Re: Camping Camino Primitivo
CAMPING ON THE PRIMITIVO - ANGE
First thing we found out when talking to the Tourist Office in Oviedo was the confirmation that it is forbidden to camp ‘wild’ in Spain. However, during the Holy Year on the route the authorities have relaxed the ruling – just present your credencias if questioned. Obviously to allow use of the facilities - next to the albergues is best – ask the hospitalero first of course – bearing in mind some do not arrive until after 5pm to register everyone. In general we only saw people camping on the
Camino Frances, Ribadiso, for example where we used our tents for the first time. In the morning the tent was wringing wet with humidity, despite it being July. There were a lot of people in mummy style sleeping bags only – I wondered if they were OK.
On the Primitivo we managed to obtain accommodation the whole way and the tents nearly got dumped. The hospitaleros would pass information to each other and the more modern albergues had added a lot more beds and a few mattresses for this year. There were also secondary albergues in some places - we ended up in an old school after Ferreira in a district called Augus Santas but nearly missed it. I think it was near the hamlet of Codeseda - you would need to ask someone nearby for information concerning the key - it was already open when we arrived. In Grandas da Salime the albergue lived up to its name ‘slime’, and it only had about 12 beds, so everyone either dispersed into Pensions/hotels (like us) or continued 5 kilometres up to Castro (which has reopened). We got beds in Padron outskirts of O Fonsagrada, but the garden was flat and there were a couple of tents placed overnight. Other albergues with grounds available where we got beds and were too tired to struggle with spanish to ask, were Oviedo - even though in the town it is down a dead end and had a garden round the back, Villepanada near Grado - sloping ground but maybe, Cornellana - big enclosed courtyard - not sure about outside though, Salas - although in a modern district it was next to fields, Tineo - garden too steep, Borres OK but the albergue was full of flies so beds are available if you bring spray!, Pola de Allande in the town, just concrete outside, Padron nice flat field area , Cadavo Baleiro not sure as we stopped in Hotel Moneda - arrived too late for a bed and too tired to think about tents. Lugo has secondary albergues, the one inside the walled city was just the building, no grounds at all.
I think that you have to consider the extra weight unless you take it in turns to carry a tent. If you take the time to visit the tourist offices they will assist you with information on not only the registered albergues, but the temporary ones and costs of cheaper pensions – and even ring up and book for you - which for the odd occasion gives you a bed on your own, easy access to a bathroom without having to rush, and meals with a bar for the odd beer or cafe con leche! To be honest, I would not take one again - carrying a tent with the extra weight, even carried in turns, and the thought of having to put it up and dismantle it – ok you just have to throw it and it pings into place... I got so tired that I could have slept on a park bench! The only reason we did was because we were heading into Santiago for the Jubilee weekend, and worried we may not get anywhere. We ended up at Monte de Gozo for two nights - ok we had to queue - but we had somewhere to sleep.