Nicci Fourie
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances (2015)
Camino del Norte & Primitivo (2016)
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Hi Guys
I am planning a little (mini) Camino in Portugal for April, but will only have 2.5 weeks to walk (which is super sad for me because the last time I walked I was real blessed with 2.5 months. bliss!)
Because my time is so short, I would really appreciate it if I could have some advise on which portion of the route in Portugal would be most recommended?
I much prefer small villages to cities, and would like to be away from tar/busy roads as much as possible.
As I have walked before, and been in for the long haul, I do not feel that I need to arrive to Santiago this time. I really just miss the journey, and would like to walk the most stunning portion of the route (if there is such a thing).
Also, is there anyone here who has walked Portugal in April?
Are Albergues open?
Am I likely to find other pilgrims along the way?
What was the weather like?
Would really appreciate any feedback on the above.
x
Nicci
I would "second" that! It was Incredible!!!!For me the most spectacularly beautiful part of the Camino Portugues was the camino de rocas y piedras along the variante espiritual (between Armenteira and Villanova).
Hi Guys
I am planning a little (mini) Camino in Portugal for April, but will only have 2.5 weeks to walk (which is super sad for me because the last time I walked I was real blessed with 2.5 months. bliss!)
Because my time is so short, I would really appreciate it if I could have some advise on which portion of the route in Portugal would be most recommended?
I much prefer small villages to cities, and would like to be away from tar/busy roads as much as possible.
As I have walked before, and been in for the long haul, I do not feel that I need to arrive to Santiago this time. I really just miss the journey, and would like to walk the most stunning portion of the route (if there is such a thing).
Also, is there anyone here who has walked Portugal in April?
Are Albergues open?
Am I likely to find other pilgrims along the way?
What was the weather like?
Would really appreciate any feedback on the above.
x
Nicci
Last spring (mid May to early June), my daughter and I took 22 days, from Porto to SdC, including flying from the US and back, a full day in Porto to sight see, a "zero" day of sightseeing in Valenca, 2 full days in ScC and a full day in Madrid for museum-going. We actually walked on only 14 days. No stage was particularly difficult, with maybe the exception of crossing "La Bruja" (actually, the hill after it).
So yes, I'd think you'd be perfect for a 2.5 week Porto to SdC trip. Plenty of extra time to poke around and linger when you find something interesting. And I think you will find plenty of spots you'll want to spend more time checking out. We were meeting 3 others who were not really experienced hikers, and only had about 10 days of time to walk. They joined up with us in Barcelos. So, we made the stages fairly easy distances for them, averaging around 12 miles a day, but some days less and only 1 day was 13.5 miles.
We used the newest Brierley as our bible. But the route was essentially what Albertinho had suggested (and many thanks for your guidance, sir!).
Here's our route, [with approximate mileage in brackets] (really only day 1 along the sea - glorious, and the fresh seafood was just amazing!):
Porto -> Vila do Conde [12.4]. (got stamped in in Porto Catedral Se', then shipped travel clothes and extra gear not taking on walk to Ivar in SdC (a great service!) for holding , next day took Metro to Mercado stop in Matosinhos, had a pastry and coffee and started walking by crossing the bridge and walked along the boardwalk until the Santa Clara albergue (muni albergue-great [they have washers and driers!]- one of the nicest on the route). We did stop for a late lunch at a sea-side resaurant - just amazing, fresh seafood! And dinner around the corner from the Santa Clara albergue was fun and the owners are very accomodating to perigrinos. A really great pilgrim meal.
VdC -> Sao Pedro de Rates [8.5]. Great following aqueduct. The albergue at Rates is one of the oldest on the CP. A beautiful day's walk.
Rates -> Barcelos [12.4]. We met the 3 others in our party having a late lunch. Had time to check into our hotel (reserved ahead) and shower, tour a bit, and make a wonderful pilgrim mass at the Igreja do Terco that evening (it was a Sunday).
{note: if you have any interest in detouring to Braga, you can take a bus early and be back that same night in Barcelos}
Barcelos ->Lugar do Corgo at Casa Fernada [11.2] Make reservations plenty ahead of time to be able to enjoy Fernada and Jacinto's wonderful hospitality. Donativo. You will be humbled and inspired and have a wonderful time.
Lugar do Corgo -> Ponte de Lima [9.0]. Great muni albergue across the bridge in PdL. Nice restaurants on the same square.
PdL -> Rubiaes [11.5] This is a tough day, not really because you cross the LaBruja, but because you climb over the Alto Portela Grande through the forest. The view, on a pretty day, is spectacular! The albergue in Rubiaes is very nice. It was nearly full the night were there. a nice coffee shop next door. The short walk to town has some good places that serve a hearty and tasty pilgrim meal.
Rubiaes -> Valenca [9.3] Nice muni albergue, but a bit off the beaten track. Something of a dilema here. The walled city of Valenca is worth a day to explore. We took a day off to do it. But when you cross the bridge into Spain, if you plan to have a short day and stay in Tui, you are now in Galicia and they have, or at least had, a rule that wouldn't permit you to stay in the muni albergue unless you have walked a certain distance that day, and the walk from Valenca wasn't long enough, so we ended up in a private. No big deal, but just know ahead. Tui is also worth the long stop and you can have a great meal.
Valenca -> Tui [???]. See above.
Tui -> O Porrino [9.3] Nice muni (Xunta) albergue. A bit confusing on waymarking, due to some hijinks by rival bar/restaurant owners vying for customers, so trying to change the route marker to run pilgrims past their places on different routes. follow your guide book closely. Lots of options for diner in town.
O Porrino -> Redondola [10.6] One of the coolest ablergues on the route. Just in the center of town. (Casa da Torre - Xunta run). The Iglesia de Santiago is not to be missed. Wander around.
Redondola -> Pontevedra [12.3] beautiful walk past the waterside through Arcade. the Xunta albergue is good, in fact marvleous, new, great sitting room with library. But a bit out of town. We took a taxi from the nearby rail station in for dinner and a stroll, and again back, to beat the curfew (barely!).
Pontevedra -> Caldas de Reis [13.4] Interesting place, but my group opted for a private there and a quiet dinner. the non-hikers were craving sheets and a real bed and a private shower.
CdR -> Padron [11.2] Muni (Xunta) albergue, pretty small, somewhat limited. But fine. but great view, and church next door, now monastery, is a show stopper. Dinner along the Paseo at any number of good restaurants.
Padron -> Faramello [8.7] Our group opted to stop short before ScC and spend the night so we could get up the next day and have a short walk into ScC and make it to the Pilgrim Office for our Compostellas in plenty of time for the Friday night mass and the botifumero. Very nice country. the albergue was nice, simple, with small restaurant that was fine for our evening meal. A nice place to stop and gather out thoughts about what we had done and were about to do.
Faramello -SdC [only 6.2 but seemed like forever-goalline fever running high]. Plenty of time to make it to the square and then a wait in line at the pilgrim office.
There are plenty of other ways to do it, but in 2.5 weeks, that route should give you plenty of time to get in some good walking, poke around here and there, and explore SdC a bit on the back end. Or you may prefer another way.
Whatever you decide, Bom Camino!
For me the most spectacularly beautiful part of the Camino Portugues was the camino de rocas y piedras along the variante espiritual (between Armenteira and Villanova).
Thank you! Did you experience a lot of rain? I'm walking the coastal in May.Hallo! Walked Porto to Santiago in 9 days in early may 2015. Weather was fantastic! Just enough pilgrims for me. Some albergues open but i mostly stayed in b&b's and a hotel or two. Plenty along the way....met a pilgrim that started in Lisbon that said Lisbon to Porto plenty of tarred road walking. From Porto walking surrounds is beautiful. Had a magical camino! Will however do it in 11 or 12 days next time.... Brierley guide book a must. Buen Camino!!!
Will be walking the Porto to Santiago end Aug beginning of Sept (12 days). What do you suggest? Senda litoral or inland route?Hallo! Walked Porto to Santiago in 9 days in early may 2015. Weather was fantastic! Just enough pilgrims for me. Some albergues open but i mostly stayed in b&b's and a hotel or two. Plenty along the way....met a pilgrim that started in Lisbon that said Lisbon to Porto plenty of tarred road walking. From Porto walking surrounds is beautiful. Had a magical camino! Will however do it in 11 or 12 days next time.... Brierley guide book a must. Buen Camino!!!
Excited to hear about your walk!I'm starting in Porto on Easter Sunday - the 16th of April and have about 2.5 weeks too so thanks @Swift3 for a good itinerary to get me started!
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