Richard M.
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Walked September, October 2014
Will walk September October 2015
Packing
Have list of where you pack stuff in backpack. My pack has 9 zipper pockets in addition to main pack area.
Pack size depends on time of year. You need less in warmer months than winter months. I would think a 48 liter bag would be good for any time of year. Many pilgrims had 38 liter bags.
In 55 degree temperature and above shorts are preferable. You get hot lugging a 20 pound pack and hiking up hills. Get a 3 liter camelback even if you don't fill it completely. It will be flatter in you backpack than a 2 liter and easier to fill.
Use compactor bags to line back pack. Garbage bags don't last.
Need three pair of socks to ensure that you have a dry pair the next day. Socks should be low so you don't get heat rash on your ankle.
Boots should be low cut so less heat buildup except in winter.
2 sets of clothes plus rain gear are enough. Sometimes clothes do not completely dry overnight, particularly if it rains. Met one pilgrim who had no extra clothes.
Get water proof map case to carry your pilgrim passport and guide book around your neck. You will constantly be referring to your guide book as well as getting stamps when you stop. A nice feature of Brierley is that the two end flaps can be used to mark the section you are hiking that day, one flap for the map and the other for the descriptions. I cut out the section of Brierley that we did not hike to save weight.
Pack your clothes in water proof sailing bags. They are more durable and can be used on subsequent trips. They also make it easier to pack and unpack. Put labels on the bags.
Only bring sturdy web belt. Leather gets wet when it rains.
Can buy toiletries, medical supplies and hiking gear along the way. Every major town has pharmacies and a sports shop.
Hiking poles are good for your knees and build shoulder muscle. I used them for downhill mostly. Make sure they fit in your backpack
Make sure waist belt of your pack is tight so the weight of the pack is on your hips
Sierra Trading Post had great prices on gear
Camino
Late September and October are good times to hike the Camino. The weather is good and there are fewer people.
You can buy a compostela in most restaurants and hotels for 2 euro. The compostela you buy in the states is different than the one that you buy on the Camino and costs more.
Much of the Camino is hilly, particularly the part between Saria and Santiago. Hiking 14 miles on hills is significantly harder that hiking the same distance on a rail trail. Your training for the Camino should focus on hill climbing and stair climbing.
Having Google maps on a smart phone is useful for finding places. I got a SIM card in Madrid for about 25 euro which was good for a month. There aren't a lot of places that sell SIM cards in Spain so I would try to get one ahead of time. I got my sim card at the Vodafone store at located at Puerto de Sol in Madrid.
Down load and print out a Google map of the cities you think you might stop in. If you have advance reservations, pin point it on the map. Nothing like arriving by train or foot in a city and having no idea how to get to a hotel that you have reserved ahead of time.
The km markers on the Camino measure linear distance rather than actual distance. I.e. if there is a mountain between points A and B it measures the distance as if it were flat and does not take into account the extra distance if there is a mountain in between, of which there are many. The km markers are not very accurate even for linear distances.
It’s windy on the Camino. That is why there are a lot of windmills.
Accommodations
Didn't stay in hostel, but if weather is cold you need sleeping bag. Blankets are reportedly dirty in some hostels. If weather is hot sleeping bag liner is ok to use in a hostel.
Albergues (hostel in English) now cost 10 euro. A small hotel in Spanish is called a hostal or pension. A casa is an even smaller hotel or B&B. Essentially the names are a distinction without a difference, although casa is generally cheaper. A hostal or pension on the Camino with bathroom costs 40 euro. If two or three people get a room together, the incremental cost of a hotel is not that much. We only stayed in hostals and pensions as we didn't feel that Albergues would add to our experience. We had plenty of pain and discomfort without the Albergue experience.
When checking into a hotel, the custom is to show you the room first. They usually show you the less desirable room i.e. noisy or without a view. Depending on your Spanish you should almost always ask for a better room. It is expected.
There is a very nice Albergue/Hotel (A Bolboreta) combination outside Casa Nova in Remond, if that happens to work for you.. Sign on Camino says Albergue Touristic and *** hotel.
Call ahead to reserve a room/bed if the Camino has a lot of pilgrims. In late September and early October when we hiked, we had difficulty finding rooms in the major cities which are part of Brierley's stages. More availability in smaller towns. To reserve a room at a hotel is quiero un habitation para el proxima noche or something to that effect. I worked for me. Also the place you are staying can call ahead for a room, although very few people speak much if any English. Santiago is busier on the weekends than during the week. Reserve at least two days ahead of time if for the weekend. The big albergue/monastery as you enter Santiago does not take reservations.
Financial
Pretty much its cash only on the Camino. All the major towns have ATM's. You should only use money exchanges if you want to change dollars to Euros. If you just want to get Euros, use the ATM’s with a debit card. You get a better rate than at the money exchanges.
Notify your bank of your travel plans ahead of time. 50 euro notes are difficult to use so if you get them, try to use them first. Also have plenty of one euro coins so you can have exact change in a restaurant. Waiters tend to take their time coming back with change.
Actual prices on the Camino are about 15 to 20% higher than in the guides. That said, prices are about half or less than in the U.S, unless you live in NY.
Eating
Pilgrim dinners are served at albergues and most restaurants. They consist of three courses and all the wine you can drink. They cost around 9 euro. Breakfast of coffee and toast costs 3 euro. Lunch can be the most expensive meal of the day if you get a hot meal.
All major towns have grocery stores. A half pound of sliced ham at the meat counter is “quiero un medio kilo de jamon por favor” (more or less). A useful phrase. Cheese is queso and bread is pan.
Monday a lot of restaurants and shops are closed in the cities.
Train Travel
If you travel by train in Spain, use the Spanish railway site Renfe for reservations. It is much cheaper than other sites that will sell you the same ticket for much more. It is difficult to use, but persevere. Tickets are considerably cheaper 60 days in advance.
Spanish people are friendly and outgoing. They just don't speak English generally, particularly in Galicia.
Blisters
Blisters - While friction is a proximate cause of blisters, the heat caused by friction is the real problem. Going downhill where most of your weight is transferred to the ball of your foot is how most people get blisters. Knowledgeable hikers keep their feet cool by wearing low cut shoes and low cut socks. Injinji toe socks as liners cut friction between toes as well as wrapping every other toe with the white paper tape used in hospitals. Taking your shoes off when you stop to let your feel cool off and socks to air out helps. Another strategy is to make sure you walk heel first down hill.
The most used blister preventative is Compeed which is a patch you put on your foot. Another preventative is Glide. We walked in temperatures ranging for low sixties to low seventies and my feet still got hot and my socks soaked. The foregoing probably is not as relevant for winter months.
Santiago de Compostela
You can't actually see the Cathedral as you enter town from the Camino. The old town is situated on a hill and the cathedral is on the opposite side of the hill from the Camino. That of course means that when you reach the outskirts of Santiago, you will be walking mostly uphill. The outskirts of the city if you are hiking at the end of the day (when you are hiking more slowly) is about an hour away from city center. Some people stop before they reach Santiago so they can arrive in the morning when they are more refreshed. Not a bad strategy
Santiago is a beautiful medieval city and worth spending a few days there. The bus system in Santiago is pretty easy. It costs a euro. The number 5 bus goes to the bus station where you can pick up the bus to Finisterre and the number six goes to the train station. You can walk to the bus station or train station. Train station is downhill and bus station is uphill.
If you don't have a place to stay when you arrive in Santiago, go to the tourist office. There is a map of Santiago when you arrive on the outskirts, but it is best having a printout of a map of the town or gps.
The compostela office opens at 8:00 AM (at least it did when we were there). To avoid long lines, go early in the morning. We arrived at about 7:50 A.M. and waited about 45 minutes. Remember they will misspell your name as it is translated to Latin. You can buy a tube to put your compostela in at the same time as you get the compostela. Its 2 Euros and worth while.
The Parador dos Reis Catolica which is in the main square is nice to tour and they have bathrooms. Just walk in like you are a guest. No one will challenge you. They also have free meals for the first 10 pilgrims who show up for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As you are facing the hotel, go down a ramp on the left until you get to an entry way. That is where your congregate. Dinner is at 7:00 but you need to get there early.
We went to an English church service in a chapel in the main cathedral which was at 10:30. It was very moving. We also attended the service in the main part of the cathedral with the swinging incense. Having a service is Spanish is not as moving but the swinging incense is spectacular. Arrive early. Service at 12:00 on weekdays and also 7:30 on Friday.
There is a motorized tourist tram that tours the outside of the city. It leaves from in front of the cathedral on the hour and costs 6 euro. You get the view of the cathedral from the hill opposite where you come to town on the Camino. It’s the view that is on all the postcards.
Souvenirs are cheaper and more plentiful in Santiago.
Palacio Xelmirez is a free museum of modern art and the entrance is to the left of the main stairs to the cathedral. Nice bathrooms. Most of the signs in Galicia are also written in Galician. Palacio becomes Paxa and Iglesia (church) becomes Igrexia. Galician is a Celtic based language closer to Portuguese.
Finisterre
We had planned to walk from Santiago to Finisterre but blister got in the way. It also looked as if the route was quite mountainous. We did take the morning bus to Finistere and stayed overnight (highly recommended). The 9:00AM bus to Finisterre is shorter than the later ones. Some people take day tours to Finisterre which can be arranged with travel agencies in Santiago. I think you miss the Finisterre experience if you do that.
We hiked in the mountains (Finisterre is mountainous despite being on the coast) and watched the sunset from the lighthouse. It was magnificent. You can get your compostela stamped at the lighthouse for 2 Euros (the only time we paid for a stamp). You can also get your compostela stamped at the fisherman's museum in Finisterre. If you go to the light house for sunset, remember to bring your headlamp. It is dark on the way back (it gets dark after sunset). The hike from Finisterre to the lighthouse is surprisingly uphill.
Have list of where you pack stuff in backpack. My pack has 9 zipper pockets in addition to main pack area.
Pack size depends on time of year. You need less in warmer months than winter months. I would think a 48 liter bag would be good for any time of year. Many pilgrims had 38 liter bags.
In 55 degree temperature and above shorts are preferable. You get hot lugging a 20 pound pack and hiking up hills. Get a 3 liter camelback even if you don't fill it completely. It will be flatter in you backpack than a 2 liter and easier to fill.
Use compactor bags to line back pack. Garbage bags don't last.
Need three pair of socks to ensure that you have a dry pair the next day. Socks should be low so you don't get heat rash on your ankle.
Boots should be low cut so less heat buildup except in winter.
2 sets of clothes plus rain gear are enough. Sometimes clothes do not completely dry overnight, particularly if it rains. Met one pilgrim who had no extra clothes.
Get water proof map case to carry your pilgrim passport and guide book around your neck. You will constantly be referring to your guide book as well as getting stamps when you stop. A nice feature of Brierley is that the two end flaps can be used to mark the section you are hiking that day, one flap for the map and the other for the descriptions. I cut out the section of Brierley that we did not hike to save weight.
Pack your clothes in water proof sailing bags. They are more durable and can be used on subsequent trips. They also make it easier to pack and unpack. Put labels on the bags.
Only bring sturdy web belt. Leather gets wet when it rains.
Can buy toiletries, medical supplies and hiking gear along the way. Every major town has pharmacies and a sports shop.
Hiking poles are good for your knees and build shoulder muscle. I used them for downhill mostly. Make sure they fit in your backpack
Make sure waist belt of your pack is tight so the weight of the pack is on your hips
Sierra Trading Post had great prices on gear
Camino
Late September and October are good times to hike the Camino. The weather is good and there are fewer people.
You can buy a compostela in most restaurants and hotels for 2 euro. The compostela you buy in the states is different than the one that you buy on the Camino and costs more.
Much of the Camino is hilly, particularly the part between Saria and Santiago. Hiking 14 miles on hills is significantly harder that hiking the same distance on a rail trail. Your training for the Camino should focus on hill climbing and stair climbing.
Having Google maps on a smart phone is useful for finding places. I got a SIM card in Madrid for about 25 euro which was good for a month. There aren't a lot of places that sell SIM cards in Spain so I would try to get one ahead of time. I got my sim card at the Vodafone store at located at Puerto de Sol in Madrid.
Down load and print out a Google map of the cities you think you might stop in. If you have advance reservations, pin point it on the map. Nothing like arriving by train or foot in a city and having no idea how to get to a hotel that you have reserved ahead of time.
The km markers on the Camino measure linear distance rather than actual distance. I.e. if there is a mountain between points A and B it measures the distance as if it were flat and does not take into account the extra distance if there is a mountain in between, of which there are many. The km markers are not very accurate even for linear distances.
It’s windy on the Camino. That is why there are a lot of windmills.
Accommodations
Didn't stay in hostel, but if weather is cold you need sleeping bag. Blankets are reportedly dirty in some hostels. If weather is hot sleeping bag liner is ok to use in a hostel.
Albergues (hostel in English) now cost 10 euro. A small hotel in Spanish is called a hostal or pension. A casa is an even smaller hotel or B&B. Essentially the names are a distinction without a difference, although casa is generally cheaper. A hostal or pension on the Camino with bathroom costs 40 euro. If two or three people get a room together, the incremental cost of a hotel is not that much. We only stayed in hostals and pensions as we didn't feel that Albergues would add to our experience. We had plenty of pain and discomfort without the Albergue experience.
When checking into a hotel, the custom is to show you the room first. They usually show you the less desirable room i.e. noisy or without a view. Depending on your Spanish you should almost always ask for a better room. It is expected.
There is a very nice Albergue/Hotel (A Bolboreta) combination outside Casa Nova in Remond, if that happens to work for you.. Sign on Camino says Albergue Touristic and *** hotel.
Call ahead to reserve a room/bed if the Camino has a lot of pilgrims. In late September and early October when we hiked, we had difficulty finding rooms in the major cities which are part of Brierley's stages. More availability in smaller towns. To reserve a room at a hotel is quiero un habitation para el proxima noche or something to that effect. I worked for me. Also the place you are staying can call ahead for a room, although very few people speak much if any English. Santiago is busier on the weekends than during the week. Reserve at least two days ahead of time if for the weekend. The big albergue/monastery as you enter Santiago does not take reservations.
Financial
Pretty much its cash only on the Camino. All the major towns have ATM's. You should only use money exchanges if you want to change dollars to Euros. If you just want to get Euros, use the ATM’s with a debit card. You get a better rate than at the money exchanges.
Notify your bank of your travel plans ahead of time. 50 euro notes are difficult to use so if you get them, try to use them first. Also have plenty of one euro coins so you can have exact change in a restaurant. Waiters tend to take their time coming back with change.
Actual prices on the Camino are about 15 to 20% higher than in the guides. That said, prices are about half or less than in the U.S, unless you live in NY.
Eating
Pilgrim dinners are served at albergues and most restaurants. They consist of three courses and all the wine you can drink. They cost around 9 euro. Breakfast of coffee and toast costs 3 euro. Lunch can be the most expensive meal of the day if you get a hot meal.
All major towns have grocery stores. A half pound of sliced ham at the meat counter is “quiero un medio kilo de jamon por favor” (more or less). A useful phrase. Cheese is queso and bread is pan.
Monday a lot of restaurants and shops are closed in the cities.
Train Travel
If you travel by train in Spain, use the Spanish railway site Renfe for reservations. It is much cheaper than other sites that will sell you the same ticket for much more. It is difficult to use, but persevere. Tickets are considerably cheaper 60 days in advance.
Spanish people are friendly and outgoing. They just don't speak English generally, particularly in Galicia.
Blisters
Blisters - While friction is a proximate cause of blisters, the heat caused by friction is the real problem. Going downhill where most of your weight is transferred to the ball of your foot is how most people get blisters. Knowledgeable hikers keep their feet cool by wearing low cut shoes and low cut socks. Injinji toe socks as liners cut friction between toes as well as wrapping every other toe with the white paper tape used in hospitals. Taking your shoes off when you stop to let your feel cool off and socks to air out helps. Another strategy is to make sure you walk heel first down hill.
The most used blister preventative is Compeed which is a patch you put on your foot. Another preventative is Glide. We walked in temperatures ranging for low sixties to low seventies and my feet still got hot and my socks soaked. The foregoing probably is not as relevant for winter months.
Santiago de Compostela
You can't actually see the Cathedral as you enter town from the Camino. The old town is situated on a hill and the cathedral is on the opposite side of the hill from the Camino. That of course means that when you reach the outskirts of Santiago, you will be walking mostly uphill. The outskirts of the city if you are hiking at the end of the day (when you are hiking more slowly) is about an hour away from city center. Some people stop before they reach Santiago so they can arrive in the morning when they are more refreshed. Not a bad strategy
Santiago is a beautiful medieval city and worth spending a few days there. The bus system in Santiago is pretty easy. It costs a euro. The number 5 bus goes to the bus station where you can pick up the bus to Finisterre and the number six goes to the train station. You can walk to the bus station or train station. Train station is downhill and bus station is uphill.
If you don't have a place to stay when you arrive in Santiago, go to the tourist office. There is a map of Santiago when you arrive on the outskirts, but it is best having a printout of a map of the town or gps.
The compostela office opens at 8:00 AM (at least it did when we were there). To avoid long lines, go early in the morning. We arrived at about 7:50 A.M. and waited about 45 minutes. Remember they will misspell your name as it is translated to Latin. You can buy a tube to put your compostela in at the same time as you get the compostela. Its 2 Euros and worth while.
The Parador dos Reis Catolica which is in the main square is nice to tour and they have bathrooms. Just walk in like you are a guest. No one will challenge you. They also have free meals for the first 10 pilgrims who show up for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As you are facing the hotel, go down a ramp on the left until you get to an entry way. That is where your congregate. Dinner is at 7:00 but you need to get there early.
We went to an English church service in a chapel in the main cathedral which was at 10:30. It was very moving. We also attended the service in the main part of the cathedral with the swinging incense. Having a service is Spanish is not as moving but the swinging incense is spectacular. Arrive early. Service at 12:00 on weekdays and also 7:30 on Friday.
There is a motorized tourist tram that tours the outside of the city. It leaves from in front of the cathedral on the hour and costs 6 euro. You get the view of the cathedral from the hill opposite where you come to town on the Camino. It’s the view that is on all the postcards.
Souvenirs are cheaper and more plentiful in Santiago.
Palacio Xelmirez is a free museum of modern art and the entrance is to the left of the main stairs to the cathedral. Nice bathrooms. Most of the signs in Galicia are also written in Galician. Palacio becomes Paxa and Iglesia (church) becomes Igrexia. Galician is a Celtic based language closer to Portuguese.
Finisterre
We had planned to walk from Santiago to Finisterre but blister got in the way. It also looked as if the route was quite mountainous. We did take the morning bus to Finistere and stayed overnight (highly recommended). The 9:00AM bus to Finisterre is shorter than the later ones. Some people take day tours to Finisterre which can be arranged with travel agencies in Santiago. I think you miss the Finisterre experience if you do that.
We hiked in the mountains (Finisterre is mountainous despite being on the coast) and watched the sunset from the lighthouse. It was magnificent. You can get your compostela stamped at the lighthouse for 2 Euros (the only time we paid for a stamp). You can also get your compostela stamped at the fisherman's museum in Finisterre. If you go to the light house for sunset, remember to bring your headlamp. It is dark on the way back (it gets dark after sunset). The hike from Finisterre to the lighthouse is surprisingly uphill.
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