Crowding on the Camino del Norte

[Bubastis]

I am planning on walking from Bilbao in September and October. I have heard that this camino now is considered an alternative to the Camino Frances for those pilgrims who want to walk east to west. My question is: is it now very crowded if you want to stay primarily in refuges or pilgrim hostals? Thanks.

 

[Tincatinker]

No, not according to current reports. Accommodation comes under pressure in the July / August holiday season. Not otherwise.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I wouldn't be concerned. I walked the second half of the Norte in August last year just staying in municipal/parochial albergues until Arzua, but it should be a bit quieter when you go. I can think of several albergues that were officially full by about 4 or 5pm in the afternoon (and Miraz much earlier). But nearly all of them had strategies for coping with this - places like Soto de Luña opened up a whole hall the same size as the dormitory and provided gym mats. Aviles was full by about 5pm but the hospitalero was giving people details of other places to stay in town and that was quite typical. I can think of a few places that were unstaffed where people arriving late just bedded down in the hallways, but I think that's more of a crazy August thing when, with the hordes and the heat, the rule book seems to go out the window...
The three main pinch points were Cadavedo with 12 beds, but people walked on a few km to a camping chalet place I think. Ribadeo only has 12 beds which is most disproportionate to the size of the town, but we walked on the 7km to Vilela which had about 30 or so beds and was fine and gives you a head's start into the hills. Miraz has much larger places on either side of it at Baamonde and Sobrado, but they sorted something out for us...
Ach, you'll be fine

 

[Mountainman]

I wouldn't be concerned. I walked the second half of the Norte in August last year just staying in municipal/parochial albergues until Arzua, but it should be a bit quieter when you go. I can think of several albergues that were officially full by about 4 or 5pm in the afternoon (and Miraz much earlier). But nearly all of them had strategies for coping with this - places like Soto de Luña opened up a whole hall the same size as the dormitory and provided gym mats. Aviles was full by about 5pm but the hospitalero was giving people details of other places to stay in town and that was quite typical. I can think of a few places that were unstaffed where people arriving late just bedded down in the hallways, but I think that's more of a crazy August thing when, with the hordes and the heat, the rule book seems to go out the window...
The three main pinch points were Cadavedo with 12 beds, but people walked on a few km to a camping chalet place I think. Ribadeo only has 12 beds which is most disproportionate to the size of the town, but we walked on the 7km to Vilela which had about 30 or so beds and was fine and gives you a head's start into the hills. Miraz has much larger places on either side of it at Baamonde and Sobrado, but they sorted something out for us...
Ach, you'll be fine

Thanks for the info Tom! Do you think I should expect this also if I'd start at Irun around mid August?

 

[peregrino_tom]

Mountainman, I'd be comfortable starting out on the Norte mid August. It may not always work out exactly as you plan it, but places typically have contingencies for the times when extra pilgrims arrive. Provided you're not a late arriver, I'd say you'll manage to secure albergue-type accommodation most of the time.

 

[Mountainman]

Thanks Tom, that is great to know! I will also carry a lightweight sleeping & bivvy bag (1kg together), so I have a little contingency on me as well, for clear nights on the beach maybe!
Cheers, Martin

 

[Pelgrimpaul]

Walked del norte from Irun (Iwalked) last year sep/okt.
There were enough beds on the path, however, you're not alone. Sometimes there were signs of a run on albergues, like I read on fora from people now walking the CF.
If you're thinking about continuing on the primitivo, I was surprised by how many people were on the trail. Several times the albergues were completely full. Not once, but three times! This could become a problem in places that don't have an alternative. It's smart to look after this while planning. (If at all!)

 

[AJ]

I would not walk the Norte in August. I did in 2012 and found the infrastructure couldn't cope with the large numbers. This is Spain's peak holiday period. I have also walked the Norte in September 2009 and it was fine then.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I would not walk the Norte in August. I did in 2012 and found the infrastructure couldn't cope with the large numbers. This is Spain's peak holiday period. I have also walked the Norte in September 2009 and it was fine then.

August wouldn't be my first choice but if that's the only time you can go, I'd say it's still eminently do-able. For me the second half was very enjoyable in August last year, but at the same time I can see that some of those big resort places like San Seb, Laredo and Santander might be a bit full-on.

 

[Mountainman]

OK, so august is doable but better to go in september if possible, which it most probably will be for me. Thanks again guys!

 

[grayland]

We are starting the Norte on August 22nd and walk through September. Not too worried about it after we get past the tourist areas.
Just take it as it comes, as usual. We are not hung up on staying in albergues so will just use the easiest type of accommodations available as we go.

 

[angulero]

Se están abriendo albergues privados nuevos, así que hay etapas donde ahora será más fácil encontrar donde dormir.
Por ejemplo, en la etapa Avilés-Soto de Luiña, han abierto un albergue justo antes de Muros de Nalón, a mitad de etapa.

http://www.casacarminahostel.com/habitaciones.html

En El Pito, justo antes de Cudillero, un hotel que hacía precio a peregrinos, ahora también tiene albergue.

http://www.alberguecudillero.com/alberguelink/alberguelink.php

También me hablaron de otro en Santa María del Mar. Supongo que en otras etapas también se puedan encontrar nuevos albergues.

Are opening new private shelters, so there are stages where it will now be easy to find where to sleep.
For example, in Avilés-Soto de Luiña stage, have opened a hostel just before Muros de Nalón, halfway stage.

http://www.casacarminahostel.com/habitaciones.html

In El Pito, just before Cudillero, a hotel that made money pilgrims, now also has hostel.

http://www.alberguecudillero.com/alberguelink/alberguelink.php

They also spoke of another in Santa María del Mar. I guess in other stages can also find new shelters.

 

[camino07]

Walking now on the Norte. There are around 30 to 40 pilgrims on the way. Today would be a problem in Lezama as albergue not open until June. Pouring with rain and As we walked out of the small cafe in Goikolezia there was standing a bus to Bilbao so our worries were over. Now in Pension Zubia.
Certainly a hard Camino for us.

 

[rickster]

camino07, you mentioned that the Norte was a hard Camino for you. Could you elaborate, i.e. trail difficulty, weather conditions, etc? Still collecting info for planned trek in September

 

[Larry from Sydney]

Walking Frances with my wife Des there are a lot if people but no problems with accomodation good or space it is simply great


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[johns]

Walking Frances with my wife Des there are a lot if people but no problems with accomodation good or space it is simply great


Sent from my iPhone using Camino de Santiago Forum mobile app

just home from walking bilbao to gijon surprised the numbers walking i would say the norte is a very hard walk but enjoyable used the cicerone guide quite good the bridge is down at pobena make a long detour. [guemes albergue] pass it by next time you wait till 8pm meet in the libery a talk by ernesto all me me then meal at 9i got there 3 30pm a long wait haveing walked to me after the history lesson to say its donative is not true i put 20e in the box after the talk me me i felt guity i could have left more to this cult he had going.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

just home from walking bilbao to gijon surprised the numbers walking i would say the norte is a very hard walk but enjoyable used the cicerone guide quite good the bridge is down at pobena make a long detour. [guemes albergue] pass it by next time you wait till 8pm meet in the libery a talk by ernesto all me me then meal at 9i got there 3 30pm a long wait haveing walked to me after the history lesson to say its donative is not true i put 20e in the box after the talk me me i felt guity i could have left more to this cult he had going.

Absent punctuation and capitals, I can only guess at the gist of the post, but here is information on the Albergue de Guemes:

http://alberguedeguemes.com/historia.html

 

[ksam]

Excellent thread!! Feeling much more relaxed about our walk in Sept/Oct. Not so much myself, but the other half!! He's a bit more inclined to fret about how far and will there be space etc etc. I've already learned on the Frances...it all works out in the end!

 

[Aglass]

I did the Frances in 03 and then the Primitivo last year (loved it). I just have a week or so in July and would like to do some of the Norte. Which is the best part scenery-wise? I'd also like to avoid road walking. I know the Bilbao area well and don't fancy that. Is Santander a good starting point and head for Gijon?
Andrew

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Andrew,
I walked the norte long ago (2006), but more recently I was on it from Santander to San Vicente de la Barquera, where I turned south to walk the Lebaniego/Vadiniense in 2012. I can tell you that from Santander to San Vicente, it's four days of almost nothing but asphalt, with the first break coming after Comillas, or maybe a little before. So if you're looking to have an off-road walk, Santander would not be a great starting place, IMO.

I remember the Asturian part of the Camino del Norte as having a lot less asphalt, and some great coastal detours by using the E-9 markings (always take you to coast, and always take you back to the Camino). So, maybe starting in Gijon or Aviles and heading west would be a better option for you. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Rich Jones]

I am planning on walking from Bilbao in September and October. I have heard that this camino now is considered an alternative to the Camino Frances for those pilgrims who want to walk east to west. My question is: is it now very crowded if you want to stay primarily in refuges or pilgrim hostals? Thanks.

Having completed the Camino Frances last July/August, I'm hoping to tackle the Camino del Norte at the same time of year 2015. Working in a UK school, this is the only time of year I can make the entire route in one go, so have no option to go at another time of year. I'm hoping the albergues will be available throughout the route, but when we struggled for accommodation on the Frances we always found somewhere to sleep (one night was however spent on the floor of a playground!). Does anyone have any advice which might be useful for me as I get my preparations underway?

 

[Tia Valeria]

I did the Frances in 03 and then the Primitivo last year (loved it). I just have a week or so in July and would like to do some of the Norte. Which is the best part scenery-wise? I'd also like to avoid road walking. I know the Bilbao area well and don't fancy that. Is Santander a good starting point and head for Gijon?
Andrew

The section from Llanes onwards is mostly off road and is very scenic. You can reach Llanes by the FEVE or by by bus from Santander and then head for Gijon.
If you take the FEVE only as far as Pendueles then you can add a day and use the E9 to walk the coast to Llanes past the bufones.

 

[Aglass]

The section from Llanes onwards is mostly off road and is very scenic. You can reach Llanes by the FEVE or by by bus from Santander and then head for Gijon.
If you take the FEVE only as far as Pendueles then you can add a day and use the E9 to walk the coast to Llanes past the bufones.

Thanks a lot!

 

[Janka Staníková]

Hello I have just completed Camino del Norte in mid-June Not crowded at all!!! I would say like 20 - 30 people per stage
Enjoy the ocean, it is very marvelous!

 

[Deleted member 12253]

I walked Norte May 1st from Bilbao to pobena, albergue closed till 5/5 so walked to Castro urdiales. Got 3 bed in albergue, none of upper bunks used that night. No problems with beds in any town, 3 times I was only pilgrim in albergue. Very easy walking and no rain . Switched to primitivo and lot more pilgrims but no problem with beds. Lugo not full 19/5. My average daily walking 30 km, primitivo harder but not hard. Buen camino

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Last month Pobena was overcrowded, 42 people in 22 spots. Other than that as far as Oviedo not a problem in June 2014. Many may be closed by September.

 

[Janka Staníková]

Hi Paristo, did you also find out the reason, why Pobena was overcrowded? Where is it?