alaskadiver
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- May 2017-Camino Primitivo
April 2019-Camino de Invierno
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Thanks Stacey, looking forward to reading your adventures.
Davie
Many stretches in the first 3 days with zero shade. When you come across any woods, that's the best place to peeAlaskans:0))). You saved me from forgetting to pack sunscreen earlier. Hope you've found someplace pleasant to cool off and rest. Enjoying your blog on the train, Irene!
Yes, that's Juanma's albergues. We have a private room reserved with him.I forgot to add something. One day out of Lugo there is private Albergue Ponte Ferreira. It is temporarily closed until June 1 or so. But there is an alternate albergue A Nave about 800 m BEFORE Ponte Ferreira.
My name is Irene
Thanks for the heads up about not passing up woods:0)). 3L water is heavy to carry, but better than the alternative. Will catch you on the other side of the pond.Many stretches in the first 3 days with zero shade. When you come across any woods, that's the best place to peeEverywhere else is towns farmland that is exposed.
Just putting that out there. Bars are very far apart and so are the water fountains. We easily gone through 3 liters within 20 km. But we are not used to this heat and humidity.
Ouch. You've done so much of it under such difficult circumstances that I hope you can rest now, Irene. Thank you for posting about the boots instead of hiking shoes. You've likely got your hands full and still have limited WiFi here and there, and it sounds obvious that trail runners would be an even worse idea. I might have to revise plans. Mine have Vibram soles with good lugs, but it sounds like that might not be enough. Will hope you're doing OK out there and that the plantar fasciitis abates enough to manage alright ongoing. You probably know what to do for it, having hiked so much.I've had next to wifi since I last posted. I will update my blog but for now just a few notes.
I'm in Granda de Salime now. Horrible case of plantar fasciitis that I didn't know I had prior to this trip. Excruciating pain as soon as hit 20km and then really bad when I take my shoes off in the evening.
Went over the Hospitales yesterday. Drizzling, winding, overcast and cold enough for this Alaskan to put on that lightweight synthetic puffy under my rain jacket.
We were enjoying the pouring rain from a couple days ago by today the temps skyrocketed again. 70's and no rain. Tough day. Ran out of water right as we got to the restaurant at the Dam. 3 liters is our requirement and I stress again the lack of fountains and services along this route. Especially on Sunday and Mondays. If you are not used to hiking in heat, you must carry 3 liters or you will dehydrate fast.
This Camino is not a walk. It's hiking. A lot of hard surfaces and steep ascents and descents.
The worst advice I got was to wear hiking shoes instead of light weight boots. I should have known better given my experience, so I have nobody to blame except myself.
All the Spaniard and Germans are wearing boots. As is my husband and he has zero issues. I gave no blisters but the plantar fasciitis may cause me to skip ahead to Lugo and take a rest day.
I've never had plantar fascitis! But I do know how to treat it. No blisters and I credit my darn tough socks. Hubby is wearing the Merrell Phaserbound mid waterproof boots and they are perfect for him. No blisters and no pain. Take into account that he's a 53 year old over weight male. If I'd listened to him and taken my mid weight hikers I probably wouldn't have this problem. There is a lot of road walking and a lot of gravel and rocky roads. The easiest terrain was the Hospitales because it was natural mountain terrain.Ouch. You've done so much of it under such difficult circumstances that I hope you can rest now, Irene. Thank you for posting about the boots instead of hiking shoes. You've likely got your hands full and still have limited WiFi here and there, and it sounds obvious that trail runners would be an even worse idea. I might have to revise plans. Mine have Vibram soles with good lugs, but it sounds like that might not be enough. Will hope you're doing OK out there and that the plantar fasciitis abates enough to manage alright ongoing. You probably know what to do for it, having hiked so much.
That's all fantastic information to have, Irene!! I have the orthotics and the wide version of Merrell Siren Sport 2's, and have found good ways of caring for foot problems if they're at a manageable level at all. Have Thorlo socks and Injinjis, and have some long gaiters maybe I can take, since am taking only a Frogg Toggs poncho this time. We sometimes used Ketolorac/Toradol post-op in ortho/neurosurgery (nursing), and people didn't seem to have too many GI problems related to it, but be careful with alcohol when taking either one of those two meds (Ketolorac or Valium). Your doctor is an angel for giving you a little of the latter for muscle relaxing and hopefully you'll get good rest with it.I've never had plantar fascitis! But I do know how to treat it. No blisters and I credit my darn tough socks. Hubby is wearing the Merrell Phaserbound mid waterproof boots and they are perfect for him. No blisters and no pain. Take into account that he's a 53 year old over weight male. If I'd listened to him and taken my mid weight hikers I probably wouldn't have this problem. There is a lot of road walking and a lot of gravel and rocky roads. The easiest terrain was the Hospitales because it was natural mountain terrain.
I would definitely consider a light weight hiking boot instead of hiking shoes if you suffer from any history of Achilles' tendon problems (I had my left on injured a few years back and it's acting up) or even mild heal pain or plantar fasciitis. Good orthotics for your personal issues and Darn Tough socks. Wide width shoes and for sure size up. I got that part right.
The problem on the Primitivo is the hard surfaces you are walking through. It's tough on feet. Unlike what I'm used to in Alaska which is all wilderness and no real trails. Hard ball surfaces cause plantar fasciitis. I'm very glad I had waterproof shoes though. With my short nylon gators my feet stayed completely dry in downpours and deep mud. No waterproof shoes would have had me in soaking wet feet for hours. Probably caused a blister.
I don't recommend my Merrill MOABs for this trail. Too light weight. I should have worn my Vasque St Elias (wide size even though I have normal width feet. They swell like I broke something when hiking in heat). The Merrill's are very comfy but definitely a long day hike with no load kind of shoe.
Another thing to consider. Despite saying that I was packing my Teva Olowahu flips, at the last minute I packed the Teva terra lite sandals. Normally a good camp shoe but anything with a heel strap is a bad idea when you have Achilles problems. The mildest cinching causes pain. Alternative? I'd bring a super light weigh cushiony shoe like this cheaply made sketchers. Give up weight elsewhere. Feet are the most important thing.
I'm skipping 2 stages. We took the bus to Lugo (along with 5 other pilgrims with same foot issues) this morning and I am resting in the hotel (Mendez Nuñez) with my feet elevated, iced, and prescription strength dosages of ketoprophen. Which is sold over the counter here so I was able to easily obtain a few boxes. It's a Cox2 NSAID but seems to work better for me than Naproxen (Aleve). We are waiting for friend Steve (Stfina) to arrive tomorrow. We start walking again on Wednesday.
I'm also lightening my pack by about a 1 1/2 pounds. Sending Ivan my puffy jacket (only needed it over the Hospitales route and that night before in Campiello); my phone backup charger (finding the new iPhone 7 Plus doesn't run out of battery life especially without a data connection); my long sleeve hiking shirt; my silk long johns that were never used; and ditching the blister packs of allergy meds we ended up not needing. Also ditching 1 pair of my exofficio bra since I only need one pair to walk. And one pair of socks. I only intended to bring 3 pr and I extra made its way in there. Don't need more than 3. Will probably throw away one of our pieces of Dr Bronners since we only have 4 days left and this'd suckers last forever.
Still carrying 3 liters of water at least until we reach Melide since there are still not enough waster sources between here and there. Temps later this week will be hitting mid 80's so I'll need all that water. After that I'll decrease it to 1.5.
I think that should help my feet. I may also ditch my rain skirt. I walked in pouring rain with just my purple rain skirt and t-shirt in high 50's and was extremely comfortable. Obviously not ditching the large quantities of pain killersluckily I also brought a few muscle relaxants that have helped tremendously at night. Thanks to my 80 year old doctor who gave me Valium (original use was as a muscle relaxant) because she KNEW I'd have spasm in my legs during this kind of hike (other patients had told her stories so she made sure I was prepared). I have just enough for each night left.
I hope this is helpful information. Some things to think about any way.
Oh! Every albergue in the Primitivo has thick good blankets for those of you who get cold. No shortages.
I may even ditch my sleeping bag at this point. Pensiones all have linen. I probably won't, though.
Fleece is too heavy. I bought lightweight synthetic puffy that is much lighter weight but just as warm. Really needed it over the Hospitales that day. But otherwise just sits in the pack.That's all fantastic information to have, Irene!! I have the orthotics and the wide version of Merrell Siren Sport 2's, and have found good ways of caring for foot problems if they're at a manageable level at all. Have Thorlo socks and Injinjis, and have some long gaiters maybe I can take, since am taking only a Frogg Toggs poncho this time. We sometimes used Ketolorac/Toradol post-op in ortho/neurosurgery (nursing), and people didn't seem to have too many GI problems related to it, but be careful with alcohol when taking either one of those two meds (Ketolorac or Valium). Your doctor is an angel for giving you a little of the latter for muscle relaxing and hopefully you'll get good rest with it.
So maybe I'll ditch the fleece jacket and take more peelable layers and run down to the Outfitter and see what hiking boots they have on hand that could be broken in quickly. Am so glad you have a rest day or two and hope your foot feels better soon with the rest and care. I can't thank you enough for sharing your experience doing the Primitivo, Irene - I feel better prepared for it, and wish you all the best for your last 4 days there. Beth
For what it's worth, all the Spaniards have boots. They aren't complaining of foot problems.Once you get on the Frances it will be much easier and it is said to be easier after Lugo, so your take on that section will be useful.
This is excellent advice. I was wondering what shoes / boots to take and was thinking of Treksta trekking shoes as I have previously used two pairs on two Camino Frances pilgrimages, but it sounds like boots would be better on the Primitivo.
Hope your feet recover after Lugo so you can enjoy the rest of your Camino in less pain.
We arrived in Santiago on Saturday. Very painful walk on hard surfaces but I made it. Had lunch the following day with Johnny Walker Santiago and SYates plus the Irish pilgrims that came by boat last year. Yesterday we helped them get their boat on a trailer and sent them off to A Coruña.
We are now in a fantastic apt in isla de Arousa on the coast of Galicia resting and planning a kayak trip around the island. I WIll update my blog. Just been too tired the last few days.
The walk from Santa Irene was easy terrain but a lot of turigrinos that was a shock to my system after 2 weeks with hard core walkers
Buen Camino to those heading out soon. Weather is very hot in Asturias and Galicia. I was glad that I forwarded my light puffy jacket, long sleeved hiking shirt, and rain skirt after going over the Hospitales. I should have sent my sleeping bag too. Didn't need it. The private albergues and pensiones we stayed in had real linen and blankets. Plus it was just hot. We slept with windows open all night in every albergue. It's hotter than usual is what I keep getting told.
It was a crazy lunch! Loved it.Congrats and a well deserved rest now!
Aha the famous lunch with the lovely people.
I walked away sober and so did my husband. We consider that a badge of honor with that crowdHa a real survivor
Many Camino royalty at that lunch . San Clemente restaurant. The guys aren't going back to Ireland. They are rowing south to Morrocco. Wonderful people.Wow, you had lunch with several Camino royalty then, Irene:0)! Where was lunch? I'd watched a video about those Irish pilgrims and seem to remember that Glen Hansard was among them one year. Your foot probably still hurts, but it could probably be worse - you could be rowing back to Ireland!
Glad you're someplace comfortable and have fun kayaking. Enjoying all of your posts!
Sigh. Another fantastic Santiago restaurant that requires a visit. What a menu! Thanks for posting it, Sabine.
Sigh. Another fantastic Santiago restaurant that requires a visit. What a menu! Thanks for posting it, Sabine.
Santiago is such a welcoming place, I can't imagine even better staff, but that's a lovely endorsement, Sabine. Is it possible to have lunch in informal clothes such as a plain skirt and hiking shirt?I had the great pleasure to be invited here twice. Not only a stunning menu but the best staff I have ever encountered.
Santiago is such a welcoming place, I can't imagine even better staff, but that's a lovely endorsement, Sabine. Is it possible to have lunch in informal clothes such as a plain skirt and hiking shirt?
No problem. The restaurant isn't fancy. It's just really good. We still hadn't picked up our travel clothes from Ivar so we were in hiking pants, tshirt and sandals. They don't care.Abolutely. I had my walking pants, my most classy Merino shirtand a colourful scarf. No seriously, they do not seem to mind.
Sorry @alaskadiver : I'm hijacking your thread...tend to get carried away when it comes to food and restaurants.
High temp today was over 85F/31c
Seems that this is hot year. No snow in this winter and very high heat for months now, according to all the locals that I've spoken to.
The temps were horrible. Especially with the lack of water sources. If I ever do another Camino it will be in March or April. Winters in Spain are mild for me. This heat is just too much.What a difference a week makes! We were about seven days in front of you and everyone was apologising for the unseasonably cold weather from Irun through Oviedo to Lugo. We had a couple of hot days in the sunny days but enjoyed walking in the more numerous, cloudy, chilly days. Most mornings never got above 10C (50F). When we transited back through Bilbao on the way home, we were shocked by the difference. One pharmacy sign said 35.5C and it was 13C in the "heat" of the afternoon five weeks earlier when we first arrived in Spain.
Not while you're walking it doesn'tLast year on the Primitivo (photo taken in Lugo 19 July):
View attachment 34228
But the municipal pools are open in July, which makes all the difference.
I'm hoping that the unusually hot Spring leads to an unusually cool summer.Not while you're walking it doesn't
My hotel in Lugo had AC. I wouldn't have bothered with a pool personally. I would never hike in the summer in Spain. I'll leave that to you crazy hot weather people.
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