For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
Stunning!Monday morning started with what turned out to be a minor hick-up, but what could have been a major disaster. Pretty much all the trains from my hometown to the airport were cancelled during my window of transportation.
After some shuffling with possibilities it turned out okay, so I arrived later but not too late at Schiphol. Never assume, Purky! Sure thing, buddy. Everything else went smooth.
I was well taken care of at hostal Linares in SdC. Three Italians and a Dane shared a room with me. One of them snored, but I don't know which one. I suspect it was one of the Italian ladies, but Ohropax saved the night.
Today, Tuesday, was train day again. SdC to Leon, just about five hours. The plan was to arrive in Leon, get my Salvador credencial at Albergue de Peregrinos "San Francisco de Asís" and move fast to the Parador, where the Camino del Salvador starts.
Because I have limited time, I wanted to combine train day with the first leg to Cabanillas, 17 km in. I left Leon around 14:30 and arrived at the albergue at six. So that worked out well: cutting the Salvador in four-and-a-half days.
Before I left I was a bit worried about the weather, but that turned out good too. Good? Glorious! I couldn't have hoped for better. So now I'm settled in at the albergue in Cabanillas, which I have to myself, preparing for an early night. No bars here, and I can't be bothered to walk 2 km for a drink. (And 2 km back)
I'm aiming for Poladura tomorrow, 34 km from here. Start early and keep moving. It might be too soon to say, but after leaving Carbajal I'm very happy with the Salvador. Hoping for more tomorrow.
Hi PurkyIf I'm not mistaken, I just had a coffee and a bocadillo to go at the former Parador near Pajares. Operated by Mirador?
@NualaOC: glad to be of help!
@peregrina2000: the café across the street (Venta Casimiro) still exists, and is liked by both pilgrims and locals. A Spanish pilgrim informed me that it was closed today because the owner is on a two week holiday.
According to him the old Parador was taken over by a private company (so not Mirador) and not up to former standards. His words.
We start out on the Salvador in the morning.
Purky totally agree Oviedo is a wonderful city. I was there last September during the festival of San Mato and I didn't want to leave!I've been wandering around Oviedo since about noon, and I can't get over how much I like this city. Spend some time if you can!
Not a lot of time to admire the scenery then?
O my goodness, Purky. Glad you are still alive to tell the tale. I have used blablacar twice, both times from Bilbao to Pamplona, and cannot complain at all, it has been excellent for me. I just googled distance from Oviedo to Santiago. WOW!
View attachment 42713
I didn't think you were complaining. It was just my own projection of holding my breath when someone is driving too fast for my liking! And a great thing about blablacar, you are encouraged to comment on drivers, and they on passengers... very transparent.Oh, I wasn't complaining! He drove well and got the trip done real quick. I didn't mind one bit.
Hi Purky - I'm getting sorted for the del Salvador & Primitivo in Sep-Oct. This is all great info, thanks. I like your recommendations and will try to work with them. I'm looking forward to the Camino. KeithOkay, short recap of my stages (distances are approximations):
Day 1 – León – Cabanillas 17 km
Day 2 – Cabanillas - Poladura 34 km
Day 3 – Poladura – Bendueños 31 km
Day 4 – Bendueños – Mieres 25 km
Day 5 – Mieres - Oviedo 19 km
Of these stages day two and three stood out the most for me. That is where the heart of this camino lies, if I may be so bold. If you have more time, I'd try to shape those two days into three stages. Bendueños is a must-stay, by the way.
Day four, especially after Campomanes, was the least interesting in my view. A lot of tarmac, and the constant noise of the highway (which runs parallel and close to the camino for most of the way) annoyed me.
I am glad however that the last stage was a short one too (as was the first). This enabled me to really take the time to walk around Oviedo. Lots to see and enjoy. The walk to Oviedo wasn't bad either, especially the middle on the Senda Verde.
As for waymarking: if you have Enders guide and keep your eyes open, it is virtually impossible to get lost. Lots of arrows (sometimes even too many, I think) and markers. The guide is really only needed as back-up check and source of background info. Tremendous job by Ender and Laurie (translation).
I'll be spending the rest of the evening and night in Oviedo. Booked a cheap but very comfy room around the corner of the cathedral square. I needed it after spending two out of four nights with an Olympic grade snorer at the albergues.
For tomorrow I booked a rideshare back to SdC (Blablacar) that will cost me at least 12 euro's less than the bus and cuts an hour or more off my travelling time. Worth looking into... I'll let you know how it went.
I'm looking forward to the Camino.
Hi purkyMonday morning started with what turned out to be a minor hick-up, but what could have been a major disaster. Pretty much all the trains from my hometown to the airport were cancelled during my window of transportation.
After some shuffling with possibilities it turned out okay, so I arrived later but not too late at Schiphol. Never assume, Purky! Sure thing, buddy. Everything else went smooth.
I was well taken care of at hostal Linares in SdC. Three Italians and a Dane shared a room with me. One of them snored, but I don't know which one. I suspect it was one of the Italian ladies, but Ohropax saved the night.
Today, Tuesday, was train day again. SdC to Leon, just about five hours. The plan was to arrive in Leon, get my Salvador credencial at Albergue de Peregrinos "San Francisco de Asís" and move fast to the Parador, where the Camino del Salvador starts.
Because I have limited time, I wanted to combine train day with the first leg to Cabanillas, 17 km in. I left Leon around 14:30 and arrived at the albergue at six. So that worked out well: cutting the Salvador in four-and-a-half days.
Before I left I was a bit worried about the weather, but that turned out good too. Good? Glorious! I couldn't have hoped for better. So now I'm settled in at the albergue in Cabanillas, which I have to myself, preparing for an early night. No bars here, and I can't be bothered to walk 2 km for a drink. (And 2 km back)
I'm aiming for Poladura tomorrow, 34 km from here. Start early and keep moving. It might be too soon to say, but after leaving Carbajal I'm very happy with the Salvador. Hoping for more tomorrow.
Hi purky
A bit behind time I know!
But looking at these great photos are making my feet itch
We are off in under 2 weeks now to walk the Salvidor
Will give ourselves 7 days though
Many thanks
Annette
Hi Purky,
Great info, but wondering how difficult the terrain really is? I am in great physical health but a little
cautious as I fractured my femur 2 yrs. ago walking the CP coastal. I am planning my 3rd camino next month
and thought I would walk Burgos to Leon and then head over to the CP again, but looking at your post, my mind is going back and forth! Ugh, the decisions, but how lucky I am to be able to walk another camino, God is Good! Bom caminho
The thing that is most strenuous on the Salvador is the climbing and descending. Technically it isn't difficult. I'm no doctor, so can't advise professionally on a formerly fractured femur, but I don't think it should hold you back from walking the Salvador. Especially if you bring trekking poles. Consult with your doctor?
How is the weather in Sept/October?
It is very doable if you take your time and cut the up and down days short. Take 8 days to do it.Hi Purky,
Great info, but wondering how difficult the terrain really is? I am in great physical health but a little
cautious as I fractured my femur 2 yrs. ago walking the CP coastal. I am planning my 3rd camino next month
and thought I would walk Burgos to Leon and then head over to the CP again, but looking at your post, my mind is going back and forth! Ugh, the decisions, but how lucky I am to be able to walk another camino, God is Good! Bom caminho
Hi Liana. I walked the Salvador a couple of weeks after Purky with two other Canadian peregrinas. Two of us are in our mid- fifties and one turned 60 ennroute. We took nine days to walk the Salvador and thoroughly enjoyed it. It is a truly glorious experience being in those mountains. There are some very steep climbs and descents but if you take your time and spread it out over a longer time it might be doable. Also in the highest parts there are what Ender and Laurie’s guide refers to as “false flats” which give you a bit of a break between the steep ups and downs. I had a twingy knee for a couple of weeks afterwards— no lasting problems though. One thing you should do if you do walk it is call ahead to the albergues to be sure they are open and expecting you. Also call ahead to the posada at Poladura de la Tercia to get a meal for the evening. Nowhere else to get food and they need advanced notice to buy supplies with which to feed you. I highly recommend getting Ender’s guide. Laurie (@peregrina2000) translated it into English and it is very helpful.Hi Purky,
Great info, but wondering how difficult the terrain really is? I am in great physical health but a little
cautious as I fractured my femur 2 yrs. ago walking the CP coastal. I am planning my 3rd camino next month
and thought I would walk Burgos to Leon and then head over to the CP again, but looking at your post, my mind is going back and forth! Ugh, the decisions, but how lucky I am to be able to walk another camino, God is Good! Bom caminho
How was the Del Norte in March-April? Was there enough accommodations open and places to eat? How were the trail conditions?Thanks for taking time to post Purky. Buen camino and please continue to post. I finished El Norte 6 weeks ago and already know I want to do the Salvador-Primitivo next spring.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?