Rodeiro - Silleda: Updates!
Not much to say!
The start: It was cold, and raining from time to time. But it was not muddy through the forest. There are stepping stones where necessary. The (much later) patch between Trasfontao and Silleda is worse. It was on the verge of being flooded: I had to watch my steps carefully. And there is always a lot of insects there.
But let's continue with the part Rodeiro-Lalín. If there still is a dog problem on this Camino, it is in A Ponte de Pedroso (I think. I could have the hamlets mixed up.) Always two or three dogs acting aggressively, unchained. I don't care, but I put myself in the place of a doggo-phobe and that would be frightening. They get near you, they bark, they come from behind when you walk past them... It is all for show, but so annoying. It has always been the same for me in this village.
Lalín: When I reached the PO-533, I followed the signs on the other side of the road for the first time. Normally I turn right and follow the PO-533 into Lalín. Now I know that the Camino takes you on a rodeo behind and above the town, and then down between some small streets, right and left and what-not instead of going straight into the center... not necessary! I get that they want you to see the church of San Martiño de Lalín de Arriba, but boy was there tossing and turning until I got there. Sorry, but I will take my short-cut in the future.
I was happy to see that the way down to the river walk, and out of Lalín, is perfectly marked now. I think most people end this stage in Lalín though, as there is a nice albergue here.
The bridge of Taboada: a heads-up that the calzada will be renovated, according to an article I read in the newspaper in Rodeiro yesterday. You can read about it
here. So it may look a bit different next time you arrive! Gee, they should concentrate on cleaning up the Trasfontao-Silleda-part instead.
Silleda: I stay in Bar-Hostal Toxa again. My least favorite place in Silleda... Some years ago, I dubbed it Hostal Toxic and swore I would never stay here again. But I needed something cheap today. Well it is not 15 euros as it says on Gronze, but 20. Much better room than three years ago: I am surprised. In fact, I didn't recognize the entrance or the corridors at all... I asked the barman: turns out the hostal is in two different buildings! The door next to the café (where I stayed three years ago), and then the other one much further away, around the corner (next to Pastelería Dulce Deza). The rooms and the overall impression in the second building is clearly better. I don't know how they distribute the pilgrims, but... you may end up in Hostal Toxic as well as in Hostal Toxa.
Tomorrow a short stage to Ponte Ulla! I know it is not the Invierno anymore, but I will finish what I started. So I will be back tomorrow as well!