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The other side of the camino Baztan experience.
Well, I've walked the Frances 3 times, the Ingles 4, and the Portuguese, but this is far and away the WORST walk ever.
OK, the first bit along the Nive from Bayonne was nice, but after Ustarlitz the arrows were very sparse, the guidebook even worse, Got lost several times the first day, walked miles extra, and the dire ,dire walk through that awful border town was the most depressing stretch ever. Espelette has to be the rip-off capital of France - I originally booked single ensuite room through the tourist office, only to have it changed to another provider (mentioned on this forum but I shall not name) - same price 30euros, but shared room and facilities, no towels, and PAPER sheets - about the same as a muni in Spain for a sixth of the price. Edit - the booking was changed unilaterally by the Tourist Office, for reasons never explained - so I was stuck with it.
The second day to Elizondo was even worsely marked - I didn't know where I was for most of the day, and the going so rough my walking pole wrist straps actually cut into my thumbs - far worse than the Route Napoleon or Alto de Perdon. Again, very poor directions, fortunately some cyclists passed and put me on the right route. (Incidentally, met no one else at any of the stops - Urdax was empty, though I didn't stop there. But I did have a very nice meal there. Thank goodness to be in Spain)
The alb at Kortarixar was OK, but a bit creepy, as I was alone in the 16 bed dorm.
I gave up after that, as my old leg injury was playing up, and bussed into Pamplona, which was MUCH better.
Well, been walking the camino since 2011, twice a year, but enough is enough now.Adios.
The other side of the camino Baztan experience.
Well, I've walked the Frances 3 times, the Ingles 4, and the Portuguese, but this is far and away the WORST walk ever.
OK, the first bit along the Nive from Bayonne was nice, but after Ustarlitz the arrows were very sparse, the guidebook even worse, Got lost several times the first day, walked miles extra, and the dire ,dire walk through that awful border town was the most depressing stretch ever. Espelette has to be the rip-off capital of France - I originally booked single ensuite room through the tourist office, only to have it changed to another provider (mentioned on this forum but I shall not name) - same price 30euros, but shared room and facilities, no towels, and PAPER sheets - about the same as a muni in Spain for a sixth of the price. Edit - the booking was changed unilaterally by the Tourist Office, for reasons never explained - so I was stuck with it.
The second day to Elizondo was even worsely marked - I didn't know where I was for most of the day, and the going so rough my walking pole wrist straps actually cut into my thumbs - far worse than the Route Napoleon or Alto de Perdon. Again, very poor directions, fortunately some cyclists passed and put me on the right route. (Incidentally, met no one else at any of the stops - Urdax was empty, though I didn't stop there. But I did have a very nice meal there. Thank goodness to be in Spain)
The alb at Kortarixar was OK, but a bit creepy, as I was alone in the 16 bed dorm.
I gave up after that, as my old leg injury was playing up, and bussed into Pamplona, which was MUCH better.
Well, been walking the camino since 2011, twice a year, but enough is enough now.Adios.
And admittedly it's got some hills. That one after Urdax seemed endless, but it was never too steep.No matter how much any of us raves about a given camino...well, we're all different.
I'm sorry you had a bad experience, @Travellingman. Well, better camino luck to you next time someplace else, I hope!
When we 'Baztan 5' walked, we had a few instances of taking the wrong way, in spite of having one person with a garmin, two with the Buen Camino app, and one of us being a crackerjack map reader (not me...). But that was always from inattention or going off-piste on purpose, rather than from a lack of waymarkings. I'm curious to know if the few years have made such a difference.
And admittedly it's got some hills. That one after Urdax seemed endless, but it was never too steep.
And too bad you missed Belate. It was gorgeous.
How can you be so brutal? With your name... chalk it up to experience. You have to take what I say with a pinch of salt. I too am from the best wee country in the world. Wait for the onslaught....Poor accommodation, food, scenery. Lack of pilgrims and arrows. Uneven terrain! Creepy albergues, recurring injuries! Braw!!!!!!! I can't wait until my next Camino.
This is hilarious, too.we had a few instances of taking the wrong way, in spite of having one person with a garmin, two with the Buen Camino app, and one of us being a crackerjack map reader (not me...)
I to have walked the CF three times no others and would love to do one again BUT I am sencing a change in the camino. I am wondering about my camino future. Go well my friend good luck God blessThe other side of the camino Baztan experience.
Well, I've walked the Frances 3 times, the Ingles 4, and the Portuguese, but this is far and away the WORST walk ever.
OK, the first bit along the Nive from Bayonne was nice, but after Ustarlitz the arrows were very sparse, the guidebook even worse, Got lost several times the first day, walked miles extra, and the dire ,dire walk through that awful border town was the most depressing stretch ever. Espelette has to be the rip-off capital of France - I originally booked single ensuite room through the tourist office, only to have it changed to another provider (mentioned on this forum but I shall not name) - same price 30euros, but shared room and facilities, no towels, and PAPER sheets - about the same as a muni in Spain for a sixth of the price. Edit - the booking was changed unilaterally by the Tourist Office, for reasons never explained - so I was stuck with it.
The second day to Elizondo was even worsely marked - I didn't know where I was for most of the day, and the going so rough my walking pole wrist straps actually cut into my thumbs - far worse than the Route Napoleon or Alto de Perdon. Again, very poor directions, fortunately some cyclists passed and put me on the right route. (Incidentally, met no one else at any of the stops - Urdax was empty, though I didn't stop there. But I did have a very nice meal there. Thank goodness to be in Spain)
The alb at Kortarixar was OK, but a bit creepy, as I was alone in the 16 bed dorm.
I gave up after that, as my old leg injury was playing up, and bussed into Pamplona, which was MUCH better.
Well, been walking the camino since 2011, twice a year, but enough is enough now.Adios.
Well, maybe it's just me, or the day? It isn't so steep as climbing up to Roncesvalles from Valcarlos, but it was definitely long.Is this an understatement? It is still on my to do list! I need the truth!
That hill felt like a long slog after lunch in Urdax. I suspect that it’s easier when tackled first thing in the morning - a good reason to stop at the Albergue in Urdax!And admittedly it's got some hills. That one after Urdax seemed endless, but it was never too steep.
Is this an understatement? It is still on my to do list! I need the truth!
Espelette has to be the rip-off capital of France - I originally booked single ensuite room through the tourist office, only to have it changed to another provider (mentioned on this forum but I shall not name) - same price 30euros, but shared room and facilities, no towels, and PAPER sheets - about the same as a muni in Spain for a sixth of the price. Edit - the booking was changed unilaterally by the Tourist Office, for reasons never explained - so I was stuck with it
Yes, everyone sees things differently. I’m in Villava now, so just finished the Baztan today and was pleasantly surprised at how well marked the route was! Go figure. Albeit they are very discreet markings whilst in France, usually thin yellow tape but once into Spain they went a bit overboard with paint sometimes! I used mostly information gathered from Gronze, Nuala’s posts, and Gerald Kelly’s pdf to make my own little booklet for the route. I occasionally referred to both the Buen Camino app and the maps.me app to confirm my location but mostly in France.
I hadn’t done much elevation training beforehand so there were some tough days on this Camino but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Now, Westwards!!!View attachment 64896
how did you find the Buen Camino app? In fairness i did the path in Reverse, but i found it totally useless, filled with wrong information as to food availability- There was nothing in Urdax after 3pm, and had path in wrong places in Forest between Elizondo and Lantz (and too many arrows made it hard to guess where path was coming from)
Found it good for a Camino app.how did you find the Buen Camino app? In fairness i did the path in Reverse, but i found it totally useless, filled with wrong information as to food availability- There was nothing in Urdax after 3pm, and had path in wrong places in Forest between Elizondo and Lantz (and too many arrows made it hard to guess where path was coming from)
Yes sir. It was written in jest, but perhaps better not to have written it. If you are offended, apology offered.Hi mate, was this quote directed at me?
Yes sir. It was written in jest, but perhaps better not to have written it. If you are offended, apology offered.
Mate, I wasn't offended, a little surprised! It could have been construed as a direct slight. Definitely, not my style. [/QMaybe, I owe an apology to the OP, VNwalking. My intent, was not to belittle your struggle! I was merely..... making light of Camino woes! It was meant in general terms!
Not...directly at your post. Sorry.
Agree with these sentiments. Sometimes you can have a less than optimal experience for any number of reasons, and swear-off returning. If you go to the extent of posting your thoughts on this forum, then you can be sure that they are heart-felt. Receiving responses along the lines of 'But I had a great time!' reflect a different and valid experience, but do not offer the reassurance and encouragement for which the OP might be hoping. I thought Kiwi Family and Dave Bugg got it about right.@Travellingman, good luck on the rest of this Camino. As someone who has said "never again" at least twice what usually works is a breather from walking the routes year after year, then you can assess what you take from walking them and how important it is to you. Usually most people come back, me included.
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