Are you planning to walk the Invierno? (Is it _finally_ catching on?)

[VNwalking]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

 

[OzAnnie]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

Hi
I did it last year and ‘would’ do it again if I stay fit enough .
Although apart from one night in Quiroga., where I bumped into an English pilgrim., I saw no others from start to finish either walking or at stops and end of day.
That is not to say no one else was around!
I joined the fb page of Camino de Santiago de Invierno and they appear to have lots of Spanish pilgrims posting ... most of them seem to walk in small groups.
If you want to follow- send a request to join the group

I would definitely keep to 14 or more days to walk it . Possibly 16. Nice to savour the experience in my opinion.

I hope you get to experience it soon
Buen Camino
Annie

 

[alaskadiver]

We leave for Spain April 13th and start walking from Ponferrada on April 17th during Holy Week. Taking 16 days to enjoy it.

 

[Leibniz]

Planning to at the end of August. It will depend when I get to Ponferrada from SJPP though. If time is a bit tight I might end up staying on the CF. But hopefully that won’t happen as I would love to walk the CI.

 

[ranthr]

I follow #caminodeinvierno on instagram and a lot of people put pictures there.
I think I met 5 peregrinos, 2 on bike until A Laxe when I walked the Invierno last May.

 

[Charrito]

Living in Salamanca means that I can 'pop up' (as peregrina2000 puts it!) whenever I get a few days.

I have to thank peregrina2000 and KinkyOne (both of whom I was honoured to meet last year) for getting me into what, for me, is the most beautiful Camino of them all. Since my first walk I've done this route on numerous occasions, not all of it at once, but just picking a few stages here and there.

I'll be doing three or four stages next week, from Monforte de Lemos to Lalín. Later in the year I need to go back with my good friend Juanjo from Salamanca to finish off what we walked together last year.

¡Viva el Camino de Invierno!

 

[VNwalking]

I would definitely keep to 14 or more days to walk it . Possibly 16. Nice to savour the experience in my opinion.

Oh, and by the way, Annie - thank you for the heads-up about @Thomas1962 's accommodation and map resources. He has a file on the Invierno...check it out everyone....
In addition to Laurie's newest update on this guide....

Later in the year I need to go back with my good friend Juanjo from Salamanca to finish off what we walked together last year.

If that's in the first half of June @Charrito, I'll keep an eye out for you.

Buen Camino, one and all...the number are clearly not just my imagination!

 

[Charrito]

If that's in the first half of June @Charrito, I'll keep an eye out for you.

That's more or less the plan.

 

[VNwalking]

That's more or less the plan.

Ha! Wonderful.
Maybe see you out there....

And I just edited the poll so that you can vote @Donna Sch ... and there may be others out there, too.
I know, that's confusing. But once I added the category it would not let me delete it.
So I'll change the settings so the poll closes in a fortnight from 21.3.19

 

[t2andreo]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

When I walked it last year, I stated in the Forum that I was doing it to determine the viability as a means to avoid the last part of the Camino Frances, especially when it was crowded in summer. Well, the Invierno is certainly not crowded, ever.

I , and other Veterans in the Forum seeking to promote the Invierno seem to have succeeded. Yeah us!

We hope use of the invierno spreads and not only relieves some of the crowding form the Frances, but also increases the number of folks who do a Camino.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I considered it back in 2015 but I thought Peg might be too anxious (Are you SURE this is the way? Are we there yet?) Things are probably fine now but we're not planning on any new caminos yet.

 

[Charrito]

When I walked it last year, I stated in the Forum that I was doing it to determine the viability as a means to avoid the last part of the Camino Frances, especially when it was crowded in summer. Well, the Invierno is certainly not crowded, ever.

I , and other Veterans in the Forum seeking to promote the Invierno seem to have succeeded. Yeah us!

We hope use of the invierno spreads and not only relieves some of the crowding form the Frances, but also increases the number of folks who do a Camino.

 

[Charrito]

When it comes to promoting the Camino de Invierno, I am really caught between two stools:

On the one hand, I want to tell people what a wonderful camino this is, with some incredible stages, amazing scenery, marvellous people, beautiful towns and villages, and very few peregrinos.

On the other hand, being completely selfish, I would love to keep this as our ‘secret’!

I remember the first time I walked the Variante Espiritual del Camino Portugués some years ago. What a fantastic alternative to the normal Camino Portugués, with the wonderful fishing village of Combarro, the hard but superb climb up to the monastery in Armenteira, the descent of the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga to Ribadumia, the voyage by boat from Vilanova de Arousa . . . . Now this route is in serious danger of becoming overused, with dozens and dozens of peregrinos heading off the normal Camino Portugués after Pontevedra. It’s no longer quite so enjoyable. The same has happened with the Camino Inglés from El Ferrol.

For me, the Camino de Invierno is by far the best camino of them all. I know that others will tell me that the Olvidado or San Salavador are still mainly unknown, but I’m happy to have discovered the beauty of the Invierno.

 

[t2andreo]

I agree that it is certainly among the most scenic, beautiful and rewarding. However, at present, it is under-used and, as such, lacks enough amenities. While I prefer it not become like the Camino Frances, I do think more facilities that pilgrims might use would be a good thing.

The communities along this route are proud of their history and pleased that the Camino de Invierno has been rediscovered. However, they are still coming up to speed on supporting pilgrims.

Patience. It will get there.

 

[VNwalking]

lacks enough amenities

I'm looking at a guide right now that shows sufficient choice in places to stop, and there are places to stay, and to eat. Maybe not huge choice, but enough. I can't see needing anything more. But then I'm OK about sleeping in a polideportiveo or even under a church porch (which I've admittedly never had to do).
I for one hope it does not get commercialized. Right now local people are still happy to see pilgrims...how long has it been since that happened on the Frances (or even the Portugues)?

For me, the Camino de Invierno is by far the best camino of them all.

Shhhhhhhh....

 

[t2andreo]

I considered it back in 2015 but I thought Peg might be too anxious (Are you SURE this is the way? Are we there yet?) Things are probably fine now but we're not planning on any new caminos yet.

The route marking is as good as any you will find. Only the number and range of accommodations and places to eat / drink needs to improve slightly.

I agree with others who are anxious about more amenities. However, in my view and experience, having to go off-route for lodging is not desirable, to me at least.

Hope this helps.

 

[NorthernLight]

I agree with others who are anxious about more amenities. However, in my view and experience, having to go off-route for lodging is not desirable, to me at least.

Consider yourself as in the ranks of ancient pilgrims who frequently diverted off 'the direct path', to access shelter, food, water, to avoid road tolls, etc. Wherever you need to walk, in order to get there, is the route.

 

[Charrito]

I'm looking at a guide right now that shows sufficient choice in places to stop, and there are places to stay, and to eat. Maybe not huge choice, but enough. I can't see needing anything more. But then I'm OK about sleeping in a polideportiveo or even under a church porch (which I've admittedly never had to do).
I for one hope it does not get commercialized. Right now local people are still happy to see pilgrims...how long has it been since that happened on the Frances (or even the Portugues)?

There are plenty of places to stay, but not too many albergues. As far as places to eat are concerned, there are some excellent (and cheap) restaurants, where many of us have eaten time after time and will heartil recommend.

The only real problem is with a couple of the longer stages, where there are few places to stop off for refreshments.

A Rúa to Quiroga is one such stage, but you have my suggested alternative (in the guide) of walking on from A Rúa to Montefurado the day before, then getting the train back to A Rúa, and doing the opposite journey on the following day: train from A Rúa to Montefurado, then continuing on foot. The only place open is the summer-only chiringuito by the river in Soldón.

If you walk all the way from Monforte de Lemos to Chantada there is nowhere to stop for a coffee, soft drink or beer until Belesar. The alternative, followed by others on here, is to carry on past Monforte and stay the night in one of the casas rurales or in Escairón. This cuts the next day's walking down considerably.

I'm pretty sure that I know every single watering hole, hostal, pensión and hotel between Ponferrada and Santiago! If you need any help, please drop me a line!

Shhhhhhhh....

I'll keep it quiet!

 

[alaskadiver]

I'll keep it quiet!

Between Monforte de Lemos and Chantada you can split the stage and spend the night at a pension that also has a restaurant. That's what we are doing.

 

[Charrito]

Between Monforte de Lemos and Chantada you can split the stage and spend the night at a pension that also has a restaurant. That's what we are doing.

Which pensión? Are you referring to Pensión Pacita? That's between Quiroga and Monforte.

 

[Hansel]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

Learning all the time, doing the primitive this year, ( auto correct, wouldn't let me have an o at the end of primitive ! ) , it's now on my radar for another walk, later this year, dependent on trekking Kilimanjaro
next year,
Bill

 

[peregrina2000]

Between Monforte de Lemos and Chantada you can split the stage and spend the night at a pension that also has a restaurant. That's what we are doing.

Which pensión? Are you referring to Pensión Pacita? That's between Quiroga and Monforte.

Charrito, I'm pretty sure Alaskadiver is staying at Torre Vilariño. I remember because I had urged her to take that short walk to the lovely viewpoint over the Miño, Cabo do Mundo -- the same one I have nagged you to go to. But Ribeirasacra has told me that it is overgrown and the views are not so great. I'm hoping to walk the Invierno this summer, and I also hope I will have time to take the detour and go check it out for myself, unless one of you guys does it first!

I've been doing a bit more snooping on this and it looks like there are nice spots nearby with great views, but I have seen several comments that no one is tending to the mirador.

about 3.5 km from Torre Vilariño -- https://www.adegasmoure.com/

sorry to hijack the thread, VN, but I suppose difusion of info about the Invierno is not too far off topic.

 

[jimmyc]

Planning to at the end of August. It will depend when I get to Ponferrada from SJPP though. If time is a bit tight I might end up staying on the CF. But hopefully that won’t happen as I would love to walk the CI.

My daughter-in-law and I are planning to walk from Ponferrada at that time.

 

[Annette london]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

Sounds like a wonderful Camino
We're starting on the 23rd June ....giving ourselves about 12 days to walk to Santiago
So far, we've managed to walk most of the well known Caminos before the crowds arrived ........after this year, who knows but I have my eye on the Olvidado!

Last year, the San Salvidor was magical, with very few walking, but again I think this might be about to change due to all the positive comments and information on the forum!

 

[Isca-camigo]

Maybe. I was going back this Feb to walk to Siguenza on the Lana but after a change of job I have 8 days in August so may walk from Ponferada to Monforte at a slow pace, this is my 3rd attempt at it, it nearly happened in 2010 after starting in SJPDP and it could have happened in 2017 but I had stay at home and nurse a poorly pet. Even if I don't do it this year it's definetly on my radar for a 20/21 winter Camino starting way back.

 

[VNwalking]

sorry to hijack the thread, VN, but I suppose diffusion of info about the Invierno is not too far off topic.

Hijack away to your heart's content, Laurie.
I love it.
(And am taking notes......)

And so far 12 people have said they'll walk this year.
Definitely an up-tick in numbers - perhaps from the gradual coming together of fortuitous conditions, both in each of us individually, and the external ones of infrastructure and information. Many of us relative newbies have probably been gestating this one for a while. I've been wanting to walk this way since 2015, and finally I can; it's just taken some years for things to come together to allow it.

 

[alaskadiver]

Charrito, I'm pretty sure Alaskadiver is staying at Torre Vilariño. I remember because I had urged her to take that short walk to the lovely viewpoint over the Miño, Cabo do Mundo -- the same one I have nagged you to go to. But Ribeirasacra has told me that it is overgrown and the views are not so great. I'm hoping to walk the Invierno this summer, and I also hope I will have time to take the detour and go check it out for myself, unless one of you guys does it first!

I've been doing a bit more snooping on this and it looks like there are nice spots nearby with great views, but I have seen several comments that no one is tending to the mirador.

about 3.5 km from Torre Vilariño -- https://www.adegasmoure.com/

sorry to hijack the thread, VN, but I suppose difusion of info about the Invierno is not too far off topic.

Yeup, Torre Vilariño. Double room with private bath. Just off the trail.

 

[Charrito]

Yeup, Torre Vilariño. Double room with private bath. Just off the trail.

OK, now I understand, although it's not really a pensión!

 

[Charrito]

Hijack away to your heart's content, Laurie.
I love it.
(And am taking notes......)

And so far 12 people have said they'll walk this year.
Definitely an up-tick in numbers - perhaps from the gradual coming together of fortuitous conditions, both in each of us individually, and the external ones of infrastructure and information. Many of us relative newbies have probably been gestating this one for a while. I've been wanting to walk this way since 2015, and finally I can; it's just taken some years for things to come together to allow it.

Keep off the Invierno!!!!!!!!!!! It's a terrible camino, and you'll hate it! I'm going to edit all my posts about this route, speak negatively about it and tell everyone to go somewhere else.

Only joking, of course. Go for it! Or, as they say over the other side of the pond: "Way to go!". Never more appropriate in the case of this 'way'.

 

[VNwalking]

Keep off the Invierno!!!!!!!!!!! It's a terrible camino, and you'll hate it!

Yeah. Right. We'll just have to see for ourselves won't we?

 

[Charrito]

Yeah. Right. We'll just have to see for ourselves won't we?

Unfortunately, yes!

 

[VNwalking]

Hee hee...sooorrrryyyyy.
(But not really).

 

[AlanSykes]

I'm looking at a guide right now that shows sufficient choice in places to stop, and there are places to stay, and to eat. Maybe not huge choice, but enough. I can't see needing anything more. But then I'm OK about sleeping in a polideportiveo or even under a church porch (which I've admittedly never had to do).
I for one hope it does not get commercialized. Right now local people are still happy to see pilgrims...how long has it been since that happened on the Frances (or even the Portugues)?

Shhhhhhhh....

I walked it for the first time last November and loved it - there was a new delight virtually every day. Other than once on the Inglés, it was the first time I'd not spent the last week or so of my Camino on the Sanabrés, and the change was another plus.

I found the infrastructure perfectly adequate - not much tarmac, a bed every night, and usually a bar or two en route: what more does one need? The only problem I had was the Torre Vilariño, a few hours from Monforte de Lemos, which advertised that it was open all year, but had a note on the door saying it was closed for the whole of November, so I had to carry on to Escairon and the very comfortable O Ruso.

Highlights included the views from (and to) Cornatel castle, the breathtaking post industrial landscape of As Médulas, the wonderful riverscapes of the Sil and the Miño, the el Grecos at Montforte de Lemos, the vacas de Diomondi (in the pic), the views over all four of Galicia's provinces from Monte Faro and many excellent meals and friendly locals. Sitting drinking a well-earned glass of their own tasty godello in the Adega do Veiga bodega looking over the vertiginous vine terraces of the Miño gorge after the lung and knee busting descent and ascent to and from Belesar was possibly my favourite half hour of the Invierno.

Highly recommended

 

[Magwood]

I shall be walking the Invierno mid May with @Ninja, after setting off from Alicante on the Lana and then hopping across to walk the Olvidado from Cistierna. It sounds as though it will be a fitting finale to this camino trio.

 

[Charrito]

My reply to alansykes:

I walked it for the first time last November and loved it - there was a new delight virtually every day. I couldn’t agree with you more! Other than once on the Inglés, it was the first time I'd not spent the last week or so of my Camino on the Sanabrés, and the change was another plus.


I found the infrastructure perfectly adequate - not much tarmac, there are a couple of stages (O Barco to A Rúa, for example, which are mainly on tarmac) a bed every night, and usually a bar or two en route: what more does one need? Not a lot! The only problem I had was the Torre Vilariño, a few hours from Monforte de Lemos, which advertised that it was open all year, but had a note on the door saying it was closed for the whole of November, so I had to carry on to Escairon and the very comfortable O Ruso. I think I was the first person to stay in O Ruso, and it’s my alternative that Laurie has in the Invierno Guide.

Highlights included the views from (and to) Cornatel castle, the breathtaking post industrial landscape of As Médulas, the wonderful riverscapes of the Sil and the Miño, the el Grecos at Montforte de Lemos Restaurante O Grelo, you mean? Another of my recommendations, though it’s a bit pricey, the vacas de Diomondi (in the pic), the views over all four of Galicia's provinces from Monte Faro and many excellent meals and friendly locals. 100% in agreement with you there! Sitting drinking a well-earned glass of their own tasty godello in the Adega do Veiga bodega looking over the vertiginous vine terraces of the Miño gorge after the lung and knee busting descent and ascent to and from Belesar was possibly my favourite half hour of the Invierno. How true! It was so hot the first time I walked up from Belesar that I’m afraid I needed a beer or two rather than a glass of their excellent wine. Since then I have sampled both the Godello and Mencía there, both extremely drinkable.


Highly recommended I second that motion!

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked it for the first time last November and loved it - there was a new delight virtually every day. Other than once on the Inglés, it was the first time I'd not spent the last week or so of my Camino on the Sanabrés, and the change was another plus.

I found the infrastructure perfectly adequate - not much tarmac, a bed every night, and usually a bar or two en route: what more does one need? The only problem I had was the Torre Vilariño, a few hours from Monforte de Lemos, which advertised that it was open all year, but had a note on the door saying it was closed for the whole of November, so I had to carry on to Escairon and the very comfortable O Ruso.

Highlights included the views from (and to) Cornatel castle, the breathtaking post industrial landscape of As Médulas, the wonderful riverscapes of the Sil and the Miño, the el Grecos at Montforte de Lemos, the vacas de Diomondi (in the pic), the views over all four of Galicia's provinces from Monte Faro and many excellent meals and friendly locals. Sitting drinking a well-earned glass of their own tasty godello in the Adega do Veiga bodega looking over the vertiginous vine terraces of the Miño gorge after the lung and knee busting descent and ascent to and from Belesar was possibly my favourite half hour of the Invierno.

Highly recommended

While the rest of us blabber away about the Invierno’s charms, here comes Alan once again with his glorious prose that sums it all up in a nutshell.

But if anyone stays in Torre Vilariño and has some time to enjoy the area, the walk to the lookout looks nice and, even if it may be overgrown so that the full horseshoe can’t be seen, it is a pretty view!
https://www.galiciamaxica.eu/galicia/lugo/cabomundo/

Ribeira Sacra. Mirador do Cabo do Mundo

Mirador do Cabo do Mundo

turismo.ribeirasacra.org

 

[Charrito]

Some people don't half nag! Tranquila, Laurie: en vez de andar la semana que viene ¡pienso coger el coche para ir a todos esos sitios! ¿Quieres fotos?

¿Vale?

Besos de charrito!

 

[VNwalking]

el Grecos at Montforte de Lemos

El Grecos?! Where??

While the rest of us blabber away about the Invierno’s charms, here comes Alan once again with his glorious prose that sums it all up in a nutshell.

Yeah, some of us are a wee bit envious about that prose, Alan. Me too.
Some of us can write well enough, while others actually have a gift. Thanks for sharing it.

 

[Charrito]

El Grecos?! Where??
Yeah, some of us are a wee bit envious about that prose, Alan. Me too.
Some of us can write well enough, while others actually have a gift. Thanks for sharing it.

It's O Grelo.

 

[VNwalking]

Oh, darn, @Charrito....
You burst my anticipatory bubble. I thought he was going on about paintings.

Edit: Wait wait, stop the presses...he WAS!

College of Nosa Señora da Antiga - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm GOING!
(Sorry about the yelling, but this is wonderful...)

 

[Charrito]

Oh, darn, @Charrito....
You burst my anticipatory bubble. I thought he was going on about paintings.

Edit: Wait wait, stop the presses...he WAS!

College of Nosa Señora da Antiga - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm GOING!
(Sorry about the yelling, but this is wonderful...)

Right, my bad!!!!!!! Having said that, O Grelo is highly recommended for a bit of a splurge!

 

[Charrito]

Oh, darn, @Charrito....
You burst my anticipatory bubble. I thought he was going on about paintings.

Edit: Wait wait, stop the presses...he WAS!

College of Nosa Señora da Antiga - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I'm GOING!
(Sorry about the yelling, but this is wonderful...)

Before or after the recommended visit to the Wine Museum in Monforte?

 

[VNwalking]

We might not get any farther than a table at O Grelo, right?...
(This sounds like a wonderful town.)

 

[Charrito]

We might not any farther than O Grelo, right?...
(This sounds like a wonderful town.)

Monforte has everything!!!!!

 

[VNwalking]

I'm sending you a PM because a mod would scold me.
Not everything.
Most fortunately.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

@VNwalking sent us to a wikipedia page indicating where the El Grecos are and the page shows one of his paintings. An image of the other can be seen here https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/...icion_de_la_Virgen_a_san_Lorenzo_El_Greco.jpg

The URL of the Wikipedia page is (because I usually like to see URLs as text): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/College_of_Nosa_Señora_da_Antiga

 

[Charrito]

I'm sending you a PM because a mod would scold me.
Not everything.
Most fortunately.

Received, and replied to!

 

[peregrina2000]

Some people don't half nag! Tranquila, Laurie: en vez de andar la semana que viene ¡pienso coger el coche para ir a todos esos sitios! ¿Quieres fotos?

¿Vale?

Besos de charrito!

Oh, wow, that would be great! But I hate to be the cause for a decision not to walk! Just send a list of all the little walkable detours that one could take to catch that glorious view from Torre Vilariño. Your reward will be a heap of praise in the Invierno 2020 forum guide. And maybe stop in at this place, which looks like a spectacular location. https://www.adegasmoure.com/

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Oh, wow, that would be great! But I hate to be the cause for a decision not to walk! Just send a list of all the little walkable detours that one could take to catch that glorious view from Torre Vilariño. Your reward will be a heap of praise in the Invierno 2020 forum guide. And maybe stop in at this place, which looks like a spectacular location. https://www.adegasmoure.com/

Buen camino, Laurie

Don't worry, I'll be walking!!!!!!! I still want my reward, though!

 

[Charrito]

If we all keep on posting in this thread, and the other one, Ivar will have to include us in the most popular topics tomorrow!

Come on, let's go for it!

 

[Charrito]

Who's the person who voted NO???????????????????? Booooooooooooo!!!!!!!

 

[Hansel]

I walked it for the first time last November and loved it - there was a new delight virtually every day. Other than once on the Inglés, it was the first time I'd not spent the last week or so of my Camino on the Sanabrés, and the change was another plus.

I found the infrastructure perfectly adequate - not much tarmac, a bed every night, and usually a bar or two en route: what more does one need? The only problem I had was the Torre Vilariño, a few hours from Monforte de Lemos, which advertised that it was open all year, but had a note on the door saying it was closed for the whole of November, so I had to carry on to Escairon and the very comfortable O Ruso.

Highlights included the views from (and to) Cornatel castle, the breathtaking post industrial landscape of As Médulas, the wonderful riverscapes of the Sil and the Miño, the el Grecos at Montforte de Lemos, the vacas de Diomondi (in the pic), the views over all four of Galicia's provinces from Monte Faro and many excellent meals and friendly locals. Sitting drinking a well-earned glass of their own tasty godello in the Adega do Veiga bodega looking over the vertiginous vine terraces of the Miño gorge after the lung and knee busting descent and ascent to and from Belesar was possibly my favourite half hour of the Invierno.

Highly recommended

Good to hear that there isn't much tarmac,
Bill

 

[ranthr]

You all make me want to go there again.!

 

[VNwalking]

You all make me want to go there again.!

Go soon, ranthr, 'cause it looks like the hoardes are coming.
So I'm heading off from Ponferrada in early June.
I'm actually surprised at the number of yeses - this year, let alone 'some time later...'

Who's the person who voted NO???????????????????? Booooooooooooo!!!!!!!

I thought it was you @Charrito, to dissuade the innocent.

 

[Charrito]

Go soon, ranthr, 'cause it looks like the hoardes are coming.
So I'm heading off from Ponferrada in early June.
I'm actually surprised at the number of yeses - this year, let alone 'some time later...'


I thought it was you @Charrito, to dissuade the innocent.

OK, that's a fair cop! I admit it!!!!!!!!!!!!! English humour on a sunny Saturday morning here in beautiful Salamanca, with the Via de la Plata a kilometre in front of my flat!

 

[VNwalking]

We're up to 19 who will be walking this year - @peregrina2000 , you may not have to be patient too much longer for this to be more traveled.
Edit: Walk it now. I just noticed this on http://caminodeinvierno.es/ : "El Camino de Invierno se acondicionará entre el 2017 y el 2019 y se promocionará en el 2020. Según el Plan Director de la Xunta de Galicia."

And to whet everyone's appetite...
I've been confused by the church people keep mentioning after Monforte, and now I see why. It's actually two old and interesting churches, one a National Monument and the other 'just' a church. Oh.

Thanks to this beautiful website, I'm straightened out:
https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/routes/romanesque-route

Here's a snippet of what it says, with links that have more detail:

Church of San Paio de Diomondi
(Declarada Monumento Nacional. en 1931)
https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/recurso_en/iglesia-de-san-paio-de-diomondi

An inscription inside the tympanum of the main door shows the date of 1170. The earliest documentary sources refer to the 8th century and the bishop Odoario. Ferdinand II and Alfonso IX also benefited from donations and privileges to the monastery, being confirmed by Popes as Alejandro III and Lucio III. Now it depends on the bishopric of Lugo and serves as parish church, after being restored to the bishopric on one occasion by King Fernando III in 1231. The early 13th century is the date when it was finished.

Church of San Martiño da Cova
https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/recurso_en/iglesia-de-san-martino-de-a-cova

Located in the famous meander of the river Miño called Cabo do Mundo. Currently only the Romanesque church is kept. It was a monastery of regular canons of St. Augustine, between the 13th century and 14th century. It was as a Priory dependent on the Cathedral of Lugo, abolished in 1824 and subsequently relegated to the current church after auctioning their goods with the confiscation of Mendizábal.

 

[peregrina2000]

The second church is about 2 km from Torre de Vilariño, the hotel rural in between Monforte and Chantada. It is also on the same path to that Miño River overlook at Cabo do Mondo that I have been blabbing on about. So San martiño de Cova would require a pretty substatial detour but Diomondi is about three minutes off the Camino. You just have to make sure to pay attention when you get to the bus shelter at the top of the path on the way down to the river, because some forum members have missed it.

 

[VNwalking]

So San martiño de Cova would require a pretty substatial detour

But a fun side trip/evening amble if you were staying in TdV, right?

 

[KinkyOne]

Consider yourself as in the ranks of ancient pilgrims who frequently diverted off 'the direct path', to access shelter, food, water, to avoid road tolls, etc. Wherever you need to walk, in order to get there, is the route.

I walked Invierno back in 2014 and I never had to "divert" from the Camino (OK, 200 meters maybe) to find a place to sleep. I really don't know what @t2andreo is talking about here. It seems to me like we were walking completely different Camino and he walked it 4 years later!

 

[KinkyOne]

Between Monforte de Lemos and Chantada you can split the stage and spend the night at a pension that also has a restaurant. That's what we are doing.

You can split this stage with staying in at least three of them!

 

[peregrina2000]

VNwalking said:
But a fun side trip/evening amble if you were staying in TdV, right?

Well, I am glad I checked, because now there are THREE churches involved.

First, Diomondi, you will pass that on the way with about a 2 minute detour (when you get to the bus stop, don’t start down the path, keep going straight, you will see the church immediately). This is after Torre Vilariño and before the trail named the Codos de Belesar, which takes you down to the Miño.

Second, the one that’s near the Mirador Cabo do Mundo, a short walk from Torre Vilariño.
I posted a google map on another thread that shows the route from Torre Vilariño to mirador do Cabo do Mundo (overgrown as it may be). This is San Lorenzo de Fión. Looks like 45 minutes, 3.2 km round trip to go to both places. And @Ribeirasacra says the views are better further down, so going past the church might also be a good idea.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...pril-camino-invierno-route.59121/#post-685296

Third, the church you identified, VN, San Martiño da Cova. On googlemaps that’s 3 km away, further down towards the river, sort of in the same direction as the other two sites, but not on the same route. So if you were planning to take a rest day in Torre Vilariño it would be easy to put together a nice walking route that would take you to all of these places, but for an post-camino walk going to all three might be a bit much unless you had a very short day, like maybe from Monforte?!

 

[ranthr]

This was a beautiful church as well

 

[VNwalking]

Well, I am glad I checked, because now there are THREE churches involved.

Well, now I feel a good deal less stupid. Thanks, Laurie - if you're confused, what hope do the rest of us have?


And thanks also for the clarification - this looks great. Welll...maybe pass on San Martiño da Cova as it's a ways away. But the other two are easier to reach.

 

[peregrina2000]

This was a beautiful church as well

Ranthr what church is that?

 

[ranthr]

Laurie, the small chuch near @Ribeirasacra house where I stayed the night between Monforte and Chantada. The best picture with the clock tower was too big to upload.

 

[ranthr]

This i the Diomondi I think.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie, the small chuch near @Ribeirasacra house where I stayed the night between Monforte and Chantada. The best picture with the clock tower was too big to upload.

Ah, yes,that’s yet another church in the neighborhood, @VNwalking. It’s Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño, a few km off the descent on the Codos de Belesar trail. It is another romanesque jem, but likely to be too far out of your way. It is right next door to what used to be the Casa Rural de Santo Estevo, but @Ribeirasacra has asked that I remove mention of it because they are closing up shop. Such a pity, it was a really great place.

And just to make sure we don’t get even more confused, the church of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño should not be confused with Santo Estevo de Ribas do Sil, which is now a parador, probably the most gorgeous building in the most gorgeous setting of my parador visits! That is if you like romanesque churches, walking along the Sil River Gorge, visiting monasteries hidden on the banks of the river, etc etc.

 

[Eric G]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

I may switch to the CI if the herds are overwhelming once I arrive in Ponferada. I walked it in September and loved it. Only saw 4 other pilgrims the entire length.
Which brings me to a question... if I take the CI from Ponferada (starting in SJPDP) would you receive a Compostella from the CF, CI or both?
Thanks

 

[alaskadiver]

I may switch to the CI if the herds are overwhelming once I arrive in Ponferada. I walked it in September and loved it. Only saw 4 other pilgrims the entire length.
Which brings me to a question... if I take the CI from Ponferada (starting in SJPDP) would you receive a Compostella from the CF, CI or both?
Thanks

You get one Compostela with the original starting point.

 

[Eric G]

You get one Compostela with the original starting point.

Thank you

 

[ranthr]

I may switch to the CI if the herds are overwhelming once I arrive in Ponferada. I walked it in September and loved it. Only saw 4 other pilgrims the entire length.
Which brings me to a question... if I take the CI from Ponferada (starting in SJPDP) would you receive a Compostella from the CF, CI or both?
Thanks

When you arrive at the pilgrim office try to specify that you walked the Invierno from
Ponferrada. For the statistics at least.

 

[VNwalking]

And just to make sure we don’t get even more confused,

Ha ha, I am already...so there are four - wait, five - right?
San Lorenzo de Fión, the one that’s near the Mirador Cabo do Mundo, a short walk from Torre Vilariño.
San Martiño da Cova, 3 km away from Torre Vilariño, further down towards the river than SLdF
Diomondi, the one witth the 2 minute detour from the bus stop, after Torre Vilariño.
Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño, a few km off the the Codos de Belesar trail (I'm not clear where this is, except near riberiasacra's CR).

And then Santo Estevo de Ribas do Sil...which is the Parador...where?

(I. Want. A. Paper. Map. GPS tracks drive me nuts...)

 

[Eric G]

When you arrive at the pilgrim office try to specify that you walked the Invierno from
Ponferrada. For the statistics at least.

Will do.
Thanks

 

[peregrina2000]

Ha ha, I am already...so there are four - wait, five - right?
San Lorenzo de Fión, the one that’s near the Mirador Cabo do Mundo, a short walk from Torre Vilariño.
San Martiño da Cova, 3 km away from Torre Vilariño, further down towards the river than SLdF
Diomondi, the one witth the 2 minute detour from the bus stop, after Torre Vilariño.
Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño, a few km off the the Codos de Belesar trail (I'm not clear where this is, except near riberiasacra's CR).

And then Santo Estevo de Ribas do Sil...which is the Parador...where?

(I. Want. A. Paper. Map. GPS tracks drive me nuts...)

The parador is on the Sil River, which merges with the Miño River in As Peares. From that merge point, it is called the Miño and it continues to Ourense and on to the ocean. It forms the border with Portugal from some kms east of Melgaço all the way to the ocean. It's the river separating Valença do Minho from Tui, and it's the river that goes between Caminha and wherever pilgrims take the boat to in Spain, and finally out to the ocean. So the Miño/Minho has a very good Camino pedigree.

Invierno pilgrims get to see the Sil walking from Barco to Quiroga. At that point, the Sil River heads southwest, and the camino heads northwest till it gets to the Minho.

IMO, the most spectacular part of the Sil is the part near the monastery of Santo Estevo (so that would be west of the part we see from the Invierno). The gorge is beautiful with lots of stopping points, most famous one being Balcons de Madrid http://www.turismo.gal/recurso?cod_rec=16167&langId=gl_ES and there are some amazing churches, notably San Pedro de Rocas (not on the river but easy to get to http://www.concelloesgos.com/?id=84 ) and Santa Cristina. https://www.paradadesil.es/index.php/gl/turismo/historia

I know you might have some free time in Spain before or after caminos, VN, so this might be up your alley! Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Some pics of the parador. https://www.parador.es/es/paradores...ntoestevo&utm_term=organico&utm_content=ficha

Two years ago, I got a great price thanks to a tip from a forum member. This parador closes for a couple of months each winter, and they jumpstart spring traffic offering some great deals in early spring. I think my room was under 70. I am not a huge fan of the modern decorations and furnishings, but the building itself and its location are just spectacular!

 

[VNwalking]

So the Miño/Minho has a very good Camino pedigree.

Not to mention its drowned section on the Frances, right?

I notice from your screenshot that there's a Santo Estevo on both the Sil and the Mino near Chantada. Is there a connection?

 

[peregrina2000]

Not to mention its drowned section on the Frances, right?

I notice from your screenshot that there's a Santo Estevo on both the Sil and the Mino near Chantada. Is there a connection?

By “drowned section”, I think you mean Portomarín? Looking at a map of the Miño, it seems to cross four caminos —Primitivo in Lugo, Francés in Portomarín, Invierno in Belesar, Sanabrés in Ourense. I guess we should make that five, since the Caminha crossing on the Variante Espiritual of the Portugués is over the Minho too!

And I am not very good with history of the saints. I do not know why there are two Santo Estevo places so close to each other. They differ dramatically, one is a huge splendid monastery, the other a beautiful but much less imposing church.

 

[VNwalking]

By “drowned section”, I think you mean Portomarín?

Yes, exactly what I was thinking - not knowing about the Primativo section.

I just did some googling:
"Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil was founded in the 6th century by Saint Martín Dumiense. It might have been so, because the Christianization reached Galicia by the south route, through the Roman roads from Baetica to Braga and from here to Astorga and Lugo. The early monasticism also arrived this way. With the privilege of Ordoño II, issued on 12th October of the year 921, the documented history about this monastery begins."

and about Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño:
"The first sources which are known about this former monastery refer to an inventory of the bishopric of Lugo of the 12th century, being a donation by Doña Urraca Fernández. The most outstanding of the current building is its adaptation to the land. It was necessary to reduce the slope, as well as to build a crypt to hold the base of the temple. It was a new solution presented by Maestro Mateo in Galicia with the crypt of the Cathedral of Santiago. No doubt there are many elements that lead us to the art of Maestro Mateo in this church."

But nothing about any connection. In fact, Google was frustrating - there was no information about San Estevan/St. Stephen, but instead just information about the Parador.....

 

[andonius]

I'm planning to walk Camino the Invierno from 8/15 to 8/28 this year.
Hope to find some of you there!!
I will include a full day at Las Medulas (staying two nights ) to dedicate time to explore that wonderful site.

 

[doncolin]

Is it only my imagination, or are many more people about to walk the Invierno this year?
I just read the fourth such statement here this week, and it feels like more of us than usual.
Who's going? Raise your hand high (I just cast my vote...a happy and resounding yes!).

Yes, there are more people walking the Invierno this year, tho' fellow pilgrims remain rare. But this was true of the Portugués 10 years ago and it certainly isn't now! I've just walked it with a friend and daily posts can be found on my blog page here from 17 to 23 May 2019 - https://colindavies.blogspot.com/2019/05/thoughts-from-leon-17519.html.
My friend's many great photos can be found here:-

Geoff Jones’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

And his own blog posts here: https://www.geoffjones.com/category/walks/camino/

 

[Charrito]

Yes, there are more people walking the Invierno this year, tho' fellow pilgrims remain rare. But this was true of the Portugués 10 years ago and it certainly isn't now! I've just walked it with a friend and daily posts can be found on my blog page here from 17 to 23 May 2019 - https://colindavies.blogspot.com/2019/05/thoughts-from-leon-17519.html.
My friend's many great photos can be found here:-

Geoff Jones’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

And his own blog posts here: https://www.geoffjones.com/category/walks/camino/

Not a great deal of walking, as I see it!

 

[doncolin]

Not a great deal of walking, as I see it!

I'm .missing the point of yr not-very-constructive comment. The total distance of this camino is 230-250km, depending on who you read. In 9 or 10 stages. I walked/limped 120 in 6 days and my colleague 143 in 7 days. You can work out the averages and confirm, if u want, that it was not a lot of walking for 2 guys in rheir 70s. More than enough for a Compostela, of course.

 

[Charrito]

I'm .missing the point of yr not-very-constructive comment. The total distance of this camino is 230-250km, depending on who you read. In 9 or 10 stages. I walked/limped 120 in 6 days and my colleague 143 in 7 days. You can work out the averages and confirm, if u want, that it was not a lot of walking for 2 guys in rheir 70s. More than enough for a Compostela, of course.

Sorry, it was my feeble attempt at a humourous comment. I'm no spring chicekn myself (close to 70), but if I have problems with my feet I tend to stay an extra day somewhere and don't attempt ridiculously long stages. I did once have to stop in Pensión Pacita in Borxa do Lor and phone José, the owner of As Viñas in A Pobra do Brollón, to come and pick me up.

Congratulations on completing what, for me, is one of the most beautiful caminos. I'll be up there again in 10 days' time, walking with my wife and a good friend. They both managed it to Monforte de Lemos last year, so that's where we'll be heading out from on Monday June 10.

 

[doncolin]

Thank you for that gracious response. I did wonder if u were being humorous. So easy to misunderstand in short messages.

 

[Charrito]

Thank you for that gracious response. I did wonder if u were being humorous. So easy to misunderstand in short messages.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I would NEVER criticise anyone who undertook to walk any of the caminos, although - to be honest - it does annoy me when I see groups of young people ambling along without any sort of backpack.

 

[doncolin]

I have to admit I don't usually carry buy rucksack, tho' did on the Primitivo - to my cost! Enjoy your next go at the Invierno.