LIVE from the Camino John’s Invierno July 2023

[John Saxon]

Just started today (July 1) walking solo after volunteering as an hospitalero in the San Nicolas Albergue in Ponferrada. Using the bag transport service with Manuel at Casa Mar. For the first pick up, Manuel met me at Café Rabel. The bar on the plaza at Toral de Merayo was open when I walked by at 9 am on a Saturday but I didn’t stop. Saw only four pilgrims on my first day. Arrived in Borrenes at 2:45 pm after stops in Villavieja for sandwich that I packed and visit to Castilo de Cornatel (just over seven hours total). Temperature was 34 Celsius when I arrived. The castle is open Wednesdays through Sundays between 11 an and 2 pm, and then from 4 to 8 free for pilgrims. Didn’t enjoy the asphalt road from the castle down to Borrenes. Looking forward to the journey. Will get an earlier start tomorrow to avoid the heat and allow some time to visit the galleries at Las Medulas.

 

[LTfit]

Do visit Las Médulas, they are incredible!

I'll be in Ponferrada in 3 days (doing the Olvidado then the Invierno).

It must have been busy in San Nicolas de Flüe. I've volunteered there twice, once during Semana Santa and once in January.

 

[John Saxon]

Do visit Las Médulas, they are incredible!

I'll be in Ponferrada in 3 days (doing the Olvidado then the Invierno).

It must have been busy in San Nicolas de Flüe. I've volunteered there twice, once during Semana Santa and once in January.

There were two days when we had very large groups staying downstairs. The first week we were full or almost full most of the time. Last week half to 3/4 full most of the time. Two of my fellow hospitaleros/hospitaleras are also walking the Invierno ((staying at Las Medulas tonight and sent incredible photos).

 

[peregrina2000]

There were two downs when we had very large groups staying downstairs. The first week we were full or almost full most of the time. Last week half to 3/4 full most of the time. Two of my fellow hospitaleros/hospitaleras are also walking the Invierno ((staying at Las Medulas tonight and sent incredible photos).

So glad to have another Invierno thread to follow. @John Saxon, I hope you will consider putting all of your Invierno posts in this thread (we can change the title of the thread from “Day 1” to something like “My Invierno, June 2023” or whatever you want). It is so much more helpful to forum members and easier to follow you if you have one continuous string that puts it all in order. AND, having one single thread will be be a huge help to those who look back at live threads as they plan their upcoming Invierno. (For an example, look at the recent live threads — Lana, Viejo, Olvidado, Salvador, etc — and buen camino!).

 

[nycwalking]

I volunteered there in 2002.

Wonderful times.

Father Miguel Ángel was wonderful.

Buen camino.

 

[AnneMarie1]

Just started today (July 1) walking solo after volunteering as an hospitalero in the San Nicolas Albergue in Ponferrada. Using the bag transport service with Manuel at Casa Mar. For the first pick up, Manuel met me at Café Rabel. The bar on the plaza at Toral de Merayo was open when I walked by at 9 am on a Saturday but I didn’t stop. Saw only four pilgrims on my first day. Arrived in Borrenes at 2:45 pm after stops in Villavieja for sandwich that I packed and visit to Castilo de Cornatel (just over seven hours total). Temperature was 34 Celsius when I arrived. The castle is open Wednesdays through Sundays between 11 an and 2 pm, and then from 4 to 8 free for pilgrims. Didn’t enjoy the asphalt road from the castle down to Borrenes. Looking forward to the journey. Will get an earlier start tomorrow to avoid the heat and allow some time to visit the galleries at Las Medulas.

I finished that route (after starting on the Aragonese) a few days ago. I’m going to write something here about it once I’m reunited with my laptop. Buen Camino. That route is tough! I also used Manuel’s pack transport service (after not using any like that from Somport to Ponferrada!) because of the need to bring all your water and food on multiple stages of that route. A big tip: if Gronze or other places indicate that there’s a bar or something in a town, it might be only one, and it will close if they’re not getting many customers that day. So never count on it unless it’s a larger town with several. And nothing opens in O Barco or A Rúa until 10. I sure don’t envy you doing it in this heat!

 

[John Saxon]

I finished that route (after starting on the Aragonese) a few days ago. I’m going to write something here about it once I’m reunited with my laptop. Buen Camino. That route is tough! I also used Manuel’s pack transport service (after not using any like that from Somport to Ponferrada!) because of the need to bring all your water and food on multiple stages of that route. A big tip: if Gronze or other places indicate that there’s a bar or something in a town, it might be only one, and it will close if they’re not getting many customers that day. So never count on it unless it’s a larger town with several. And nothing opens in O Barco or A Rúa until 10. I sure don’t envy you doing it in this heat!

Thanks for the tip on bars. Heat hasn’t been horrible so far (2 days).

 

[John Saxon]

Day 2 Borrenes to Puente de Domingo Flores via Orellan, Mirador de Orellan, and Las Medulas. Short day circa 20 km , 535 m gain and less than 6 hours. Navigated from Borrenes to Orellan via GPS. Parts of the path were overgrown and only one yellow arrow at footbridge but not bad. Didn’t get to visit old Roman galleries (open at 11 am). Staying at one of the nicest, most comfortable, most beautiful, most welcoming albergues I’ve stayed at on any of the Camino routes I’ve walked. Casa Rosa in Domingo Florez. Only one other pilgrim here so far. A Camino friend from the US has asked me to be on the lookout for Rebecca from Villaviciosa (formerly Asheville, NC) who started a few days ago.

 

[Glenshiro]

Blimey! All these peregrinos! I went days on end without seeing a soul. It's a great route. Wonderful scenery. Do try and stay with Pension Pacita if you can, after Quiroga. Heat hasn't been too bad.

 

[Robo]

Blimey! All these peregrinos! I went days on end without seeing a soul. It's a great route. Wonderful scenery. Do try and stay with Pension Pacita if you can, after Ortega. Heat hasn't been too bad.

Pension Pacita is great.

 

[CaroleH]

This is wonderful @John Saxon... thanks for sharing. I'll be following along as I'm redoing the Invierno with 3 friends in Sept. Have noted your recommendation for Casa Rosa in Domingo Florez.
Buen camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

This is wonderful @John Saxon... thanks for sharing. I'll be following along as I'm redoing the Invierno with 3 friends in Sept. Have noted your recommendation for Casa Rosa in Domingo Florez.
Buen camino.

Carole!!! Not to derail, but omg, it’s been a long time. I remember (I think) that the last time I saw you we had lunch with the organist at the cathedral in Santiago who was then under suspicion as one of the few with easy access to the Codex. That was many years ago.

The numbers do seem to be inching up on the Invierno, and I think the accommodations are likely to be just fine. Casa Rosa is a new one and gets lots of raves. What year was your last Invierno?

 

[John Saxon]

As The Rolling Stones sang: “Please allow me to introduce myself…”
I’m one of the coordinators for the Raleigh (North Carolina) chapter of the American Pilgrims on the Camino. I’ve walked a number of Caminos in Spain, France and Portugal in six of the last nine years. Walking the Invierno seemed like a no-brainer since I was volunteering as an hospitalero in Ponferrada.
Just celebrated my 72nd birthday and 50th wedding anniversary. Semi-retired Unitarian minister and bagpiper.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 3 on the Invierno. Puente Domingo Florez to A Rua. Circa 32+ km. About 8.5 hours. Grateful for cloudy skies this morning. Stopped to say hello to Manuel at Bar Mar. Sunny afternoon and temps rose to 30 but not too bad with strong west wind. Wasn’t fond of long slog beside highway between O Barco and Vilamartin. Encountered only one other pilgrim (my dorm mate from last night. Total five so far. Two of my hospitalero friends reported that the municipal albergue was so dirty they wouldn’t stay there. Wish I’d taken the “Camino natural” option on the south side of the Sil from O Barco to A Rua but I’d seen an earlier report of one of the bridges being closed.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 3 on the Invierno. Puente Domingo Florez to A Rua. Circa 32+ km. About 8.5 hours. Grateful for cloudy skies this morning. Stopped to say hello to Manuel at Bar Mar. Sunny afternoon and temps rose to 30 but not too bad with strong west wind. Wasn’t fond of long slog beside highway between O Barco and Vilamartin. Encountered only one other pilgrim (my dorm mate from last night. Total five so far. Two of my hospitalero friends reported that the municipal albergue was so dirty they wouldn’t stay there. Wish I’d taken the “Camino natural” option on the south side of the Sil from O Barco to A Rua but I’d seen an earlier report of one of the bridges being closed.View attachment 151230View attachment 151238View attachment 151229

 

[John Saxon]

Day 4. A Rua to Quiroga. A really nice walk. Grateful for shade most of the morning. Appreciated wooden paintings of faces and animals in the trees.
Only one “new” pilgrim on the way (italiano) making just six that I’ve seen since leaving Ponferrada.
There donativo stands with fruit, nuts, and water at Albaredos and Montefurado. Cantina open at Soldon. Marta says she’ll be open through September. Nice place for a break to eat your picnic or her offerings.
My app showed 28.5 km (walking time 6.25 hours and total time just under 7 hours) with elevation gain of 750 meters. Brierlys guide shows 1480 meter ascent but that has to be a miscalculation.

 

[CaroleH]

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town.
Buen camino from Oz.

 

[LTfit]

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town.
Buen camino from Oz.

It's closed although not mentioned in Gronze. I had WhatsApp contact with them about a week ago and they said that it has been closed since October 2022!

 

[LTfit]

I'll be two days behind you. Now in Ponferrada after walking the Olvidado and will take the bus to A Rúa this afternoon (already walked Ponferrada - A Rúa).

The albergue was busy yesterday. It was my first time in 18 days that I slept in the same room as other pilgrims and I slept better than in days! Go figure. I chatted for quite some time with the Dutch hospi.

Look forward to hearing about your Camino. I too will be walking A Rúa - Quiroga.

 

[John Saxon]

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.

I'll be two days behind you. Now in Ponferrada after walking the Olvidado and will take the bus to A Rúa this afternoon (already walked Ponferrada - A Rúa). The albergue was busy yesterday. It was my first time in 18 days that I slept in the same room as other pilgrims and I slept better than in days! Go figure. I chatted for quite some time with the Dutch hospi. Look forward to hearing about your Camino. I too will be walking A Rúa - Quiroga.

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.

As

Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town.
Buen camino from Oz.

you see from another post, the albergue is closed. Another pilgrim and I stayed at Hostal Quiper. There is some construction going on with noise and dust but the workers quit at 3 pm so not a real problem. Disappointed that Restaurante Aruza was open but kitchen not serving meals last night.

 

[peregrina2000]

It's closed although not mentioned in Gronze. I had WhatsApp contact with them about a week ago and they said that it has been closed since October 2022!

I’m in WhatsApp contact with a camino friend currently walking the Invierno, and he stayed in the Quiroga Albergue on Monday. I’ve asked him about it, and hopefully he will post something.

 

[John Saxon]

I'll be two days behind you. Now in Ponferrada after walking the Olvidado and will take the bus to A Rúa this afternoon (already walked Ponferrada - A Rúa).

The albergue was busy yesterday. It was my first time in 18 days that I slept in the same room as other pilgrims and I slept better than in days! Go figure. I chatted for quite some time with the Dutch hospi.

Look forward to hearing about your Camino. I too will be walking A Rúa - Quiroga.

Glad you enjoyed staying at San Nicolas. I got a chance to chat with Hans briefly during the transition. I worked with a great team of hospitaleros and hospitaleras and we got LOTS of compliments and appreciation for the welcoming environment.
Even though you say you’re two days behind me you may catch me because I’m taking it slow. In Salcedo tonight (Wednesday). Torre Vilarino on Thursday, then Vilaseco, Rodeiro, Lalin, Bandeira, Reina Lupa, and arrive early to Santiago on July 12.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 5. Quiroga to Salcedo. Nice cool walk under cloudy skies. The ascent from Nogedo looks so intimidating on an elevation map but I didn’t find it hard, just long (and closed my eyes so I didn’t see all the clear cutting.
I was thinking that I’d take a shortcut off the Camino from Barca so Lor to Salcedo using a Wikiloc trail I’d found but changed my mind and walk to Castroncelos and then country roads (pretty quiet but no shoulder and several lumber trucks). The folks at O Forno will come to pick you up if you book directly with them (which I did) but I felt like walking. 24 km. Just under 6 hrs. Elevation gain 700 meter (again significantly less than Brierly guide (RIP John).

 

[LTfit]

Glad you enjoyed staying at San Nicolas. I got a chance to chat with Hans briefly during the transition. I worked with a great team of hospitaleros and hospitaleras and we got LOTS of compliments and appreciation for the welcoming environment.
Even though you say you’re two days behind me you may catch me because I’m taking it slow. In Salcedo tonight (Wednesday). Torre Vilarino on Thursday, then Vilaseco, Rodeiro, Lalin, Bandeira, Reina Lupa, and arrive early to Santiago on July 12.

Ok then we might meet up down the line.

 

[LTfit]

I’m in WhatsApp contact with a camino friend currently walking the Invierno, and he stayed in the Quiroga Albergue on Monday. I’ve asked him about it, and hopefully he will post something.

How bizarre! The person who answered me was actually rude when I mentioned that it would be a good idea to contact Gronze. The response was "no es cosa mía". When hearing that I made a reservation at Hostal Quiper. Let me know.

 

[peregrina2000]

Barca so Lor to Salcedo using a Wikiloc trail I’d found but changed my mind and walk to Castroncelos

I think that might have been an excellent decision. Read about @laineylainey’s adventure in this thread.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 6 (part 1). Salcedo to Vilarino. 36.7 km. Just under 8 hours. Elevation gain 581 meters.
Great walking weather. Left early with mist obscuring hills and mountains and cloudy skies until afternoon.
Bar Avenida in A Pobra was open when I passed through at 7:45. The woman there told me the work on the new albergue STILL isn’t finished and she doesn’t know when it will be. She also said that as many as 25 or 20 pilgrims pass by per day depending on weather, etc. But I didn’t see any pilgrims on the way today and only six in six days. Maybe they hide behind trees when they hear me coming?
Grateful for stretches of shade from oak trees on ascent to Pineiro and Vilarino. Torre Vilarino was hopping with locals when I arrived. So far it looks like it’s going to be a great place to stay.
Update: Great dinner!!! I give Torre Vilarino two thumbs up.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 6 (part 2). Since I arrived early and was feeling good despite the distance I decided to walk down to Cabo do Mundo overlooks of Rio Minho. Followed the loop shown in wise pilgrim app. Total about 6 km and 240 meter descent. And you know what goes down has to come up!!! I enjoyed the walk and even more a dip in piscina when I got back. But I may regret it tomorrow. If you just want to go to the mirador and not do the loop it’s a short distance off the Camino.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 7. Vilarino to Vilaseco. Started off at 8 in mist with clouds filling the valley below but the mist burned off with the hour. Temps stayed 20 to 25 after the sun shone through. Short stop to see the church at Diomonde. I took the descent VERY slow. Nice views of Belasar coming into town. Knees OK. The ascent was as steep and tough as anything I’ve experienced on other routes (reminded me of ascent coming out of Conques but this one seemed longer). Took me almost a full hour to make it to Lincora. Stopped off at grocery and TI in Chantada. Picnic on bench in the shade. A bit less than 6.5 hours total to Hotel Vilaseco. Nice six low bed dorms upstairs. So far I’m the only one here (not counting a few hotel guests downstairs). Didn’t encounter any other pilgrims on the way.

 

[LTfit]

Hi John,
Congratulations on conquering the descent and ascent! I'm in Monforte de Lemos and am planning on doing it tomorrow but my right knee is still not 100% after the 800 meter rocky descent on the Olvidado. Today was good from Quiroga but the ascents and descents were very gradual. I don't want to push my luck.

I hear it is beautiful but that there is a way along the highway (several km more). I'm not keen on that but it may be a better solution. I'll have to sleep on it.

 

[John Saxon]

Hi John,
Congratulations on conquering the descent and ascent! I'm in Monforte de Lemos and am planning on doing it tomorrow but my right knee is still not 100% after the 800 meter rocky descent on the Olvidado. Today was good from Quiroga but the ascents and descents were very gradual. I don't want to push my luck.

I hear it is beautiful but that there is a way along the highway (several km more). I'm not keen on that but it may be a better solution. I'll have to sleep on it.

Good luck. Didn’t explore road option. It was the ascent that wore me out. My knees were glad when I reached the river bridge. Most of it was quite uneven and rocky so I took my time, used my sticks, and watched my footing.

 

[AnneMarie1]

Day 6 (part 1). Salcedo to Vilarino. 36.7 km. Just under 8 hours. Elevation gain 581 meters.
Great walking weather. Left early with mist obscuring hills and mountains and cloudy skies until afternoon.
Bar Avenida in A Pobra was open when I passed through at 7:45. The woman there told me the work on the new albergue STILL isn’t finished and she doesn’t know when it will be. She also said that as many as 25 or 20 pilgrims pass by per day depending on weather, etc. But I didn’t see any pilgrims on the way today and only six in six days. Maybe they hide behind trees when they hear me coming?
Grateful for stretches of shade from oak trees on ascent to Pineiro and Vilarino. Torre Vilarino was hopping with locals when I arrived. So far it looks like it’s going to be a great place to stay.
Update: Great dinner!!! I give Torre Vilarino two thumbs up.

I loved Torre Vilariño! If you can, get yourself to that ecomuseum that’s right near there. Really worthwhile. All about the history and culture of the region, and there’s a castro site on the grounds and a beautiful view, too.

 

[John Saxon]

I loved Torre Vilariño! If you can, get yourself to that ecomuseum that’s right near there. Really worthwhile. All about the history and culture of the region, and there’s a castro site on the grounds and a beautiful view, too.

So sorry I missed it. Walked right by it when I did the loop hike and looking back the museum would have been a better choice.

 

[AnneMarie1]

So sorry I missed it. Walked right by it when I did the loop hike and looking back the museum would have been a better choice.

Next time!

 

[John Saxon]

Day 8. Vilaseco to Rodeiro. 21.5 km, 600 meter elevation gain, 4 hrs and 50 minutes. Forecast rain didn’t happen but rained overnight and still got wet walking through clouds that shrouded Mt Faro and tall wet grass along the stations of the cross. Confirmed my choice of Altra trail runners that drain water and dry quickly. Early on passed one older Spanish pilgrim and a group of 20 or 30 Spanish youth walking from Monforte to Santiago. Loved Hotel Vilaseco. Bar in Penasillas was just opening at 9 am. Bar O Tecanto is closed all day on Saturday. A very good day.

 

[LTfit]

We from Monforte to Chantada got the rain instead of you. I'm one day behind, tomorrow Rodeiro.

There were 4 other Spanish pilgrims in Albergue Lemavo last night and I hear that we'll be 6 or 7 in Albergue A Pousa do Asma in Chantada but I'm the only one so far!

 

[John Saxon]

Day 9. Rodeiro to Lalin. There were five Spanish women in the other dorm last night. Assume they’re walking to Santiago but didn’t see them in the way today. Did run into the same Spanish pilgrim I saw yesterday as well as the group of 81 Spanish students from yesterday.
None of the bars in Rodeiro were open when I left. Beautiful sello in Lalin at the pilgrim information office. Tiny bit of misunderstanding with bag transport. To be safe I’ll WhatsApp Manuel every morning from here to Santiago.
Enjoyed the cool almost cold weather this morning and lovely walks on country roads and paths. Five hours, 21.5 km, and maybe 380 m elevation gain.

 

[LTfit]

Saw a picture of the wax sello from Lalín, it looks quite special

I am told that Panadería Jesús in Rodeiro is open early. I'll see tomorrow morning. No luck today. Bar in Penasillas was closed. I even left Chantada late (7.30) so as to arrive by 9.00 but it was all boarded up. O Tecanto on the other hand was open.

Where to tomorrow?

 

[John Saxon]

Saw a picture of the wax sello from Lalín, it looks quite special

I am told that Panadería Jesús in Rodeiro is open early. I'll see tomorrow morning. No luck today. Bar in Penasillas was closed. I even left Chantada late (7.30) so as to arrive by 9.00 but it was all boarded up. O Tecanto on the other hand was open.

Where to tomorrow?

I was a complete failure at locating Panaderia Jesus yesterday and this morning. I went to the address and location shown on map and app and saw at least two bakery trucks parked nearby but no signage or sign that I could see. Hope you have better luck and that it’s open early.
Tomorrow for me is Dornelas (Casa Leiras) approx 28.5 km. Will start early and make stops at Tabadoa, Silleda, and Bandeira.

 

[John Saxon]

Day 10. Lalin to Dornelas. 27.5 km. 7 hrs total. Walking time 5:45. Elevation gain somewhere between 380 and 480 meters Apple Watch and Strava don’t agree even though they’re synced
Cool enough this morning that I wore my jacket for the first 6 km. Disappointed that the church of Santiago wasn’t open and no sello. Nice walk. Met one in New Pilgrim. Japanese man who has walked the Vila de La Plata on Sanabres from Cadiz. Staying at Casa Leiras. Nice facility. No WiFi. Looking forward to dinner.
35 km to Santiago. Pick Sacra and Reina Lupa tomorrow then short walk to Santiago on Wednesday.

 

[LTfit]

I found Panadería Jesús with help from a neighbor and Ana opened up for me this morning at 6.30. If you want to see the pictures from the inside I posted on my own thread:

Post in thread 'On my way tomorrow, part 2' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/on-my-way-tomorrow-part-2.81705/post-1158868

Since I'm arriving in Santiago tomorrow afternoon (tonight alone in Albergue Trabazo in Silleda) and will be there through Thursday, I thought that I would make a new thread for a Forum meet-up in Santiago. Time and place to be determined. If you would like to join up on Wednesday or Thursday let me know.

Enjoy your last two days on the Camino!

 

[John Saxon]

I found Panadería Jesús with help from a neighbor and Ana opened up for me this morning at 6.30. If you want to see the pictures from the inside I posted on my own thread:

Post in thread 'On my way tomorrow, part 2' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/on-my-way-tomorrow-part-2.81705/post-1158868

Since I'm arriving in Santiago tomorrow afternoon (tonight alone in Albergue Trabazo in Silleda) and will be there through Thursday, I thought that I would make a new thread for a Forum meet-up in Santiago. Time and place to be determined. If you would like to join up on Wednesday or Thursday let me know.

Enjoy your last two days on the Camino!

I have to leave VERY early Thursday for flight back to US and plans to meet two hospitaleros from Ponferrada and American hospitaleras who serves at the Anglican welcome center. BUT if you’ll let me know when and where I’ll try my best. And you’re welcome to stop by Reina Lupa tomorrow to say a quick hello on your way into town.

 

[LTfit]

Had to look up Reina Lupa. Depending on timing may stop by or otherwise maybe on Wednesday in Santiago although your schedule does sounds tight.

 

[John Saxon]

Had to look up Reina Lupa. Depending on timing may stop by or otherwise maybe on Wednesday in Santiago although your schedule does sounds tight.

It’s 12:20 pm on Tuesday. Just arrived at the bar next to Reina Lupa (after detour to Pico Sacro). Just 100 meters off Camino. Do stop by if you can.

 

[VNwalking]

I missed this when it was happening but am glad to find your thread before you finish, @John Saxon. I really hope you and @LTfit manage to meet.

Didn’t enjoy the asphalt road from the castle down to Borrenes.

Yeah. That was no fun.

Pension Pacita is great.

Absolutely!

She also said that as many as 25 or 20 pilgrims pass by per day depending on weather, etc.

Amazing. That's many more than I saw in 11 days. And now gianormous school groups?! Don't tell @Bad Pilgrim.

I found Panadería Jesús with help from a neighbor and Ana opened up for me this morning at 6.30

Oh! Going to check your photos now, @LTfit ..

 

[John Saxon]

Day 11. Dornelas to Deseiro with detour to Pico Sacro. Short walk 21.9 km under cloudy skies. 600+ meter elevation gain. 5.25 hrs total.
Couldn’t see spires in Santiago from Pico Sacro but still glad to have made the climb.
Cafe Rios in Ponte Ulla is temporarily closed. Sello from O Cruciero up on the highway. Met up with @LTfit at Reina Lupa. The large Spanish group will also arrive in Santiago tomorrow Rumors of botofumero. Will make short walk (10 kn) to Santiago tomorrow. It’s been a great walk and I’ll post more about arrival and reflections soon. Stay tuned.

 

[VNwalking]

Met up with @LTfit at Reina Lupa.

Yay!

 

[LTfit]

Thanks @John Saxon for the clara! It was lovely chatting with you at Reina Lupa but after one hour I needed to carry on to Santiago.

Exactly 2 hours after leaving you I arrived in Plaza Obradoiro . Not one pilgrim seen along the way.

May you have a wonderful stroll into Santiago tomorrow.

 

[John Saxon]

I’ll be on the lookout for you tomorrow.

 

[peregrina2000]

Couldn’t see spires in Santiago from Pico Sacro but still glad to have made the climb.

Would love to hear more. I take it you went up before going on to Reina Lupa. Is there an obvious turn-off, or did you have to plot a detour? What’s it like up there? It would be nice if there were some sort of information about the Reina Lupa legend and how Pico Sacro is a part of it.

 

[John Saxon]

I

Would love to hear more. I take it you went up before going on to Reina Lupa. Is there an obvious turn-off, or did you have to plot a detour? What’s it like up there? It would be nice if there were some sort of information about the Reina Lupa legend and how Pico Sacro is a part of it.

went up in 2019 but it was first light so I wanted to try again. Directions in Brierlys Sanabres guide. About 100 meter past the Outeiro albergue take the road to the right. At T intersection turn left. At next T intersection turn left. Then right on signed access road. To return to the route go back down access road, turn right and continue until rejoin route. Adds about 2 km to the route and maybe a couple of hundred meters elevation gain.
I think I’ve heard a couple of different versions of the legend. One that Queen Lupa sent the disciples to the Pico to find oxen to carry the body to Libredon but the oxen turned into wild bulls who had to be defeated and made docile by the disciples. The other I think involved a dragon that the Queen intended to devour the disciples. Of course, it is all legend and not history. And there are a couple of other nearby sites that claim that they are the locale of the legendary events.

 

[John Saxon]

I’m having trouble posting photos but will post some taken on Pico Sacro when I have better connection. Might try one now.

 

[peregrina2000]

About 100 meter past the Outeiro albergue take the road to the right. At T intersection turn left. At next T intersection turn left. Then right on signed access road. To return to the route go back down access road, turn right and continue until rejoin route. Adds about 2 km to the route and maybe a couple of hundred meters elevation gain.

Oh that’s so helpful, it seems much more direct than anything I had read about before. I even found wikiloc tracks that seem to mirror your instructions.

Outeiro - Pico Sacro - Santiago de Compostela

Outeiro - Pico Sacro - Santiago de Compostela Hiking trail in Vilanova, Galicia (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Buen camino and many thanks, Laurie

 

[LTfit]

I’ll be on the lookout for you tomorrow.

I'm already in the Cathedral for the 12:00 mass. I've always had to stand so decided to come early. I guess you've arrived. At 9.30 I wandered down to the Plaza de Obradoiro to see if you were around but no luck.

I just ran into the young kids I saw yesterday. One yelled out hola! and another said, she's the one from yesterday haha.

Hope you have an enjoyable meet up with your friends.