Erik Anderson
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- GR11 Hondarribia - Cabo de Creus
3 X CF SJPP to Finisterre
Camino Mozarabe, VP and Sanabres
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Terrific reading please post more info, supporting you and MacmillanI intended to post each day on this Camino but have found the days long and problematic with wifi. I'm sitting watching heavy snow, having arrived in Huéneja after a journey in beautiful sunshine. The views on the Camino are outstanding almost everywhere at this time of year and there are fresh blooms and blossom wherever I look. The arrival was beset by some transport delay, so, only getting to Almeria Cathedral after lunch, I decided to head for the Albergue Municipal at Rioja for the evening. It was excellent and I was met by two charming Amigos with whom I exchanged numbers/emails. They are tracking my movements daily to provide Camino following of a sort. Signage has been excellent and even travelling through Huercal was enjoyable in warm sun; I have no aversion to tarmac. Some of the past days have been in riverbeds, some of which are quite taxing in the sections where there are larger rocks, and the section along the river to Nacimiento was a tunnel of overgrown bamboo which seems to have taken over. Some signage may be confusing, as in Pechina where there are Camino Mozárabe signs pointing left and straight ahead at the entrance to the village. Straight ahead worked fine. There is a similar confusion in Santa Fe where signs took me around the village. I'd just keep heading upwards to pass on the road beneath the two bridges towards Alhabia where the signs again make sense. Rioja to Alboloduy was a sweaty walk with some steep inclines but the latter part was mostly along the river valley where the trees, crops and wild flowers produced amazing scents. At Gador the whole valley was filled with orange blossom. The casa rural at Alboloduy was excellent, complete with free washing machine, and the hostalero could not have been more helpful. The journey to Abla was long and my GPS measured 29.5km to the albergue at the top of the last hill. Again, the river valley could be taxing and the icing on the cake was a delivery of snow and cold winds as I arrived. As for this being an empty trail; it's positively crowded at the moment. I shared a walk with a Dutchman in the afternoon of day two and met two further peregrinos at the Municipal in Abla. The Camino is proving every bit as beautiful as expected and the weather/visibility has been outstanding. One surprise has been the rapid change back to winter and snow over the past day; it was freezing this morning, requiring gloves and muff to keep warm. I must mention the climb out of Alboloduy. A local advised that taking the road was a kinder option with better views, but I did the river valley and climb of the official route. It was steep at times and narrow in places but I took my time, proceeded carefully and it was a good experience that I'm pleased to have done. As Kevin O'Brien said in his excellent guide, stay on the route (which is well marked) and avoid any temptation to climb the scree slopes (as someone had done before me, as evidenced by boot prints in the shale). The municipal albergues have been great to date, my one observation is that they have little or no heating. Here in Huéneja, the inside temperature is the same as outside which is currently 6C; however the shower is hot! There have been no real issues of any importance and this is certainly a great time of year to see Andalucia's back yard, the Alpujarras, and the snow-covered Sierra Nevada. I shall post more in a few days.
Well, there will be at least another pilgrim starting that same day from Granada, a man from Galicia. Please beware you might have to stay one night in Granada, it will be deep Easter, so accommodation might not be cheap or easy to find at all, beware of that!We (four Australian women) will be starting from Granada on 15th April. Looking forward to further posts. Buen Camino.
Well, there will be at least another pilgrim starting that same day from Granada, a man from Galicia. Please beware you might have to stay one night in Granada, it will be deep Easter, so accommodation might not be cheap or easy to find at all, beware of that!
Buen camino!
Thanks, Amancio, I may just take you up on that.
Fabulous picture so atmospheric
Hi Erik, on the corner in the upper part of Magacela, about 10 meters before the supermarket, there was a cafe at your left side. However, it was a stage with plenty of cafes in La Haba and Don Benito.In the upper village, there is caja, a supermarket and a tabac but I found no cafe.
What an amazing sky!View attachment 33277 View attachment 33278
Erik's pics from dawn at Canaveral, now south of Salamanca, middle of ?,
Thank you very much indeed Erik for all your invaluable information. Will read closely in a few days... Have just returned from walking from Sevilla to Salamanca. Will be returning in October to walk from Almeria to Merida then bus to Salamanca to carry onto Muxia - time permitting.Above is the oldest known carving of the Apostle Santiago from the church at Santa Marta de Tera, which is near the beginning of Camino Sanabrés (and also it's official symbol). Depicting the roles of both envoy and pilgrim, the statue represents well the importance of Santiago.
Erik, I'm going to be setting out on the Mozarabe in May this year and have just read your postings from last year. They are wonderful and inspiring. I've picked up what I know are going to be great tips from them. Thank you so much. I'll endeavour to do my own little bit for the forum when the time comes because it is invaluable!Above is the oldest known carving of the Apostle Santiago from the church at Santa Marta de Tera, which is near the beginning of Camino Sanabrés (and also it's official symbol). Depicting the roles of both envoy and pilgrim, the statue represents well the importance of Santiago.
Wow a lot of great infirnstion. Thank youI intended to post each day on this Camino but have found the days long and problematic with wifi. I'm sitting watching heavy snow, having arrived in Huéneja after a journey in beautiful sunshine. The views on the Camino are outstanding almost everywhere at this time of year and there are fresh blooms and blossom wherever I look. The arrival was beset by some transport delay, so, only getting to Almeria Cathedral after lunch, I decided to head for the Albergue Municipal at Rioja for the evening. It was excellent and I was met by two charming Amigos with whom I exchanged numbers/emails. They are tracking my movements daily to provide Camino following of a sort. Signage has been excellent and even travelling through Huercal was enjoyable in warm sun; I have no aversion to tarmac. Some of the past days have been in riverbeds, some of which are quite taxing in the sections where there are larger rocks, and the section along the river to Nacimiento was a tunnel of overgrown bamboo which seems to have taken over. Some signage may be confusing, as in Pechina where there are Camino Mozárabe signs pointing left and straight ahead at the entrance to the village. Straight ahead worked fine. There is a similar confusion in Santa Fe where signs took me around the village. I'd just keep heading upwards to pass on the road beneath the two bridges towards Alhabia where the signs again make sense. Rioja to Alboloduy was a sweaty walk with some steep inclines but the latter part was mostly along the river valley where the trees, crops and wild flowers produced amazing scents. At Gador the whole valley was filled with orange blossom. The casa rural at Alboloduy was excellent, complete with free washing machine, and the hostalero could not have been more helpful. The journey to Abla was long and my GPS measured 29.5km to the albergue at the top of the last hill. Again, the river valley could be taxing and the icing on the cake was a delivery of snow and cold winds as I arrived. As for this being an empty trail; it's positively crowded at the moment. I shared a walk with a Dutchman in the afternoon of day two and met two further peregrinos at the Municipal in Abla. The Camino is proving every bit as beautiful as expected and the weather/visibility has been outstanding. One surprise has been the rapid change back to winter and snow over the past day; it was freezing this morning, requiring gloves and muff to keep warm. I must mention the climb out of Alboloduy. A local advised that taking the road was a kinder option with better views, but I did the river valley and climb of the official route. It was steep at times and narrow in places but I took my time, proceeded carefully and it was a good experience that I'm pleased to have done. As Kevin O'Brien said in his excellent guide, stay on the route (which is well marked) and avoid any temptation to climb the scree slopes (as someone had done before me, as evidenced by boot prints in the shale). The municipal albergues have been great to date, my one observation is that they have little or no heating. Here in Huéneja, the inside temperature is the same as outside which is currently 6C; however the shower is hot! There have been no real issues of any importance and this is certainly a great time of year to see Andalucia's back yard, the Alpujarras, and the snow-covered Sierra Nevada. I shall post more in a few days.
Wow a lot of great infirnstion. Thank you
planning a Mozarabe in Sept 2021
Are you concerned about the high heat levels in June onward? I amI was thinking of leaving from Almeria in June but after contacting the Amigos group and hearing that all but one of the municipals are closed, I've decided to wait. There are pilgrims that have started over the past two weeks (I follow the associations page on Facebook), one or two every few days. They are staying in private accommodations (a list is provided by the association and is updated monthly). All the members are very friendly and helpful. I saw that they are renewing/checking the signage at the moment.
I walked from Granada to Merida mid September 2014 and enjoyed walking at that time of year.
Ultreia!
I think that June would be doable, at least for me, but I've walked the Vía de la Plata from Sevilla and the Levante from Valencia in JulyAre you concerned about the high heat levels in June onward? I am
Choosing Sept onward because it’s cooler. My Western Canadian body is not acclimatized to heat ...still dusting snow off my boots.
Haha or nuts!Oh my God! This is so impressive ! I travelled by train from Madrid to Valencia and I remember seeing pilgrims walking in the arid plains along the railway track. You are a tough and courageous person.
One year is different from the next, but I think September generally is a good time to walk this route. Things are not as beautiful as the spring, when you may see almond blossoms and lush landscapes, but it might be the second best time to go.Are you concerned about the high heat levels in June onward? I am
Choosing Sept onward because it’s cooler. My Western Canadian body is not acclimatized to heat ...still dusting snow off my boots.
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