"Hi all,
Last fall I walked the Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago. It was a great peregrino experience and much less traveled than the Camino Frances.
As always, there were some changes and challenges along the way; details that differed from the CSJ small guide.
Here are my notes, for anyone interested in following this route in the near future. I've also passed them along the Alison Raju so that she might consider adding them to the next revision.
a. recommended place to stay in Seville: Hostal Backpacker's Triana on Triana St. about 22E. The Association there has odd hours and didn't speak much English. If you're pressed for time, better to get credential at the Cathedral.
b. Castilblanco de los Arroyos- stopped at the petrol station, the refugio was open, fine until 10pm when all the local drunks and homeless came and made it impossible to stay there. Feces spread on floor in toilet. They need to keep this locked or have a hospitalero. Dangerous for singles. I finally left at 11pm and went to Pension Salvadora 10E
c. El Real de la Jara- refugio on Pablo Picasso St. just as you enter town. 8E.
d. Monasterio- refugio closed, stayed at Hotel Moya 20E
e. Fuentes de Cantos- albergue in convent, 12E
f. Zafra- albergue in Convent San Francisco, 15E
g. Almendralejo- stayed at Irene's (house) #33 Ave. de San Antonio, 15E
h. Merida- now has pilgrim's albergue. Turn left off bridge and head 200 yds. along the river. 6E
i. Alcuescar- can stay at Monastery of the Slaves, Mary and the Poor. They serve dinner. Donativo. Noisy during October 8 festival.
j. Valdesalor- slept on floor in city council chamber; shower available n/c
k. Canaveral- albergue on the street next to Hotel Malaga, #3, donativo
l. Galisteo- stayed in Albergue Rusticio (6E), Hotel Medina Ghaliayah is another possibility
m. Jarilla- Hostal Asturias (18.80E)
n. Banos de Montemayor- albergue was filled with package tourists. I stayed in Don Diego Pension (13E). Very nice, central, close to spas
o. San Pedro de Rozados- stayed in cozy, home-like Albergue Miliario, calle Rosario 14 (8E) Trail was badly marked this day. Got lost on top of mountain by crosses and caught cattle path to the road.
p. Salmanca- stayed in new refugio next to gardens (4E) interesting Art Nouveau museum
nearby
q. El Cubo de Tierra del Vino- stayed in refugio at church; bed bugs and chiggers in beds. Poor condition. The path was unmarked today because of road construction
r. Zamora- refugio is still not open. The policia direct people to a Youth Hostel that is not accepting pilgrims this time of year when it houses only students. Eventually went to El Bar Jardin (12E)
s. Montemarta- new albergue (4E) well marked. Open all the time. Trail is again badly marked.
t. Granja de Moreruela- Casa de la Cultura, finished now (5E). village dancing on weekend night. Trail mostly unmarked today.
u. Tabara- albergue, donativo
v. Calzadilla de Tera- new albergue is just behind bus stop on road at entry into town. Room for seniors is downstairs. 6 beds upstairs. Hot showers. Donativo. Get key from Mayor.
w. Cernadilla- very cozy stone cabin for pilgrims. (3E) Get key from Mayor. Store closes early.
x. Puebla de Sanabria- stayed at Colegio Concertado (6E) run by nuns
y. Lubian- refugio (3E)
z. Lawa- (Laza) internet facilities
aa. Vilar de Barrio- very nice, new refugio in town square, donativo
bb. Ourense- albergue at the convent de San Francisco, donativo, internet nearby
cc. Cea- internet facility in community center, across from small park, odd hours
dd. Oseira- stayed at monastery, very cold, damp, cavernous, moldy room. Not recommended. Separate from the main monastery and unable to share food with the brothers. No showers. Dirty. Like being buried alive. NOT recommended. No market. Cafes are rather expensive. Nice Mass.
ee. A Laxe- modern, new refugio. Very nice. Good restaurant, Marie Jose, where they fix dinner earlier for pilgrims. Pilgrim friendly.
ff. Vedra- new albergue, donativo, very good condition. Restaurant at bottom of hill, quite a trek but good food.
gg. Santiago- highly recommend the private albergue St. Lazarro, much less crowded, clean sheets (yes, sheets), huge kitchen, near bus stop to town and airport. Only 45 minute walk to cathedral. (7-10E)
Ultreya!
Brandon Wilson
author, Along the Templar Trail
VF 2000-2001"
Last fall I walked the Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago. It was a great peregrino experience and much less traveled than the Camino Frances.
As always, there were some changes and challenges along the way; details that differed from the CSJ small guide.
Here are my notes, for anyone interested in following this route in the near future. I've also passed them along the Alison Raju so that she might consider adding them to the next revision.
a. recommended place to stay in Seville: Hostal Backpacker's Triana on Triana St. about 22E. The Association there has odd hours and didn't speak much English. If you're pressed for time, better to get credential at the Cathedral.
b. Castilblanco de los Arroyos- stopped at the petrol station, the refugio was open, fine until 10pm when all the local drunks and homeless came and made it impossible to stay there. Feces spread on floor in toilet. They need to keep this locked or have a hospitalero. Dangerous for singles. I finally left at 11pm and went to Pension Salvadora 10E
c. El Real de la Jara- refugio on Pablo Picasso St. just as you enter town. 8E.
d. Monasterio- refugio closed, stayed at Hotel Moya 20E
e. Fuentes de Cantos- albergue in convent, 12E
f. Zafra- albergue in Convent San Francisco, 15E
g. Almendralejo- stayed at Irene's (house) #33 Ave. de San Antonio, 15E
h. Merida- now has pilgrim's albergue. Turn left off bridge and head 200 yds. along the river. 6E
i. Alcuescar- can stay at Monastery of the Slaves, Mary and the Poor. They serve dinner. Donativo. Noisy during October 8 festival.
j. Valdesalor- slept on floor in city council chamber; shower available n/c
k. Canaveral- albergue on the street next to Hotel Malaga, #3, donativo
l. Galisteo- stayed in Albergue Rusticio (6E), Hotel Medina Ghaliayah is another possibility
m. Jarilla- Hostal Asturias (18.80E)
n. Banos de Montemayor- albergue was filled with package tourists. I stayed in Don Diego Pension (13E). Very nice, central, close to spas
o. San Pedro de Rozados- stayed in cozy, home-like Albergue Miliario, calle Rosario 14 (8E) Trail was badly marked this day. Got lost on top of mountain by crosses and caught cattle path to the road.
p. Salmanca- stayed in new refugio next to gardens (4E) interesting Art Nouveau museum
nearby
q. El Cubo de Tierra del Vino- stayed in refugio at church; bed bugs and chiggers in beds. Poor condition. The path was unmarked today because of road construction
r. Zamora- refugio is still not open. The policia direct people to a Youth Hostel that is not accepting pilgrims this time of year when it houses only students. Eventually went to El Bar Jardin (12E)
s. Montemarta- new albergue (4E) well marked. Open all the time. Trail is again badly marked.
t. Granja de Moreruela- Casa de la Cultura, finished now (5E). village dancing on weekend night. Trail mostly unmarked today.
u. Tabara- albergue, donativo
v. Calzadilla de Tera- new albergue is just behind bus stop on road at entry into town. Room for seniors is downstairs. 6 beds upstairs. Hot showers. Donativo. Get key from Mayor.
w. Cernadilla- very cozy stone cabin for pilgrims. (3E) Get key from Mayor. Store closes early.
x. Puebla de Sanabria- stayed at Colegio Concertado (6E) run by nuns
y. Lubian- refugio (3E)
z. Lawa- (Laza) internet facilities
aa. Vilar de Barrio- very nice, new refugio in town square, donativo
bb. Ourense- albergue at the convent de San Francisco, donativo, internet nearby
cc. Cea- internet facility in community center, across from small park, odd hours
dd. Oseira- stayed at monastery, very cold, damp, cavernous, moldy room. Not recommended. Separate from the main monastery and unable to share food with the brothers. No showers. Dirty. Like being buried alive. NOT recommended. No market. Cafes are rather expensive. Nice Mass.
ee. A Laxe- modern, new refugio. Very nice. Good restaurant, Marie Jose, where they fix dinner earlier for pilgrims. Pilgrim friendly.
ff. Vedra- new albergue, donativo, very good condition. Restaurant at bottom of hill, quite a trek but good food.
gg. Santiago- highly recommend the private albergue St. Lazarro, much less crowded, clean sheets (yes, sheets), huge kitchen, near bus stop to town and airport. Only 45 minute walk to cathedral. (7-10E)
Ultreya!
Brandon Wilson
author, Along the Templar Trail
VF 2000-2001"