later, the colder denser air going to the lower areas. No bars or cafes were open in the next two villages, but the little rest place which david offers to pilgrims has a warm stove, coffee and welcome. I am in Santa Catalina in the El Caminante, if you ask for the albergue they will offer it to you, but I am staying in an individual room, if I am going to drink wine which I am tonight I stay away from dorms- I snore.