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I’ve often been tempted to give you all a geology lecture about the descent to Zubiri, but have held back for obvious reasons. I have however waxed lyrical about it in my almost-ready-to-go book about the geology of the camino. Zubiri gets a chapter of its own.
I’ll give you a brief rundown in...
With great patience, and on foot. For you, it would have come at the end of a long day, and that would definitely add to the stress. For me, I had plenty of time.
Look, I'm a bicigrino, and the first time on the descent to Zubiri I took the road being aware of the track's reputation. Last year I walked down the trail with my loaded bike because I wanted to look at the geology. The track is fine for the most part except for relatively frequent short...
I stayed at Albergue Rio Arga in Zubiri. I had a private room, (very comfortable), so I can't comment on the dorm. There are food options close by. Very well situated by the river, just across the bridge. I would stay again.
My "problem" with Cruz de Ferro (apart from the trash) is that it is not a pile of pilgrim stones at all. Most of the material consists of sizeable rocks - there is even an occasional lump of concrete and the odd brick. No pilgrim in their right mind deposited a stone weighing 20kg at the foot...
It's lovely, and worth it for the opportunity to stay with Tiago in his quirky and comfortable albergue/house. He is an exceptionally kind hospitalero. I was unwell on arrival, and he went out of his way to help me during several days of incapacity.
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