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  1. alhartman

    Cobblestones on the Portugues

    I walked Lisbon towards Santiago in September 2017as a 75th birthday present to myself. It was my final camino and the only one that I had to quit--because both my Achilles were 'torn'. I am sure it is my individual body structure, but I could not find a way to protect against the cobbles...
  2. alhartman

    An evocative short film from BBC

    I adored Tomar!! But never got to the East Bank of Nabao. Spent lots of time in the Castle and the ancient Synagogue. Fascinating period of history. I guess I will need to get back to catch what I missed. Hostel 2300 was wonderful as well.
  3. alhartman

    I should have lived the moment

    Regret and nostalgia are part of us--and mindfulness. Go with it!! As one wag (female Anglican priest) said on my 2005 camino: "you can walk thru the valley of the shadow of death, just don't set up camp there!" I am currently going thru years of slides and emails from 'caminos' in an...
  4. alhartman

    If You Only Had Time To Spend In One City: Porto vs. Lisbon

    Porto--half the size, twice the charm.
  5. alhartman

    Recommend stay Rates or Pedra Furada ?

    two years ago--Rates was a wonderful stay-about same time of year. Over 4 hours of hobbling from Sao Pedro de Rates to Pedra Furada; where I caught a cab to Barcelos finally giving in to both Achilles: then train to Lisbon, then new flight to East Coast. The coffee was good as I awaited the cab...
  6. alhartman

    Best time to start from Porto in the fall

    I started in Lisbon Sept 29 2017 and weather was too hot for me (25-31) so Tourigrino thru : Santarem, Tomar, Fatima, Coimbra-- then restart Porto Oct 9. Weather was perfect, always able to walk alone, always able to find dinner companions, always a bed, food was great, Portuguese very...
  7. alhartman

    Will I Be Disappointed?

    Disappointment is about the failure of hopes/expectations. Both CF and CP are wonderful but different experiences. Even though I injured out of the CP, I loved it mainly because I always got to walk alone and always had dinner companions. But there was never a 'camino family' for me on the...
  8. alhartman

    Camino Part Deux

    A truly beautiful route and very different from the CF. For me, the cobblestones were trip ending. I never could find the protective combination of LT Tape, ankle braces, insoles, pole use to protect my Achilles--both were injured after 9 days Lisbon-Porto then 4 days from Porto. I hope to do...
  9. alhartman

    Etiquette for shared paths

    "Here lies the body of Johnny O'Day Who died Preserving His Right of Way. He was Right, Dead Right, as he sailed along But he's just as dead as if he'd been wrong"
  10. alhartman

    Etiquette for shared paths

    I cannot tar all cyclists with the same brush. At Poblacion about 12 Ukrainian cyclists camped in the yard and shared food with us all; sadly never part of camino family since they moved so fast. And I walked an injured French cyclist from the road where he fell and broke a hip in front of Ave...
  11. alhartman

    Etiquette for shared paths

    Real and growing problem, it most certainly is. But it will take some higher authority to set out the rules. Just like with skateboards in city streets and motorcycle dirt bikes in the 'wilderness, and cell phone use in motor vehicles. Common sense/courtesy is not so common! But each of us...
  12. alhartman

    Wises or Brierley

    Fall 2017, I used the Brierly maps and Wisely app on my iPhone for navigation/distances and resources like places to sleep. Loved that pairing but notice that Wisely has changes to the format and do not like as well.
  13. alhartman

    Woman walking from Lisbon, hoping for input

    Walked solo (male so cannot address female risks) Oct 2017. Intermittent walking tho because of Achilles injury. Left permanently north of Porto after Sao Pedro de Rates. I loved all the walking I got to do--even the industrial stuff out of Lisbon. Loved the Portuguese. Loved the food. Loved...
  14. alhartman

    Starting tomorrow...

    It is a wonderful route!!. Fall 2017 I had to quit early because I could not adjust to all the cobblestone walking; and blew both Achilles. That said, one Canadian walked past me having lost her boots and was happy in zoris--so it is a matter of personal physiology. bom caminho
  15. alhartman

    Best Times?

    I started in Lisbon 1 Oct 2017. I loved what walking I was able to do: friendly locals, good food, enough fellow pilgrims for social dinners, nice albergues, near solitude on the trail. Temperatures from Lisbon too hot (90s) for this Oregon boy, so became a touragrino-- Tomar, Fatima, Coimbra...
  16. alhartman

    Warning to Women Walking Solo

    In thinking about safety; and remembering my past time as sea kayaker. I like the whistle idea for communication. I carry one (Fox40) as part of my solo hiking/emergency kit for the Sierras and now Cascades. A whistle carries further and lasts longer than a voice: Although there is no true...
  17. alhartman

    Warning to Women Walking Solo

    As an aging privileged white male, I am not sure I can add/participate in this discussion. The whole thread saddens and disturbs me. But I will be more proactive in offering up walking companionship for females walking alone. I walked at least some of the Lisbon-Porto route last September...
  18. alhartman

    Is there any end to the concrete?

    I had to leave the CP in fall 2017 after just 8 days Lisbon-Porto (too hot for this Oregon boy), then just 5 more from Porto. Even with walking sticks, good boot inserts, daily taping with precut kinesiology tape both of my achilles tendons were so injured that my pace dropped below 2km/hr. So...
  19. alhartman

    The cost of Portuguese Camino

    I stayed last year at the very last open night in Alpriate--Sunday Oct 1.

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