LIVE from the Camino A Sketcher's Camino Madrid

[Stephan the Painter]

A couple days ago I started the Camino Madrid from Segovia. Some of you may recall that I posted a few months ago looking for a relatively flat Camino to test out my body to find out if I could make another try on the Camino Frances where I had been previously defeated by shin splints.

Day 1and 2
So far I am two short stages into it and it’s definitely flat. I did a 12 km day to Los Huertas, and a 21 km day to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

Luckily I picked up a little extra food in Segovia before I left, just because I’m normally cautious. Because in fact there was no store in Los Huertas. Dinner was at the bar which was not open in the morning and there was nothing at all open before the 21 kms to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

I took a slow day getting to Santa Maria, and there was a grocery store. I noticed that they closed at 8 o’clock on my way to the very very nice Rincon - Naif hotel, but when I returned at 7 o’clock, there was a sign on the door saying that they had closed at 6:30. There was a bar in town but they didn’t serve food. I asked some locals and they took me to a place that started serving dinner at 9 o’clock. The point being, though, if you’re doing this route be a bit careful about food and opening times.

Despite the food hassles the first couple days, I’m having a good time . I met one other walker the first day and she and her dog spent the night with me in the Los Huertas albergue, but mostly she is wild camping. A very interesting woman whose blog and Instagram I had looked at a few years ago called @pushbikegirl. Hieke has been on the road for years and bicycled almost everywhere on the planet. She funds her life off donations and the kindness of strangers. She is not heading to Santiago but walking north, then towards Barcelona and then back to Germany for Christmas! Now that’s slow travel!

As noted by previous travelers, I have only run into one English speaker since Segovia . My Spanish is at a very low level, but it’s already improving! It feels good to be able to negotiate the simple things . And despite some people disparaging it, my Spanish knowledge is almost completely from Duolingo.

For logistics, I made a screen link on my iphone to the Gronze.com Camino Madrid Page, and I’m using the excellent Mapy.CZ app for navigation.

I’ve gone over the other Camino Madrid threads for information , but don’t really have a list in my head of artistic and cultural sites that I don’t want to miss on this trail. If anybody can make some specific suggestions I would really appreciate it!

Thanks to @jungleboy and @Camino Chrissy for the Madrid suggestion!

I haven’t sketched so far on the road but I spent a few days in the incredibly beautiful city of Segovia and did several sketches. I had my oil paints in Segovia but shipped those ahead.
:

 

[jungleboy]

Enjoy and thanks for sharing your camino and your art!

I’ve gone over the other Camino Madrid threads for information , but don’t really have a list in my head of artistic and cultural sites that I don’t want to miss on this trail. If anybody can make some specific suggestions I would really appreciate it!

Apart from the usual churches and other highlights (eg the castle at Coca) that you will come across, two places I loved that you might enjoy sketching are the the tree-lined Canal de Castilla leaving Medina de Rioseco (more beautiful than it sounds) and, perhaps especially, the stone tower in Tamariz with the storks’ nests, which falls under one of my favourite camino categories of ‘evocative ruin’. You will hit both of them on the same day!

 

[Kenseh]

A couple days ago I started the Camino Madrid from Segovia. Some of you may recall that I posted a few months ago looking for a relatively flat Camino to test out my body to find out if I could make another try on the Camino Frances where I had been previously defeated by shin splints.

So far I am two short stages into it and it’s definitely flat. I did a 12 km day to Los Huertas, and a 21 km day to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

Luckily I picked up a little extra food in Segovia before I left, just because I’m normally cautious. Because in fact there was no store in Los Huertas. Dinner was at the bar which was not open in the morning and there was nothing at all open before the 21 kms to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

I took a slow day getting to Santa Maria, and there was a grocery store. I noticed that they closed at 8 o’clock on my way to the very very nice Rincon - Naif hotel, but when I returned at 7 o’clock, there was a sign on the door saying that they had closed at 6:30. There was a bar in town but they didn’t serve food. Luckily there was one meat centric restaurant that started serving dinner at 9 o’clock call M – 50, which is where I showed up and had a an ensalada mixta and hamburger with fries.

Despite the food hassles the first couple days, I’m having a good time . I met one other walker the first day and she and her dog spent the night with me in the Los Huertas albergue, but mostly she is wild camping. A very interesting woman whose blog and Instagram I had looked at a few years ago called @pushbikegirl. Hieke has been on the road for years and bicycled almost everywhere on the planet. She funds her life off donations and the kindness of strangers. She also has a dog with her and she’s not heading to Santiago but walking north and then towards Barcelona and then back to Germany for Christmas! Now that’s slow travel!

As noted by previous travelers, I have only run into one English speaker since Segovia . My Spanish is at a very low level, but it’s already improving! It feels good to be able to negotiate the simple things . And despite some people disparaging it, my Spanish knowledge is almost completely from Duolingo.

For logistics, I made a screen link on my iphone to the Gronze.com Camino Madrid Page, and I’m using the excellent Mapy.CZ app for navigation.

I’ve gone over the other Camino Madrid threads for information , but don’t really have a list in my head of artistic and cultural sites that I don’t want to miss on this trail. If anybody can make some specific suggestions I would really appreciate it!

Thanks to @jungleboy and @Camino Chrissy for the Madrid suggestion!

I haven’t sketched so far on the road but I spent a few days in the incredibly beautiful city of Segovia and did several sketches. I had my oil paints Segovia but shipped those ahead.
:View attachment 166508View attachment 166509View attachment 166510

What a NICE sketching!! thank you for sharing : )

 

[J Willhaus]

Glad you are back on the Camino after your rough go (eventually with the bike) last time. I will enjoy following your pilgrimage.

 

[Bill's_Walking]

Buen Camino! I'm looking forward to following your journey through your eyes and hand.

 

[Kirkie]

I too am very happy to see you back on the road, art materials as priorities in your pack! You know now how to pace yourself, hindsight is as good as the optician, no?

 

[Dani7]

Beautiful art. Thank you so much for sharing your journey with us. Buen camino

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi, @Stephan the Painter,
I am very excited to follow your Camino on the Madrid Way. I love reliving my Camino memories, and your walk, words, and sketches will all be highlights for me. I agree with @jungleboy on his suggestions. I would add in a side trip to Valladolid by bus, which drops you off at the outstanding park. The city is beautiful and the Sculpture museum recommended by @peregrina2000 is wonderful.


The stork tower.


A village nearing Sahagan towards the end. I was enamoured by the "patina" of many old structures of days gone by; many made of sticks and clay bricks. (Not sure they are good subjects for sketching, but they caught my eye.)

There are plenty of beautiful churches, cloisters, and castles, as well...and pine forests.

 

[lt56ny]

I would add in a side trip to Valladolid by bus

I have been wondering if I would take that bus to Valladolid when I walk this year. I wonder how I would feel after a 25k day to Puente Duero. Maybe I will try to work it to go to Valdestillas the day before and get to Puente Duero early. Problem with that is I do not know if they will let me leave my backpack in the albergue so early. Guess I will just have to wait and see. I will call ahead to find out if a backpack drop is possible.

​

 

[Camino Chrissy]

have been wondering if I would take that bus to Valladolid when I walk this year.

We enjoyed the diversion of being in beautiful Valladolid as the Madrid route is quite solitary. We did not originally plan to go there, but decided not to pass it up after reading such positive recommendations. We spent the night so our backpacks were not an issue, and it was easy to bus back to the trail the next morning.

 

[MarkyD]

A couple days ago I started the Camino Madrid from Segovia. Some of you may recall that I posted a few months ago looking for a relatively flat Camino to test out my body to find out if I could make another try on the Camino Frances where I had been previously defeated by shin splints.

So far I am two short stages into it and it’s definitely flat. I did a 12 km day to Los Huertas, and a 21 km day to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

Luckily I picked up a little extra food in Segovia before I left, just because I’m normally cautious. Because in fact there was no store in Los Huertas. Dinner was at the bar which was not open in the morning and there was nothing at all open before the 21 kms to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

I took a slow day getting to Santa Maria, and there was a grocery store. I noticed that they closed at 8 o’clock on my way to the very very nice Rincon - Naif hotel, but when I returned at 7 o’clock, there was a sign on the door saying that they had closed at 6:30. There was a bar in town but they didn’t serve food. I asked some locals and they took me to a place that started serving dinner at 9 o’clock. The point being, though, if you’re doing this route be a bit careful about food and opening times.

Despite the food hassles the first couple days, I’m having a good time . I met one other walker the first day and she and her dog spent the night with me in the Los Huertas albergue, but mostly she is wild camping. A very interesting woman whose blog and Instagram I had looked at a few years ago called @pushbikegirl. Hieke has been on the road for years and bicycled almost everywhere on the planet. She funds her life off donations and the kindness of strangers. She is not heading to Santiago but walking north, then towards Barcelona and then back to Germany for Christmas! Now that’s slow travel!

As noted by previous travelers, I have only run into one English speaker since Segovia . My Spanish is at a very low level, but it’s already improving! It feels good to be able to negotiate the simple things . And despite some people disparaging it, my Spanish knowledge is almost completely from Duolingo.

For logistics, I made a screen link on my iphone to the Gronze.com Camino Madrid Page, and I’m using the excellent Mapy.CZ app for navigation.

I’ve gone over the other Camino Madrid threads for information , but don’t really have a list in my head of artistic and cultural sites that I don’t want to miss on this trail. If anybody can make some specific suggestions I would really appreciate it!

Thanks to @jungleboy and @Camino Chrissy for the Madrid suggestion!

I haven’t sketched so far on the road but I spent a few days in the incredibly beautiful city of Segovia and did several sketches. I had my oil paints in Segovia but shipped those ahead.
:View attachment 166508View attachment 166509View attachment 166510

Loving your sketches, enjoy the way. To help avoid shin splints, which I had in 2018, I recommend not to walk too large a distance and certainly not faster than your narural pace.

Also, stay hydrated and after every stop/rest of more than 5 minutes do some stretching of your legs. If you do get shin splints recurring, STOP walking for 3 days, then you should be good to continue and start off with short distance days 10kms max. for first couple of days.

Buen camino

 

[lt56ny]

We enjoyed the diversion of being in beautiful Valladolid as the Madrid route is quite solitary. We did not originally plan to go there, but decided not to pass it up after reading such positive recommendations. We spent the night so our backpacks were not an issue, and it was easy to bus back to the trail the next morning.

Maybe that is the ticket to take the bus and sleep in Valladolid and then bus back to the camino in the morning. Thanks

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Maybe that is the ticket to take the bus and sleep in Valladolid and then bus back to the camino in the morning. Thanks

It is worth the extra time to spend in Valladolid to not feel rushed. It is a lovely city with much to see and do.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Maybe that is the ticket to take the bus and sleep in Valladolid and then bus back to the camino in the morning. Thanks

Or the train, which is what I used.

 

[David Tallan]

I have been wondering if I would take that bus to Valladolid when I walk this year. I wonder how I would feel after a 25k day to Puente Duero. Maybe I will try to work it to go to Valdestillas the day before and get to Puente Duero early. Problem with that is I do not know if they will let me leave my backpack in the albergue so early. Guess I will just have to wait and see. I will call ahead to find out if a backpack drop is possible.

I just walked to Valladolid. I didn't want to bus in the middle of my Camino. So I walked a short day from Puente Duero to Valladolid and a short day from Valladolid to Simancas, giving me plenty of time in Valladolid.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

So, @lt56ny, you now have a choice between taking a bus, a train, or walking.

 

[Cicada]

A couple days ago I started the Camino Madrid from Segovia. Some of you may recall that I posted a few months ago looking for a relatively flat Camino to test out my body to find out if I could make another try on the Camino Frances where I had been previously defeated by shin splints.

So far I am two short stages into it and it’s definitely flat. I did a 12 km day to Los Huertas, and a 21 km day to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

Luckily I picked up a little extra food in Segovia before I left, just because I’m normally cautious. Because in fact there was no store in Los Huertas. Dinner was at the bar which was not open in the morning and there was nothing at all open before the 21 kms to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.

I took a slow day getting to Santa Maria, and there was a grocery store. I noticed that they closed at 8 o’clock on my way to the very very nice Rincon - Naif hotel, but when I returned at 7 o’clock, there was a sign on the door saying that they had closed at 6:30. There was a bar in town but they didn’t serve food. I asked some locals and they took me to a place that started serving dinner at 9 o’clock. The point being, though, if you’re doing this route be a bit careful about food and opening times.

Despite the food hassles the first couple days, I’m having a good time . I met one other walker the first day and she and her dog spent the night with me in the Los Huertas albergue, but mostly she is wild camping. A very interesting woman whose blog and Instagram I had looked at a few years ago called @pushbikegirl. Hieke has been on the road for years and bicycled almost everywhere on the planet. She funds her life off donations and the kindness of strangers. She is not heading to Santiago but walking north, then towards Barcelona and then back to Germany for Christmas! Now that’s slow travel!

As noted by previous travelers, I have only run into one English speaker since Segovia . My Spanish is at a very low level, but it’s already improving! It feels good to be able to negotiate the simple things . And despite some people disparaging it, my Spanish knowledge is almost completely from Duolingo.

For logistics, I made a screen link on my iphone to the Gronze.com Camino Madrid Page, and I’m using the excellent Mapy.CZ app for navigation.

I’ve gone over the other Camino Madrid threads for information , but don’t really have a list in my head of artistic and cultural sites that I don’t want to miss on this trail. If anybody can make some specific suggestions I would really appreciate it!

Thanks to @jungleboy and @Camino Chrissy for the Madrid suggestion!

I haven’t sketched so far on the road but I spent a few days in the incredibly beautiful city of Segovia and did several sketches. I had my oil paints in Segovia but shipped those ahead.
:View attachment 166508View attachment 166509View attachment 166510

Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[lt56ny]

I just walked to Valladolid. I didn't want to bus in the middle of my Camino. So I walked a short day from Puente Duero to Valladolid and a short day from Valladolid to Simancas, giving me plenty of time in Valladolid.

Thanks was the route marked? Do you remember the paths or roads you walked? That sounds like a plan. It seems that going from the camino to Valladolid and returniing are not alot of kilometers. Do you sleep in Simancas, Cigunuela or did you walk all the way to Penaflor?

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks was the route marked? Do you remember the paths or roads you walked? That sounds like a plan. It seems that going from the camino to Valladolid and returniing are not alot of kilometers. Do you sleep in Simancas, Cigunuela or did you walk all the way to Penaflor?

It was marked going to Valladolid with shells and sometimes arrows, but the arrows were going in the opposite direction (from Valladolid). . I used Organic Maps to find the best way to Simancas. I don't remember if that was marked. I slept in Simancas as that seemed to work best for an arrival in Wambas in time to see the site when it was open the next day.

 

[lt56ny]

It was marked going to Valladolid with shells and sometimes arrows, but the arrows were going in the opposite direction (from Valladolid). . I used Organic Maps to find the best way to Simancas. I don't remember if that was marked. I slept in Simancas as that seemed to work best for an arrival in Wambas in time to see the site when it was open the next day.

Thanks, I downloaded Organic Maps and when I see my daughter before I go I will have her teach me how to use it. I am such a techno wizard!!!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

daughter before I go I will have her teach me how to use it. I am such a techno wizard!!!

I am such a tech-not wizard!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Days 3, 4, and 5:

Easter logistical question: It’s the Tuesday before Easter now and the plan was to start walking the Camino Madrid again from Simancas Wednesday. Today I’m on a rest/reorganization day in Valladolid, but I’m undecided on what to do. I know basically everything‘s closed Friday and Sunday, and I’m told the other days in the small towns, if anything is open, it will only be in the morning. I don’t have enough room in my 38L backpack to carry four days of food.
Early next week I will take a train to SJPP to start the Frances, whether I finish the Madrid completely, or not. but what to do between now and Monday?
Thoughts?

And back to our story:
The walk continues to be mostly flat. A mixture of pastoral, farm lands, and the pine forests. Mostly pleasant, although many of the towns looked depressing to me.

The logistics for food especially are still vexing and you really have to plan ahead, checking opening times, etc. It’s all complicated because it’s so near Easter. this is a great Camino for members of the coil club!

After Santa Maria la Real de Nieva I wento Coca to the wonderful sounding big, four room, 16 bed, Albergue there. Unfortunately, it looked like nobody had been by there in a week to clean or anything. The trash was overflowing (which I took out). There were three parties, including a couple from Madrid with a three year old baby, but we all had our own private rooms! To get in, you scan a code and pay and register online, including uploading photos of your documents which took everyone forever.

It had been my goal to walk no more than 20 km a day, but I was exceeding this already, so I decided on a short day to Valdestilla because there was a cheap hotel there. But once I got to the town and a hotel, I found it so ugly and depressing time that I forwarded on to wonderfil albergue at Puente Duero. The poor German woman with a dog was turned away there and had to wild camp a few kilometers out of town.

I haven’t been drawing much, because of the long walking days and time spent hustling for food. The hospitaldario in Puente Duero., despite my horrible Spanish, and her nonexistent English, was able to communicate to me that there were two really nice buildings in both Simancas and Wamba

So the next day, I decided to make a short hike to Samancas, where I did a couple drawings. One slow one, and then one fast.

And now I’m in a hotel room in Valladolid. It was always my plan to stop here where I had sent my suitcase. I had planned to rearrange my hiking equipment after a few days of trial, and then ship said suitcase on to Santiago while I walk the Camino Frances.

 

[jungleboy]

Easter logistical question: It’s the Tuesday before Easter now and the plan was to start walking the Camino Madrid again from Simancas Wednesday. Today I’m on a rest/reorganization day in Valladolid, but I’m undecided on what to do. I know basically everything‘s closed Friday and Sunday, and I’m told the other days in the small towns, if anything is open, it will only be in the morning. I don’t have enough room in my 38L backpack to carry four days of food.
Early next week I will take a train to SJPP to start the Frances, whether I finish the Madrid completely, or not. but what to do between now and Monday?
Thoughts?

It might depend on whether you really want to get some more walking in this week or not before the Francés. If not, and since you have your extra stuff with you now, maybe an idea could be to go to nearby Salamanca and stay there for the rest of the week through Easter. It's a beautiful city with plenty of things for you to sketch, and the closures / lack of food etc won't be problematic as in the villages on the camino. There will no doubt be some fun Semana Santa parades or activities as well.

And back to our story:
The walk continues to be mostly flat. A mixture of pastoral, farm lands, and the pine forests. Mostly pleasant, although many of the towns looked depressing to me.

We also had that impression on the Madrid. It was the first time (on our third camino) that we had really walked through a series of villages that seemed like they were completely dying.

The logistics for food especially are still vexing and you really have to plan ahead, checking opening times, etc. It’s all complicated because it’s so near Easter. this is a great Camino for members of the coil club!

That was true for us as well and especially so being veggies. It had such a remote feel to it despite being quite close to several major towns -- or maybe because of that, as people ended up moving away for better opportunities nearby.

So the next day, I decided to make a short hike to Samancas, where I did a couple drawings. One slow one, and then one fast.

View attachment 166737View attachment 166738

Fantastic drawings!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Stephan, I am disappointed for you that you have been a bit "skunked" on this Camino. My impression is entirely different, although I can relate to some of what you say. I always avoid walking during Easter week and plan my spring Caminos after it is over.
I found beauty in a variety of sights and scrolling through my many photos and I am not at all disappointed in them. I am not an artist, so my perspective is different than yours. Your eye is probably trained to see things that capture your attention for sketching opportunities.
I agree with @jungleboy, your drawings are fantastic and I have been a big fan of all of your many sketches!
I hope whatever you choose to do after leaving Valladolid will lift your spirits for the remainder of your time in Spain.

P.S. I found the huge park in Valladolid a beautiful relaxing respite, and the tour of the remarkable castle in Coca with its self-tour climbing to the top amazing.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

It might depend on whether you really want to get some more walking in this week or not before the Francés. If not, and since you have your extra stuff with you now, maybe an idea could be to go to nearby Salamanca and stay there for the rest of the week through Easter. It's a beautiful city with plenty of things for you to sketch, and the closures / lack of food etc won't be problematic as in the villages on the camino. There will no doubt be some fun Semana Santa parades or activities as well

That sounds like a brilliant idea! I just booked a room.

I do want to get more walking in but I’m really worried it’s just going to be a stressful weekend. It’s also supposed to be cold and rainy . I’ve always wanted to see Salamanca, so I’ll spend five nights there and Monday I’ll ship my luggage to Ivar and transport myself to SJPP. Or maybe finish the Madrid!!

Stephan, I am disappointed for you that you have been a bit "skunked" on this Camino. My impression is entirely different, although I can relate to some of what you say. I always avoid walking during Easter week and plan my spring Caminos after it is over.
I found beauty in a variety of sights and scrolling through my many photos and I am not at all disappointed in them. I am not an artist, so my perspective is different than yours. Your eye is probably trained to see things that capture your attention for sketching opportunities.
I agree with @jungleboy, your drawings are fantastic and I have been a big fan of all of your many sketches!
I hope whatever you choose to do after leaving Valladolid will lift your spirits for the remainder of your time in Spain.

P.S. I found the huge park in Valladolid a beautiful relaxing respite, and the tour of the remarkable castle in Coca with its self-tour climbing to the top amazing.

There was plenty to draw paint on this Camino! I’m only disappointed that the logistics got in the way of me doing more of it! Maybe I sound grumpy but for the most part I’ve had a good time these last five days.

But I think the Easter week logistics are a bit difficult. It’s also cold and rainy for the rest of the week. It pains me, but I think there’s too much of a possibility for extreme discomfort. I’ll just have to come back…
I decided to take @jungleboy suggestion and go to Salamanca. But this afternoon in Valladolid to check out that park despite a drizzle…

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I decided to take @jungleboy suggestion and go to Salamanca.

I think you will enjoy the Parque Campo Grande and possibly your hotel can loan an umbrella "just in case" of more than a drizzle.
I will be in Salamanca for a couple of days in mid-April and am sure we will both love that city.
You knowing quite a bit of rain is forecasted would def be a bit of a drag and put a damper(pun) on long stretches of walking with no options for a sit down with coffee or snack somewhere warm from time to time. Last October I only recall experiencing a half day of rain, which can make a big difference in overall enjoyment.

 

[David Tallan]

Days 3, 4, and 5:

Easter logistical question: It’s the Tuesday before Easter now and the plan was to start walking the Camino Madrid again from Simancas Wednesday. Today I’m on a rest/reorganization day in Valladolid, but I’m undecided on what to do. I know basically everything‘s closed Friday and Sunday, and I’m told the other days in the small towns, if anything is open, it will only be in the morning. I don’t have enough room in my 38L backpack to carry four days of food.
Early next week I will take a train to SJPP to start the Frances, whether I finish the Madrid completely, or not. but what to do between now and Monday?
Thoughts?

And back to our story:
The walk continues to be mostly flat. A mixture of pastoral, farm lands, and the pine forests. Mostly pleasant, although many of the towns looked depressing to me.

The logistics for food especially are still vexing and you really have to plan ahead, checking opening times, etc. It’s all complicated because it’s so near Easter. this is a great Camino for members of the coil club!

After Santa Maria la Real de Nieva I wento Coca to the wonderful sounding big, four room, 16 bed, Albergue there. Unfortunately, it looked like nobody had been by there in a week to clean or anything. The trash was overflowing (which I took out). There were three parties, including a couple from Madrid with a three year old baby, but we all had our own private rooms! To get in, you scan a code and pay and register online, including uploading photos of your documents which took everyone forever.

It had been my goal to walk no more than 20 km a day, but I was exceeding this already, so I decided on a short day to Valdestilla because there was a cheap hotel there. But once I got to the town and a hotel, I found it so ugly and depressing time that I forwarded on to wonderfil albergue at Puente Duero. The poor German woman with a dog was turned away there and had to wild camp a few kilometers out of town.

I haven’t been drawing much, because of the long walking days and time spent hustling for food. The hospitaldario in Puente Duero., despite my horrible Spanish, and her nonexistent English, was able to communicate to me that there were two really nice buildings in both Simancas and Wamba

So the next day, I decided to make a short hike to Samancas, where I did a couple drawings. One slow one, and then one fast.

And now I’m in a hotel room in Valladolid. It was always my plan to stop here where I had sent my suitcase. I had planned to rearrange my hiking equipment after a few days of trial, and then ship said suitcase on to Santiago while I walk the Camino Frances.



View attachment 166737View attachment 166738

They didn't have that online system for Coca when I was there last year. Instead you had to get the key from one of the five people in town who are supposed to have a copy. Unfortunately, that day the folks in the bar didn't have theirs and none of the others seemed available. It took us several hours to get in. I think the fact that responsibility for the albergue now is so distributed might be causing problems. I expect everyone thinks someone else is taking care of it.

Wamba is also very much worth a visit, if you can manage it when it is open. It is a jewel of a pre-Romanesque church.

 

[David Tallan]

I think you will enjoy the Parque Campo Grande and possibly your hotel can loan an umbrella "just in case" of more than a drizzle.
I will be in Salamanca for a couple of days in mid-April and am sure we will both love that city.
You knowing quite a bit of rain is forecasted would def be a bit of a drag and put a damper(pun) on long stretches of walking with no options for a sit down with coffee or snack somewhere warm from time to time. Last October I only recall experiencing a half day of rain, which can make a big difference in overall enjoyment.

Salamanca is renowned, if I recall correctly, for having one of the nicest Plaza Mayor in Spain.

 

[J Willhaus]

I think you might have also really enjoyed Zamora with its many old walls, churches, castle, bridges, etc. as subjects for your art. Also a really strong Semana Santa tradition there, too, so I bet it is already packed with visitors!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We stayed at a very nice little apartment in Coca, and unknowingly at the time, it was a good decision.
Wamba was closed when I went through, so if you still have opportunity, check the days/hours ahead of time. I learned after the fact, they will sometimes open it and allow a private tour.
I love hearing all of the good reports I read for both Salamanca and Zamora as I will be having several tourist days before I start the Sanabres in late April.

 

[naplesdon]

Stephan, I know it would be a stretch to get there by Friday, but I found Medina de Roiseco really fascinating. There is a museum full of religious platforms that are paraded in ritual ceremonies during Easter Week. I am sure the place is crowded with tourist but at least the restaurants and hotels will be open.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Stephan, I know it would be a stretch to get there by Friday, but I found Medina de Roiseco really fascinating. There is a museum full full religious platforms that are paraded in ritual ceremonies during Easter Week. I am sure the place is crowded with tourist but at least the restaurants and hotels will be open.

Someone told me about that on the trail a couple days ago. So that was the other thing I considered. I would’ve made it for Friday night if I restarted from Simancas Wednesday.There is an albergue there, but When I looked for backup hotels, there was nothing available. with rain and cold predicted it didn’t seem like a good risk.

 

[Anniesantiago]

We stayed at a very nice little apartment in Coca, and unknowingly at the time, it was a good decision.
Wamba was closed when I went through, so if you still have opportunity, check the days/hours ahead of time. I learned after the fact, they will sometimes open it and allow a private tour.
I love hearing all of the good reports I read for both Salamanca and Zamora as I will be having several tourist days before I start the Sanabres in late April.

Wamba is awesome. You need to call the night before to make arrangements to see it but it's worth it.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Wamba is awesome. You need to call the night before to make arrangements to see it but it's worth it.

If not this year, some other year. But I’ll remember about the calling ahead, thank you.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I decided to interrupt my Camino Madrid for the Easter holidays because it was just too stressful chasing food and lodging in little towns Easter week. And I lucked out on being able to book a budget room in Salamanca, so that’s where I am today. It’s a beautiful city with lots to draw, although it’s a little cold and drizzly here. Of course there’s also Easter processions constantly during the next four days.

Here’s the last drawing I did in Valladolid, which still counts as the Camino Madrid. On the left is a sketch from the façade of the Iglesia de San Pablo, right next to the amazing National Sculpture Museum, which was recommended above. On the right is a detail from Los Salinas, in Salamanca. Plus a couple pictures from the national sculpture museum to whet your appetite if you’re in that area.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Here’s the last drawing I did in Valladolid, which still counts as the Camino Madrid. On the left is a sketch from the façade of the Iglesia de San Pablo, right next to the amazing National Sculpture Museum, which was recommended above. On the right is a detail from Los Salinas, in Salamanca. Plus a couple pictures from the national sculpture museum to whet your appetite if you’re in that area.

Your newest drawing is incredible and different than many you have done.
I am glad you were able to visit the Sculpture museum and enjoyed it. It was definitely one of my favorite experiences in Valladolid, thanks to Laurie's input; (@DoughnutANZ would probably say the desserts were his.)

You sound happy and more content to be settled in Salamanca for awhile; hoping you will keep sketching and sharing them...enjoy your stay!

 

[islandwalker]

Here’s the last drawing I did in Valladolid,

Stephan, after thoroughly enjoying your paintings and drawings in this thread, and knowing that you might have a few minutes of relaxation time in Salamanca, I thought you might be interested in these drawings that I just ran across of traditional buildings in the Alpujarra by the architect Donald Grey.
Alpujarra Este
Alpujarra Alta
Alpujarra Sur-oeste

I hope you are enjoying Salamanca!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I thought you might be interested in these drawings that I just ran across of traditional buildings in the Alpujarra by the architect Donald Grey.
Alpujarra Este
Alpujarra Alta
Alpujarra Sur-oeste

Wonderful! I’ve never heard of Donald Grey, but what a terrific sketcher!
I’ll have to pick my way (at least a little bit) through the Spanish in the books!
Thank you!

Salamanca is a beautiful place, although the weather really got in thw way this week of me doing a lot of sketching.

 

[philmickm]

Loving your sketches, enjoy the way. To help avoid shin splints, which I had in 2018, I recommend not to walk too large a distance and certainly not faster than your narural pace.

Also, stay hydrated and after every stop/rest of more than 5 minutes do some stretching of your legs. If you do get shin splints recurring, STOP walking for 3 days, then you should be good to continue and start off with short distance days 10kms max. for first couple of days.

Buen camino

Loving your sketches, enjoy the way. To help avoid shin splints, which I had in 2018, I recommend not to walk too large a distance and certainly not faster than your narural pace.

Also, stay hydrated and after every stop/rest of more than 5 minutes do some stretching of your legs. If you do get shin splints recurring, STOP walking for 3 days, then you should be good to continue and start off with short distance days 10kms max. for first couple of days.

Buen camino

Yes MarkyD & Stephan The Painter,
I too had shin splints in ‘18.

Agree w MarkyD, and add my observations:

I walked as I trained, long, fast steps.
So I reduced step length but keep same cadence. Probably was carrying too much too. Combination of both.

I wanted to walk to Finisterre and needed to push due time. Kept my eyes on the destination and not the present.

Pushed on for 10 days, then decided to leave Finisterre to the bus, from SdC, relax, have a day off in Leon for a break.
After all, it was the CF and SdC is “The” destination.

I immediately started to enjoy, far more, where I was and lost sight of the destination. You've no doubt heard that before.

On excellent advice, I raised my legs up a wall, when I had a break, and worked my fingers in the sore spots, pushing the swelling up the leg. (has to get out)

But, I think the thing that had the most effect was ice. When I stopped at bars and wherever (usually bars) I asked for ice. No problems, always provided. It made a huge difference.

I also took more breaks, particularly if my leg started getting sorer, usually at the hottest part of the afternoon, and put my feet up for a while.

All the best, give the ice a go, buen Camino