Bad Pilgrim
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yes
For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
That seems strange, unless the Screaming Teens have followed you over here.an there be so many pilgrims as to fill up both La Torre and the albergue??
Of course you will! No doubt!Thanks for info,
I am in Villalibre now. Mesa para 2 was closed, but Ruta 98 open so time for breakfast. I am about to begin the ascent to Cornatel soon... Hearts will snap, swearing will occur... Wild animals will attack... But I will make it...
Thank you for the chuckleThanks for info,
I am in Villalibre now. Mesa para 2 was closed, but Ruta 98 open so time for breakfast. I am about to begin the ascent to Cornatel soon... Hearts will snap, swearing will occur... Wild animals will attack... But I will make it...
When I was in Las Medulas in 2018, there was a hotel (full) so I went to the tourist center and they directed me to a private house very close-by and had a lovely stay with a family there. I loved staying in Las Medulas. Got there early enough to take a long hike through the park. I highly recommend it. But I did find that getting accommodations on the Invierno was quite difficult in 2018 and I eventually moved to other Caminos (after my third consecutive night of problems -- one night I had to take the train back to Ponferrada to stay at the albergue there because I could not find anything anywhere). I passed several albergues that were closed due to lack of pilgrims. I hope now that Brierley has published a guide to the Camino Invierno that traffic will increase over the next couple of years. The landscape was spectacular and I hope to return in 2022 or 2023.I am in Ponferrada now, hostal San Miguel, 30 euros. Centric. Laundromat a stone's throw away. I don't know if the municipal and the private albergue in Ponferrada are full; that would surprise me. They are both good.
What I do know, for the next stage, is that Casa Socorro is closed in (L)as Médulas. When I asked señora Socorro for alternative accomodation in (L)as Médulas, she did not mention the albergue La Senda that is supposed to be in the same pueblo: does that mean La Senda is also closed? I forgot to ask her. Booking says other options are completo as well. There was a place in nearby Orellán though, 40 euros.
Anyway, I always prefer to stay in Puente de Domingo Flórez (after Médulas). I phoned Hostal La Torre and they were full. The girl told me that it has been like this for a while and that it would probably continue to be difficult to find a room there.
I phoned the new albergue Casa Rosa, that was also completo. Casa Rosa has 8 beds according to Gronze. Can there be so many pilgrims as to fill up both La Torre and the albergue??
I phoned the Ayuntamiento in Puente de Domingo Flórez and they would provide a place for me in the polideportivo. I will give you more details tomorrow on when & where to get the keys, what the polideportivo is like, if it is free and so on.
I know much of this can change from one day to another, for example what is available on Booking and what is not. But it gives you a hint of how difficult it can be to find a place to stay right now!
When I was in Las Medulas in 2018, there was a hotel (full) so I went to the tourist center and they directed me to a private house very close-by and had a lovely stay with a family there. I loved staying in Las Medulas. Got there early enough to take a long hike through the park. I highly recommend it. But I did find that getting accommodations on the Invierno was quite difficult in 2018 and I eventually moved to other Caminos (after my third consecutive night of problems -- one night I had to take the train back to Ponferrada to stay at the albergue there because I could not find anything anywhere). I passed several albergues that were closed due to lack of pilgrims. I hope now that Brierley has published a guide to the Camino Invierno that traffic will increase over the next couple of years. The landscape was spectacular and I hope to return in 2022 or 2023.
Does it come with ghosts?smashed windows, something that sounds like a metal door slamming shut twice a minute because of the wind... But it comes with an extra metal fence in in front of the doors: protection against roaming teenagers! This place should be on Booking, all I'm saying.
If it's the same big brown dog with the 2 little white helpers that I encountered in 2019, they live just before the mastiff's house. Those helpers loved my heels - little nippers. I wonder if the mastiff is still of this world? He was was pretty tottery when I met him - he wandered out a couple of steps, gave one half-hearted bark and went back to lay down.Ponferrada - Puente de Domingo Flórez: Updates!
Villavieja: There was actually a really big, brown dog that started to bark at me when I walked by. He had two small, white helpers with him. But a man shouted to him from within a house to be quiet, and then he didn't move a millimeter. I don't know if it is the mastiff people have been talking about.
Palacio do Sil is a wonderful place. Bit more pricey but a beautiful old farmhouse and grounds with lovely hosts - Alban and Julia.There are more places in A Rúa, for example Hotel Berna and Palacio do Sil. It is all on Gronze...
I just went through the Gronze list to find a place for tomorrow in A Rúa.
My beloved Hostal Fabio was full (gasp); that has never happened to me before. That was a hard blow! Something weird is going on.
O Pillabán didn't answer.
Hostal Niza did answer, and that is where I stay tomorrow.
I have been turned down by hostals and albergues so many times now (even on the Ebro where I was before), so each time they say there IS a room I almost can't believe it.
There are more places in A Rúa, for example Hotel Berna and Palacio do Sil. It is all on Gronze...
I stayed there in 2019 and was charmed by the elderly proprieters Antonio and Lorraina. They are both so friendly and kind, with old-school manners. I've been wondering how they're faring. (Lorraina is a talker, just so you know.)Hostal Niza did answer, and that is where I stay tomorrow
I just called Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez. The woman there told me that the slate quarry nearby is undertaking 24/7 operations for some big projects. They have brought in workers who all stay in the hostal. They are booked through September. She did say, though, that it is worth calling, because if BP had been calling last night, there would have been a spot. So it’s best to call a few days before and again on the day itself. Weekends are much easier, usually possible.Something weird is going on.
I just called Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez. The woman there told me that the slate quarry nearby is undertaking 24/7 operations for some big projects. They have brought in workers who all stay in the hostal. They are booked through September. She did say, though, that it is worth calling, because if BP had been calling last night, there would have been a spot. So it’s best to call a few days before and again on the day itself. Weekends are much easier, usually possible.
I am also going to try to contact the Fabio to see if something similar is going on.
I was almost going to book it: 50 euros on Booking. And after a free night in the polideportivo, I had saved up for something more expensive... Next time perhaps!Palacio do Sil is a wonderful place. Bit more pricey but a beautiful old farmhouse and grounds with lovely hosts - Alban and Julia.
Mission accomplished! I showed her the foto; she remembered you! She says Thanks and Hi and Best wishes (yes she is talkative)Please say hola from me with good wishes and thanks for their kindness (the attached pic may jog their memory).
I stayed at Hostal Quiper - a good rest there and nice bar downstairs. It wasn't open in the morning for breakfast but the bakery across from the albergue opens early (at least it did in 2019) Had a delicious dinner at the Restaurante Casa Aroza - close to Quiper.Albergue in Quiroga did not answer my call; I got restless and secured a room at Hostal Quiper instead.
I really loved this place, for all of its antiquated vibe. Glad they're good. I take it there are more pilgrims now? Surprising. But if the planning messages here on the Forum are anything to go by, the anticipated surge may be coming.You were one of her first pilgrims, she said, as there weren't so many a few years ago!
Ah, good to know. Thank you, BP. I have been wondering.Asúns mother is ok at the moment! But Asún still has to care a lot for her, so no time for albergue.
You're going to be in heaven, Nuala!I plan to be on the Invierno in October and am SO looking forward to
I know, I stayed here in 2018! They are renovating their rooms (more construction workers...) but it looks even better now! The room I got for 20 euros would probably be 30-40 in other places!I stayed at Hostal Quiper - a good rest there and nice bar downstairs. It wasn't open in the morning for breakfast but the bakery across from the albergue opens early (at least it did in 2019) Had a delicious dinner at the Restaurante Casa Aroza - close to Quiper.
I saw 5 crossing the road right in front of me, on the other side of Monforte. They were way more scared of me than the other way around.they are spreading everywhere so keep your eyes open
What an incredibly thoughtful and unexpected thing to find in Alvaredo! I was intrigued by this little hamlet with it's quirky art on the buildings and posts.Alvaredo: Did you forget to charge your phone in A Rúa? Do you need to use your electric toothbrush, or dry your hair in the mountains? Don't despair! There are two sockets at the fuente outside the hamlet of Alvaredo. Picture below: proof. I tried with my charger: they work! Someone also has provided hand sanitizer, so you can handle the sockets whithout fear of Covid. Well the rain in Galicia will wash them clean anyway...
I assume you never saw Sr. Casimiro in Montefurado?
A pity: you'll probably be passing by the bar at Pension Pacita too early for their trucha.
What an incredibly thoughtful and unexpected thing to find in Alvaredo! I was intrigued by this little hamlet with it's quirky art on the buildings and posts.
Another place to like, a lot. I stayed there and had an Idyllic afternoon. Please share my greetings and good wishes!One year they were just opening when I got there. I hope for that tomorrow!
The flamingo was my favorite, but geeze...those eyes creeped me out.
A pity: you'll probably be passing by the bar at Pension Pacita too early for their trucha.
Tomorrow: Chantada. My beloved low-budget Pensión Yoel is painting all their rooms! So no one can stay until the paint dries, the lady chuckled on the phone. I will take a leap of faith and stay at (gasp)... Hostal Gamallo, that has some negative reviews on Gronze, and in the Invierno Forum guide. If anyone is interested, I will give you my uncensored opinion on Gamallo tomorrow.......
Yes. At least since the fall of 2019.OMG it is unrecognizable.
For me it was the part under the tress that was so interesting.
Is that fixed up too?
View attachment 104430View attachment 104429
I am surprised at the report that the very muddy patch of the camino after Pobre de Brollon has recently been repared. I looked for such a location when I walked through there in the fall of 2019. In spite of almost constant rain on my Invierno walk, there was no sign of such a stretch anywhere and I am sure that I reported that to the forum. Perhaps that information was not added to the Invierno guide, which I believe was no longer being updated.
Wow, I can assure you that there is nothing on the ground that looks like your second picture! As far as stepping stones: only after leaving Pobra do Brollón and they are super new flat ones; granite I believe.OMG it is unrecognizable.
For me it was the part under the tress that was so interesting.
Is that fixed up too?
View attachment 104430View attachment 104429
It IS getting hotter. I was just thinking about it. It was really hot, even during the descent to Belesar where there is mostly shadow. My feet are burning and I still have to walk up the canyon....Thinking of you today, BP, on this gorgeous stage. Hope it isn't too hot for the last part.
This report is similar to other recent reports. I am one of the ones who stayed in the Gamallo years ago (2008, or 2009, I think was my first Invierno) and it was truly one of the dirtiest places I had ever been. Maybe there has been a change of management, or attitude, but in any case this is great news.Hi BP.
The hostal Gamallo is fine. Better pensión Yoel. You can eat well in the bar below the hostal that is owned by the same owners.
I stayed twice at Yoel and two months ago at Gamallo. I would certainly repeat in Gamallo.
The price is € 15 for pilgrims.
Buen Camino.
I know, and Gronze commentators have not been kind to Gamallo. Then again, Pension Yoel has an even worse track record on Gronze. I am about to find out anyway...This report is similar to other recent reports. I am one of the ones who stayed in the Gamallo years ago (2008, or 2009, I think was my first Invierno) and it was truly one of the dirtiest places I had ever been. Maybe there has been a change of management, or attitude, but in any case this is great news.
Loving your posts, BP!
Are these the stones, BP? I took this photo after Pobra do Brollón, June 15, 2019.Oh, and already when the woods started, after leaving Pobra do Brollón, someone had put flat stones to step on in the middle of the path; that part was also soggy before. I didn't take any picture of the stones because I wasn't sure they weren't there before? But I don't remember them from 2018.
Loving your report and hoping to be out there in Sept. Do many people split the Quirora to Monteforte de Lemos stage? Wondering, with the ascents/descents, if it's not around my daily maximum!Pobra do Brollón: I never stay in Pobra do Brollón so I have no updates on accomodation there! It is a cute place though, and ideal for those who want to split this stage in two.
I think that I remember these stones from Nov. 2019 being pretty much underwater, with the relentless rain.Are these the stones, BP? I took this photo after Pobra do Brollón, June 15, 2019.
View attachment 104469
Yes!Are these the stones, BP? I took this photo after Pobra do Brollón, June 15, 2019.
View attachment 104469
Loving your report and hoping to be out there in Sept. Do many people split the Quirora to Monteforte de Lemos stage? Wondering, with the ascents/descents, if it's not around my daily maximum!
I took that little detour descending to the stepping stones across the river. In June 2019 there wasn't the fancy new mojón - just a little sign with a painted arrow. Maybe they wanted us to see the pretty old mill? It was a hot day so I was grateful for the coolness though there. Happy to see the new mojón at the San Pedro sign. When I took that uphill stretch I wrote that it was in very bad condition - deep watery mud and very overgrown path with a lot of insects and it would be better to stay on the road at that point.Up the hill from Belesar: Two minor changes since 2019, at least for me. After the restaurante Meson de Adega do Veiga: the Camino leaves the road and descends abruptly to cross a little river. Very nice, see picture 1 and 2. But then you have to climb up to the road again! This adds more climbing to the whole stretch, compared to when you stayed on the road!!
Next change is at the spot you can see in picture 3. Before, you turned left at the sign San Pedro, as indicated by the old arrows that are still visible. But a brand new waymarker tells you to continue on the road, so that is what I did.
Option 3 is the direct route over Monte Faro and down the other side, missing the entire windmill escapade. Just turn right where it tells you not to. Go on. Be a bad pilgrim!Tomorrow I am thinking of skipping Monte do Faro to see what the alternative Camino (according to Gronze) is like. But I haven't decided yet
And here I will be a rebel and bring up this forbidden possibility: it's possible to completely avoid the windmills by doing this:
At the intersection of the camino with this road, there are a whole bunch of arrows telling you DO NOT DO THIS, but I figure with a sense of direction and a good map, why not?
I took that little detour descending to the stepping stones across the river. In June 2019 there wasn't the fancy new mojón - just a little sign with a painted arrow. Maybe they wanted us to see the pretty old mill? It was a hot day so I was grateful for the coolness though there. Happy to see the new mojón at the San Pedro sign. When I took that uphill stretch I wrote that it was in very bad condition - deep watery mud and very overgrown path with a lot of insects and it would be better to stay on the road at that point.
Hi VN walkingWill do! May it be much easier than anticipated!
And wow, what a photo. Not a cloud in the sky.
(Gosh, I loved that cafe. The climb up the hill on the other side ... not so much.)
I think I must have been the one to tell you that, because I came across him just as he had fallen and was kind of like a turtle on his back trying to flip. I was glad he managed to get up as I got close because I was afraid he would pull me down into the muck if I tried to pull him up!we had met him earlier in the day and he was carrying everything but the kitchen sink so it must have been a hard fall.
OMG it is unrecognizable.
For me it was the part under the trees that was so interesting.
Is that fixed up too?
View attachment 104430View attachment 104429
35 km was a bit too much for us so we did break this stage by staying in Salcedo, a few km off the CaminoDon't know how common it is. But it is a stage of 35 kms so it would be nice to stay in Pobra do Brollón! Accomodation should be listed in the Invierno Forum guide, but who knows what Covid has done to them.
Hi, PeteAJ,Loving your report and hoping to be out there in Sept. Do many people split the Quirora to Monteforte de Lemos stage? Wondering, with the ascents/descents, if it's not around my daily maximum!
BP, are there other pilgrims there?Rodeiro: Hostal Carpinteiras seems to be the only game in town now that O Guerra is permanently closed. 22 euros,
BP, are there other pilgrims there?
I have a definite memory that there was a local news article a while back in which the amigos were talking about a re-route because that stretch is always waterlogged. Maybe that has been done? BP, did you notice a new route on the way into Monforte?
Hi BP.But back to the Camino. Talking about Google Maps: The bar O Recanto in the little hamlet A Feira doesn't even show up. So I was pepared to go hungry all the way to Rodeiro. But they exist and they were open!
The variant by Mouricios indicated by Gronze is a good alternative to avoid Monte Faro.
If there's a Romanesque church involved, I'd certainly be temptedAnd I’m pretty sure I know at least one other forum member who would be tempted to go this way as well — what do you say, VN?
Me, too.If there's a Romanesque church involved, I'd certainly be tempted
Yeah, me three, for sure!And I’m pretty sure I know at least one other forum member who would be tempted to go this way as well — what do you say, VN?
Google Lens did a reverse inage search and says it's San Miguel do Monte:is that San Cristovo de Mouricios?
Well, then that makes two romanesque churches on that short route!Google Lens did a reverse inage search and says it's San Miguel do Monte:
View attachment 104613
Oh, my.Well, then that makes two romanesque churches on that short route!
I am pretty bad with my bible stories, even though I love Romanesque. Do you know what scene is displayed in the tympanum? Looks like someone has been killed on the lower right and the main character is holding something that I can’t identify. And then there’s the guy in the upper right holding a book.-San Miguel do Monte. A few meters from the route.
If I had known that, I'd never have seen the view from the top of Monte Faro, so I guess I am glad I only know now. Gracias, El Gato Libre!In this stage (Chantada - Rodeiro) through the Mouricios variant we can visit 5 churches of rural Romanesque typology.
Hi Laurie.I am pretty bad with my bible stories, even though I love Romanesque. Do you know what scene is displayed in the tympanum?
Thanks, @FreeCat. Since I know a lot of my Invierno pals are big Romanesque fans, I think it’s ok to pursue this some more. I had thought that the thing in the main character’s hand could be a musical instrument of some kind, and so the guy lying on the ground must not be dead.Hi Laurie.
According to historians, it is a scene of minstrels where two musicians and a dancer sang, in a propagandistic way, about the relics and tombs of the saints on the Camino de Santiago.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?