Two days in Muxia

[J Willhaus]

Phil and I arrived on the crowded double decker bus today in Muxia from Finesterre. There were some detours and road blocks due to mowing and painting maintenance, but we made it through only 15 minutes late. There was a near riot as we disembarked and tried to get our bags and pilgrims turned tourists tried to get their bags and selves on the bus back to Santiago.

We are staying in the penthouse apartment at Belle Muxia. It is one of the most beautiful and restful places I have ever been. It costs more now than it did 7 years ago, but so worth it...Angel and Celia greeted us like old friends. In the mad rush to welcome pilgrims, our place was not yet ready, but Phil and I went and had a soda by the harbor and waited an hour for all to be right with the apartment and the world. Some changes here...what used to be a living room is now a room with twin beds. Celia said it is more appropriate now for families with a room for kids and one with a queen bed for the parents. We have the whole apartment with the kitchen and spacious shower and double sink area to ourselves for 2 nights. View is excellent and while the albergues guests come up to see the sunset or enjoy the views from time to time, it is still wonderful and quiet except for the calling of the seagulls. Coffee is ready in the Moka pot for morning...

We walked to the Xunta albergue and spoke to the hospitalero. It is a beautiful place on the hill with great views, but you may only stay if you walk or bike to Muxia so it won't work for my students this winter. We walked to the beach and picked up a few shells. Phil wants to take them home for our packs for next year's Camino.

We stopped and had a huge menu del dia at a grill place. I had grilled calamari. Phil ordered an entire leg of lamb! We'll be eating BBQ lamb sandwiches for tomorrow's lunch! Excellent food!

We stopped to get groceries on the way back and I posted on another thread that we ran into one of our French pilgrims from our service time in Arres. A happy reunion!

Tomorrow we will walk out to the Virgin del Barca point and walk around the harbor. I will talk to Angel and Celia about whether they would open for a group in January.

 

[J Willhaus]

A little rainy this morning, with showers on and off. We languished over breakfast of Oikos blueberry cheesecake yogurt (little nutritional value, but oh so tasty), a shared orange and coffee from the moka pot. Here is a tip...one year I found real coffee creamers in the Eroski cooler section that were shelf stable. I don't think they carry them any more, but we did find shelf stable evaporated milk creamers on the shelf with evaporated milk. I can keep them in my microwavable cup so they won' be squashed in my pack. I don't really need the sugar as I am a type 2 diabetic and this is better for me than the instant Cafe con leche with the sugar. Just instant coffee and milk while on the Camino to get me out the albergue door!

I washed out yesterday's undies and they are hanging out now on the slight mist. Windy later so they will eventually dry.

We spent several days here in 2016 as Phil recovered from a terrible case of food poisoning so the apartment holds a special place in our hearts. He couldn't even look at the seafood photos outside of restaurants so it is a treat now to be able to sample the local cuisine on this trip.

 

[HoosierOldLady]

I'm also in Muxía for two rest days (leaving tomorrow). I enjoyed a sunny but windy walk out to the point yesterday, and a lovely misty walk on the beach at low tide this morning. I've got a beach-side room at Hotel La Cruz and it's lovely.

 

[J Willhaus]

We are on the 11:45 bus back to Santiago tomorrow. Might see you about town or on the way back?

 

[J Willhaus]

We walked out to the ocean point which is the end of the Camino Muxia. The waves are so blue and violent, and yet, I could sit and watch them all day-- until a tour bus comes that is...

Walked back around the harbor. Saw the blood mobile and the Muxia version of the fish market. There was a couple of fishermen sorting their catch. Some were the "good" ones they would sell to a local restaurant. The rest going wholesale or to the regular market auction.

There a lot of pilgrims waiting for today's 11:45 bus. I bought our tickets online already View attachment 20230629_104754.mp4so I know we will have a seat.

After a quick trip to the two grocery stores for salad, an orange, Hall's cough drops for Phil, and more creamers to take back to Madrid with us we went back to the apartment and had the remainder of Phil's lamb and potatoes from yesterday, a salad, fresh bread, and the remaining wine from the local bottle of coop albarino we got yesterday.

I checked with Angel and he gave me his card and said he would open up for our student group this winter if I contact him personally. That is good news so just have to decide between Muxia (which is my top choice) or Finesterre for December/January. I am sure they will both be cold and wet, but hey, when you are from mountainous, landlocked Wyoming, you might want to see the ocean under any circumstances!

 

[John Sikora]

I found Muxia very nice. I liked it more than Finisterre. Wouldn't mind walking back there at some point.

 

[Flog]

Angel is a generous and sincere guy, I would happily accept his offer to open his place in winter..

 

[HoosierOldLady]

We are on the 11:45 bus back to Santiago tomorrow. Might see you about town or on the way back?

I'm on that bus too (and I just received your pm and replied).

 

[peterhore]

If you like seafood and Spanish seafood, you should try the bodegon El Cordobes, on the seafront opposite where the bus stops. IMHO this is the best seafood in this part of Spain. I've been there three times at the end of each Camino (last time in 2019). No menu - eat what's been landed today. The owner's name is Auxeres who will serenade you on the squeezebox once he's finished cooking.
Enjoy!

 

[J Willhaus]

I found Muxia very nice. I liked it more than Finisterre. Wouldn't mind walking back there at some point.

Yes, I like it much better, but I need to consult with my co-teacher before making the final decision. Why should we walk all the way up a steep hill to a lighthouse when we can just walk around the curve here to see one? Also the mystique of the stones here and you can get much closer to the sea. She may have thoughts though and I want her to feel included.

Angel is a generous and sincere guy, I would happily accept his offer to open his place in winter..

He is and so is Celia. It was good to see her working with a few other ladies this week with her cleaning rather than just doing it all herself as she was when we first met her several years ago. I love it here at Belle Muxia. The albergue part is also restful, the kitchen is big and there is an indoor place to hang laundry or use the dryer. Bathrooms are nice and spacious. It isn't right on the main road either so quieter.

 

[Dani7]

I’m really enjoying reading about your journey. I preferred Muxia to finish my Camino however Finistere had its own charms.

Also…you could definitely be a food writer. Your descriptions make my mouth water and hungry even though I’m a vegetarian

 

[J Willhaus]

Had a good forum meet-up with @HoosierOldLady tonight at A Marina which was the only thing open when Phil and I finished our walk around the sea wall.

Phil and I had some croquettes as we were still full from snacks a bit earlier. Esther had razor clams. An interesting evening as the catch of the day was brought out for inspection on the plate for diners before it was fired. I have only seen that in Italy where you were brought 3 fish on a platter and asked to chose one before it is cooked, and that has been 20 years ago.

Angel came in for a beer just as we were headed out the door. A lot of local men in the bar tonight.

Back to Santiago tomorrow and hope to meet up with @trecile in the Alameda Park in the afternoon for a coffee or other beverage. Wonderful 2 days here. I wish I could stay forever, but back to the world and to see my aging parents in a few days...

 

[J Willhaus]

Up to see the sunrise with a few other hearty souls. Gulls calling and the salt sea air is chilly, but the wind has died down. Boats heading out and others coming back in to this quiet little village by the sea.

 

[HoosierOldLady]

Had a good forum meet-up with @HoosierOldLady tonight at A Marina

That was really fun, as was the drinks the next day in Santiago. It was good to meet other forum members

 

[Brightmore]

Up to see the sunrise with a few other hearty souls. Gulls calling and the salt sea air is chilly, but the wind has died down. Boats heading out and others coming back in to this quiet little village by the sea.View attachment 150800

Thanks so much for this! Please report back on getting your bus back to Santiago. My partner and I also booked tickets ahead, but we don’t seem to have a seat allocation so it isn’t clear if we are assured a place on the bus!

 

[J Willhaus]

T

Thanks so much for this! Please report back on getting your bus back to Santiago. My partner and I also booked tickets ahead, but we don’t seem to have a seat allocation so it isn’t clear if we are assured a place on the bus!

There is no assigned seat, but the driver makes people without a ticket wait until last so if you have a ticket, you will get on.

 

[Brightmore]

T
There is no assigned seat, but the driver makes people without a ticket wait until last so if you have a ticket, you will get on.

Thank you

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, there were s

Thank you

Yes, there were some people who had to take a later bus. The 11:45 bus was the most popular while we were there and they had a double decker bus so as not to have to add a second bus to the line.