Kiwi-family
{Rachael, the Mama of the family}
- Time of past OR future Camino
- walking every day for the rest of my life
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Those are the same stages I did, Rachael. I'd really recommend stopping in Mieres on the last stage, it's a really long day if you do it in one hit. It actually spoiled my whole experience of the Salvador, I was so miserable on the last day I just wanted to finish, stuff myself with food in Oviedo and go home. Mieres is quite a pleasant little town, I regretted not spending the night there instead of having two nights in Oviedo (which I found quite a dull town).
Hope the maps aren't weighing you down too much
Well, Stuart, I will chock up your comparison of Mieres and Oviedo to fatique-induced delusion.
But to each his own, of course. My only point to Rachel would be that if Kiwi-family is a fan of pre-Romanesque churches, the palace and church up on Mt. Naranco are world class, nothing like them anywhere else. (This is probably one of my three favorite drumbeats to repeat on this forum).
I really was jaded by the time I reached Oviedo! I'll happily admit it! In Mieres I was in the mood for good cider, food, people so it appealed. In Oviedo I was exhausted, feeling rather cynical towards the more esoteric aspects of pilgrimage (long story) and was ready for home without the 2 day wait.
I'll admit it is a beautiful city centre (suburbs are a bit ugly even by Spanish standards), it just didnt have the same magic for me that, say, Leon did.
Funny how different people can perceive things so differently!
And there we always agreeThe Naranco complex is amazing, never seen anything like it. It just blew me away.
I'd add San Julian/Santuyano too. I walked round with my jaw hanging open. Breathtaking, I'll never forget seeing the frescoes for the first time.
The Camara Santa is very special too. I loved the pilgrim cemetery outside as well. The cathedral museum I found depressing, so much wealth & power built off so many awful acts. The peace and simplicity of Naranco was a real antidote to it.
Santa Catalina de Lena and the church at Ujo are lovely as well.
First day done. To La Robla and with our backtracking to look at wildlife and faffing about and running round the bridge at La Seca (didn't see any otters Rebekah, just lost a hat - story is on the blog) the GPS tells us it ended up as 30.7km. Didn't seem so long - I think we are in good shape.
Definitely going to the churches from Oviedo - no question about it! After Eunate being closed, Leon cathedral being left for another visit, I've told the kids a day in Oviedo is a must! Stages are looking OK - although I am aware we haven't started proper climbing yet! That said, the kids have been playing on the playground next to the albergue for a couple of hours since we arrived - so they are obviously not exhausted!
We were given the bandanas and ponchos in red plastic cases at the bar in Carbajal. He said they were from some association I didn't catch!
La Robla to Poladura......so the truth is we were wondering when on earth the mountains were actually going to start. We got to Buiza...and soon enough we had mouths wide open. It was sooooo beautiful. Weather was perfect and we just didn't know where to look! We kept stopping to take pics. We sat down so we could just take it all in.
The way marking is excellent. Looks like some arrows and splotches on rocks are very recently applied. Even without the guide, you would find it hard to get lost - but the guide is a nice insurance!
So glad to be doing the short hop to Pajares tomorrow so we can sit outside all afternoon and just LOOK!
Albergue at La Robla was fantastic - we slept in til nearly 8am which was a treat after the Frances.
Albergue at Poladura has other pilgrims grizzling about cold showers and we're wondering if there will be bedbugs - but it's nicer than some of the Baztan offerings!
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