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Leiras. When you enter the town, there's an albergue on the right hand side of the road run by a young Italian couple. Great food and even greater conversation. They've walked the walk, are very intense; it was the most meaningful stay of my Camino.
Zamora itself is pretty neat; this past September 1-15 I served as a hospitalero there at the municipal albergue. We would typically allow pilgrims to stay an extra night if it wasn't full up, although that is a possibility. There's a good amount to see, all pretty close by, and the food is...
I agree, the Monastery in Oseira is a really interesting stop. Also, I highly recommend the albergue in Leira run by, as Brierley mentions, a young Italian couple - I had a memorable experience there. May return.
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