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I'm so sorry this was your experience! I was just there this week (after a short section of the CP, with friends who'd never walked), and loved being there and showing off the city. I was able to take the good and ignore the bad, but maybe it was because I was just so grateful to be there...
You have many good suggestions, but I'm going to agree with a couple of them - highly recommend bus/taxi out of Leon to Virgen del Camino, then taking the Mazarife route. We stayed at Molino Galoches in Villavante and it was wonderful. Highly recommended. I stopped for lunch at Casa Barbadelo...
I think we sat where that foursome at the right is! Our first tarta de Santiago - my husband wanted ice cream, but as I was the walker and he was the roadie, I got to pick. He became an immediate fan and has since perfected his own tarta.
Casa Morgade... I had the best bocadillo de atun there - one that I still remember 5 years later. Perfect balance of bread, tuna packed in oil, and tomato (and juice). Truly one of my most memorable Camino meals.
As you can see from my list, I'm one of those who's walked shorter Camino segments. I carry a daypack, my husband is my roadie (he has a bad back and can't walk any distance) and we stay at casas rurales or smaller hotels in general. So, yes, I've heard from those people who tell me I'm not a...
I passed through Morgade on my way from Sarria to Portomarin in 2015. It was a welcome stop for lunch, but the thing I remember most is a perfect bocadillo atún. The balance between the bread, the atún and the oil in which it was packed, and the tomato with its perfect juice - honestly, I've...
The pop culture moment that first inspired me to investigate the Camino was the Oysterband song, "The Road to Santiago." Even then I knew I probably wouldn't encounter a priest dancing with a whore. ;-) I'm able to discern between artistic license and the real world (possibly because I'm a...
In 2015, I arrived at Monte de Gozo on Pentecost Sunday, along with massive busloads of older folks coming in from regional churches to walk from there to Santiago. The bus drivers honked furiously at the peregrinos, annoyed that we were walking on "their" roads, the idling of the diesel buses...
After walking with the APOC credential and the one that Ivar sends, last year I walked with the Irish one to honor my triple diaspora roots. I considered the Canadian to honor my Canadian roadie husband (he has a bad back and can't walk, but has been my roadie for three Caminos now and has his...
If you take the green route, I highly recommend Molino Galochas, a casa rural in Villavante. Wonderful owners, and we had a veritable UN at our dinner table. AND I landed my first joke in Spanish, which was memorable in and of itself. 🆒
My dh has a bad back and can't walk any distance, so we rented a car and he did his own thing daily while I walked. I carried a day pack, and joked that "ello es mi Jacotrans." We stayed at casas rurales and small hotels, which obviously created a different experience than the albergue...
I wound up posting my daily "Fitbit says I did xx,xxx steps today," on Facebook, which was tremendously fun for my friends at home. Just one little part of an amazing experience.
While I always say I started in Leon (shorthand for peeps with a limited knowledge of Spanish geography), I actually did what many here suggested and taxied to Virgen del Camino and started my walk there - and seeing the not-so-pretty route on the way out of Leon was very happy that I did...
Can you share your stages? I start from Leon on May 19th, and am planning on 13 days to Santiago (I have contingency plans if that doesn't work!). Curious as to how you did it.
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