I walked the Invierno at the end of October. I didn't see another pilgrim until I hit the Sanabres (and then only 5), though I followed the footsteps of another pilgrim, and though I never saw him he was walking at the same rate as me - others told me of him.
There was no accommodation in Las Médulas, and so I walked onto Borrenes, intending to take the shortcut and miss the long uphill trudge, but somehow missing the turn and crossing the road straight up hill. Well worth it though. Leaving Borrenes I was asked to sign a pilgrim register book. It had started in June and I was pilgrim no. 232 in late Oct. Obviously that would only be a small portion who stay at the reasonably expensive Casa Rural. My host and a large group from the amigos group walked walked my third stage the next day.
I posted the details on my blog of where I stayed (
http://offwanderingagain.blogspot.com.au). I opted for rooms rather than albergues - I preferred to just get up, get dressed, and hit the road rather than pack sleeping bag etc. I had already walked the Camino Ignaciano. (The distances are using my route tracker app and from room to room including the odd detour!)
Day 1. Thursday 20th Oct. Ponferrada to Borrenes, 22. Kms. Centro de Turismo Rural Cornatel. €40
Day 2. 21st Oct. Borrenes to Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras, 17.3 Kms. Hostal Restaurante La Torre. €34
Day 3. 22nd Oct. Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras to O Barco de Valdeorras. 22.1 Kms. Pensión do Lar €25
Day 4. 23rd Oct. O Barco de Valdeorras to A Rûa de Valdeorras. 14 kms. Hostal Niza €18. (own shower & basin, shared toilet)
Day 5. 24th Oct. A Rûa de Valdeorras to Quiroga. 29.5 Kms. Hostal Quiper €17
Day 6. 25th Oct. Quiroga to Pobra do Brollón. 26.03 Kms. Hostal As Viñas, Dinner, bed & Breakfast €34
Day 7. 26th Oct. Pobra do Brollón to Monforte de Lemos. 16.7 Kms. Hotel Puenta Romano room + brekky €20
Day 8. 27th Oct. Monforte de Lemos to Chantada. 32.7 Kms. Hotel Mogay. €33.
Day 9. 28th Oct. Chantada to Rodeiro. 24.4 Kms. Hospedaxe O Guerra dinner bed and breakfast €32
Day 10. 29th Oct. Rodeiro to Lalin. 19Kms. Hotel Palacio. Dinner, bed and breakfast €35
Day 11. 30th Oct. Lalin to Ponte Ulla. 38.6kms. Bar Rios. Dinner, bed & breakfast €27
Day 12. 31st Oct. Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela. San Martin Pinario €92 (€23 per night - pilgrim room) bed & breakfast for 4 nights