LIVE from the Camino VDLP update feb 2024

[JohnMcK]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Watching your posts and thanking you for the updates. I've tried to finish the VDLP several times. Last time, Covid put a stop to it. Interested on what's ahead of you after Cáceres. I've never made it past there.

 

[Fred2a]

Thank you for the updates ! I am about to follow your steps.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for the updates, @JohnMcK. I’ve added the “live from the camino” prefix to your thread. It’d be great if you could add updates on this thread, rather than starting a new thread each time. Easier for people to follow you, and much more helpful after you’re done for others to have this document with all your updates in one place.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena

So does this mean there’s no arroyo/stream crossing of any kind now?

Sounds like perfect weather and a perfect number of companions! Buen camino, Lajurie

 

[Flog]

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena.

So does this mean there’s no arroyo/stream crossing of any kind now?

I got a lift across in the bucket of a tractor last time, it was late March, and the arroyo was two feet deep and fast flowing at the time, no possibility of wading across.. fun memories of first day on the VDLP!

 

[WildPlace]

Thank you for the update @JohnMcK i hope you are able to give us more news from the VdlP, my favourite camino

 

[Hans-Georg Goebel]

Thanks for the updates, @JohnMcK. I’ve added the “live from the camino” prefix to your thread. It’d be great if you could add updates on this thread, rather than starting a new thread each time. Easier for people to follow you, and much more helpful after you’re done for others to have this document with all your updates in one place.


So does this mean there’s no arroyo/stream crossing of any kind now?

Sounds like perfect weather and a perfect number of companions! Buen camino, Lajurie

that was the way end of February 2010

 

[RodlaRob]

Yes more updates please.... @JohnMcK.
For those of us coming behind you soon, any info on accommodation or eating places much appreciated.

 

[happymarkos]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

A lots changed since my VDLP in 2017
That’s a great report. Thank you.

 

[LTfit]

Wow, lots of changes since I walked the Plata, exactly 10 (!) years ago! It had rained a lot so the arroyos were overflowing, quite a few time before Monesterio we needed to wade through. Weather was also damp so you are quite lucky! We started out with 5 pilgrims but by the time we reached Fuente de Cantos the group split and I walked to Salamanca with one other. We were alone in all the albergues!

I've walked that stretch of 16 km along the highway three times and never understood all the complaints as traffic was almost non-existent but at least now you are taken a bit away from the highway.

Maybe it time to repeat the Plata although there are still other Caminos I've yet to walk.

Ultreia!

 

[JohnMcK]

Hi yes if you follow the ‘ new’ route there is no stream crossing before Guillena.
From Almadan de la Plata the route has also been upgraded to new path/ track all the way to El Real de la Jara apart from a small section at Vereda de los Bonales-by the horse farm. At this point you come up a hill and the track goes left and right, you need to go straight over, there is a sign once you reach the top and down through oak woods. This part is just a footpath through the trees down hill till you reach a gravel track/ path after about 300 m Then your on this all the way to El Real de la Jara.
Again great walking through oak forests with cattle pigs goats horses in various fields along the way. No part is on public road.
This and previous days have included plenty of up and down and the odd steep hill. The VDLP is not flat and boring on these stages.
We have found accommodation in El Real without any problems. I’ll try and upload a few photos.

 

[JohnMcK]

Re Accommodation so far
Triana backpackers hostel Seville pilgrim rate €16 with good breakfast. Good hostel
Guillena Albergue La Luz €14 nothing fancy helpful hospiliaro great roof terrace
Castilblanco. Municipal donitivo great terrace breakfast and staff.
Almaden dlp Albergue Casa de Rejol €12 bit unusual good location but basically one big room with kitchen and beds
El Real de la Jara Molinaseca Albergue. €14 €4 breakfast. Very comfortable family run. There is a brand new municipal just openethat looks excellent.

 

[JohnMcK]

Re Accommodation so far
Triana backpackers hostel Seville pilgrim rate €16 with good breakfast. Good hostel
Guillena Albergue La Luz €14 nothing fancy helpful hospiliaro great roof terrace
Castilblanco. Municipal donitivo great terrace breakfast and staff.
Almaden dlp Albergue Casa de Rejol €12 bit unusual good location but basically one big room with kitchen and beds
El Real de la Jara

 

[Joland]

I cant wait to follow your steps in March

 

[geraldkelly]

So does this mean there’s no arroyo/stream crossing of any kind now?

Yes. If you walk the new route all the streams have either bridges or stepping stones.
I was sceptical about its usefulness but having walked it I found it a more varied and scenic route than the old one.

 

[JohnMcK]

Monesterio tonight in El Pilar hotel- mix up on arrival thought it was parochial Albergue!? €45 shared room. It’s nice and comfy etc
Good path out of El Real de la Jara again wide gravel track. Little stream running across path before the ruined castle just outside the town. Lovely scenery oaks trees etc. couple of fields full of pigs. Like this all the way to the motorway services. Restaurant shop etc From there you are on series of paths running parallel to the main rd and motorway. It is better than it sounds. You don’t really see the motorway you hear it a bit and the main rd is very quiet. The route varies between a small path through trees, and a wider track. Later you are on the side of main road for 250 meters but most of this you are behind the barrier. From then on you are on an old country road with a wide grass margin and bits of shade so you do not need to walk on the tarmac if you don’t like it. After about 2 kms this road turns into a gravel rd the rest of the way in Monesterio.

 

[JohnMcK]

Coming out of El Real

 

[AntonM]

Thanks, John. I'll be following this topic with interest if only to discover where I went wrong or followed an old path (before Guillena I walked over the beam)

I met John in Guillena but afterwards we haven't seen each other much and now we're on different stages. I agree with what he's written. The route is not at all boring, neither has it felt flat. I absolutely adored the section after Almaden de la plata until a few kms before Monesterio (and those were still okay). Love the flowers as well.

In castilblanco de los Arroyos I faintly remembered the municipal albergue being closed in winter so I didnt check it out (even though it was open, starting from feb 1) and I went to la Posada de Escardiel (17 euros), which I found to be very good (bathroom and kitchen modern and as good as new).

Number of Pilgrims: mixed messages, the hospitalero in Guillena said to me he felt there had been less pilgrims than last january even though it had been great weather. In Zafra however the hospitalera told me that they had had 3/4/5 pilgrims almost every day which was a lot for this time of the year.

Buen camino

 

[JohnMcK]

Hi Anton safe travels
I’m not sure how far I’m walking on vdlp so you might want to add to/ take over an on going update. In terms on current numbers I am part of a group of 4 pilgrims walk seperately but meet up in the end stages plus there is another a bit ahead.

 

[amancio]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

I, for one, LOVE the tarmac stretch between Castilblanco and the entry to the park leaving Castilblanco at night, the sunrise is looooong and beautiful, and there are lots of birds singing and moving. Love it! Did I understand the last few km are now no longer on tarmac, that is fantastic!!!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Re Accommodation so far
Triana backpackers hostel Seville pilgrim rate €16 with good breakfast. Good hostel
Guillena Albergue La Luz €14 nothing fancy helpful hospiliaro great roof terrace
Castilblanco. Municipal donitivo great terrace breakfast and staff.
Almaden dlp Albergue Casa de Rejol €12 bit unusual good location but basically one big room with kitchen and beds
El Real de la Jara

John, is the little "hobbit house" albergue right at the entrace of the village in El Real de la Jara still open?
Is that where you stayed?

 

[AntonM]

Might be useful to know for you and for whomever is walking this week:
At the albergue extranatura in Vilafranca de los barros, the first door was open but inside there was a paper hanging that said that the albergue was closed until Feb 15th. I moved to Hotel Diana which was close by but more costly (35 euros, seems like it would be more expensive on weekends).

 

[JohnMcK]

I, for one, LOVE the tarmac stretch between Castilblanco and the entry to the park leaving Castilblanco at night, the sunrise is looooong and beautiful, and there are lots of birds singing and moving. Love it! Did I understand the last few km are now no longer on tarmac, that is fantastic!!!

Yes last 5 or 6 on new path/ track off to right hand side of road.

 

[JohnMcK]

John, is the little "hobbit house" albergue right at the entrace of the village in El Real de la Jara still open?
Is that where you stayed?

There was an albergue on the right at start of village that was open but we didn’t stay there. Not sure if this the one you mean

 

[JohnMcK]

in Cazadilla de los Barros tonight Pension Los Rodriguez. €15 single room €30 double with en-suite but worlds smallest shower. This seems to be the only place to eat in town. Menu 3 courses around €14.
Walk out of Monesterio is along gravel Rd through fields with stone walls and oak tree. Horses cattle sheep and pigs. First couple hours like this beautiful. Then you move into rougher ground more open for a few kms and the path becomes more of a farm/ tractor track which could be bit muddy in wet. This descends into open countryside of cereal crops. At the moment a mixed patchwork of greens browns and yellows but is likely to more brown later in the year. There is a stream to cross about 7 kms from Fuente de Cantos. From Fuente the path goes out through undulating open countryside to Cazadilla.

 

[JohnMcK]

 

[JohnMcK]

Photo

 

[amancio]

in Cazadilla de los Barros tonight Pension Los Rodriguez. €15 single room €30 double with en-suite but worlds smallest shower. This seems to be the only place to eat in town. Menu 3 courses around €14.
Walk out of Monesterio is along gravel Rd through fields with stone walls and oak tree. Horses cattle sheep and pigs. First couple hours like this beautiful. Then you move into rougher ground more open for a few kms and the path becomes more of a farm/ tractor track which could be bit muddy in wet. This descends into open countryside of cereal crops. At the moment a mixed patchwork of greens browns and yellows but is likely to more brown later in the year. There is a stream to cross about 7 kms from Fuente de Cantos. From Fuente the path goes out through undulating open countryside to Cazadilla.

Love Los Rodríguez, that town, Calzadilla has something special , indeed! The altar in the church is absolutely stunning! Tomorrow you will find quite a few streams to cross with no bridge, buen Camino!!!

 

[MesaWalker]

Might be useful to know for you and for whomever is walking this week:
At the albergue extranatura in Vilafranca de los barros, the first door was open but inside there was a paper hanging that said that the albergue was closed until Feb 15th. I moved to Hotel Diana which was close by but more costly (35 euros, seems like it would be more expensive on weekends).

This albergue must close frequently. My wife called them the day before we were to arrive in October 2023 and they said they would be open, but when we arrived they had a sign up that they would be closed for a couple of days. We figured it might have been a medical emergency.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

John, is the little "hobbit house" albergue right at the entrace of the village in El Real de la Jara still open?
Is that where you stayed?

Annie, do you mean the albergue municipal? It's the first building on the left as you enter on Calle Pablo Picasso. John mentions one on the right.
I do remember that it had a very unusual interior. I seem to remember that it was converted from a utilitarian building. I'm hazy about it.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Annie, do you mean the albergue municipal? It's the first building on the left as you enter on Calle Pablo Picasso. John mentions one on the right.
I do remember that it had a very unusual interior. I seem to remember that it was converted from a utilitarian building. I'm hazy about it.

Yes, I believe it was the municipal. We had to go to the swimming pool to pick up the key.
It was like a little hobbit house with a rounded ceiling - see photo - a very cool little building.

 

[Giorgio99]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

Hi. We’re about to start on Monday. Buen camino!

 

[Steve5000]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

Cheers John. I'm starting from Sevilla on Friday 16 so up to date info is really, really helpful. Any additional updates gratefully received. I note your comments wrt the numbers of pilgrims and that is useful when looking at potential space in Albergues/avoiding the bed race. (I did the CF last year over Semana Santa!) Everything sounds really positive and I'm keen to start. Stay strong.

 

[peregrina2000]

Monesterio tonight in El Pilar hotel- mix up on arrival thought it was parochial Albergue!?

I remember hearing from the priest who is in charge of the parochial albergue that the town has made it quite clear that they do not want him to advertise or do anything that would take paying customers away from local businesses. So I guess people have to know about the parochial albergue and seek it out. The priest was a pilgrim himself, and came back from his camino with a desire to help out. The albergue was the result, which I believe is in the same building where he lives. I know there is a Canadian association that regularly sends him contributions. He was definitely a well-loved figure in his town when I met him, and if I am ever lucky enough to get back to the Vdlp, I will find that albergue!

 

[MesaWalker]

I remember hearing from the priest who is in charge of the parochial albergue that the town has made it quite clear that they do not want him to advertise or do anything that would take paying customers away from local businesses. So I guess people have to know about the parochial albergue and seek it out. The priest was a pilgrim himself, and came back from his camino with a desire to help out. The albergue was the result, which I believe is in the same building where he lives. I know there is a Canadian association that regularly sends him contributions. He was definitely a well-loved figure in his town when I met him, and if I am ever lucky enough to get back to the Vdlp, I will find that albergue!

We met that priest in October. I think he lives just a couple of doors down from the albergue - we woke him from a nap, poor man! He gave us a list of all the albergues on the Via de la Plata with phone numbers and maybe emails that we dutifully carried and consulted often until we got to Galicia. It was very handy and thoughtful of him.

He struck us as a very nice man, though a bit gruff at first (in an endearing way). We really liked the parochial albergue he runs. There was a clothes centrifuge that worked great. It was hot when we visited, and the west-facing upper story terrace dried clothes in about two minutes. We also met several pilgrims there that became some of our best friends on the VdlP.

Great memories!

 

[M2ME]

I remember hearing from the priest who is in charge of the parochial albergue that the town has made it quite clear that they do not want him to advertise or do anything that would take paying customers away from local businesses. So I guess people have to know about the parochial albergue and seek it out. The priest was a pilgrim himself, and came back from his camino with a desire to help out. The albergue was the result, which I believe is in the same building where he lives. I know there is a Canadian association that regularly sends him contributions. He was definitely a well-loved figure in his town when I met him, and if I am ever lucky enough to get back to the Vdlp, I will find that albergue!

I stayed there at the end of last April. It was very well equipped with a stocked fridge on an honour system. After a long hot day the extra 500 metres to the Municipal albergue on the outskirts of town was more than I could handle. Other pilgrims I met said the signposted 500 metres was optimistic and it was closer to 800.

 

[Rita Flower]

Thanks, John. I'll be following this topic with interest if only to discover where I went wrong or followed an old path (before Guillena I walked over the beam)

I met John in Guillena but afterwards we haven't seen each other much and now we're on different stages. I agree with what he's written. The route is not at all boring, neither has it felt flat. I absolutely adored the section after Almaden de la plata until a few kms before Monesterio (and those were still okay). Love the flowers as well.

In castilblanco de los Arroyos I faintly remembered the municipal albergue being closed in winter so I didnt check it out (even though it was open, starting from feb 1) and I went to la Posada de Escardiel (17 euros), which I found to be very good (bathroom and kitchen modern and as good as new).

Number of Pilgrims: mixed messages, the hospitalero in Guillena said to me he felt there had been less pilgrims than last january even though it had been great weather. In Zafra however the hospitalera told me that they had had 3/4/5 pilgrims almost every day which was a lot for this time of the year.

Buen camino

Maybe people are skipping the early stages out of Sevilla ….

 

[JohnMcK]

Love Los Rodríguez, that town, Calzadilla has something special , indeed! The altar in the church is absolutely stunning! Tomorrow you will find quite a few streams to cross with no bridge, buen Camino!!!

Luckily the streams were low so managed to cross ok

 

[JohnMcK]

To Zafra the route is through open countryside with mix of cereal crops olive trees and vines. The route is a good gravel track and you walk along the side of the main rd for approx 250 meters on the old rd. the route then goes through farm land along tractor/ farm tracks and crosses 2 streams without bridges before the next little village. In wet weather you would need to wade these or avoid by continuing along the road to Sancho Perez. From there into Zafra you are on the pavement. San Francisco albergue was closed for some reason- no notice on door- so backtracked to Van Gogh Albergue. €12 very friendly and helpful. No kitchen and one shared bathroom. Cooler today and rain in evening and overnight. This is the end of my walk for now

 

[Giorgio99]

Day one today. Very muddy and had to walk the stell bean and through the mud barefoot . Still we are in Guillena now . Buen camino!

 

[AntonM]

Buen camino Giorgio! I remarked as well yesterday that the rain from the past days has made the trail a lot wetter. Keeping my feet dry on the stage Alcuescar-Cáceres was impossible (for me), even though I gave it a good try at the start: a spanish pilgrim that I met early on in the day asked if I had been flying the camino when he compared his muddy boots with my relatively clean shoes.

Still, today the weather is lovely and I'm enjoying a chill rest day. I'm finding Cáceres more impressive than Mérida, the sun helps quite a bit in that regard though.

The via de la plata remains very much not boring and quite lovely, it did get a lot flatter after Monesterio, though. I've just been following the arrows without a guide or gps and I've only had some very minor navigation issues (for example: a few kms (about 4 I'd guess) before Alcuescar there is an arrow pointing to the right where I'm pretty sure you just need to go straight, thats what the other pilgrims ended up doing. I didnt and walked a nice alternative road to Alcuescar without seeing any other arrows, I did use Google maps to doublecheck if it would still lead me in the right direction.

I've met/seen about 15 to 20 pilgrims in total (bicigrinos in albergues included) but that's mainly because I've been doing longer stages and catching up to some walkers. I haven't seen more than 5 pilgrims in the same town/village.

 

[Giorgio99]

Great to hear about your travels

 

[El Ramon]

in Cazadilla de los Barros tonight Pension Los Rodriguez. €15 single room €30 double with en-suite but worlds smallest shower. This seems to be the only place to eat in town. Menu 3 courses around €14.
Walk out of Monesterio is along gravel Rd through fields with stone walls and oak tree. Horses cattle sheep and pigs. First couple hours like this beautiful. Then you move into rougher ground more open for a few kms and the path becomes more of a farm/ tractor track which could be bit muddy in wet. This descends into open countryside of cereal crops. At the moment a mixed patchwork of greens browns and yellows but is likely to more brown later in the year. There is a stream to cross about 7 kms from Fuente de Cantos. From Fuente the path goes out through undulating open countryside to Cazadilla.

I'm curious as to how you managed the stream, I did that section in reverse from Zafra in December and it was impossible to cross...I chose to go to the right, crossing downstream ( left coming from Fuente de Cantos) it was quite challenging....wet feet, some fence gate climbing , stinging nettles and a very protective Mastif..(.I guess that's redundant )...

 

[JohnMcK]

I'm curious as to how you managed the stream, I did that section in reverse from Zafra in December and it was impossible to cross...I chose to go to the right, crossing downstream ( left coming from Fuente de Cantos) it was quite challenging....wet feet, some fence gate climbing , stinging nettles and a very protective Mastif..(.I guess that's redundant )...

Going north I crossed to the right There was a track through the reads to where there stream was broken into a few channels and so easier to jump across, but there had been no rain so was not high

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

John, where did you stay in Sevilla? I just looked and prices are CRAZY high in April - maybe because I'm looking at a weekend???

 

[peregrina2000]

John, where did you stay in Sevilla? I just looked and prices are CRAZY high in April - maybe because I'm looking at a weekend???

I thought the same thing. Hotel Simón is up over 100€ for a weekday in April, and it’s in the 1-2 star range!

 

[JohnMcK]

Hi I stayed at Triana backpackers hostel. Was € 16 for pilgrims. Accommodation was good in a dorm for 6 with a good breakfast in morning. I know Easter prices are dear. Depending on when your flight gets in you could walk out to guillena or santiponce.

 

[MesaWalker]

We stayed at Room007 Salvador Hostel in dorm room for 4. The price was reasonable, and it was close walking distance to the main sights.

 

[JustJack]

John, where did you stay in Sevilla? I just looked and prices are CRAZY high in April - maybe because I'm looking at a weekend???

Yep, I had to pay about €50 for a dorm room bunk bed in mid-April (not weekend). Prices drop about a week later I think. It's because of Easter and then a very large festival that happens in Seville very spring.

 

[camino07]

I thought the same thing. Hotel Simón is up over 100€ for a weekday in April, and it’s in the 1-2 star range!

Yes, I have booked two nights at Hotel Simon, Monday and Tuesday and its that price.

 

[AntonM]

Update from the vdlp

Casar de Cáceres - Cañaveral: lovely and dry stage, one of my favourite so far. The arrows alongside the embalse felt a bit ambiguous, maybe to allow the choice between the road and the GR (both had arrows, I think). I definitely recommend following the GR (camino natural del tajo) as much as possible but if tired or low on water following the road between the two big bridges seems smart, as the GR trail was a bit overgrown and steep at times at that point and I didnt see arrows there (after the second bridge there were arrows again and I would for sure follow the GR there).

Cañaveral - Carcaboso: less rain than predicted but the camino was a lot wetter and more muddy than the day before. I managed to keep my feet dry until 8km before Galisteo where I had to cross a small river (see picture). I didnt see an alternative looking on my phone (I think you avoid the crossing if you do the detour to Riolobos) so I rolled up my pants above my knees and walked through it. The water was clear and there were some stable rocks to step on. I got wet to about halfway up to my knees (I'm tall) and there was a decent current but nothing crazy. I originally planned on stopping in Galisteo but it felt a bit deserted so I walked on to Carcaboso.

From tomorrow on, it shouldnt rain for a while. Looking forward to what Gronze describes as the queen stage of the via de la plata tomorrow.

Number of pilgrims: I feel it's decreasing along the camino (a lot of the pilgrims I met so far didnt have the time to go all the way and I think those starting from more in the north are less likely to start in the winter). We were three in the nice hostal at Cañaveral but there had been no one there the two days before us and given that the albergue at the embalse is closed, I think few pilgrims would not stop at Cañaveral.

 

[Steve5000]

John, where did you stay in Sevilla? I just looked and prices are CRAZY high in April - maybe because I'm looking at a weekend???

Hi Annie. Try the Nomad Albergue in Sevilla. Great location and good value - €17 from memory for this week Feb 24. Obviously will increase in April but still might represent value. Buen Camino

 

[Steve5000]

Update from my first day to Guillena; one word MUD! The scale and extent did take me slightly by surprise. Nothing life-threatening but very sticky and quite messy which resulted in a big clean up exercise on the Albergue! Almost impossible to avoid so just relax…

 

[RodlaRob]

Update from my first day to Guillena; one word MUD! The scale and extent did take me slightly by surprise. ...just relax…

Pls keep track, rooms, food tips coming thanks Steve, as I'll be 10days behind you.

 

[Giorgio99]

I'm curious as to how you managed the stream, I did that section in reverse from Zafra in December and it was impossible to cross...I chose to go to the right, crossing downstream ( left coming from Fuente de Cantos) it was quite challenging....wet feet, some fence gate climbing , stinging nettles and a very protective Mastif..(.I guess that's redundant )...

Just crossed now. Danced across the rocks. Nae bother as we say in Scotland!

 

[Steve5000]

Pls keep track, rooms, food tips coming thanks Steve, as I'll be 10days behind you.

Yep. Will do. Updates to follow asap…

 

[Michael-FL]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

Thanks for the updates! VdlP has got to be a future path for me.

 

[RodlaRob]

Hi I stayed at Triana backpackers hostel. Was € 16 for .........

Hi John...could you pls advise on your vdlp experiences so far on Cash v Card preferences of accommodation/ meal establishments?

 

[JohnMcK]

Hi John...could you pls advise on your vdlp experiences so far on Cash v Card preferences of accommodation/ meal establishments?

It’s mixed. Lots of bars use cashless contact but most Albergues require cash so I would advise always having enough cash to cover couple days accommodation food etc. larger towns have cash machines

 

[AntonM]

On that regard, I feel there are fewer larger towns between Cáceres and Salamanca than on the earlier stages. Or maybe it's just that I paid less attention to it then.

I'd double check if you have enough cash leaving Cáceres (I'm not running out completely but it's a closer call than it should have been )

 

[Returning2TheTrail]

Having done the camino Frances twice, am I right in saying that water fountains are just as present in the towns we walk through on the VDLP? I’m starting in Seville on approximately 24th March

 

[MesaWalker]

Having done the camino Frances twice, am I right in saying that water fountains are just as present in the towns we walk through on the VDLP? I’m starting in Seville on approximately 24th March

I would say a bit less, but many town do have fountains. I would walk with plenty of water to get you through a whole day, just in case. Unquestionably you'll be able to get water where you stay each evening.

 

[Steve5000]

Having done the camino Frances twice, am I right in saying that water fountains are just as present in the towns we walk through on the VDLP? I’m starting in Seville on approximately 24th March

I would suggest significantly less. There are significant stretches where no water is available and that means you do have to carry more. A bit of a pain but a reality. Even now in February it’s possible to become dehydrated relatively easily and you will soon recognise the signs. Stock up on additional water in towns when you stop. Without the extra stuff you will suffer somewhat; not to be alarmist but hopefully avoiding others replicating my mistakes.

 

[Steve5000]

Pls keep track, rooms, food tips coming thanks Steve, as I'll be 10days behind you.

So…some observations
1 The mud issue was only relevant on day one. Beyond that nothing to worry about.
2 When crossing the streams and fords take your time! I’ve seen people getting feet wet through running or falling off the stepping stones.
3 When the (various) guides say there is nothing between towns they are not joking. Load up on food and water. Plan for the fact that in the smaller towns many bars/cafes may be closed when you arrive.
4 When walking north you need a buff/scarf/ legionaries cap to protect the back of your neck. The regular baseball cap or similar doesn’t offer enough protection.
5 On the stage to Almadén, in the National Parque you come to a metal gate/portilla before the ascent to Calvario. Open the gate and proceed directly ahead avoiding any confusing signs suggesting you turn right up another ascent. Be smart, don’t do it!

 

[jas11]

Hi currently on the vdlp and thought following might be useful to others. I’m only on day 3 so will try to update from time to time.
Have stopped in Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la plata. Mix of private and municipal albergues all been good. Obviously open now. There are currently around 5/6 pilgrims around mainly staying in the same places.
Weather has been sunny and warm. Cool at night and in morning but generally in T shirt by 10.00 getting in mid 20,s in afternoon once sun goes down cool. No rain.
Walking has been great. Countryside green few flowers and cows and horses about.
They have improved a number of paths.

On leaving Santiponce once you come off the public road and onto gravel track you can now go right at junction- new yellow arrows, old sign still points straight on- and right path avoids the beam over the stream and meets old route about 1 km before Guillena. The new path is a wide gravelled track and is very well done. I think there is just some signage to sort. This route is no further.
The last few kms into Castilblanco now also have a new path/track running alongside the road about 10-15meters in.
From Castilblanco you walk out on the road but their is a good shoulder and extra gravel and road is quiet. I had expected this to be a horrible boring walk from what I had read but didn’t find it so. Traffic is light the road meanders up and down in and out and the countryside is pleasant. About 10km out a new path/ track has been developed to a high standard that takes you all the way to the nature park. It runs alongside the road about 10-15 meters in and goes through the old cork oaks so there is some shade.
The path from the park to Almaden de la plata has also been upgraded in part up to the hill.

Thanks for the update, I’ll start from Salamanca in about a week.

 

[JacquelineA]

To Zafra the route is through open countryside with mix of cereal crops olive trees and vines. The route is a good gravel track and you walk along the side of the main rd for approx 250 meters on the old rd. the route then goes through farm land along tractor/ farm tracks and crosses 2 streams without bridges before the next little village. In wet weather you would need to wade these or avoid by continuing along the road to Sancho Perez. From there into Zafra you are on the pavement. San Francisco albergue was closed for some reason- no notice on door- so backtracked to Van Gogh Albergue. €12 very friendly and helpful. No kitchen and one shared bathroom. Cooler today and rain in evening and overnight. This is the end of my walk for now

Thank you JohnMcK, and also AntonM, for your info. We’ll start from Seville on March 22. and it’s really nice to read your tips.

 

[Steve5000]

Pls keep track, rooms, food tips coming thanks Steve, as I'll be 10days behind you.

Rod. Some room and food observations. Personal and qualified.
Guillena. Luz de Camino hostel. Hostel bar Frances

Castilblanco. Donativo hostel just after the Repsol gas/petrol station. Cafe across the main road on the left.

Almaden. Public hostel (They come around at 8 pm to register and collect money!) Cafe Morena (?) back down the road for Croquettes

Monesterio. Pilgrims Hostel (Parochial?) on the Main Street. You knock next door and the Priest lets you in. Kitchen cooking!

Calzadilla de la Barros. CdlB Hostel. Call the number posted on the door - good system. Kitchen again - the only restaurant in town doesn’t open until 8 pm (No criticism)

Zafra. Convento San Francisco . Dinner in the convent/albergue €12

Hope that helps and gives you some guidance. Overall a really positive experience - both sleeping and eating - on the VdlP Camino route. Others may have a view…. (Excuse my typos and poor Spanish)

Buen Camino.

 

[RodlaRob]

Rod. Some room and food observations. Personal and qualified.
Guillena. Luz de Camino hostel ...
Buen Camino.

Mate..thanks so much for taking time for this. So helpful for me next week! ....and all others following I'm sure.
Rod.

 

[Robo]

Having done the camino Frances twice, am I right in saying that water fountains are just as present in the towns we walk through on the VDLP? I’m starting in Seville on approximately 24th March

No. Not at all.

Maybe I just walked with my eyes shut, but I might have seen 2-3 water fountains between Sevilla and Astorga.

Don't rely on finding one. I just got used to carrying enough water for the day, unless I was going to be passing through a real 'town'.

 

[El Ramon]

I will be returning to the Camino next week in Mérida where I left off in December, hopefully all the way to Santiago, what was your choice of accommodation in Alcuésar, if you stayed there?

 

[Robo]

I will be returning to the Camino next week in Mérida where I left off in December, hopefully all the way to Santiago, what was your choice of accommodation in Alcuésar, if you stayed there?

There are two options on Gronze.
I checked out both last year. (long story)

The Donativo is very good and central / on the Camino.
The private option is not cheap and at the top of the hill, off the Camino a bit and away from things.
I would pick the Donativo.

Alcuéscar, Cáceres | Albergues y Hoteles | Gronze.com

www.gronze.com

 

[MesaWalker]

I thought I read that the paroquial albergue/donativo in Alcuésar is closed for repairs. That's a shame because we had a great experience there last October.

 

[AntonM]

The donativo mentioned on gronze is open (one/two weeks ago) and is a fine choice.

 

[Katriina]

Thank you JohnMcK for all good info. Starting Via de la Plata/Sanabres on April 24. So exited!

 

[Giorgio99]

Having done the camino Frances twice, am I right in saying that water fountains are just as present in the towns we walk through on the VDLP? I’m starting in Seville on approximately 24th March

We haven’t seen any water fountains with drinking water and we are currently on Stage 12 in Alcuescar

 

[charlesstones]

Hi all I started the VDLP in September 2022 I walked to Caceres but became ill and came home after a couple of weeks of rest I went back to Ourense to join the group I had met up with earlier but they had managed to walk all of the way. I finished with them in Santiago but I have a huge gap from Caceres to Ourense to walk. I am returning to Caceres in April after Easter to fill in my Gap. I wish you all well and maybe I will meet up with you along the WAY.

 

[duncanwhyte]

I'm currently in Monasterio. Both municipal albergues are closed, staying at the hotel Moya. 40 euros.

The Almaden de la plata hostel was left open for pilgrims. We all just came in as and when. The kitchen has equipment, but there's no leftover oils, vinegar and such like.

I've asked about Sunday shops at Calzadilla de Los Barros . Most say it's likely to be closed. So buying here for tomorrow.

The ground is drying out and river crossings of no concern at present.

 

[Paul-CH]

Monasterio

Just in case this village is called Monesterio is a Spanish municipality in the province of Badajoz,

 

[Fred2a]

Hi, I departed from Sevilla this morning, sunday 24.
I am staying at the Luz del Camino tonight.
Yesterday 10 pilgrims stayed over here and 10 tonight, which looks a good score for the VDLP. I took the new route with the bridges on the right passed Santiponce which was a good pick considering the rainfall this afternoon. Rain stops tonight and the next days will be sunny. Temperatures from 8 in the morning to 20´s max. I will post from time to time if I have infos that might be useful for others.

 

[amancio]

John, where did you stay in Sevilla? I just looked and prices are CRAZY high in April - maybe because I'm looking at a weekend???

April is the "Feria de Sevilla" season, the whole town is pretty much in 24 hour party mood. You might want to try the week inmediately after Easter.

 

[AntonM]

I'm in Puebla de Sanabria by now, some remarks about the camino since I last posted.

Carcaboso - Aldeanueva del Camino: very nice stage but the 10kms before finca venta quemada were quite hard because the camino was very wet when I was there. I think that scarred me slightly because I have been way less bothered by walking on roads (even busy big ones) since then. For whomever is walking that stage and finds it as wet as I did, it does get better after the finca, because from that point on there are stepping stones on the worst parts (see picture, I was so grateful for the stepping stones that day) and I only got my feet wet once or twice after the finca.

After that stage I found the camino to be rather straightforward (mostly flat, easily walkable dirt roads). If there were any real challenges, I seem to have already forgotten it, so can't have been too bad. There was a lot of wind after Salamanca but most days were dry. Loved how quickly the weather was changing sometimes. It has been getting colder in the mornings lately. Between Salamanca and Fontanillas de Castro the landscapes were okay but not that amazing, but since then it's been getting a lot more beautiful again.

The albergue in Santa Marte de Tera is closed which means there is a fairly long section after Tábara without accommodation (at least 33km I think). Don't know if it was only closed in february but the hospitaleros on the stages before will know.

Some personal highlights:
A beautiful misty sunrise leaving Carcaboso
The entrance into Salamanca (seeing the cathedral from more than 10kms away) and visiting Salamanca (I stayed 2 full days).
The donativo albergue in Fontanillas de Castro.
Views of snow on the mountains after Tábara

Weather prediction for saturday (entering Galicia normally) is pretty bad. Unsure if I'll walk through it or take a rest day in Lubian.

 

[Fred2a]

I am in Alcuescar tonight. There is approximately the same amount of pilgrims everyday on the road, a small dozen, staying either in albergues or hostals. They all are not the same people everyday.

So far, I have been suprised by the quality of the accomodation. I’ve stayed in both albergues and hostals and they were all clean and decent. To my mind, the negative comments we can read now and then on Gronze or so don’t reflect the reality.
I have been particulary positively surprised by the hostals, which, if shared, can be almost as cheap as the albergues, and you have your private bathroom (Monesterio !).

I read a pretty bad review on a famous guide about tonight’s acommodation : the Casa de Acogida de los Esclavos de María y de los Pobres, which was qualified as « grim ». Don’t trust that kind of comment and just embrace what comes. It’s a wonderfull place and an example of the best a religion can do. Helping those who need it.

 

[Bradypus]

Don’t trust that kind of comment and just embrace what comes.

Sometimes people have unrealistic expectations for the low price paid.

 

[duncanwhyte]

The last 2/3 stages before Salamanca had considerable flooding at stream crossings, on the official route. I got over the first few, but they became more difficult . But found better routes via Google maps and today road walked into Salamanca.

Morille albergue has only a microwave and no kitchen. But the local bar does a good meal.

 

[Steve5000]

Sometimes people have unrealistic expectations for the low price paid.

Similarly to Bradypus I find some of the negative comments unhelpful. Be realistic about the circumstances and the cost. Embrace the positives - and just get on with it!

 

[duncanwhyte]

I followed the E630 from Salamanca to El cubo de tierra del vino. There is still flooding lying on the land. So the trail may well have troublesome water crossings.

The albergue here does bed, dinner and breakfast for 32 €. As it's the only option.

 

[duncanwhyte]

Due to various circumstances I've advanced to Montamarta. The albergue closed last year. There is a casa rural at 25 per night, with all round good facilities. Enquire at the Fisuk Bar further along into town from the albergue. Also a Coviran shop.

 

[Paul-CH]

Due to various circumstances I've advanced to Montamarta.

You didn't wrote anything about Zamora. Did you just pass through? Buon camino

 

[duncanwhyte]

Yes. I did not visit the albergue.

 

[duncanwhyte]

The albergue in Puebla de Sanabria is closed. Off season there's ample accommodation. Asturianos, Requejo and Lubian all good.

 

[duncanwhyte]

Something I forgot to say. After Zamora Some of the albergues did not have blankets readily available. So a sleeping bag is needed.

 

[peregrina2000]

The albergue in Puebla de Sanabria is closed.

According to Gronze, the private albergue in Puebla de Sanabria opens on April 1.

 

[duncanwhyte]

Albergues in Vila del rey (no shop, 2 restaurants open in the day) and Xinzo de Limia (big town with everything )are open and a good stay. Again limited kitchens.