While not a particularly far hike, 24km out of the 900 odd Km to Finnisterra, facing the hill on the first day, is certainly daunting. For me personally, that first day’s walk has tremendous psychological importance. When starting out, it seems impossible that one can manage to walk all the way up the steep slopes, following the road that seems to go on for ever. Once over the hill, nothing seems impossible, and, I found, that it is possible to enjoy the experience, secure in the Knowledge that ones body, in spite of the trials and tribulations to come, is capable of meeting the test.
I have been over the Hill on two occasions, both Camino’s starting at more or less the same time, about May 20th . On both occasions, I was fortunate to be accompanied by my brother, Derek van Rensburg. Being a veteran of numerous Camino’s, Derek is a vast walking encyclopaedia of all things Camino, with untold snippets of information on Spain, it’s history, culture, cuisine and architecture.
On the first occasion, the weather was brilliant, clear sunny skies, and after a hard slog, I was rewarded by a fantastic view over the countryside from the summit. The long walk up the hill was, for a not very fit novice pilgrim, probably one of the hardest things that I had done for a long time. Again, Derek’s encouragement, and wry comments, interspersed with interesting historical footnotes, went a long way to motivating me, and keeping one foot moving ahead of the other. Sitting on the summit, and enjoying a repast of bread, cheese and Jamon, I felt a tremendous feeling of accomplishment. I had just done something that I had had serious doubts, of my ability to do. This feeling of accomplishment was to stand me in good stead during the weeks ahead. After lasing in the sunshine, we set off on the last leg of our days journey, and a short downward walk later, I arrived at the old refuge at Roncesvallis.
On my second Camino, we left St. Jean in the dark on a still cool morning. As we followed the road higher and higher up the Hill, we notices ominous signs of mist closing in, accompanied with a marked drop in temperature.
The higher we went, the more the weather closed in, and visibility declined, to the point of about a one meter visibility radius, and a cold steady Scotch Mist. As our strides, and walking tempo differed, a gap slowly opened between Derek and I, with Derek being the faster walker, slowly pulling ahead. Following the yellow arrows became more and more difficult as the mist closed in, restricting visibility. Becoming disorientated by the lack of visibility, I lost sense of time and distance, and had no idea how far I was from the summit.
As the road steepened, I walked in a zig-zag pattern to ease the strain on my legs. While zigging across the road, I missed Derek waiting at the turn-off, and kept on going higher. Finally I realised that, not only were there no pilgrims in sight, or sound of me, but that I seemed to have run out of road. Retracing my path, I literally walked into a concerned Derek, having walked right passed him, having missed him in the mist on the way up.
We arrived at Roncesvallis in driving rain, and found that the new refuge, run by the Dutch, was certainly more comfortable than the old.
Thinking about things, I believe that that first day’s journey encompasses the whole Camino experience into a single day’s journey. The experience, to most Pilgrims, is new. The demands of the first day, on untried bodies, often with very little practical experience and training, are daunting. It is almost as if all the emotions of the Camino are compressed into that single experience.
Into the unknown, hardship that must simply be endured, the satisfaction of achieving what you thought you may not be able to do, the comradeship of fellow pilgrims, and the triumphant arrival at Roncesvallis
Yes, the Way is long, there will be moments of doubt, moments of soul searching, of blisters and strain, but also moments of Joy, of friends made for life, and finally, when the route is done, of memories that return. Of an accomplishment made.
All of this is encapsulated in that first days walk, the walk over the Hill.
Photos; Derek van Rensburg
1st Photo First signs of encroaching mist
2nd Photo Mist now stronger, turning to rain
