Stages of the first part of the Via de La Plata

[laineylainey]

A favour to ask from some of those who have walked the Via de La Plata. I have bought the CSJ little book and downloaded some of the useful guides on this forum. I am thinking of doing a bit of the Via de la Plata next year (September?) and just wondered if someone would share their own stages from Seville for around 16-18 days walking? Also is the route from Seville to Astorga or Seville to Santiago?
Any tips about this route?
thanks in advance!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, laineylainey,

I walked the Vdlp years ago and posted my stages: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

I should say that these are shorter stages than what I would likely do now, having realized about 5 years ago that I really enjoy longer days, but it gives you some idea. Look at gronze also. There are some other more recent reports pinned to the top of the Vdlp subforum.

About Astorga... The Vdlp north of Zamora splits into the "official Vdlp," and the Sanabrés. The official Vdlp joins with the Francés in Astorga, but the overwhelming majority of people, in my experience, take the "left branch" and continue up through Ourense.

So does this mean Granada this year and Sevilla next year? Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Vdlp splits a bit after Salamaca and from there you keep on it to Astorga and then take the Frances to Santiago, or you leave VDLP to take the Sanabres towards Ourense and make it to Santiago that way.

I don’t have my guidebook (Gerald Kelly, does the job) but here goes from memory.

Sevilla by bus for 10km to ease into the first day to Santiponce and from there walked to Guillena, then:

Castilblanco, then taxi for 16km to entrance of Berrocal park and
Almaden
Real de la Jarra
Monesterio
Fuente de cantos
Zafra
Villafranca de los barros
Merida
Aljucen
Alcuezar
Aldea del cano (short day)
Caceres
Train to Canaveral since the albergue on the embalse was/is closed
Grimaldo (where I tore my meniscus and had to end but was heading to Galisteo)

Then the plan was:
Carcaboso
An albergue off Camino before Caparra in Oliva de Plasencia (they do pick ups and bring you back in the morning where you left off).
Aldeanueva

And then I can’t remember what I had planned.

I like 23km a day, and I do not do well in the heat, hence the stage and taxis I took. There is all sorts of talk about how awful the exit out of Sevilla is: looked just fine from the bus. But I was glad not to have walked 30km in the heat on day 1. And then the 16km from Castiblancomtomthe entrance of the park: you will find taxi phone numbers at the albergue and many people to share it with you. Taxi picked us up at the bar where we had breakfast before heading out for the day.

This is a beautiful route, but hot, hot, hot. Even starting April 1st (and apparently still hot today). You will have to carry a lot of water, and manage it, and I would recimmend a reflective umbrella. Mine came out at noon and by 1pm I was suffering despite having it.

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

Here are my stages from Sevilla up to Salamanca
1 Sevilla Guillena 22.5km
2 Guillena - Castilblanco 18km
3 Castilblanco Almaden de la Plata 30( first 15 km by taxi)
4 Almaden El Real de la Jara 15
5 El Real De la Mata Monesterio 20
6 Monesterio Fuente de Campos 21
7 Fuente de Campos Zafira 24,5
8 Zafira Villafranca de los Barros 19
9 Villafranca Torremejia 27,5
10Torremejia Merida 16
11Merida Aljucen 16
12Aljucen Alcuescar 20
13 Alcuescar Valdesalor 26,5
14 Valdesalor Cäsar de Casares 23
15 Cäsar Canaveral 33 (Albergue at the Embalse was closed)
16 Canaveral Galisteo 28
17 Galisteo Hotel Asturias 28 (hotel picks you up at the arc)
18 Hotel Asturias Aldenuevo Del Camino 14?
19 Aldenuevo Calzada de Beja 20
20 Calzada Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 18
21 Fuenterroble San Pedro de Rosales 28
22 San Pedro Salamanca 20?

If you go to Astoria you can continue on the Via Frances.
In Granja de Moruela you can take the Camino Sanabres, which is very beautiful and less crowded than the CF. In Montamarta you can take a shortcut to Tabara. I did that but it was not a nice walk. The path from Granja to Tabara seems to be beautiful

 

[laineylainey]

Thank Laurie, I will definitely have a look at your post. As for long v short days. I am not one for getting anywhere early, unless there is something to see; I don't know what else to do apart from a bit of washing! I like arriving around 4pm but then I haven't really walked that much early afternoon in temps over 25-30 degrees so I am thinking that perhaps the early stages of the VDLP may be hotter than I have experienced so far and necessitate earlier finishes? I would like to do this walk in 2 stages if at all possible - half 2018 and half the following year. (Gw!) I also want to factor in an extra day in Caceres? And for sure an extra day starting off in Seville.
Yes, I am still finishing off the short trip to Granada beginning of December and I need another plan, after all I have been back 2 weeks.....!!!
Eaine

 

[laineylainey]

Here are my stages from Sevilla up to Salamanca
1 Sevilla Guillena 22.5km
2 Guillena - Castilblanco 18km
3 Castilblanco Almaden de la Plata 30( first 15 km by taxi)
4 Almaden El Real de la Jara 15
5 El Real De la Mata Monesterio 20
6 Monesterio Fuente de Campos 21
7 Fuente de Campos Zafira 24,5
8 Zafira Villafranca de los Barros 19
9 Villafranca Torremejia 27,5
10Torremejia Merida 16
11Merida Aljucen 16
12Aljucen Alcuescar 20
13 Alcuescar Valdesalor 26,5
14 Valdesalor Cäsar de Casares 23
15 Cäsar Canaveral 33 (Albergue at the Embalse was closed)
16 Canaveral Galisteo 28
17 Galisteo Hotel Asturias 28 (hotel picks you up at the arc)
18 Hotel Asturias Aldenuevo Del Camino 14?
19 Aldenuevo Calzada de Beja 20
20 Calzada Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 18
21 Fuenterroble San Pedro de Rosales 28
22 San Pedro Salamanca 20?

If you go to Astoria you can continue on the Via Frances.
In Granja de Moruela you can take the Camino Sanabres, which is very beautiful and less crowded than the CF. In Montamarta you can take a shortcut to Tabara. I did that but it was not a nice walk. The path from Granja to Tabara seems to be beautiful

Antonius, many thanks for that, it is so useful. Can I ask when do you walk and at what time of year?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Unless you are walking Late October to mid-March, you do not want to be walking much after 1pm. Lots of time for napping and introspection. And you will never have seen your laundry dry so quickly. Plus, nowhere to sit and rest along the way, cerainly not in a cafe nor in the shade.

I forgot an etapa in my list: Zafra to Torremejia where there is a lovely albegue with ancient Roman statues embeded in the outside walls!

 

[laineylainey]

Vdlp splits a bit after Salamaca and from there you keep on it to Astorga and then take the Frances to Santiago, or you leave VDLP to take the Sanabres towards Ourense and make it to Santiago that way.

I don’t have my guidebook (Gerald Kelly, does the job) but here goes from memory.

Sevilla by bus for 10km to ease into the first day to Santiponce and from there walked to Guillena, then:

Castilblanco, then taxi for 16km to entrance of Berrocal park and
Almaden
Real de la Jarra
Monesterio
Fuente de cantos
Zafra
Villafranca de los barros
Merida
Aljucen
Alcuezar
Aldea del cano (short day)
Caceres
Train to Canaveral since the albergue on the embalse was/is closed
Grimaldo (where I tore my meniscus and had to end but was heading to Galisteo)

Then the plan was:
Carcaboso
An albergue off Camino before Caparra in Oliva de Plasencia (they do pick ups and bring you back in the morning where you left off).
Aldeanueva

And then I can’t remember what I had planned.

I like 23km a day, and I do not do well in the heat, hence the stage and taxis I took. There is all sorts of talk about how awful the exit out of Sevilla is: looked just fine from the bus. But I was glad not to have walked 30km in the heat on day 1. And then the 16km from Castiblancomtomthe entrance of the park: you will find taxi phone numbers at the albergue and many people to share it with you. Taxi picked us up at the bar where we had breakfast before heading out for the day.

This is a beautiful route, but hot, hot, hot. Even starting April 1st (and apparently still hot today). You will have to carry a lot of water, and manage it, and I would recimmend a reflective umbrella. Mine came out at noon and by 1pm I was suffering despite having it.

Thanks so much for that. What time of year did you walk? I agree about the taxi out of Seville. Why the taxi to Berrocol park?

 

[Bradypus]

I am walking the VDLP at the moment and started in Sevilla almost two weeks ago. For my first 3 days temperatures reached 32-33C. Slightly lower now but still uncomfortable for a Scot more used to cool damp climates. Heavy going at first.

I walked the whole 30km from Castilblanco to Almaden but most people that day took a taxi to El Berrocal and walked from there - and sent their packs ahead by taxi. With temperatures over 30C, nowhere to eat en route and only one reportedly unreliable water source midway I can hardly blame them. I arrived at about 5.30pm exhausted, hot and very uncomfortable despite setting out with 4 litres of water. Fortunately the tap at the forest house was working that day.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I left Sevilla on April first.

Why taxi to the Berrocal? 1) And forst and formost, I a, a 23 km girl. Doing 30km on flat terrain in pleasant temps would be uncomfortable for me and I would be swearing during the last 7. In th heat, and with the beast of the hill at the end of this this day, no way. 2) The first 16km to the entrance of the parc are along a straight National route with no services and nothing special to look at. 3) There are no services, or anywhere to replenish water bottles on those 30km, so lots of extra weight to carry.

 

[laineylainey]

@Bradypus, how great to hear from you on the VDLP. Thanks so much for the current update especially with relation to the temps. So you started beginning of October and it was still really hot, so that sort of decides for me, as @Anemone del Camino suggested, that my own trip next year will need to be October rather than September, and be aware that days walking will be influenced mainly be the weather?
Hope it goes well and perhaps you are going to give some updates on your journey? Where are you now?
Last question - are you enjoying this camino?

 

[laineylainey]

I left Sevilla on April first.

Why taxi to the Berrocal? 1) And forst and formost, I a, a 23 km girl. Doing 30km on flat terrain in pleasant temps would be uncomfortable for me and I would be swearing during the last 7. In th heat, and with the beast of the hill at the end of this this day, no way. 2) The first 16km to the entrance of the parc are along a straight National route with no services and nothing special to look at. 3) There are no services, or anywhere to replenish water bottles on those 30km, so lots of extra weight to carry.

Thanks for that. Makes perfect sense.

 

[maggiec]

A favour to ask from some of those who have walked the Via de La Plata. I have bought the CSJ little book and downloaded some of the useful guides on this forum. I am thinking of doing a bit of the Via de la Plata next year (September?) and just wondered if someone would share their own stages from Seville for around 16-18 days walking? Also is the route from Seville to Astorga or Seville to Santiago?
Any tips about this route?
thanks in advance!

It IS a long, flat boring walk at first so take heaps of water with you. I walked Sep/Oct last year in searing heat. It starts to warm up at about 10 o’clock and there is no shade. I took a sun reflective Birdie Pal umbrella for sun protection and it was a lifesaver!!! Drops temperature underneath by up to seven degrees. No cafes inbeteeen on this walk so take snacks and water. You can read my blog on my website https://margaretcaffyn.com.au
Also I found the guidebook a bit lacking so I also used Camino

A favour to ask from some of those who have walked the Via de La Plata. I have bought the CSJ little book and downloaded some of the useful guides on this forum. I am thinking of doing a bit of the Via de la Plata next year (September?) and just wondered if someone would share their own stages from Seville for around 16-18 days walking? Also is the route from Seville to Astorga or Seville to Santiago?
Any tips about this route?
thanks in advance!

It IS a Long flat and hard walk! I did it in Sept/Oct last year in searing heat. There is no shade and I was so grateful for my sun reflective Birdie Pal umbrella (a last minute purchase) it drops the temperature underneath by up to seven degrees. You need to take plenty of water. 3-4 litres. It starts to heat up by 10 o’clock. You can read my blog on my website
https://margaretcaffyn.com.au
Also found the book a bit lacking so used an app called Via de la Plata Premium. It is really helpful with photos, places to stay, elevation maps etc. if you are on limited time and are worried about this stage, start further on. Buen Camino!

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

I walked starting 25 March and it was hot in the first weeks after Sevilla. It got better when we got more to the north.
The walk out of Sevilla was not much worse than other walks out of cities. I had also enough time to speak d some time in the Roman ruins in Santiponce (Italics) This was a nice side trip.

 

[domigee]

I am walking the VDLP at the moment and started in Sevilla almost two weeks ago. For my first 3 days temperatures reached 32-33C. Slightly lower now but still uncomfortable for a Scot more used to cool damp climates. Heavy going at first.

I walked the whole 30km from Castilblanco to Almaden but most people that day took a taxi to El Berrocal and walked from there - and sent their packs ahead by taxi. With temperatures over 30C, nowhere to eat en route and only one reportedly unreliable water source midway I can hardly blame them. I arrived at about 5.30pm exhausted, hot and very uncomfortable despite setting out with 4 litres of water. Fortunately the tap at the forest house was working that day.

How nice to hear from you @Bradypus , I had been wondering how you were getting on (with a tinge of envy of course ).
Yes, that is how I recall it, quite hard those distances in the heat and nowhere to stop en route...

For us the weather turned a few days before Salamanca (Carcaboso I think), after a big thunderstorm the temperature dropped from 36+ to....around 12 and we really felt the cold!

I hope the same happens to you, it does make for easier walking
Hang on in there and all the best.

 

[laineylainey]

So, as someone who doesn't necessarily do whole caminos, (although I have!) but enjoys every step none the less, and doesn't need to see Santiago again, I have 16-18 days, where would you recommend starting to avoid perhaps the initial heatwave? My times for walking are limited to Sept/October normally so by the sounds of it starting at Seville, at this time of the year and earlier in Sept is going to be too hot for this Irish woman in Fermanagh used to one week of Summer in May and rain for most of the rest of the year!

 

[laineylainey]

It IS a long, flat boring walk at first so take heaps of water with you. I walked Sep/Oct last year in searing heat. It starts to warm up at about 10 o’clock and there is no shade. I took a sun reflective Birdie Pal umbrella for sun protection and it was a lifesaver!!! Drops temperature underneath by up to seven degrees. No cafes inbeteeen on this walk so take snacks and water. You can read my blog on my website https://margaretcaffyn.com.au
Also I found the guidebook a bit lacking so I also used Camino


It IS a Long flat and hard walk! I did it in Sept/Oct last year in searing heat. There is no shade and I was so grateful for my sun reflective Birdie Pal umbrella (a last minute purchase) it drops the temperature underneath by up to seven degrees. You need to take plenty of water. 3-4 litres. It starts to heat up by 10 o’clock. You can read my blog on my website
https://margaretcaffyn.com.au
Also found the book a bit lacking so used an app called Via de la Plata Premium. It is really helpful with photos, places to stay, elevation maps etc. if you are on limited time and are worried about this stage, start further on. Buen Camino!

Thanks so much for that and your blog is great!

 

[peregrina2000]

So, as someone who doesn't necessarily do whole caminos, (although I have!) but enjoys every step none the less, and doesn't need to see Santiago again, I have 16-18 days, where would you recommend starting to avoid perhaps the initial heatwave? My times for walking are limited to Sept/October normally so by the sounds of it starting at Seville, at this time of the year and earlier in Sept is going to be too hot for this Irish woman in Fermanagh used to one week of Summer in May and rain for most of the rest of the year!

Starting in Salamanca or Zamora and continuing on the Sanabrés might get you to more temperate climate. The two days from Salamanca to Zamora are kind of brutal, alongside the highway with few stops so starting in Zamora might be more pleasant but then you miss the lovely city of Salamanca! I am not a weather expert, but starting in Mérida or Cáceres further south might be ok. Gronze has a good listing of stages for estimating a 16-18 day chunk of it. https://www.gronze.com/via-plata

But if you are opening up the possibility of totally different caminos, you've got lots of options further north. Invierno might be a good idea. Or Olvidado from Bilbao. Or Lebañiego/Vadiniense from San Vicente de la Barquera (the couple of days in the Picos de Europa rival the stretch from Poladura to Arbás). The Camino de Madrid is another possibility, but you might hit a heat wave at the start there, too. These are all solitary, but very nice.

 

[laineylainey]

Laurie, many thanks for that. Now all those other possibilities are definitely worth chewing over. I think the VDLP was appealing because of some of the cities and flatter in parts than this years' fabulous walk on the Salvador and Primitivo, but realistically the weather and walking conditions are for me more important. I also hate road walking although I know nowadays it cannot be escaped on a lot of the camino roads - but 2 days between Salamanca and Zamora road walking would not appeal. Although I would love to visit Salamanca so I suppose a more touristy approach - arrive in Salamanca see the sights then bus to Zamora.
However thanks for the Gronze link I will have a look at that, I have after all a lot of time to think about the next walk!

 

[peregrina2000]

but 2 days between Salamanca and Zamora road walking would not appeal. Although I would love to visit Salamanca so I suppose a more touristy approach - arrive in Salamanca see the sights then bus to Zamora.

Just to clarify -- actually, those stages have very little road walking, it's just that they are always near the highway. And there are all these little annoying diversions when you get to highway interchanges, making you walk around and up and over to give cars their easy access. But if you like wide open spaces and endless vistas on the horizons, marred in one direction by a highway, it is fine.

 

[laineylainey]

Great .thanks again Laurie and all othets for such good useful information. This forum is invaluable for sharing what the guide books often can't.

 

[Bradypus]

For us the weather turned a few days before Salamanca (Carcaboso I think), after a big thunderstorm the temperature dropped from 36+ to....around 12 and we really felt the cold!

I hope the same happens to you, it does make for easier walking

Looks like history repeating itself. I am in Carcaboso packing up ready for a long stage to Cáparra and beyond. The forecast for today is much colder with lots of rain. Personally I'd be happier without the rain but there is no doubt that the land is ready for it after a long dry time.

 

[MileHighPair]

I agree that for a walk of three weeks, Salamanca would be a great place to start. If you would like to split the 70-ish km from Salamanca to Zamora into 3 days, you can stop at Casa Saso the first night and at Villanueva de Campean the second night. Zamora has several worthwhile museums. I've blogged this trip twice, once in 2016 and once in 2017, both in the spring: ourboatleavestheharbor.blogspot.com.
Buen Camino!

 

[domigee]

Looks like history repeating itself. I am in Carcaboso packing up ready for a long stage to Cáparra and beyond. The forecast for today is much colder with lots of rain. Personally I'd be happier without the rain but there is no doubt that the land is ready for it after a long dry time.

Yes, I wasn't wishing you rain of course, just cooler temperatures
Hope it's going well.

 

[hel&scott]

So, as someone who doesn't necessarily do whole caminos, (although I have!) but enjoys every step none the less, and doesn't need to see Santiago again, I have 16-18 days, where would you recommend starting to avoid perhaps the initial heatwave? My times for walking are limited to Sept/October normally so by the sounds of it starting at Seville, at this time of the year and earlier in Sept is going to be too hot for this Irish woman in Fermanagh used to one week of Summer in May and rain for most of the rest of the year!

We loved our walk on the Vdlp in Sept/Oct and I will be heading back that way next year to do it again. Still debating where to start, my daughter is punting for starting in Merida and the section from Merida to Zamora was extreamly beautiful and historic, she doesn't have time for us to start in Seville again. We may see you out there.

 

[laineylainey]

We loved our walk on the Vdlp in Sept/Oct and I will be heading back that way next year to do it again. Still debating where to start, my daughter is punting for starting in Merida and the section from Merida to Zamora was extreamly beautiful and historic, she doesn't have time for us to start in Seville again. We may see you out there.

Thanks for that. Merida is definitely a possible starting point. And it also leaves a nice chunk for the following walk. Oh no now I am planning 2019!!!

 

[laineylainey]

I agree that for a walk of three weeks, Salamanca would be a great place to start. If you would like to split the 70-ish km from Salamanca to Zamora into 3 days, you can stop at Casa Saso the first night and at Villanueva de Campean the second night. Zamora has several worthwhile museums. I've blogged this trip twice, once in 2016 and once in 2017, both in the spring: ourboatleavestheharbor.blogspot.com.
Buen Camino!

Thanks for the link to your blog!

I agree that for a walk of three weeks, Salamanca would be a great place to start. If you would like to split the 70-ish km from Salamanca to Zamora into 3 days, you can stop at Casa Saso the first night and at Villanueva de Campean the second night. Zamora has several worthwhile museums. I've blogged this trip twice, once in 2016 and once in 2017, both in the spring: ourboatleavestheharbor.blogspot.com.
Buen Camino!

 

[domigee]

We loved our walk on the Vdlp in Sept/Oct and I will be heading back that way next year to do it again. Still debating where to start, my daughter is punting for starting in Merida and the section from Merida to Zamora was extreamly beautiful and historic, she doesn't have time for us to start in Seville again. We may see you out there.

We too started walking from Mérida (after spending a few days in Sevilla of course). It was to (try!) and beat the weather, it was already hotter than we expected beg. of June. It leaves you with 800 km instead of 1000. Enjoy!

 

[Bradypus]

Hope it's going well.

Thank you for the good wishes. Unfortunately I started having knee problems a little before Baños de Montemayor which grew steadily worse during the day until it was clear I could go no further. I had already decided to stop in Salamanca so returning home three or four days early is no great disaster. I will return to complete the VDLP some other time.

 

[laineylainey]

We too started walking from Mérida (after spending a few days in Sevilla of course). It was to (try!) and beat the weather, it was already hotter than we expected beg. of June. It leaves you with 800 km instead of 1000. Enjoy!

Hi, thanks for that. Did you walk to Astorga and then the Frances or trun left after Zamora?

 

[laineylainey]

Where would be recommended to spend any extra days (2 or 3), given it looks as though there are many "must see" cities. I am thinking about between Merida and Zamora?

 

[domigee]

Hi, thanks for that. Did you walk to Astorga and then the Frances or trun left after Zamora?

No, I followed the Sanabres, didn't go to Astorga.. Mérida is nice, loads of Roman stuff, I love Cáceres and my favourite is Salamanca.
Oh, forgot to say: Plasencia is lovely too, but not directly on the VdlP. We did a detour to visit it.

 

[domigee]

Thank you for the good wishes. Unfortunately I started having knee problems a little before Baños de Montemayor which grew steadily worse during the day until it was clear I could go no further. I had already decided to stop in Salamanca so returning home three or four days early is no great disaster. I will return to complete the VDLP some other time.

Oh bummer! But as you say, not a great disaster, better to rest that knee!
And it gives you an excuse to go back

 

[laineylainey]

No, I followed the Sanabres, didn't go to Astorga.. Mérida is nice, loads of Roman stuff, I love Cáceres and my favourite is Salamanca.
Oh, forgot to say: Plasencia is lovely too, but not directly on the VdlP. We did a detour to visit it.

Thanks for that. Yes I think a couple pf extra days is something I need to factor in to my trip.

 

[happymarkos]

Hi, laineylainey,

I walked the Vdlp years ago and posted my stages: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

I should say that these are shorter stages than what I would likely do now, having realized about 5 years ago that I really enjoy longer days, but it gives you some idea. Look at gronze also. There are some other more recent reports pinned to the top of the Vdlp subforum.

About Astorga... The Vdlp north of Zamora splits into the "official Vdlp," and the Sanabrés. The official Vdlp joins with the Francés in Astorga, but the overwhelming majority of people, in my experience, take the "left branch" and continue up through Ourense.

So does this mean Granada this year and Sevilla next year? Buen camino, Laurie

Hi peregrina
thank you for the link to the stages which I will study along with Gerald Kelly's book which has maps and lots of detail.
Most of the discussion in this thread is on walking later in the year. I am planning an early March departure from Seville expecting to have cold and some rain but no really hot days; is this wishful thinking?
happymarkos

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi peregrina
thank you for the link to the stages which I will study along with Gerald Kelly's book which has maps and lots of detail.
Most of the discussion in this thread is on walking later in the year. I am planning an early March departure from Seville expecting to have cold and some rain but no really hot days; is this wishful thinking?
happymarkos

When I started one year in Sevilla on May 1, I had to wear my lambswool gloves till 10 or 11 every morning! Another year, leaving in mid April, it was much warmer. I think that early March would be unlikely to have really hot days, but the weather is crazy as you know.

 

[happymarkos]

When I started one year in Sevilla on May 1, I had to wear my lambswool gloves till 10 or 11 every morning! Another year, leaving in mid April, it was much warmer. I think that early March would be unlikely to have really hot days, but the weather is crazy as you know.

Thank you

 

[Portach]

A favour to ask from some of those who have walked the Via de La Plata. I have bought the CSJ little book and downloaded some of the useful guides on this forum. I am thinking of doing a bit of the Via de la Plata next year (September?) and just wondered if someone would share their own stages from Seville for around 16-18 days walking? Also is the route from Seville to Astorga or Seville to Santiago?
Any tips about this route?
thanks in advance!

 

[JohnMcM]

Hi peregrina
thank you for the link to the stages which I will study along with Gerald Kelly's book which has maps and lots of detail.
Most of the discussion in this thread is on walking later in the year. I am planning an early March departure from Seville expecting to have cold and some rain but no really hot days; is this wishful thinking?
happymarkos

If you are starting early March, it may be helpful to take into account when the Easter dates are next year.

During the Easter festivities/holidays/religious observations I'd expect there to be an impact upon usual day-to-day public services, shop hours and such like.

Buen Camino

 

[happymarkos]

If you are starting early March, it may be helpful to take into account when the Easter dates are next year.

During the Easter festivities/holidays/religious observations I'd expect there to be an impact upon usual day-to-day public services, shop hours and such like.

Buen Camino

Thank you John
I have checked as suggested and Easter thursday is 29 March ending Easter Monday 2 April.
I see there are lots of other feast days on the calendar in Spain as well and as my knowledge of the areas is poor will just wait and see.
regards

happymarkos

 

[C clearly]

Easter thursday is 29 March ending Easter Monday 2 April.

You can count on the entire week being very busy, including the weekend before.

 

[Donna Sch]

Thanks so much for that. What time of year did you walk? I agree about the taxi out of Seville. Why the taxi to Berrocol park?

I walked the highway stretch and if you do it first thing in the morning it is actually quite a pretty walk. The road is quiet too.
If the forecast is not too awful and you are used to walking 30 km it's not that bad. The hill at the end is a bastard but it's really only 20 minutes out of your life (OK, an hour for some people). I walked in June during a heatwave. I was lucky though in that clouds seemed to find me.

Re the walk out of Sevilla to Santiponce. You have the option of walking through Camas or taking the river path. I took the river path and really enjoyed it. But I was lucky enough to be walking with another pilgrim which made me feel a bit safer.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

. I had already decided to stop in Salamanca so returning home three or four days early is no great disaster. I will return to complete the VDLP some other time.

Sorry to read that your camino had to end at such a beautiful part of the VdlP, Bradypus.
A question; do you know if the abergue in Banos, (the one sharing the building with the VdlP museum), is open again?

 

[Bradypus]

A question; do you know if the abergue in Banos, (the one sharing the building with the VdlP museum), is open again?

Sorry - no idea about that. I stopped in Banos for lunch but had meant to stay further up the hill at Puerto de Bejar. Therefore I did not ask about it. Unfortunately neither the private albergue or the brand-new municipal albergue at Puerto de Bejar were open or showing contact information for hospitaleros. No response from two Casas Rurales either. I think the extra distance I walked trying to find an open alternative contributed to my knee problem.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Sorry - no idea about that. I stopped in Banos for lunch but had meant to stay further up the hill at Puerto de Bejar. Therefore I did not ask about it.

I’m sorry to hear that. You certainly had a tough time. I hope you get the chance to continue your camino.
Perhaps someone else will have information about the Baños albergue. I am hoping to stay there next year. It was one of my favourite albergues on the VdlP when I stayed there on my first journey in 2012; (another being Fuenterroble which would have been your next destination probably). We were just two in the albergue that night, the other pilgrim. walking, was a professor from Barcelona University. I remember with great pleasure the stimulating conversation we had over Menu del Dia and a bottle of wine that night. One of those fortuitous chance meetings that characterise the camino experience. making it so memorable.

 

[domigee]

Is it this one? We didn't stay there in 2015 because there was no sign of life but looks like it's open all year round...
https://www.gronze.com/extremadura/caceres/banos-montemayor/albergue-via-plata
Loved the night we spent in Fuenterroble too . Memorable meal cooked by Italian pilgrims. Oh and the priest gave us a double room cos we were married

 

[Peregrinopaul]

That's the one all right. Thanks for the post Domigee. I'd forgotten all about Gronze.
And I agree with you, Fuenterroble is very special because of the dedication of Fr Blas. To me it had a wonderful almost Medieval monastic feel, and I say that as a plus.

 

[Marietjie]

Hi, laineylainey,

I walked the Vdlp years ago and posted my stages: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

I should say that these are shorter stages than what I would likely do now, having realized about 5 years ago that I really enjoy longer days, but it gives you some idea. Look at gronze also. There are seyome other more recent reports pinned to the top of the Vdlp subforum.

About Astorga... The Vdlp north of Zamora splits into the "official Vdlp," and the Sanabrés. The official Vdlp joins with the Francés in Astorga, but the overwhelming majority of people, in my experience, take the "left branch" and continue up through Ourense.

So does this mean Granada this year and Sevilla next year? Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Lainey,
We
We did part of the VdP from Ourense to Santiago now near the end of September. It was a wonderful experience, beautiful forrests, cool early morning and evening but very warm during daytime. We did not take sleeping bags and never miss it. It was relatively a quiet walk, but never lonely. Sometimes we were alone in the woods but soon catch up with other perigrinos and especially at the Albergues. Our experience of the muncipal Albergues were much better than the private one's most of the time.

 

[Portach]

A favour to ask from some of those who have walked the Via de La Plata. I have bought the CSJ little book and downloaded some of the useful guides on this forum. I am thinking of doing a bit of the Via de la Plata next year (September?) and just wondered if someone would share their own stages from Seville for around 16-18 days walking? Also is the route from Seville to Astorga or Seville to Santiago?
Any tips about this route?
thanks in advance!

My husband and I started walking from Seville on 28th Sept this year, finishing in Salamanca on 22nd October. We found the 30+ temperatures in the afternoon for the first two and a half weeks very difficult to deal with. By 10 a.m. it was getting hot for us, by 12 uncomfortable and walking after 1 p.m. almost unbearable. Everywhere we went people were telling us that these temperatures were unusual for the time of year, that it was normally fresher/cooler by early October. However I would advise against starting before the middle of Sept at the earliest.
We timed our morning start so that we finished before the worst heat of the day, as early as 6 a.m. We know that others started even earlier. Note that sunrise is after 8 at this time of the year, so that meant walking in the dark. A good head light is really important both for way finding and safety on tracks that are uneven. The compensation is the amazing starry skies, beautiful sunrises and wonderful views of the harvest moon. We heard lots of roosters too and had a magic moment when we were joined on the track by a young hare early one morning.
This was our first Camino and we were keen to pace ourselves and enjoy all that was on offer. On our first day we walked the 10k to Santiponce without our backpacks and spent an enjoyable couple of hours in Italica's Roman ruins. We got the bus back to our accommodation in Seville and next morning bussed back to Santiponce and walked the 11k from there to Guillena fully loaded. Our subsequent stages e as follows, distances approx.
To Castillblanco 19k To Almadén 29.5k
To El Real de la Jara 16.6k. To Monasterio 20.7k
To Fuente de Cantos 21.9k. To Zafra 26.1k
To Villafranca 20.7k. To Torremejía 27.6k
To Mérida 16.1. Added a rest day here, lots to see if you like Romans and Visigoths
To Aljucén 17.3k No ATM!
To Alcuéscar 21.1k. To Valdesalor 27.5k
To Casar 23.2k. To Cañaveral 32k
To Riolobos 16k. To Carcaboso 22k
To Oliva de Plasencia 18k. To Aldeanueva 25k
To Calzada de Béjar 22.3k. To Fuenterroble 20.3k
To San Pedro 29.6k. To Salamanca 24.8k Fabulous buildings and history.

Not sure that I would do the detour to Aldeanueva again, it is a one-bar village with not many options for food etc. Others were plan into go to Cáparra and use the taxi option of pick up and drop back next morning offered by the Asturias hostel.

The weather changed abruptly for our last week so the long pants, rain jacket and fleeces we had carried from Seville were rapidly moved to the top of the backpacks!

On this route it is important to plan carefully at weekends. In the small villages the shop may not reopen after 2 pm on Saturday; cafe/bars marked on maps may have limited opening hours weekdays and not open Sunday mornings. Also may not have an ATM so wise to have 3-4 days cash at your disposal when leaving a larger town.

It has been a wonderful experience, and we hope to pick it up in the spring.
Hope some of the above is of help and wishing you happy planning and walking.

 

[clearskiescamino]

@laineylainey How are you planning to get to Seville?
I'm thinking of walking the first two weeks from Seville in early 2019.

Thanks

 

[laineylainey]

Sorry Clearskies I have only just seen your question.

I am planning now to start the VdLP in mid September next year starting from Merida and walking 15 days to Zamora plus a couple extra for Salamanca and maybe Seville.
I am flying to Malaga from Belfast and getting the same day a Renfe train to Seville which is less than 2 hours.