federico
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances 11 & 14
Norte & Ingles 15
Portuguese 16
Via de la Plata 17
Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo 17
Just returned from walking the Camino Torres and Camino Portuguese (coastal) with Variante Espiritual and wanted to provide support for walking the last stage. I walked last Saturday from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, a stage of about 30-32 kms. The route is well waymarked with yellow arrows and a few of the Route of Father Sarmiento signs which follows the coastline all around the peninsula. In looking for information for this stage I didn't find much about the walk. There were a couple of not too flattering descriptions and definitely the Variante information promotes the maritime finish. I was asked in both albergues about booking the boat. Which by the way didn't seem to be a problem for the other fellow staying in the albergue even though he was the only one. The day before there had been 6 people. The hospitalero in Vilanova albergue wasn't encouraging when told of my choice to walk, even suggestion the 7-10 km walk to Vilagarcia and then taking the train because the rest of the way was not good.
With low expectations I started the walk. The weather was very nice and the walk along the estuary leaving Vilanova was fine. In fact the walk to and through Vilagarcia was very similar to other stages of the Coastal route. Leaving Vilagarcia one is directed to a secondary road that parallels the major highway following the coastline. It rises slightly and provides occasional views of the estuary. The road is like a continuous village with sidewalks on both side and a couple bars and restaurants. This stretch is several kms long and the sidewalks end less than a km before the end where you are directed onto the local trail system of Catoira which gradual takes you down to the estuary and a beautiful nature trail that follows the Ulla River for several kms taking you past the historic Torres do Oeste. If there was an albergue in Catoira this would make a perfect shorter stage but here are hotels in Vilagarcia and Catoira that provide options. After the river trail ends you are in a eucalyptus forest path for another km before coming out on some paved roads in Vilar which eventually lead to the final stretch of 7-8 kms on a paved back road that follows the railway. This was a very peaceful stretch when I walked. A total of 3 cars passed, and a couple trains. Along this way is a pilgrim friendly bar by the river called Bar Playa Fluvial which serves seafood.
At Pontecesures you join the Camino Portuguese. I stayed there at the very nice xunta albergue. This stage was not difficult since it is relatively well signed and relatively flat and as pleasant as any of the coastal stages. The distance was not a factor after walking many similar stages but this one can be shortened with a private stay. It's unfortunate that this walking stage is perceived differently than any other camino walking stage but understandable when one experiences the promotion of the unique pilgrim experience of the "maritime" option. I encourage future Variante Espiritual pilgrims to give consideration to opcion pie.
With low expectations I started the walk. The weather was very nice and the walk along the estuary leaving Vilanova was fine. In fact the walk to and through Vilagarcia was very similar to other stages of the Coastal route. Leaving Vilagarcia one is directed to a secondary road that parallels the major highway following the coastline. It rises slightly and provides occasional views of the estuary. The road is like a continuous village with sidewalks on both side and a couple bars and restaurants. This stretch is several kms long and the sidewalks end less than a km before the end where you are directed onto the local trail system of Catoira which gradual takes you down to the estuary and a beautiful nature trail that follows the Ulla River for several kms taking you past the historic Torres do Oeste. If there was an albergue in Catoira this would make a perfect shorter stage but here are hotels in Vilagarcia and Catoira that provide options. After the river trail ends you are in a eucalyptus forest path for another km before coming out on some paved roads in Vilar which eventually lead to the final stretch of 7-8 kms on a paved back road that follows the railway. This was a very peaceful stretch when I walked. A total of 3 cars passed, and a couple trains. Along this way is a pilgrim friendly bar by the river called Bar Playa Fluvial which serves seafood.
At Pontecesures you join the Camino Portuguese. I stayed there at the very nice xunta albergue. This stage was not difficult since it is relatively well signed and relatively flat and as pleasant as any of the coastal stages. The distance was not a factor after walking many similar stages but this one can be shortened with a private stay. It's unfortunate that this walking stage is perceived differently than any other camino walking stage but understandable when one experiences the promotion of the unique pilgrim experience of the "maritime" option. I encourage future Variante Espiritual pilgrims to give consideration to opcion pie.