Kiwi-family
{Rachael, the Mama of the family}
- Time of past OR future Camino
- walking every day for the rest of my life
The way marking is faultless and so frequent (almost to the point of excessive in places) that there is no room for doubt.* In fact, if way markings were the only consideration, this would be an excellent first Camino.
However, there are a couple of other factors that make me hesitant to unreservedly recommend this route, especially to a first-timer.
Firstly, this route begins in Portugal (being called the Portiguese-n-all) and that means there are Portiguese drivers. Now before you accuse me of being too harsh or making too broad a generalization, I will admit my observations are based on only one week's walking in the country. However, I will add that everyone we have spoken with reached the same conclusion. A Swiss gentleman we met succinctly stated, "The Portuguese drive fast and don't give a damn!" In other (more polite) words, drivers show complete disregard for pedestrians. They drive fast, even on the narrow lanes that wind through villages. This is in total contrast to Spanish drivers, who slow down as they approach, possibly give you a wave, and definitely stop if you are standing anywhere near a pedestrian crossing.
Additionally, this route has quite a bit of road walking, and in places where there is little or no shoulder. While we did not mention it in earlier blogposts so that no-one would worry, there were sections that felt (or were) dangerous.
Another drawback to this route is the relative lack of scenic interest. Of the seven routes I have now done, this is the least stunning. The others were spectacular, and the Portuguese just cannot compete. There are very few long stretches in nature - mostly you are walking from one village or town that fairly seamlessly merges into the next one. We even felt at times that the nature trails were an ideal place for weirdos (for lack of a better word) to hang out - conveniently close to residential areas, but providing cover. (On the other hand, there are women who have walked this route solo and never felt in danger).
Finally, the cobblestones. From Porto to Xxxxx (check location and insert - Barcelos? Tui?) there are long punishing stretches of uneven blister-causing soul-destroying cobbles. Consider yourself warned!However, there are a couple of other factors that make me hesitant to unreservedly recommend this route, especially to a first-timer.
Firstly, this route begins in Portugal (being called the Portiguese-n-all) and that means there are Portiguese drivers. Now before you accuse me of being too harsh or making too broad a generalization, I will admit my observations are based on only one week's walking in the country. However, I will add that everyone we have spoken with reached the same conclusion. A Swiss gentleman we met succinctly stated, "The Portuguese drive fast and don't give a damn!" In other (more polite) words, drivers show complete disregard for pedestrians. They drive fast, even on the narrow lanes that wind through villages. This is in total contrast to Spanish drivers, who slow down as they approach, possibly give you a wave, and definitely stop if you are standing anywhere near a pedestrian crossing.
Additionally, this route has quite a bit of road walking, and in places where there is little or no shoulder. While we did not mention it in earlier blogposts so that no-one would worry, there were sections that felt (or were) dangerous.
Another drawback to this route is the relative lack of scenic interest. Of the seven routes I have now done, this is the least stunning. The others were spectacular, and the Portuguese just cannot compete. There are very few long stretches in nature - mostly you are walking from one village or town that fairly seamlessly merges into the next one. We even felt at times that the nature trails were an ideal place for weirdos (for lack of a better word) to hang out - conveniently close to residential areas, but providing cover. (On the other hand, there are women who have walked this route solo and never felt in danger).
By now I must sound like a real cheer germ! I don't mean to dissuade you from choosing this path, but to highlight what you might encounter. Actually, if you are someone who wants to use English as the lingua franca, this could be the perfect Camino - almost everyone speaks at least some - and often excellent - English. If you want a Camino that you don't need to carry food on, this would be ideal (that is, the Central route is well-littered with bars; the coastal route not so much). And if you want a Camino where you meet all sorts of interesting people, then chances are high this route would provide - that was certainly our experience! (Just make sure you have well-cushioned shoes or sandals and a high visibility vest)
* faultless way marking comment: the exception that proves the rule here is O Porinno, where the locals have blacked out the arrows - just follow the black and you'll be right. Then when you get to the River versus Bridge option immediately before the town, take the river again - it will take you directly to the Municipal Albergue.