anthikes
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016 SJPdP > SdC
2018 Porto > SdC
2019 Sevilla > SdC
One month on from finishing the VDLP in Santiago, so I thought I'd write some useful info, and also comment on the guidebook by Gerald Kelly.
The guidebook is only just that, a guide. I'd say it was a rough guide more than anything. It's clearly not updated that often and has a lot of inaccurate information...
- It mentioned an easier road section to Canaveral, instead of taking the natural route. That road was very dangerous and not suitable for walkers. There were a lot of bends and was quite a high speed road. I took the 'easier road' because I was tired and the book suggested it, but regretted it. I suggest he removes it from his next version.
- On a number of occasions there were bars that were mentioned in the guide, as ones that open early. Don't rely on what his guide says, many times they were shut or shut down!
- Some of the distances are inaccurate and inconsistent
- The layout is not very good either, but that might just be me and my walking buddies opinion!
What annoyed me most is that I wrote a lot of useful information for Gerald's Facebook group, but he would not publish it, just because I mentioned a bad experience I had in a particular hotel.
Do not rely on just this guide.
Gerald, if you are reading, please update your guidebook. I appreciate you give away the PDF for free, but it's not any good if the information is inaccurate.
So I took the route up to Astorga. I'd imagine 95% of the VDLP walkers went the Sanabres Way, their reasons being not wanting to walk Frances again. Fair enough, but I wanted to walk the entire VDLP, and save Sanabres for another time.
I regretted this decision within a day and a half. I nearly turned around and headed back to Granja at one point. The villages from Granja to Astorga were a little depressing. Most had no services whatsoever. I ended up walking 35km plus for a number of days to get it over. Some yellow arrows sent me across a field for 2km when I had to turn back due to very angry farm dogs! I was glad to have an app as backup.
If you go this way then make sure you are prepared to carry quite a bit of food. Some of the municipal albergues were closed for no apparent reason. It was also pretty lonely too! I was actually happy to be in the 180 bed albergue in Astorga and around people again.
As for the VDLP up to the Sanabres, it was generally awesome. No, forget that, it was totally awesome. I can't think of one day that I was peed off for any reason. There were always enough other pilgrims, spare beds, supermarkets, bars, interesting sites, alternative accommodation and so on.
I never imagined it would be my favourite, but it is now!
It was never too hot or too cold, but was quite windy many days, usually a cross wind from the west. I would not have wanted to start before I did (31 March) or much later. I'd suggest the perfect time to leave would be the first two weeks in April (from Sevilla).
Most of the other pigrims were older. I am mid 40s and felt young on the Via, and then instantly old when I joined the Camino Frances! More males than females too, so bring those earplugs!
I actually enjoyed doing the French Way again because it made a nice contrast to the VDLP. I'd forgotten how hilly Galicia is, and even my Sevilla trail legs suffered a bit! The VDLP is actually very flat and probably easier than the French.
My longest day was 42km, shortest was 14km. I walked 28 days from Sevilla to Astorga, 10 from Astorga to Santiago, so 38 days walking, with one day off in Zamora.
It was overall awesome. I am jealous of all those who plan to hike it in the future! BC x
The guidebook is only just that, a guide. I'd say it was a rough guide more than anything. It's clearly not updated that often and has a lot of inaccurate information...
- It mentioned an easier road section to Canaveral, instead of taking the natural route. That road was very dangerous and not suitable for walkers. There were a lot of bends and was quite a high speed road. I took the 'easier road' because I was tired and the book suggested it, but regretted it. I suggest he removes it from his next version.
- On a number of occasions there were bars that were mentioned in the guide, as ones that open early. Don't rely on what his guide says, many times they were shut or shut down!
- Some of the distances are inaccurate and inconsistent
- The layout is not very good either, but that might just be me and my walking buddies opinion!
What annoyed me most is that I wrote a lot of useful information for Gerald's Facebook group, but he would not publish it, just because I mentioned a bad experience I had in a particular hotel.
Do not rely on just this guide.
Gerald, if you are reading, please update your guidebook. I appreciate you give away the PDF for free, but it's not any good if the information is inaccurate.
So I took the route up to Astorga. I'd imagine 95% of the VDLP walkers went the Sanabres Way, their reasons being not wanting to walk Frances again. Fair enough, but I wanted to walk the entire VDLP, and save Sanabres for another time.
I regretted this decision within a day and a half. I nearly turned around and headed back to Granja at one point. The villages from Granja to Astorga were a little depressing. Most had no services whatsoever. I ended up walking 35km plus for a number of days to get it over. Some yellow arrows sent me across a field for 2km when I had to turn back due to very angry farm dogs! I was glad to have an app as backup.
If you go this way then make sure you are prepared to carry quite a bit of food. Some of the municipal albergues were closed for no apparent reason. It was also pretty lonely too! I was actually happy to be in the 180 bed albergue in Astorga and around people again.
As for the VDLP up to the Sanabres, it was generally awesome. No, forget that, it was totally awesome. I can't think of one day that I was peed off for any reason. There were always enough other pilgrims, spare beds, supermarkets, bars, interesting sites, alternative accommodation and so on.
I never imagined it would be my favourite, but it is now!
It was never too hot or too cold, but was quite windy many days, usually a cross wind from the west. I would not have wanted to start before I did (31 March) or much later. I'd suggest the perfect time to leave would be the first two weeks in April (from Sevilla).
Most of the other pigrims were older. I am mid 40s and felt young on the Via, and then instantly old when I joined the Camino Frances! More males than females too, so bring those earplugs!
I actually enjoyed doing the French Way again because it made a nice contrast to the VDLP. I'd forgotten how hilly Galicia is, and even my Sevilla trail legs suffered a bit! The VDLP is actually very flat and probably easier than the French.
My longest day was 42km, shortest was 14km. I walked 28 days from Sevilla to Astorga, 10 from Astorga to Santiago, so 38 days walking, with one day off in Zamora.
It was overall awesome. I am jealous of all those who plan to hike it in the future! BC x