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Hi, I've just returned from walking the Porto - Santiago section, and I must say I found it very disappointing.
I took the metro from Porto to Vila do Conde to start - VERY busy roads, with no markings/arrows at all until Arcos, where the central route joined.
This was my 11th camino walk, and by far the worst.
The bits on VDLP along roads will quickly be forgotten when you walk through the dehesa. But there are also parts through vineyards where there is nothing to look at, nor anywhere to hide from the sun, but the terrain is excellent for walking: hard /compact, FLAT soil. Very few tractor tracks or loose stones.I'm having similar concerns about my upcoming VDLP.
My husband and I walked from Santarem to Santiago last June/July and found the whole experience wonderful. Very tough, long days at times. This is the only camino we have walked. I suppose everyone has a different view of what they want our of their experience. We chose the Portuguese route as we did not want to walk with many others. Every day was quiet and beautiful at times, and at other times not great. From what I have read one cannot avoid busy roads and the occasional highway but we never felt unsafe. The only unsafe thing were the low road signs which my husband walked into twice. He is 6 four 4 inches and when walking along narrow roads one has to keep ones head focused on the road below ones feet. We always spent time with other Pilgrims along the way. We wrote a blog which you may find interesting and I took many beautiful photographs. Ourwayportuguesecaminho.wordpress.com. I would suggest walking from Porto after spending a day or two there and also we took a break in Ponte de Lima. Sad to miss out on Coimbra which is a wonderful town. Oldest university in Europe. Remember, everyone has there own views and preferences. If you want to be with people all the time, then I do not think the Portuguese route is the way for you. Kind regards, ShushyI plan to walk the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago then hopefully onto Finesterre at the end of August. I'm committed with flights from Paris and accommodation in Lisbon but I am willing to forego the cost and redo the Camino de Santiago walk from Le Puy to SJDP because I have been reading some posts on Facebook that there is a lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland. I would appreciate any advice from pilgrims with experience walking this route.
please do keep in mind that some folks simply don't 'get it right' and miss the path (yellow arrows) and then indeed end up alongside busy roadways. has happened to many (most?) of us.I plan to walk the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago then hopefully onto Finesterre at the end of August. I'm committed with flights from Paris and accommodation in Lisbon but I am willing to forego the cost and redo the Camino de Santiago walk from Le Puy to SJDP because I have been reading some posts on Facebook that there is a lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland. I would appreciate any advice from pilgrims with experience walking this route.
I thank you so much! That's what I'd suspected after reading many accounts of it that even from here seemed to be minimizing.Hi, I've just returned from walking the Porto - Santiago section, and I must say I found it very disappointing.
I took the metro from Porto to Vila do Conde to start - VERY busy roads, with no markings/arrows at all until Arcos, where the central route joined.
Long stretches of narrow, busy roads, with no pavement - it was really quite scary in places.
OK, it wasn't all bad, but there was a lot of tarmac, with much more traffic than, for instance, the Ingles, and certainly the Frances.
This was my 11th camino walk, and by far the worst.
FWIW, I'd say, "Go for the Frances, every time"
I have posted in the past about my Camino from Oporto,it was mainly to say how much I hated the miles of cobblestones that played havoc with my feet,also my nervousness at so much road walking on busy roads,but above all,the wonderful ,helpful Portuguese people that made the 'negatives' fade into the background.From the incredible city of Oporto,to the remoter areas of the countryside I met the same kindness,helpfulness and encouragement that will stay in my memory forever.I plan to walk the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago then hopefully onto Finesterre at the end of August. I'm committed with flights from Paris and accommodation in Lisbon but I am willing to forego the cost and redo the Camino de Santiago walk from Le Puy to SJDP because I have been reading some posts on Facebook that there is a lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland. I would appreciate any advice from pilgrims with experience walking this route.
please do keep in mind that some folks simply don't 'get it right' and miss the path (yellow arrows) and then indeed end up alongside busy roadways. has happened to many (most?) of us.
but that does not mean it's entirely this way. or the intended caminho.
yes, there is some alongside roadways - but to depict it as "lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland." is not only misleading, but distortive.
but who knows - everyones perception is different. i learned long ago not to 'argue' perceptions.
i walked alone from Lisboa to SdC - and found the camino to be a treasure , and the landscape enchanting. and the people to be treasures as well.
yes, there are flat parts around the tejo-valley ... but that's what many river plains do look like.
Bom Caminho -
I plan to walk the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago then hopefully onto Finesterre at the end of August. I'm committed with flights from Paris and accommodation in Lisbon but I am willing to forego the cost and redo the Camino de Santiago walk from Le Puy to SJDP because I have been reading some posts on Facebook that there is a lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland. I would appreciate any advice from pilgrims with experience walking this route.
Nothing scenic on the central Portuguese from Porto to Santiago other than the few km along the Ruta de piedra & agua on the Variante espiritual. It doesn't hold a candle to the Norte.am considering walking the Portugues from Porto to Santiago, but it seems that there are many mixed reviews. Anyone know how this route compares to the Camino Norte?
Which is more scenic, has less roads, and has interesting towns?
I too am considering walking the Portugues from Porto to Santiago, but it seems that there are many mixed reviews. Anyone know how this route compares to the Camino Norte? I have walked that in the past and enjoyed it very much. Also, it seems difficult to tell whether the coastal route or the inland route is the better option. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Which is more scenic, has less roads, and has interesting towns?
But visiting these towns will take an hour or so, Pontevedra 90 minutes, or the equivalent of half a day's walk. Getting to them is pretty blah, and the Caminos are about the route, the walking.Barcelos and Ponte de Lima in Portugal are more than worthwile to stroll around. The same goes for Pontevedra in Spain.
The walk from Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes is gorgeous!!
But visiting these towns will take an hour or so, Pontevedra 90 minutes, or the equivalent of half a day's walk. Getting to them is pretty blah, and the Caminos are about the route, the walking.
My husband and I walked from Santarem to Santiago last June/July and found the whole experience wonderful. Very tough, long days at times. This is the only camino we have walked. I suppose everyone has a different view of what they want our of their experience. We chose the Portuguese route as we did not want to walk with many others. Every day was quiet and beautiful at times, and at other times not great. From what I have read one cannot avoid busy roads and the occasional highway but we never felt unsafe. The only unsafe thing were the low road signs which my husband walked into twice. He is 6 four 4 inches and when walking along narrow roads one has to keep ones head focused on the road below ones feet. We always spent time with other Pilgrims along the way. We wrote a blog which you may find interesting and I took many beautiful photographs. Ourwayportuguesecaminho.wordpress.com. I would suggest walking from Porto after spending a day or two there and also we took a break in Ponte de Lima. Sad to miss out on Coimbra which is a wonderful town. Oldest university in Europe. Remember, everyone has there own views and preferences. If you want to be with people all the time, then I do not think the Portuguese route is the way for you. Kind regards, Shushy
This is a debate without resolution, but I think it's good for people to give opinions. In the end it's up to you. Some people love the Caminho from Lisbon, some don'tThank You for this. I'm leaving May 9th, from Lisbon. Reading some of these comments have put the Fear into me, But I've walked from StJPdP two years ago, walked the entire 800 Km. I will remain optimistic and open minded on the Portuguese Route, some people just might expect too much. I will report back!
This is a debate without resolution, but I think it's good for people to give opinions. In the end it's up to you. Some people love the Caminho from Lisbon, some don't
(try maggie's blog for one of those who loved it.
https://magwood.me/my-caminos/camino-portuguese/)
You can see Kimmo's live comments sprinkled through these threads, and I think it's a fair evaluation to say he and his wife are loving it, so it is definitely an individualized opinion with a lot of variation.
In part, I think the opinion has to do with the expectations, the weather you got, the people you met (or didn't meet), your body's conditions, etc. There is no denying that there is a lot of asphalt on this route, but there is also a lot of asphalt on the Camino del Norte and increasingly more and more on the Frances itself.
I was in Conimbriga at the Roman ruins a few weeks ago and I met two pilgrims. One was a Danish guy and the other was a Brazilian. The Dane was loving it, the Brazilian wasn't. They both started in Lisbon, had essentially been staying in the same places, and had experienced the same weather. One said there was a lot of asphalt, the other said it wasn't a problem. One thought the towns were interesting, the other didn't, on and on (though I will inject a judgment here, I don't know how anyone can think that the Convento do Cristo in Tomar is "not interesting.")
When I walked from Lisbon in 2008, it was hard to extract that "camino feeling," in part because there were no pilgrims and no albergues. Both of those facts have changed dramatically now. I would highly recommend the albergue in Alpriate for your first night's stay. 20 km from the Cathedral in Lisbon, it is an albergue run by the Via Lusitana (the Lisbon Amigos group). Good place to meet those who will be in your "pilgrim cohort" and to get up to date information from the hospitalero/a.
In opinions as in all else -- vive la difference! Bom caminho, Laurie
WayWalker, did you have any trouble with the markers on the Coastal? And you're talking about the Coastal and not the Littoral, right? I also like wild coastlines, but had heard that the Coastal was inland for long stretches so that the coast really wasn't visible. I have a guide book for it, but it really helps to hear the first-hand accounts like yours, so thanks!!My husband and I walked from Lisbon in September of 2016. Lisbon to Porto is tough with long stages and yes there is a lot of road walking. Tough road walking....and cobblestones. Roads with no shoulder and cars going VERY fast. They are trying to mitigate this on the route and so it keeps changing here and there. There are towns in this section that I feel sorry for anyone to never see in their lifetime!!! I will say that the coastal route from Porto on is FANTASTIC. No better scenery to be had if you like wild coastlines. Great coastal towns with ancient monasteries. Oia comes to mind. It is very different from the Frances, less populated with pilgrims but as many say, the people are amazing, the food is wonderful. I wouldn't have missed this one for anything. If I go back I'd love to go Porto to Santiago. From Ponte Vedra the Variante Espiritual is not to be missed. This was so unlike anything I saw on the Frances. My blog if your interested is http://jcadventures83.blogspot.com/ Bom Caminho~
I loved Portugal and Spain. But apart from the walking (we walked from Porto in May 2016), the towns of Lisbon, Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Porto to name but a few are spectacular. The quiet after the Francais (September 2014) was noticeable. The people were friendly, generous and helpful. Every day was an adventure for my wife and I.I plan to walk the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago then hopefully onto Finesterre at the end of August. I'm committed with flights from Paris and accommodation in Lisbon but I am willing to forego the cost and redo the Camino de Santiago walk from Le Puy to SJDP because I have been reading some posts on Facebook that there is a lot of walking beside roads and highways as well as industrial areas and the scenery is quite bland. I would appreciate any advice from pilgrims with experience walking this route.
Also if you would like to read my story of the Camino in Portugal, you can find it listed in www.johnandlindatravels.comI loved Portugal and Spain. But apart from the walking (we walked from Porto in May 2016), the towns of Lisbon, Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Porto to name but a few are spectacular. The quiet after the Francais (September 2014) was noticeable. The people were friendly, generous and helpful. Every day was an adventure for my wife and I.
I'm not really sure about the "names" for each camino, but our itinerary after the Lisbon portion went, Porto-Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Ancora, A Guarda, Oia, Baonia, Vigo, Redondela, Pontevedra, (Variante Espiritual - 4 days) Padron to Santiago. We didn't find the waymarkers hard to locate. Compared to the Frances you had to keep your eye out, so in that sense yes. We bushwhacked off the camino one day into Vigo trying to follow the coastline and it was a mistake.WayWalker, did you have any trouble with the markers on the Coastal? And you're talking about the Coastal and not the Littoral, right? I also like wild coastlines, but had heard that the Coastal was inland for long stretches so that the coast really wasn't visible. I have a guide book for it, but it really helps to hear the first-hand accounts like yours, so thanks!!
Thanks so much! That helps!I'm not really sure about the "names" for each camino, but our itinerary after the Lisbon portion went, Porto-Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Ancora, A Guarda, Oia, Baonia, Vigo, Redondela, Pontevedra, (Variante Espiritual - 4 days) Padron to Santiago. We didn't find the waymarkers hard to locate. Compared to the Frances you had to keep your eye out, so in that sense yes. We bushwhacked off the camino one day into Vigo trying to follow the coastline and it was a mistake.
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