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In May of 2018, at SJPdP, I stayed at Beilari, which is a welcoming, peaceful albergue with a great vegetarian communal dinner. It's in the old town right across the street from the pilgrim's office. Follow the signs to the Citadel inside the old stone walls to get to the Rue de la Citadelle...
The days with steep descents were the toughest for me, even though trekking poles helped tremendously. I stayed at Orisson between SJdPP and Roncesvalles and am glad I did. The descent into Roncesvalles was still tough, but the day wasn't overwhelming.
Coming down from the Cruz de Ferro was...
I agree with the strap/weight load adjustment suggestions. My Osprey Sirrus 36 was causing that problem during some training hikes. I went back to the store where I bought it and they helped me make adjustments that really improved my comfort. It made me glad I bought local inside of saving a...
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