Help - Primitivo - July

[davejsy]

Hello all,

After a bit of advice/help/info. So my godson (14yr) has decided he wants to come and do a Camino with me which is great. We are restricted on time, so about 2 weeks, so I'm thinking the Primitivo (he's been dragged up numerous mountains in NW Spain before, so should be fine fitness wise), but it has to tie in with school holidays so the earliest is going to be around 20th July. I think going then is better than waiting and going anytime in August.

When I did the CF I didn't book any accommodation, and that was very freeing, and that would be my preferred option. My worry is though, that from reading stuff the Primitivo could be a problem for that? Most people seem to say you need to book ahead during busy times (I'm guessing late July will fall into that)?

So I'm wondering if anyone has walked the Primitivo recently at a similar time that can share their experience of this? I'm also considering delaying our start from Oviedo to say a Monday which will probably help in this regard? I have a friend who lives in Oviedo who we will stay with so we could be flexible.

Gracias

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yep, I I started the Primitivo on the 15th of July last year. I booked my first couple of days, the group I joined on day two booked the third night and after that nothing. I booked night one because I started injured and wanted to be able to arrive late if necessary (which it was !). The only reason nights 2 and 3 were booked is that I really really wanted to stay at Bodenaya ( which had only just reopened with the new owners Allison and Alberto), and Allison booked night three for us with Sylvia because she too had literally just opened. (Another Donativo,Casa Pascal @El Espin - a way of helping her out) At that point Sylvia just had six beds, she now has 10. Had I been walking alone I would not have bothered, El Espin has other excellent accommodation options as well.

Even the four of us that continued on together until Lugo had zero issues. In fact we were frequently six or seven, as we kept meeting others that we also had met at Bodenaya.
We split at Lugo because I took the Camino Verde. If you look I posted on the forum at the time.
Some people rewalk the Frances, at some point I will definitely re-walk the Primitivo, I love it.

Incidentally that last six/seven kilometers from Salas is an absolute killer at the end of a day, but for me it was a hundred percent worth it. I would do it again in a heartbeat to stay once more at Bodenaya.

Edited to add: I found out later it was not necessary to have booked Grado as the Albergue there had plenty of room.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Incidentally I know you haven't asked but in hindsight I would have been better to have started considerably slower and added just one more day. That would have made it Paladin, Cornellana (Monasterio der San Salvador) then Bodenaya.

 

[davejsy]

Really helpful and reassuring thank you @Peterexpatkiwi

I think a couple of shorter days at the beginning could be a great idea, and it would be a great experience for my godson to stay at a monastery. Now it actually looks like we're going I'll start having a look at places we really want to try and stay at.

What day did you start on from Oviedo? And how many days did you do it over? I'm expecting 12-14 days based on what I've read.

Also, the Camino Verde? I'll need to look that up as an option after Lugo

 

[peregrina2000]

I am hoping to walk the Primitivo in 2025 with my grandson, who will then be 13. Other forum members who have walked with young people say that it helps a lot to have other people in their demographic to walk with. I won’t have that luxury, it’ll be me and him. Sounds like that’s what you’ll be doing, too. I’d love to hear how it goes for you.

In my experience, the one real bottleneck on the Primitivo is Berducedo. So I would make a reservation either in Berducedo or La Mesa (4-5 km further on). For your godson to really “get” what it is that makes the camino so different than just a long walk, I think a night in Cornellana in the monastery, a night in Bodenaya, and a night in Samblismo before Hospitales would be icing on the cake. San Juan de Villapanada is another 5-star albergue on the Primitivo, but it’s a long walk from Oviedo and may not be a good way to start.

Hoping you have a great camino.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@davejsy , I followed this excellent advice from @Telelama : https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/posts/1152036/
Ignore any negative comments about boardwalk etc from other members, they walked it prior to everything being fixed, last July it was in excellent condition. I'm sure somebody will have tracks for it - I didn't use any apps, other than a couple of minor misadventures had no issues. Apparently mappy.cz has tracks for it which are very accurate. Zero services during the day. More info on my 'Live on the Primitivo' thread last July, or my YouTube series is currently loading. (Expatkiwi)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@peregrina2000 is right, when we got to Berducedo it was filling fast, but I had no desire to stay there. A couple of my crew had reservations at La Mesa, so after a long one hour break at Berducedo we walked on. I think it was around 19.00 when we walked in, they still had spare beds. And a swimming pool!! Bliss.

You'd do worse than get the Camino Primitivo ' Village to Village map guide ' from Ivar, presuming he still has it in store. I found it excellent and noticed several other people carrying it too.

Yes, if you're both moderately fit and have no issues 12 to 14 days is definitely doable. Had I stayed with the faster members of my crew on the Primitivo itself, we would have done it in 12, perhaps even 11. I took a rest day in Lugo because I wanted to explore the city more. I also took the Norte variant to miss the crowds, and I didn't bother walking in on the afternoon of the 14th day, simply in order to prolong my journey. I really, really didn't want it to finish.

I know that @dbier was on the Primitivo a week or two behind me, it would be good to have her feedback too.

Feel free to PM me if you wish.

 

[davejsy]

I am hoping to walk the Primitivo in 2025 with my grandson, who will then be 13. Other forum members who have walked with young people say that it helps a lot to have other people in their demographic to walk with. I won’t have that luxury, it’ll be me and him. Sounds like that’s what you’ll be doing, too. I’d love to hear how it goes for you.

In my experience, the one real bottleneck on the Primitivo is Berducedo. So I would make a reservation either in Berducedo or La Mesa (4-5 km further on). For your godson to really “get” what it is that makes the camino so different than just a long walk, I think a night in Cornellana in the monastery, a night in Bodenaya, and a night in Samblismo before Hospitales would be icing on the cake. San Juan de Villapanada is another 5-star albergue on the Primitivo, but it’s a long walk from Oviedo and may not be a good way to start.

Hoping you have a great camino.

Thank you Me and my godson spent two weeks last Easter road tripping around northern Spain, just me him and the two dogs.


So while we'd both be fine with just the two of us, I have said he can invite a particular one of his friends who I think will embrace the Camino and fit in, so we will see who ends up coming. I think it is an amazing experience to be able to give them at that age, something that they will remember forever and maybe even shape their own path in life somehow. And of course for us it's a privilege to share the Camino with people close to our hearts and catch a glimpse of what it's like to be young again!

Thank you for the suggestions which sound exactly what I'd like to do with Harry, and I'll look in to them. The only concrete plan I've got so far is that I want to be at the top of Mont Naranco for the sunrise on our first day! I've been up there once before on one of our road trips and it was such a beautiful place, and I've always had this idea in the back of mind ever since of starting a Camino from there. I saw a post a while ago that shows the route from the top of there to rejoin the Camino proper so will be looking that up again.

 

[davejsy]

@davejsy , I followed this excellent advice from @Telelama : https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/posts/1152036/
Ignore any negative comments about boardwalk etc from other members, they walked it prior to everything being fixed, last July it was in excellent condition. I'm sure somebody will have tracks for it - I didn't use any apps, other than a couple of minor misadventures had no issues. Apparently mappy.cz has tracks for it which are very accurate. Zero services during the day. More info on my 'Live on the Primitivo' thread last July, or my YouTube series is currently loading. (Expatkiwi)

So the Verde it seems is similar in length to joining the CF from Lugo, with two stops/days? And rejoins the Verde at Lavacolla? Are there any Albergues on the Verde?

 

[davejsy]

Oh and what were your temps like @Peterexpatkiwi ?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Similar in length and timeframe, yes. Day one from Lugo you end in Friol, accommodation wise I stayed at Casa Bendigo. (No Albergues). Phone or email for the pilgrim rate of 30 euros. Not sure how much they'd want for the three of you. They're strong supporters of this Camino. I'm told they have an excellent restaurant, unfortunately it was St James day, so they were closing early. However there's a really good restaurant no more than 100m away.
Be aware from the time I left Lugo until I got to Friol there were zero services. No bars, no cafes, no toilets, no water fountains - nothing. You're literally walking either through the woods or on country lanes. Very, very quiet - it's beautiful.
Ditto Day 2 (re: services) until about an hour into the Norte. I'm not sure how you'd feel about that doing that with the boys due to lack of other pilgrims.?

At the end of day two you end up in Sobrado on the Norte.
I stayed privately in Sobrado, because after an hour I gave up waiting to get into the monastery. Patience is not one of my virtues!
And then you can either follow the main route in or take the Variant like I did. Be warned the only option along there is the 'Twin Pines' private accommodation. Last year that cost me 35 Euros including dinner and a glass of wine. I could easily have walked in from there but chose not to, as I said above.

Temperature. I dubbed myself the 'King of the mist' on this Camino. I think I had two, perhaps three days on the entire Camino that I didn't have mist for at least part of it. The maximum temperature was 28 degrees. Most days it was 24 to 26. The rest of Spain was sweltering!
I had several mornings where I most definitely needed my puffer jacket! 7 or 8 degrees.
Got a little rain - literally a short shower or two - two days. Until the morning I walked into the center from Monto de guzo on the outskirts of Santiago then of course it absolutely poured down for about an hour. Fortunately it was breakfast time so I was able to get into a cafe!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I am hoping to walk the Primitivo in 2025 with my grandson, who will then be 13. Other forum members who have walked with young people say that it helps a lot to have other people in their demographic to walk with.

I can understand the point because I met a Spanish group along the way, mother and daughter, and two older friends of the mother. The 13-year-old daughter was really struggling with 1/ the very slow pace the other couple were setting, and 2/ nobody else to speak to. Fortunately Dad is Australian ( not with them) so the girl spoke great English. We walked at a more comfortable pace and then just stopped periodically to let everyone else catch up. It had the added bonus that she could then vent her frustrations to a sympathetic ear! Unfortunately I ended up ahead of them the next day so never saw them again.
I also saw a teenage boy with his dad, but that was a very different dynamic.

So long as you find other people that your grandson can talk to, he'll probably be fine. It could be a really valuable life lesson for him.

I also met an 8-year-old boy and his mother ( also Spanish), it was no issue for him so it's clearly the teenage years.

 

[davejsy]

Thank you for the great info @Peterexpatkiwi

I'm not sure how you'd feel about that doing that with the boys due to lack of other pilgrims.?

I don't think that would be a particular issue. My only thought in that regard is would they enjoy the experience of the CF for those extra two days, but I don't think my Godson would as he can be a bit sensitive to too much noise etc, so the quietness of the Verde appeals.

I stayed privately in Sobrado, because after an hour I gave up waiting to get into the monastery.

Was the wait because you got there early?

So overall there would be less road walking on the Verde than if you joined the CF (kind of what I can gather from the other thread)?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Was the wait because you got there early?

So overall there would be less road walking on the Verde than if you joined the CF (kind of what I can gather from the other thread)?

1) nope the wait was because the monastery is not particularly efficient at checking people in shall we say. There were 20 people ahead of me when I arrived and they were letting them in, in groups of six. An hour later there was still 12.

2) not a question I can answer, I have never walked in on the CF!
On the Verde: There was a fair bit of road walking still, however a lot of it was on country lanes, and there was a good mixture of that, and dirt under foot.

The Variant on the Norte was pretty much all Road walking. Not optimal, but very quiet.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Three post's I found particularly useful:

Especially the photo of the first arrow in the last post

Yes, I have an update!!! I walked the Verde route from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes along with just a few other people. It is certainly the way to go if you like being among trees with simple countryside and are craving lots of solitude. Very few people and pretty much no services in between. You really have to get through both days on your own. There is also nowhere else to stop except Friol and Sobrado which forces you into minimum 25km days. But it’s pretty easy walking, especially compared to earlier Primitivo days. And help is findable if you truly need it.

View attachment 147211

View attachment 147209Seems like the person who experienced broken boardwalks last Fall had unfortunate timing because everything has since been repaired - and I did see quite a lot of new boards in place and piles of what was replaced, so I have no doubt it was a pretty hard place to pass through before. It’s right outside Lugo that you’re on boardwalks for a while following a river (which was also my favorite part of the 2 days). Very lovely walking with the river and the trees.

After that it’s primarily forest trails and farm tracks. Some of the tracks are fairly overgrown and many of the farm tracks clearly see way more tractors and cows than pedestrians, but it’s all quite passable (though I think it’d be tough on a rainy day / week). Good days to wear long pants if you have a choice.

The waymarking is nearly 100% helpful and the arrows are actually pretty abundant and intuitive, but there is an occasional spot where the green arrow has been covered by green plants and is easy to miss and once or twice leads you into a fence. Most of the time they are on trees and rocks as there are very few infrastructure elements on which to mark. I recommend having a good map option with you. I used Mapy.cz and it has the Verde route marked pretty well (though occasionally with a slightly different path…I usually followed the arrows rather than my app). It’s also downloadable and I can use it in airplane mode and it will still very accurately track my location on the map.

Another observation was that I was more nervous about dogs as compared to other routes. Some of it was probably negative anticipation / being worried about it beforehand, but I think because they see far fewer pilgrims (or really any other people) day to day, the dogs along this way are more reactive and aggressive. If it hadn't been for closed fences / present owners, I might have had a much worse time.

The last thing I’ll add for those who haven’t yet experienced the last 100km or meeting up with the Frances, I actually rather enjoyed joining all the other pilgrims today when I finally met up with the Frances outside O Pedrouza. Maybe it’s because I’ve had quite a lot of solitude as a solo (slow) walker, but it was surprisingly nice to be around more people all going the same way. I actually decided to embrace the “noise” and listen to music I like in my headphones and felt more motivated to walk than I have the last few days. Prior, I never wanted to “spoil” the silence and/or needed to keep my ears open for traffic while road walking. It was nice to have a little more distraction from tired feet. Just wanted to add that for anyone still not sure which route they want to take - I think the “official” way is what you make of it. Of course I can’t speak to how it feels to be in Melide or Arzua.

But again, if you’re still processing things and are really enjoying solitude still, the Verde route is a lovely option! Plus staying at the monastery in Sobrado was very nice, especially with the collection of well-spirited pilgrims I was glad to share the evening and morning with.

Hi Peter, if you're looking to avoid the crush after joining the Frances at Melide and all the road walking on the Primitivo after Lugo, the Camino Verde is absolutely the way to go. If you add the Norte Variant so that you join the Frances at the airport, it's even better.

Of all the days we've spent walking our four Caminos, the two days of the Verde were the absolute best! It was so beautiful. We walked the Verde on May 29 and 30, so it was still very spring like, especially after the week of rains. The grass was tall, the flowers in full bloom, the trees full of leaves; it was beautiful. There were sections along the second day where the route takes you through old abandoned farm access roads where at times a weed whacker would have been helpful to make our way.

Yes, the elevated walkway has been repaired.

Day 1 to Friol is very well marked with green arrows. We never got lost, but there was an intersection roughly halfway through the day where the arrows pointed both right and left. We ended up going right and it was just fine. There's very little road walking, but where you had to walk along the road, there was very little traffic. The exception is at the end. You walk out of the woods and have roughly two miles of road walking to get to Friol. While we didn't stay here, the food at Casa Benigno in Friol was very good, and the service was excellent.

Leaving Friol on day two was a little confusing since we tried to follow the PDF write up. The write up was, with apologies to the author, far too detailed. For example, it says within the first mile to cross a wooden bridge and "bear right", which gave us the impression that the path divided and we should take the right. There was no divided path. The path simply goes right. A hundred meters further the path comes to a T with no green arrow that we could find. We thought this was where we should bear right, but it didn't make sense for leaving town, so we correctly went left. We only saw two other pilgrims on these two days. They went right at the T and got lost. They got lost several times on day 2, but mostly from not paying attention. The green arrows on the black asphalt can be difficult to see at times, plus some vegetation has grown over some arrows.

Once you merge with the Norte, it's mostly walking along a path beside a very busy road. In a few miles the way takes you away from the busy road and you walk along a suburban road with houses on the left and right until you arrive at Sobrado. We stayed at the very nice Pension Via Sacre. They have one of the best breakfasts that I've seen on Camino, and the café next door does a great pilgrim meal.

The Norte Variant leaves the Norte just past A Gandara and is the right way if you're looking to avoid the Frances. Lots of road walking, but mostly on small secondary roads. I don't think we saw more than four cars pass by us on this section. There's roughly four miles along a road with heavy traffic, but there's a gravel service road alongside that is easy walking, but zero shade. Then you cross a bridge over the A-54 right at the end of the runway and join the Frances.

Do note that there is zero support along the Verde. No cafes. No gas stations. Nothing at all, so you have to bring all the food and water you'll need.

When leaving Lugo, you cross the river Minho and follow Rua Fermin Rivera past the tennis courts, swimming pools on your right. As you get past this recreational area, the Primitivo goes left up a hill and the Camino Verde goes right towards the river.

It follows the river for roughly a mile, then it goes left into the hillside and along a beautiful little creek. The Verde is very beautiful, this way is far better than connecting to the Frances in Melide.

In the image below you can see the green arrow pointing right, just below the Primitivo marker.

 

[davejsy]

Three post's I found particularly useful:

Especially the photo of the first arrow in the last post

Great thank you Peter - I've been searching through the forum trying to find info on the Verde!

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

Hello all,

After a bit of advice/help/info. So my godson (14yr) has decided he wants to come and do a Camino with me which is great. We are restricted on time, so about 2 weeks, so I'm thinking the Primitivo (he's been dragged up numerous mountains in NW Spain before, so should be fine fitness wise), but it has to tie in with school holidays so the earliest is going to be around 20th July. I think going then is better than waiting and going anytime in August.

When I did the CF I didn't book any accommodation, and that was very freeing, and that would be my preferred option. My worry is though, that from reading stuff the Primitivo could be a problem for that? Most people seem to say you need to book ahead during busy times (I'm guessing late July will fall into that)?

So I'm wondering if anyone has walked the Primitivo recently at a similar time that can share their experience of this? I'm also considering delaying our start from Oviedo to say a Monday which will probably help in this regard? I have a friend who lives in Oviedo who we will stay with so we could be flexible.

Gracias

I walked the Primitivo last August/September. I did book because I was reading that various albergues had closed. Turned out not to be the case, and it was pretty empty, except for Hotel las Grandas, everything past that point seemed to have a availability. The next three towns I stayed in I was the lone guest in accommodation. It might be tighter before the dam, some of those places were small. You might consider booking in Lugo and Arca, Lugo because it's a city, Arca/Pedrouza because it gets super busy there. Even when I did book, I did it a day ahead of time, but you can get a feel as you go.

 

[FrJimKingcsc]

Incidentally I know you haven't asked but in hindsight I would have been better to have started considerably slower and added just one more day. That would have made it Paladin, Cornellana (Monasterio der San Salvador) then Bodenaya.

Did this exact itinerary last May and had to book Bodenaya in advance then. Brief shortcut from there to Hospitales cuts down on overall mileage for most glorious but toughest day on the route. I would book Bercuedo too at that time of year. Nice town to collapse in. Unless you’re an iron man it’s not a day to walk farther if you don’t have to.

Paladin and monastery in Cornellana quite different (a little posh vs spartan) but both delightful in their own ways.

 

[davejsy]

I walked the Primitivo last August/September. I did book because I was reading that various albergues had closed. Turned out not to be the case, and it was pretty empty, except for Hotel las Grandas, everything past that point seemed to have a availability. The next three towns I stayed in I was the lone guest in accommodation. It might be tighter before the dam, some of those places were small. You might consider booking in Lugo and Arca, Lugo because it's a city, Arca/Pedrouza because it gets super busy there. Even when I did book, I did it a day ahead of time, but you can get a feel as you go.

Thank you This is good to know, and echos what Peter has relayed. I'd much rather not book in advance unless really neeeded. Not knowing where we will be stopping is part of the adventure, and we want it to be just that.

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

Thank you This is good to know, and echos what Peter has relayed. I'd much rather not book in advance unless really neeeded. Not knowing where we will be stopping is part of the adventure, and we want it to be just that.

And even though Arca/Pedrouza was packed, I somehow walked into Santiago totally alone.

 

[trac1]

It depends on which day you start walking. If on Saturday (from Oviedo), then there may be problems with accommodation.

 

[davejsy]

It depends on which day you start walking. If on Saturday (from Oviedo), then there may be problems with accommodation.

Yes this is my thought, that the majority of people will probably be starting Fri/Sat/Sun and so it will be busier on the waves they move through on etc. I'm thinking of starting on a Monday, or perhaps even Sunday if we plan to do a shorter first day. We would then hopefully be behind the weekend starters for the rest of the trip and it will be less problematic if we don't want to have to book ahead every day.

 

[David Tallan]

It depends on which day you start walking. If on Saturday (from Oviedo), then there may be problems with accommodation.

When I walk the Primitivo again (that's a "when" and not an "if") my main concern for my day of departure is to figure things out so that I don't again arrive in Grandas de Salime on a Monday when the Ethnographic Museum is closed.

 

[peregrina2000]

so that I don't again arrive in Grandas de Salime on a Monday when the Ethnographic Museum is closed.

Or if I arrive on a Sunday, not to assume it is closed and go to eat lunch, only to find out that on Sundays it’s open till 3!

 

[peregrina2000]

And while we’re going through our Primitivo “coulda-shoulda-woulda” list, let me add the hill fort of Chao Samartín. l had always stayed in Grandas de Salime, but last time decided I would forge on another 5 km and get to see the 7C BC hill fort. (There is both an albergue juvenil and a small quirky casa rural there). Wouldn’t you know it, the archaeological site was closed for restoration. The museum was open, and though it’s small, it’s very interesting, with hundreds of objects recovered at the site.

After my museum visit, I walked towards the very obvious hill fort site and ran into an elderly woman sitting on a bench. She told me the property of the hill fort had been her family’s farm, and one day her dad found some ancient artifact (I think she said a spoon) when working in the fields. It sounded to me like the negotiations over the price of expropriation did not leave the farmer family very happy, but she told me she was very proud to have been affiliated with the discovery of this site.

The access now is only by guided visit, but there is one Tues-Sat at 1 and 5:30 p.m.

Now I just have to figure out how to visit both the Ethnolographic Museum and the hill fort on the same camino!

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

And while we’re going through our Primitivo “coulda-shoulda-woulda” list, let me add the hill fort of Chao Samartín. l had always stayed in Grandas de Salime, but last time decided I would forge on another 5 km and get to see the 7C BC hill fort. (There is both an albergue juvenil and a small quirky casa rural there). Wouldn’t you know it, the archaeological site was closed for restoration. The museum was open, and though it’s small, it’s very interesting, with hundreds of objects recovered at the site.

After my museum visit, I walked towards the very obvious hill fort site and ran into an elderly woman sitting on a bench. She told me the property of the hill fort had been her family’s farm, and one day her dad found some ancient artifact (I think she said a spoon) when working in the fields. It sounded to me like the negotiations over the price of expropriation did not leave the farmer family very happy, but she told me she was very proud to have been affiliated with the discovery of this site.

The access now is only by guided visit, but there is one Tues-Sat at 1 and 5:30 p.m.

Now I just have to figure out how to visit both the Ethnolographic Museum and the hill fort on the same camino!

You have to have pretty good Spanish to do the tour. I was the only person visiting the museum the day I went, but the guide only spoke Spanish so didn't get to see the site. The museum was interesting, non-the-less. I did the ethnographic museum in Grandas de Salime and the one in Chao San Martin on the same day. Both were fun to explore.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

When I walk the Primitivo again (that's a "when" and not an "if") my main concern for my day of departure is to figure things out so that I don't again arrive in Grandas de Salime on a Monday when the Ethnographic Museum is closed.

Try and get there more than an hour before closing too. ( Like most places they close for two hours for lunch) Sadly, I only had an hour - I could easily have spent longer there.

 

[peregrina2000]

I did the ethnographic museum in Grandas de Salime and the one in Chao San Martin on the same day

How did you do that? I suppose one option would be to sleep in Grandas, visit the museum in the morning, then walk to the castro, visit the site, and then sleep in Castro.

 

[David Tallan]

Try and get there more than an hour before closing too. ( Like most places they close for two hours for lunch) Sadly, I only had an hour - I could easily have spent longer there.

Clearly, the thing to do is not quite a rest day in Grandes, but a short walking day from Grandes to Chao Samartín.

 

[David Tallan]

How did you do that? I suppose one option would be to sleep in Grandas, visit the museum in the morning, then walk to the castro, visit the site, and then sleep in Castro.

We were thinking the same thing at the same time.

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

You have to have pretty good Spanish to do the tour. I was the only person visiting the museum the day I went, but the guide only spoke Spanish so didn't get to see the site. The museum was interesting, non-the-less. I did the ethnographic museum in Grandas de Salime and the one in Chao San Martin on the same day. Both were fun to explore.

I was going to add, you could stay at Hotel las Grandas, walk into Grandas de Salime in the morning, and have a coffee while waiting for the ethnographic museum to open, then walk to Chao San Martin and spend the night there. Makes a short walking day, but when will you go to the museums again?

We were thinking the same thing at the same time.