My intended stages on the Camino Primitivo (14 days)

[messa777]

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!

I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

 

[Stripey Socks]

Hi Melissa. I am interested in this thread as I plan to walk a similar path in June next year. I will be very interested in what the forum has to say. I am bit different and can walk 35km days when I have to, but prefer a shorter distance if I can get it. Not sure if you have read Maggie's posts about switching from the Primitivo to the Verde, but that was a couple of years ago and perhaps the infrastructure has changed since then - https://magwood.me/2017/05/21/stage-29-lugo-to-friol-27-8-km/
Bye, Mel

 

[Ralph Ayling]

Hi Melissa,
I did the Primitivo in June.
Our stages to Lugo differed from yours as we followed the Gronge stages. I suggest that you shorten the 35 km day by stopping at O’Cádavo. Of course this pushes the stage to Lugo towards 30kms.
You might want to consider a rest day in Lugo depending on how you feel at the time.
After Lugo we did the same route and stages as you propose and I would recommend them.
Buen Camino.
Ralph

 

[Dave]

Hi Melissa,

I just returned as well. We had a long stage around the same time that you have your 35km planned, going a bit further actually (to A Pocina de Muñiz). We had been walking since Irún, so we were pretty fit at that point, and everyone felt good about it--especially when we had a nice, short walk into Lugo the next morning (not to mention when people saw the lavish albergue at APdM)!

That said, since you have the luxury of a day to spare, you could always adjust, breaking that section into Fonsagrada-Baleira-Pocina de Muniz-Lugo. No need to make that call now!

With regards to beds, many of your planned stops involve private albergues that allow for reservations, so you have that option. No need to book more than two days in advance, and even 24 hours will generally suffice. The biggest pinchpoint we experienced this summer was around Berducedo/La Mesa. With the municipal albergue in Berducedo closed for repairs, there are fewer beds in that spot, and most everyone coming over the Hospitales is hoping to sleep there. I'd definitely reserve something in advance, unless you're philosophically opposed, so that you can make that walk with total ease.

This was my first time staying in the albergue in Castro and I really enjoyed it. They've got some unusual (and good!) items stocked in their bar and it's cool to have easy access to Chao Samartín.

Take care,
Dave

 

[Elle Bieling]

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!

I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

Hi there Melissa, Thank-you for your reference to my work! I agree that walking a shorter stage eight, from A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo would be better perhaps, because it is only 25 km, like my day eight. Then the day nine is only 30 km. to Lugo, like my day nine. I felt that only a half day was required to see Lugo, even though I took a full day there, I wished I hadn't. Maybe a morning of touring the wall, with a later start the next day. Then you could still make the full stage ten. The entire perimeter of the wall is only about 2 km, so you could visit the cathedral the night before, and do the wall walk the next morning?? Just some suggestions. Have a great time - your journey sounds wonderful!
~ Elle

 

[willydp]

Hello Melissa,
I have planned to walk the Primitivo with the Francés connection in June 20 and found this site easy to calculate the different stages
Buen Camino

 

[Ian Afloat]

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!

I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

The Albergue at Bodenaya takes bookings. Would definitely recommend booking two or three days in advance. Visited there today to say hello...lovely place run by lovely people. Will be staying there in 10 days, and have booked a place there already.
There are a lot of people on the Primitivo at the moment (relatively speaking) and of course, some come onto it from the Norte. Grado is full up every night at the moment, but I think that is because it’s a popular first stage. Pretty sure by September it will have thinned out.

 

[Bert45]

I walked the Camino del Norte and switched to the Primitivo last year (June/July). I can agree with most of your stages. I stayed at Cornellana -- the Albergue San Salvador is brilliant (hot water in sinks). The albergue at Bodenaya is brilliant too (donativo)! The sign on the wall (Santiago 256 km) is very accurate. My next stop was Borres. I took Pola de Allande over Hospitales -- I didn't fancy being without water for so long. Despite a sign to the contrary, there is no bar in Lago. (At least, there wasn't one last year.) After Berducedo I stopped at Grandas de Salime. I had a fantastic meal at Catro Ventos, Barbelos. The albergue at A Fonsagrada was very good. Casa Miranda at A Lasta did a great meal. Cádavo was OK. In Lugo, I stayed at Hostel Cross, Rúa de la Cruz. You could easily spend a day in Lugo. My next stop was the Albergue A Nave at Ferreira. The chap running it is very helpful. My next stops were Melide, Arzúa. O Pedrouzo, Santiago, so I can't comment on your proposed stops. I hope this helps you.

 

[Jyrki Wahlstedt]

FWIW, I attach my stages of Primitivo from last year. A couple of notes: the albergue at Castro might be crowded, so it's wise to make a reservation, and instead of Berducedo you might consider La Mesa, a couple of km's further, a nice new(ish) place, and also one could continue a couple of km's from A Fonsagrada to O'Piñeiral, there's a new albergue as well (had to ask the personnel in the restaurant, it wasn't totally clear, but the place has a nice glass wall with Primitivo picture on it). The last part of my walk was along Frances, so just skip it.
(apologies for the titles in Finnish, but names and numbers are understandable anyway)

 

[Beeman]

Hola Melissa, I walked the Primitivo in 2017 in early September. I stopped in Grado,liked castro,loved bodenaya. I found the stage from fonsegrada to castroverde very doable,even getting lost and doing an extra 6 km,and being 73. The Verde Camino was very nice, I went from boimorto to Santiago the way you proposed,and found it well marked and easy to follow,as was the Verde. I think that you just need to start out and see how you feel each day,and then see where to stop. I did not reserve any places except bodenaya, and feel that booking ahead is not necessary. The Primitivo is not the Frances! Have a great walk!

 

[Heartsong Willow]

Thank you Melissa for posting your query. I am going a few days before you on this very same route but hadn't really done any detailed homework until it was real. I bought my tix this evening then went immeditely to the net and then to this site and registered and VOILA there was your post. I see my Camino has already begun. Trail magic rocks! I am thinking of just taking it day by day and seeing where I end up and only reserve a room if absolutely necessary as some of the folks suggested. Buen Camino to you and thanks to all of you for your responses to Melissas post!!

 

[willydp]

Welcome to the forum @Heartsong Willow.
Buen Camino

 

[Beeman]

Thank you Melissa for posting your query. I am going a few days before you on this very same route but hadn't really done any detailed homework until it was real. I bought my tix this evening then went immeditely to the net and then to this site and registered and VOILA there was your post. I see my Camino has already begun. Trail magic rocks! I am thinking of just taking it day by day and seeing where I end up and only reserve a room if absolutely necessary as some of the folks suggested. Buen Camino to you and thanks to all of you for your responses to Melissas post!!

Willydp, I did the hospitalis route,and found it a bit underwhelming. It was easy enough to do and not too long,but I would go the other way if I were to walk this way again. I agree with your idea of just plunking along! Buen Camino!

 

[Stripey Socks]

Lavacolla

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!

I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

Hi @messa777 . I am very interested in your last few stages that you have described as part of the Northern Way. I like how it drops you into right at the end of the Frances and will avoid a lot of the crowds. However when I search the Northern way for maps etc, I can't find any reference to Boimorto. Can you please let me have the link you have based this on? Also wondering whether it is possible to extend your day 12 to it evens out the distances of the last two days and perhaps can combine them with a longer leg into Santiago. Thanks, Mel

 

[Stripey Socks]

I have done some more digging @messa777 and found a B&B at Goimil - Twin Pines B&B for $38 which breaks this stage into two - 21km from Sobrado dos Monxes to Twin Pines B&B Goimil and then 30km from there into Santiago. By the look of Google Maps there is lots of road walking and relatively flat/downhill. Bye, Mel

 

[Beeman]

Stripey socks, Boimorto is 12 km after Sobrado on the Norte. There is a nice alberque that we stayed in there,which was uncrowded being so close to a busy stop. We walked from Sobrado and took the opportunity to have a nice afternoon nap in a quiet place.

 

[Stripey Socks]

Thanks @Beeman - that is a very attractive option and I have read good things about the Boimorto albergue, but a little short for me. Unfortunately I will be a time limit and need to be in SdC by a certain date. No leisurely caminos for me yet, but I am working on it! Have a good day, Mel

 

[Beeman]

Thanks @Beeman - that is a very attractive option and I have read good thinks about the Boimorto albergue, but a little short for me. Unfortunately I will be a time limit and need to be in SdC by a certain date. No leisurely caminos for me yet, but I am working on it! Have a good day, Mel

Mel. Good luck and take a sleeping bag. Asturia and Galicia are like Seattle in October. I took only a silk liner and was cold most nights. Only Boimorto had blankets(3 euros). Buen Camino.

 

[JOSEPH SITKO]

Hi Melissa
Your tentative route plan looks good. I walked that last year, and found it enjoyable. Most especially the Verde portion. Very quiet and peaceful. One suggestion. After Boimorto , head for Astrar ( 24km ) then onto Santiago ( 15 KM ). After meeting up with the French route it might be wise to find a place a little sooner and Astrar is a little off the beaten path and quite. Enjoy your adventure. Be open to make changes as you move along the Way.

 

[Stripey Socks]

Mel. Good luck and take a sleeping bag. Asturia and Galicia are like Seattle in October. I took only a silk liner and was cold most nights. Only Boimorto had blankets(3 euros). Buen Camino.

Thanks @Beeman. I will be walking in May/June and had thought I would take a sleeping bag. Now I definitely will!

 

[pobrien]

Hi Melissa,
I will be leaving Oviedo on the 20th of September. Last year i walked the Camino Frances in a little over 4 weeks. Anytime I walked over 35km in a day - I certainly noticed it but a few easier days mixed in meant it was very doable. I don't envisage a bed race at this time but I certainly will be taking a sleeping bag.
Buen Camino
Paul

 

[Wandalina]

I'm leaving Oveido on the 17th September. Last year I spent hours working out a plan but once I was on the trail the Camino portugese it all just worked out. I'll probably flag up the spots with less accommodation and have a plan for that and then see how the rest of it goes as I walk. I need to do it in 14 days

 

[Heartsong Willow]

Wandalina - I am leaving Oviedo on the 17th and am planning that it will all just work out too. I’ll need to do it in 13 days and planning on going the Camino Verde route.
Hope to see you plunking along!
Willow

 

[kbjawor]

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!

I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

Hi Melissa,
We’ completed our Primitivo on July 30 after 2 weeks of walking. It was amazing walk. Tough but beautiful.
A few suggestions where I would stop:
-Oviedo
-Grado
-Salas
-Tineo
-Pola de Allande (if not walking Hospitales route)
-Berducedo or La Mesa
-Grandas de Salime
-A Fonsagrada
-O Cadavo
-Lugo ( we spent 2 nights here to rest and explore city)
-Ferreira
-Melide
-Aruza
-Pedruza
-SDC

Buen Camino

 

[Wandalina]

Wandalina - I am leaving Oviedo on the 17th and am planning that it will all just work out too. I’ll need to do it in 13 days and planning on going the Camino Verde route.
Hope to see you plunking along!
Willow

Ha ha great who knows let's see if our paths cross and leave it up to the old Camino magic buen Camino

 

[Peligro]

It's funny researching the Primitivo because just about everybody doing it already had an awesome experience on another Camino. So people are experienced and are much more inclined to just wing it within a few parameters like how many days they have. Glad to see that going with the flow works on the Primitivo!

 

[MikeJS]

Definitely plenty of places to stay and to refresh. To me in terms of services it’s like the Frances from 10 years ago. However, as it’s relatively short I would suggest a week of so to start to get the camino legs.

 

[Ian Afloat]

As far as the first 3 stages are concerned, I’d do Oviedo to Grado and then Grado to Salas, with a short day to Bodenaya. Cornellana is amazingly unremarkable, while Salas is gorgeous.

 

[Jess85]

Hi all,

I'm going to be walking the Primitivo from mid to late September. I was hoping that I could run my stages past you all for comment. Including the Camino Verde (crossing from Primitivo to Norte), I'm intending 14 days. I've read through some of the forums and staged it mostly on recommendations from others about their favourites albergues, stops or routes.

I have only 1 spare day at the end, in case I need an extra rest day during it (I'm counting the 13km day as a 'rest day' ), before I'm due to fly out of Santiago on 3rd October morning.

Stage/Day	Route	Distance (km)
1​	Oviedo to Paladin	21.5​
2​	Paladin to Cornellana	18.7​
3​	Cornellana to Bodenaya	20​
4​	Bodenaya to Samblismo	31​
5​	Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales	22.8​
6​	Berducedo to Castro	27.1​
7​	Castro to A Fonsagrada	21.1​
8​	A Fonsagrada to Castroverde	35​
9​	Castroverde to Lugo	22.5​
10​	Lugo to Friol (Verde)	27.8​
11​	Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes (Verde)	27​
12​	Sobrado dos Monxes to Boimorto (Norte)	13​
13​	Boimorto to Lavacolla (Norte)	29​
14​	Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostella	10.2​

Though I have done multi-day hikes before, they're not often with such long distances. I think my biggest training walks some months ago managed about 50-55km over 3 days, then 32km over 2 days. I do need to make training walks within the next month a more regular exercise though!


I've also mostly relied on Liz Brandt's resource for distances and my main source of information, along with Elle Bieling's amazing website! Not sure if I need to get a specific guidebook, or if there are enough waymarks to find my way?

My questions are:
1) Are the above stages realistic? I am a little concerned about the 35km day... but have tried to mix up the longest days with moderate days around it.
2) I've heard some comments about 'bed races'. Have the towns I've picked got enough albergue beds that I may not need to walk to the next town in case I arrive a little later?
3) Any other feedback/suggestions you might want to make?

Thanks all. I'm getting so excited and can't wait to be there.

Melissa

Hi! How did this work out for you? I plan to do the Camino Primitivo for 2 weeks next year in September.

 

[Beeman]

I liked your stages! I am 75 and walked from fonsegrada to castrverde with no problem. I like that you are taking the verde and on to lavacola. This way is well marked and easy to follow all the way to Santiago. I mentioned before that the start from Lugo is pure magic! Buen Camino!